Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Whining Sounds When Steer The Wheel And Shift Into High Gear
Feb 14, 2014
I had the cam gears on my 2009 RX350 replaced and after the replacement I noticed that the engine noise is louder. It's louder after a cold start and idle. And it's louder when driving. Even the transmission sounds like it's struggling - it's taking much longer to shift into higher gear and occasionally it makes a whining sound when it shifts. Also, I'm hearing whining sounds when I steer the wheel (which was diagnosed as potentially caused by a faulty power steering pump, which by the way did not cause any noise prior to the work done). The replacement was done by a reputable Lexus dealer.
The Lexus dealership claims that the engine noise level is within acceptable limits even though it is much louder than before the cam gears were replaced. They deny that the replacement cam gears could be defective or that the replacement itself could have gone wrong. They have acknowledged the noise coming from the transmission and have offered to replace it (still under warranty so no cost to me). Now what is strange to me about all this is that prior to having the cam gears replaced, the engine noise was very quiet. The only occasional noise came from the cam gears on cold starts but lasted a second or two.
Now I don't know for sure that replacing the transmission will fix the noise issue. And it is so strange that the transmission seemed fine prior to the work done. What's happening here given the facts? Could replacing the cam gears somehow damage the transmission? Is there any interaction between cam gears and transmission. Aside from the transmission, what could explain the much higher engine noise (when not shifting so transmission not a factor) after the cam gears were replaced?
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2006 GX470 57000 miles loaded. I purchased this new and I was wondering if anyone on here can give me a bit of input on what you may think is going on.
My truck when merging onto a high speed roadway my truck doesn't seem to want to shift into the next gear. Almost like if it was a manual I would have to shift it. It really whines out before it shifts.
Also My husband is hearing a humming/vibration from the rear when we are doing about 65 steady I've already had my tires removed and checked to see if I may have thrown a weight or a broken belt but everything is good. I have Michelins on the truck and they are about 2 yrs old. No damage on the tires I have them rotated every 5000 miles.
I had the truck in for service and told them about this. The Lexus service rep told me his mechanic told him he found nothing. I asked them to check again and he said the mechanic would take it home to drive it at a speed that was needed. Again I was told nothing was found. Got the truck back from the seat repair don't even think the truck was taken home.
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
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I have been having problems with a loud whining noise when I steer in cold weather (approx 35 degrees F) and only after the car has warmed up. Now, before everyone tells me about the Honda Service bulletin addressing this problem, I will tell you I had the Power Steering reservoir replaced at 65K miles, per the service bulletin. However, the problem came BACK after another 35K on the van. The dealership then replaced the inlet pipe O-ring on the power steering pump which ended up NOT fixing the problem. So I still have a fairly new power steering reservoir, a new O-ring AND the loud whine. Am I doomed to replace this every 35K miles or is there some other problem that is buried deeper than the PS reservoir? (And the loud whine you hear really is coming from the van....but soon I might be joining it.)
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had issue/backed into garage door with rear of car---car will now not go into gear--gear shift will not engage. can manually engage with button, but, will not do normally. abs break system light now on. what do I do?
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Like the title says, I sometimes experience a long shift from 1st to 2nd. When the transmission is cold, it seems to shift fine from 1st to 2nd. It isn't until it is warmed up that I get a looong shift. It winds up,,,,, then it shifts. I have no problems in other gears.
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I have a 2004 RX with 82,000 miles, well maintained. Lately the engine will start but the warning lights won't go off and the gear shift won't move out of park. I have to keep turning the vehicle on and off until the gear shift will go in reverse.
It doesn't happen every day but off and on over the past month.I've had numerous brake light switches replaced which could maybe be the lights, would that affect the transmission too?
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This is an ongoing problem that has lasted for several weeks now -- I’m completely flummoxed and at a loss. It goes something like this:
My truck (2000 Dodge Dakota, 2.5L, 5-speed) has developed -- for lack of a better term -- a high-pitched whining squeal, which only occurs after I put it in gear and actually start moving (if I leave it idling in neutral, when starting it after letting it sit overnight, the sound usually does not appear at all). After about three or four minutes of driving time, the sound will show up, but there’s an odd twist: the sound is most apparent, and really loud, when the truck is at idle, such as when at a stop sign or traffic signal; when I put it in gear and take off, the noise will drop in pitch and, depending on how hard I’m pressing on the accelerator, it sometimes disappears altogether.
When I take off, every time I shift gears the sound returns -- only for as long as I step on the clutch and back off the gas, and when I step on the accelerator again the noise falls in pitch and vanishes. It does this off-and-on thing through all the gears, and after reaching the desired road speed (and I’ve reduced pressure on the gas pedal) the sound returns and is constant. Also, if I shut the truck off and wait just a few minutes, and then fire it back up, the sound will be gone, but will return after a short while, exactly as related above. It’s worth noting that, during all this irritating misadventure, the engine has run exactly as it always has -- there’s been no discernible impact on performance.
Now, some considerations. The noise is louder and more strident when the ambient temperature is lower, such as in the morning. Later in the day, when the temperature rises, the sound becomes erratic and somewhat unpredictable, and is much lower in volume, and it will even stop abruptly and then reappear later.
Many people have suggested that it could be the belt or a pulley, maybe. I replaced both tensioners and even installed a new, shorter belt to bypass the A/C compressor (to eliminate it as the possible culprit), but the noise remains. I was skeptical of all that because -- and please correct me if I’m wrong -- a shot pulley making such a horrible racket should get louder as engine speed increases, not drop in pitch and disappear. In fact, the noise seems to have no relation to engine RPM; if anything, it seems tied somehow to intake manifold pressure (the sound vanishes when the truck is accelerating, which is when intake manifold pressure goes down, or so is my understanding), or throttle position, or something else entirely. The vacuum system? The noise seems mechanical to me, not like escaping air (or, well, vacuum) . . . but what do I know?
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Lately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
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I own an 08 Rx350 at 70k miles now. This is my first car ever; my parents bought it brand new and gave to me as gift after I graduated from college. I try to take good care of it; whatever the dealership tells me to replace, I replace it. I follow the maintenance schedule and owners guide to a T. I never really paid attention when my parents drove this car...but I don't know why my car vibrates when I get maybe above 60 mph and try to apply the brake. I do not brake hard and now I pretty much avoid applying brake and just let it glide. Is this normal? Whenever I visit the dealership they do a complete check up. All the check up results are normal;nothing wrong with tire trims, brake pads, suspension etc.
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So I'm driving home late at night, few cars on the highway, I turn off the radio and I hear a faint, very high pitched whine coming from the engine bay when going 40-50 mph. It sounds like an electric motor spinning at high speed and frankly it's a bit irritating. The sound is there whether the engine is running and charging the battery, the car is using the traction battery or it's coasting and regenerating power. The sound stops for a moment if I gently accelerate and then lift off, but it comes back on coasting.
It's different from the louder, low pitched subway-train sound that comes from regen braking at low speed. Could this be the dreaded CVT whine reviewers complain about? Or is it the normal sound of the MG1 unit? This car is really quiet so weird noises pop up more.
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My buddies Jetta won't shift into high gear. I am going to take a look at it this saturday to find more out.
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My dad's 1996 Chevy Silverado will not shift into hi gear. The truck starts up fine and he can drive it but for some reason it won't shift into hi gear. Him and I are clueless as to why it won't. He has a 1996 Chevy Silverado, 6.5 liter V-8 automatic transmission, and its a diesel. We really want to fix the truck ourselves so we are trying to avoid taking it to a shop.
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Purchased my 2013 Elantra GT a few months ago and have been having a problem that had stumped everyone at the dealership. Thought I'd see who else is having it and what the thoughts are. To start, this is a 6SPD Manual Transmission.
Problem: Say you're at a stop and begin accelerating in 1st gear and then shift into neutral because you have to come to a stop again. When operating normally, the RPMs immediately wind down to idle. Well for me, about 15% of the time or more, the RPMs will take up to 10-15 seconds to wind down to idle. During this time, you cannot really shift into 1st gear because the RPM are too high.
The dealership has been working on this issue since last month. They replaced some parts and it is still doing it. They got diagnostic data and told me the throttle was sticking. No one could figure it out. Engineers got involved from regional, and it got pretty heavy as far as time. After several attempts at figuring out the problem and replacing things (which didn't resolve the issue), the engineers drove another new GT and found it was also doing it. So all of a sudden they said "it's normal" and closed the case.
Chances are, if other new ones are doing it, so is yours. I got second opinions from other auto shops who said it is not at all normal and that there may be a defect in the design. I've owned 4 Manual Transmission cars and I have never seen this before. If you're curious and have the 6spd manual version of this car, the easiest and quickest way to see this happen is accelerate in 1st gear to about 4000RPM and shift into neutral. Eventually, it'll get stuck and take a significantly longer time for the RPMs to return to idle. Usually when it finally happens, it'll keep doing it for several subsequent acceleration cycles.
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My 2009, 6 cylinder, 3.6, AWD Caddy CTS with 175K miles as started to have steering problems. No squealing or funny noises, just very hard to steer, at low speeds and high speeds. Ocassionally it is fine but most of the time very hard, esspecially at low speeds, trying to park and things like that. My question is : how can I tell if its the power steering pump or the steering rack or maybe, and hopefully just a relay or fuse before I bring it to get repaired. If I know its the pump I can just get a peplacement from rock auto and bring it to my local mechanic and save a ton of money. If its the rack I'm stuck taking it to the dealer and losing my house to pay for it.
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I have an 07 Hyundai Accent. Occasionally when I start it, it will bang into gear and will not shift into high gear. It is an automatic transmission. If I turn it off and restart a couple of times the problem will disappear. I occasionally get the check engine light with this problem but it goes out the same day. It has also occasionally been going down the highway and will shift out of OD and increase rpms. I can pull over and restart and the problem goes away.
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I recently bought a 2001 Chevy Cavalier with 85,000 miles in October 2014. Since that time, I've fixed the brakes, done emissions testing, etc. But recently the car started to act funny: the trac off and engine light would appear and then the shift between 1 / 2 gear or 2 / 3 would rev up high. I'd stop, pull over, turn off, turn on, and then continue. I was worried, so I took and the mechanic changed the transmission fluid.
However, the problem is getting worse. I was driving, the trac off and engine light came on, and about 30-secs later the oil and battery light appear and the car shuts off. I took it back in and they ran tests to check it, but what the problem could be. I don't drive my car very frequently, mostly weekends to visit my family who live about an hour 1/2 from me. But so far every time I drive it, the car stops.
Some suggestions I've heard:-- low fuel injection?-- wheel speed sensors
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I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
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My 4.65L V8 Explorer has an issue in low gear - RPMS rev high but car doesn't shift up.. eventually "catches" with a jerk but the OD Light started flashing and the Systems Screen reads Check Transmission. Light goes out and message goes away after turning car off and restarting. Had one Tech look at it - he said second gear is toast and need full transmission rebuild. Another Ford Tech looked and could just be solenoid needing replacement and advised to have a transmission service (not a flush) done....
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I know this noise is the Thermos Pump and it operates when I turn the car on and off. Question - is it failing - also a really annoying noise, but I'll put up with it as long as nothing's breaking.
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Recently purchased a LS-460(CPO). The vehicle has 36,000 miles logged. I've had a few issues in the first few months:
1) Whining noise coming from the right front wheel assembly..front rt bearing worn.
2) Replaced homelink system..would not program.
3) Glove box had to be replaced due to not closing properly(adjustment not possible)
4) Plastic coating on all 4 locking lugnuts was chipping and rusting. I'm not trying to be a troll here..however, just not what I expected from Lexus. I really enjoy driving the vehicle..I'm just not sure I want to own it outside of a warranty.
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