Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Throttle Power Is Very Low - Code P2121
May 11, 2016
I have a 2004 RX330 around 110k miles. My wife was driving home the other day and check engine light, VSC and Trac Off lights all came on and throttle power is very low. Can barely get RPM to 2000 or 3000 rpms. I googled the code (P2121) and it said to replace Accelerator Pedal Sensor (Gas pedal). I removed cleaned the throttle body and installed new pedal and still have lights on and won't get up to 3000 rpms. How do I reset the lights? I have had both battery cables off for an hour and it won't clear the memory. Radio still has presets, but windows and memory seats have lost memory. What I should do next?
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Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
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2007 F350 6.0L 230,000 miles
Yesterday, while driving home from a weekend out of town trip, all of sudden lost throttle control. Just went to idle while at cruise speeds, could pump pedal and no response. Then got pedal control back and seemed to run normally.
This happened several times. Hubby suggested moving the adjustable pedal which I did slightly. Although I was not using the cruise control, we had a sense that maybe it was engaging??? So I hit the off button a couple of times. After these two interventions, drove the last 80 miles home with no further incidents.
Today, we checked codes and had a PO231, Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. I don't think that is our problem with above based on research, but we will look into fixing that too. We are thinking TPS or a position sensor on the accelerator pedal. We could replace those easily ourselves.
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My wife's 05RX has just turned 74k miles on it and recently I've noticed the motor has detonation at light throttle. If I press a little harder on the gas it goes away. Ive tried getting gas from different stations with no change. The car isn't running rough or missing and there aren't any fault codes.
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I have a 99 350 sd 7.3 low power black smoke sets a p1211 under heavy throttle. Check icp on scanner under heavy throttle falls from 1900s to mid 1700s ipr duty cycle runs about 62% wanting to know if I am looking for a hpop problem or injector issue...
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Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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I have a 6.0 in a 2004 E-450 that starts and runs like a top except that it will not idle below 750rpm. If I give it just a tad of throttle it runs well. You can slowly let off the throttle and when it gets below the 700 it just dies like you turn the key off. Ford dealer spent piles of money on it and couldn't figure it out.
Got it in my Powerstroke shop and replaced CMP & CKP & tried another FICM. Is it possible that it would be the accelerator pedal assembly? The volts are what they should be but it dies so fast that the scanner can't see what's happening till it's too late.
It comes up with P2132, P2122, P2127, P2138, P2139 which are throttle related but am wondering if anything else could cause this before I start throwing more stuff on it.
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2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
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Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
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I have a strange issue and it happens very sporadic. Sometime it occurs at startup, sometimes while driving. Not sure whether it is limp mode, but I have no throttle. It starts fine, idles, but no throttle. Like I said, sometimes it happens while driving and I have to pull over and shut it down and restart. Mods are few, it has an airaid air filter and I had the turbo rebuilt and egr delete both completed in May. FICM was rebuilt by ficmrepair.com a couple years ago. It does seem to happen more often when it is raining or with a heavy dew after sitting for many hours. 128k.
I adjusted the pedals all the way out and back in and it stopped for almost 5 weeks, but it has been pretty dry here in SW Ohio. then it got really foggy one day and rained the next and it has started again. Could it be that the EGR pigtail is getting moisture. It does not throw a CEL and my scan gauge II shows no codes. I did run a dose of hotshot's secret thru the fuel back in may, ran a couple tanks of fuel, then changed the filters with OEM. I have had this truck for almost 3 years, but still a newbie when it comes to diesels.
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My 2004 Lexus RX 330 with 116,000 miles has a check engine light on. The code was P2198, the problem: Bank2 Sensor1. I replaced the O2 sensor myself, easy, at $180. I erased the code and the check engine was back on the next day. Not sure what to do next.
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2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 FX4 and I had these two codes thrown over the past week/few days...P0325 and P1000 (pictures below of descriptions...I have an edge programmer and have been running it on the highest setting for a while now but always run premium fuel. I got these codes and reset them and they came right back. I then reset the cpu to the factory programming and they still keep coming back. I still have premium in it and it seems like when you hammer it that it falls flat on its face! It runs good and pretty smooth but seems like it has no power when throttle is pushed hard. It seems like it has a small vibration at about 3,000 RPM but only for a few seconds and then smooths right back out again. The truck has 88,000 miles and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in it about 6,000 miles ago. Not sure what I should do or what is the next step.
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My car is running great, no issues. I just changed the ignition coils, i was having a misfire. It was easier since i was changing the back to replace them all. My CEL and VSC went on and it is code P0430 bank 2. Before i spend a ton on a new catalytic converter i would like to change the o2 sensors. Problem is, I am not sure which ones to change or where to start. Is this even something i am able to do?
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My A/C seems to be not working. Auto mode has fan blowing but only hot air coming out and the A/C light is blinking. Did some searching and performed diag and returned codes 21 & 24. Code 21 due to performing test at night. Have not been able to find reason for code 24.
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It gives me a code "122 Throttle Position Low", I replace TPS, but after clearing codes, the same code comes back & car still won't start.
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Would a corroded throttle body cause a false code P0332 knock sensor.
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Got a 2006 GX throwing a P2445 code and car goes into limp mode. Is this the Air Injection Pump? Where it's located?
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I used Maxidas for scanning my GX470 05 and I have error code C1336 ... How to resolve it ?
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SO all three lights came on and wouldn't go away.
Ran a scanner for code and got p0430.
Took it dealership for estimate or fix.
Go figure : code summary: Causes.
Reported fixes or Causes: for code p0430
- catalytic converter has failed.
- Air fuel ratio sensor
- Bank 2 cat converter
- Bank 2 (A/F) ratio sensor
- Oxygen 02 sensor
- downstream Oxygen 02 sensor
- Exhaust pipe
- Mass Air flow sensor
So I am waiting thinking ok let be one of the above causes or fixes that is cheap.
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