Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Static / Draft Heard At Higher Speeds From 2007 RX350
May 9, 2015
I'm new to the Lexus family. I recently bought a 2007 rx 350. It's in wonderful condition. I noticed that when I go above 60ish, I hear what sounds like a draft or a static-like sound. I've turned the radio off, air off, turned on re-circulated air, made sure all the windows are up, but no matter what I still hear it. I had a small Honda Civic before so I don't know if it's getting used to the aerodynamics of an suv? It almost sounds like there's a "crack" that's allowing air to come through the but there isn't. I don't notice it at all when I'm driving around town, only really on the interstate. It's most noticeable when in the drivers seat. I wasn't sure if it's just the nature of the ventilation system of this vehicle or should I have it checked? Am I just over analyzing?
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I have a 2010 LS460 AWD with 42k miles and notice when I am making a medium to wide angle turn at parking lot speeds the front wheels make an intermittent metallic clicking/ticking noise that can be clearly heard when the windows are down and stereo is off. The noise can be heard when turning in either direction, driving forward or in reverse, and both accelerating and slowing down. Doesn't seem to happen when I'm turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary. Dealer suspects noise is due to dry contact areas between pads, calipers, and anti rattle springs and wants to perform a brake service for $330 before they're willing to investigate further (car still under warranty till end of the year). If noise is brake-related shouldn't it only occur when I'm applying the brakes? What should I do?
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My parents have a 2007 RX350 and they had the airbag light come on once in a while. I have the car right now so I could figure out the issue for them and get it fixed.
The light wouldn't come on for the first couple days and it off today for a while until I move the seat fully backward and then forward. After I restarted the vehicle the light came on.
I got to work and tried tightening all connectors under the seat and the light did go off and stay off but I didn't drive it after that.
When the light is on it blinks in the 1-second on / 1-second off pattern. When my dad's friend-mechanic checked it out, he said that the description of the code he could read was something like "open [squib] circuit connector", unfortunately, he can't remember.
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I have a 2007 RX350, now at 110K miles, bought at 80K miles. I recently notice a sudden drop in mpg about 5K miles back (it might happen before that but I did not notice). Previously, the car gets around 25MPG on average, now it can only get 21 - 21.5 mpg, my range of a full tank drops around 60 miles. My route of driving everyday is pretty much the same. I have tried to change gas branch, using fuel system cleaner (Chevron Techron), check tire pressure but no luck.
What might be happening with the car that makes this significant drop in mpg?
I changed power steering rack and pinion at a dealer also about 5k miles back and at that point I had a dispute with a service consultant there. He made me drive back and forth a couple times without telling me that the part hadn't arrived yet (the car was on extended warranty). I then emailed directly to his boss. After that he treated me really well: gave me a most recent model loaner car for a week and did not charge for gas, and waived the deductible. Now I notice the MPG drop so I kind of link with this event and put him in doubt . Well, I'm not sure if he could do anything to the car since he's not the technician but still ... Can a guy put something to a car to reduce its fuel efficiency?
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I have a 2007 RX 350 my daytime running lights do not come on. The bulbs are good.
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I don't know how to turn on rear wiper on my lexus rx350 2007.
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Our 2007 RX350 with 91,000 miles started an annoying rattle at startup that lasts a couple seconds then goes away. The car drives fine and makes no unusual noise after the initial start. Its definitely not normal as it hasn't done it the last 91K miles we have driven the car.
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I just purchased an 07 RX 350 with a salvage title. I'm going to fix it up and drive it but I'm trying to figure out why it won't start. It was hit in the front driver side corner, bent the radiator support and crushed the bumper and head light, but that is about the extent of the damage. I tried charging the battery and I get power inside and the other headlight seems very bright, but when I try to turn it over, I can hear what I think is the fuel pump engage but the engine doesn't turn over and there is no noise from the starter. Is there a sensor or something that would be stopping it?
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My husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
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Driving down the road today listening to radio in my 2007 LS460. The sound suddenly stopped and just a repeating loud clicking sound is heard. No radio, CD, or Handsfree sound, just annoying clicking even when audio is off. Turned off car and restarted. Same clicking. Disconnecting amp in trunk only way to stop clicking noise.
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2014, IS350 F-Sport owner. Noticed the steering become resistive at higher speeds?
When I drive at freeway speeds (70-80mph) for, say, >10 minutes, I get a very large increase in the resistance in the steering. This is combined with a complete lack of caster response, resulting in very difficult control.
This occurs in all modes, and once it happens I have to come to a complete stop before the steering once again feels normal and the caster response returns.
I've had it in the service dept. since day 4 of owning the car, but no "error code = nothing wrong". They're now trying to convince me that it's supposed to work this way because of VGRS, but I'm calling B.S. on that. The car's handling and performance are decreased at higher speeds; definitely NOT what an F-Sport car is designed to do...
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I have a 2007 Prius (now has 220K + miles) I bought used about 2 years ago with 150K miles. I finally got used to the car sounds so this is something new, or rather it's becoming louder and enough for me to question it. The car is still quiet at low speeds but this sounds like something related to how fast the car is rolling, not the engine acceleration. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the wheels. It's a low roar like sound, not high pitched and it sounds like it's coming from under the middle to front of the car as if related to perhaps the drive train. If I am up to 40-50 mph and just rolling (foot off the gas) down a long hill, the sound is there. It gets louder the faster I go. Could it be a transmission sound? I've always had manuals so this is my first automatic transmission car.
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As the title states, I've having a problem with my civic. It makes this clicking/grinding noise during 4 separate occasions:
1) turning to the right
2) going in reverse
3) applying the brakes <30 MPH
4) engine braking- I hear a grinding at higher speeds when I let off the accelerator.
2004 Honda Civic EX, 5 sp MT, 1.7 L, ~172k miles. I'm not a mechanic, but do almost all my maintenance at our hobby shop on base.
I first noticed this noise only when applying brakes approaching a stop sign. I checked my pads and rotors and they looked good. The noise is coming from the front drivers side of the car. Pulled the pads off and they appeared to be wearing differently (only slightly). Regardless, I replaced the pads and rotors. The problem persisted. I checked the wheels for play to see if it was a wheel bearing, but there is no play.
Then, I noticed the sound when going in reverse and turning to the right. All information I found pointed to a faulty CV axle. From the outside, the boots were normal. No tears, no grease. It didn't make any specific noise when turned, but oh well. I replaced both of them today. Replaced the transmission fluid with genuine Honda. Pulled out of the parking lot of the hobby shop and the noise persisted.
Ball joints appear to be fine, wheel bearings appear to be fine. The guys at the shop suggested maybe it was the caliper not engaging correctly; perhaps air in the lines. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the brake lines and see if that works. Otherwise, when else would cause this noise? Video attached....
There are 3 parts to the video. 1 is the last few seconds of me slowing down from an on ramp. I click the turn signal apply the brakes and you hear the noise. The next section is again slowing down at a stop sign. The last section is backing up out of a parking spot.
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I've had my 07 HD F150 into the dealer a few times for this issue and they have not been able to repair it. When I use the brakes especially at higher speeds you can feel them turning like a warped rotor, sometimes it will make the steering wheel shake. It does it with both my summer tires (22") and my winter tires (17"). Even at slow speeds you can feel it.
The dealer keeps checking and says that the fronts are fine, last time they machined the rear rotors and said it was fixed. To me the fronts look pretty grooved but they keep saying they are fine. Which didn't make sense to me. The truck stops well and has good feel and power but I get this warped rotor feeling. Is the dealer missing something?
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I noticed the RPM's are higher than they used to be when accelerating slowly.
My car is an awd hybrid 600h with a CVT (110.000 miles) .. Do i have to check the transmission fluid? How?
Is my clutch or whatever it's called dying?
My car is still under warranty, but I'm not sure if wearable parts are included.
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Checked the MPG Since Last Fillup numbers against computing the actual miles driven and fuel used manually? I find the (2011 460) numbers to be consistently 2 mpg or more higher than actuality. To be as accurate as I could I used the same pump at each filling, letting it stop automatically when full. I now wonder at the accuracy of the "total mpg"--which shows 14.1 for 15,000 miles. I drove 5000 of those, and never got more than 12.5 mpg (by the Lexus meter.)
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Engine idling on D and idling on N/P. Mine sometimes runs at 600, sometimes at 650. When I steer, rpm should go higher but it doesn't go.
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My 2007 RX350 has 14500 mlles. After almost coming to a stop (5mph) and at times that I need to accelerate quickly while traveling at approx 30mph the transmission wants to hunt for the proper gear. ILO downshifting to the next lowest gear it does nothing but hunts for a second (seems like a minute with traffic approaching) then grabs a gear. Engine RPM revs naturally but too high. Dealer states this is normal for the hunting action. The vehicle is perfect other than this one small problem.
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My dad said his 2009 RX350, he noticed that the brake light on the dash randomly comes on and off sometimes now.
I've read that a lot of the earlier models had an issue with the brake light switch that was causing the VSC, brake, and ABS lights to come on, but in his case it is only the brake light alone that is lighting up.
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My dad drove the RX350 to get some groceries last night and was shocked to see all the windows and moon roof was open after he came out of the store...
My guess is something was pressed against the unlock key on the remote when he was exiting the car and walk toward the supermarket entrance and triggered the all window open from remote...
Fortunately, nothing was stolen but he was shocked...I think I will have the dealer program the RX and disable this feature...
However, I was also shocked that we can only open all the windows but not close them w/ the remote...seems like a bad design...if you can open windows from the remote...you would think you can close all the windows too right??
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I can't get an accurate reading on my dipstick of my '08 RX 350. I just tried after it sat all night and the oil is over the full marks. I just had the oil changed at Lexus and they used my 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and I told them not top it off to 6.5 quarts because I wanted to.
The tech said he did not add more than what I gave him. I just called Lexus and they said, yes it is difficult to get an accurate reading for some reason. He said check when the oil is warm and has sat for 5 minutes. Any others have trouble reading the oil dipstick accurately?
'08 RX 350 Flint mica/ blk 84,000 miles
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