Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Steering Wheel Doesn't Return Back To Straight As Move Through The Turn
Jan 4, 2009
My 2005 RX330 has 140,000 kms...and I am now witnessing frequent periods of hard steering. I even sometimes find that after I turn a corner, the steering wheel doesn't return back to straight as I move through the turn - I have to forcefully return the steering back to straight steering. There is plenty of power steering fluid, and there are no abnormal whining noises from the power steering assembly. And since the ease of power steering does still work...I suspect that a ball joint needs looked at.
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Runs into a problem with steering wheel not wanting to return back to straight after a turn...spray wd40 on u joints on steering shaft ( under hood)....
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It doesn't move back when I turn off the car anymore. I checked settings and it's set to full. I tried the middle one and nothing... Weird...
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I've had my 2008 RX350 for 2.5 yrs now and just love it! However, over the last 8 months or so, I've been having a strange annoying problem. And a few times, the car has left me stranded. What happens is I turn the key and my first indicator is that the steering wheel doesn't adjust and I know the car is not going to start. However, the radio may work, dash lights work, steering wheel is not locked. It seems entirely dead as if the battery is dead. The car may start 15 min later or may take 3 hours then decide to start.
A strange thing is, is the windows don't work following these episodes which normally signify a battery failure, however the battery is not very old, otherwise performs perfectly and the dealership tested it and say it's good. Because this is so intermittent, they couldn't re-enact the problem so I'm stuck with being stranded again....usually 6 weeks later. The dealership has no answers. I was lucky last night because the car started after 15 min. 6 weeks ago, I was stranded 50 miles away from home where I had to leave the car overnight after trying for 3 hours to get is started.
The next morning, it promptly started. I am at a total loss and it makes me nervous to drive. My husband who works for a chevy dealer and knowledgeable with cars is stumped. He asks the question, could there be a computer malfunction after so many starts which would answer the 6 wk consistency for which this happens? Should we just replace the battery even though we have no reason to suspect?
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I have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 with automatic hubs. My automatic hubs completely destroyed themselves and are being replaced with manuals as soon as this new problem is solved. Initially the truck seemed to go in and out of 4 wheel on the hubs and jumped, snapped and ultimately destroyed the retaining clips in the hub itself so that those gears fell out when wheel was removed. I removed both sides and that stopped, but now when I turn the vehicle, this worse at lower speeds, it doesn't want to return to center and will stay in the turn without much effort to turn back to straight.
The pump seems fine on the power steering system. A mechanic friend of mine told me that my universal and upper and lower ball joints where shot on the front axle, but I feel that this might have more to do with the steering rods etc. The originals have been replaced and I am able to grease them, after doing this it seemed really loose for a bit, then by second day of driving it was back to the usual. I just am looking for some verification before replacing tie rods etc and then eventually the hubs, but winter over so there is less concern right now for that.
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Just recently i have noticed my truck acting up. the other day at about 10 to 20 mph i made a 90 degree turn and noticed my steering wheel wouldn't return but i had to bring it back. than this morning the same thing happened. I made a 90 degree left hand turn and it happened again. the truck wanted to keep going left but i kept turning right. it almost feels like my power steering pump is going out. The pump was changed about 4 years 90k miles ago. I'm curious to see what others have to say. What could it be????
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Today, I just picked up my 2014 prius. Basically, when I do a right/left turn on the car, when accelerating out of the turn, the steering wheel does not fully return to the center position (its approximately in the one/eleven o'clock position). Also, if I leave the wheel straight, and drive straight, the car will drive straight and not pull towards the side so I don't think its an alignment issue. I'm not sure if this is normal, or if its happening just because they car is new or just because I'm not accelerating hard enough out of the turn (I always stayed in the eco range with the HSI. )
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I've ignored it long enough and dont remember if it was like this when I bought it from the second owner...guess I had too much fun during the test drive. Any ways would it be an alignment issue up front or what?
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I have a 2009 screw with ~60k miles. It is used for DD and tows our small camper or my flat deck w/jeep.
The other day I noticed an issue when turning right. The wheel gets hard to turn and does not want to return to center. There is also a low speed clunk you can feel in the steering wheel/column itself.
The truck is at the dealer now and they said the rack needs to be replaced and there is something in the column they need to replace too. I have the extended warranty, so this is all but covered 100%. I just have a deductible to pay.
I have not hit anything with the truck, so I am not sure what caused these issues.
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If I understand the manual the "Steering wheel auto away and return function" can only be turned off by the dealer. Is this right?
What do most of you do? Seems nice to have. But also could be a lot of wear and tear on the two motors to do this. Is it worth it.
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I can't drive my 2013 ES300h straight (on a straight & level road) with out turning the steering wheel to the right, then to the left (over & over again) . To be clear, I do not have to turn the wheel much at all but it has to be turned to keep it straight. I had Lexus do a 4 wheel alignment yesterday and it did not work at all. Is this normal ?
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The leather on my steering wheel was peeling off and I brought it up to the dealer and out of their goodwill, they decided to replace it with a completely new one. Props to the dealer. However this is where all the problems start to occur. I drop off the car This past Sunday and pick up a loaner. I get a call the next day saying my car is ready. So I get there and everything seems good.
There's an open road that I like to take home but this is where I noticed something weird. When my steering wheel was level, the car was veering right.. I had to tilt the steering wheel a little left to go straight . I call the dealership right away and they tell me to bring it back. So I do that and pick up another loaner.
Following day , I go back to the dealership and they tell me they fixed the alignment. Now everything is good! I was yet again wrong. When I got home, I noticed my steering wheel was weird.
So taking the car back tomorrow to get this fixed! Still props to the dealer for giving me a brand new steering wheel..
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I bought 2006 Prius which clearly was involved in accident, though it was small collision in slow traffic but on my way home from seller it was clear this was something more serious when on motorway at 70mph steering wheel started vibrating when in straight direction, it disappeared on any little turn left or right. Ok, maybe just ball joint got loose.... but not, today I've lifted front and found little knocking sound in few positions when turning the wheels (L-R). Sound is coming from rack & pinion unit. Anyone removed, disassembled and successfully assembled it? My plan is to check with dealer what is the cost of replacement (quite expensive for gen I, expect it to be same for gen II) alternatively can get one from scrap yard but need to find the calibration procedure first. BTW did read codes as follow, it's clear after reset... so far.
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Got my 2007 XLT Screw here, love this truck, not one problem with it since i got it. but i have started to hear and feel a noise.
I have a click sound and slight click feel in my steering wheel. This happens when I am sitting still with the wheel straight, and i just slightly rock the steering wheel back and forth. If i turn the wheel a full turn left or right then rock the steering wheel back and forth I don't get the sound or feeling. Also if I am cruising down the road and rock the wheel back and forth slightly I don't get it.
This is something between the steering wheel and the firewall. I checked all steering shafts and all suspension from the firewall down to the wheels. So that at least make me feel better that I am not dealing with one of those steering shafts or a suspension repair.
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I have a 00 Suburban 1500 4wd and when I move the steering wheel the tires do not turn. I looked and a nut is missing from one of the pieces! Not sure what it is called!
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I have a '07 RX350. My steering wheel recently started having a squeaking noise when you turn it right, or left. This has nothing to do with the motor to extend or retract. You can hear the noise when you turn it ever so slightly back and forth (whether car is running, or not). I have seen other threads that talk about a grommet needing greese between the steering wheel and column, but not enough detail for me to determine what they mean. Also, if that's the case, I am not sure how you get to tha area?
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I've got a 2007 rx 350. The steering wheel is locked and the key wont turn. I've tried everything, forcing the steering wheel left and right, forcing the gear shifter to neutral and moving the car. I even tried to spray some wd-40 on the key and then trying it.
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On Friday I opened the liftgate using the button by the driver side and it was normal. I pressed the same button to close it and I heard a crunch type sound and went back to check if the lock closed on something but it was all clear. I tried opening and closing again using the driver side button and the key fob and it makes the beep beep sound and it sounds like something mechanical is going on back there but the door doesn't move. The button in the glove box has not been touched and I checked the fuse compartment in the hood of the car and it appears to be intact.
Now the door won't open or close unless I manually open it and close it. After the beep beep the door sounds like its attempting to open but it just stays closed. And when I manually open the door and try to push the button on the door itself, or by the key fob or by the driver side button, it also just makes the beep beep sound and sounds like its mechanically struggling to do something and just stays open.
On Saturday I went up to the snow. It was freezing cold and higher altitude and as I was unpacking the back I tried to close the liftgate manually and it wouldnt even close. It closed a few inches and then it seems like the pressurized hinges got stuck. I eventually got it to shut but now I'm not sure if the problem is those hinges or is it something electronic or is the lock of that door just messed up somehow.
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I started to notice a slight whine when I turn the wheel. My fluid is at low but it's pretty dark and I'm not sure if it was ever changed or when. I have 100k miles. What fluid should I use?
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'13 model. I checked the vehicle customization to have the setting on but I noticed that the driver seat has stop moving assisting easy exit feature. The steering wheel is tilting however. Should I check with the dealer?
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I noticed this problem day as I was out and about, as I come out of a medium to hard turn (at least one wheel rotation) my wheel doesn't want to return fully to the center position. The wheel starts to slow down about half a turn in either position and I need to get it around the quarter turn position. I don't have to force it much, it feels more turning the wheel while in park.
I has winter tires put on in December and the mechanic told me they couldn't do an alignment because one of my rear coils was broken (planning on getting that fixed myself once I get a weekend where it's not at or below 0 outside) and my front ball-joints (I think that's what they said) was loose and that the front joint didn't need to be looked at immediately, but by spring should be replaced.
That front joint is what's giving me problems? Or is it something else?
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