2004 95K. Over the past month or so there is a short squawk or squeal when starting the motor. This has only been happening when the temperature outside is 20 degrees or below. The belts are new, including the timing belt. What would you check first?
View 7 RepliesOn cold starts the engine makes a continual squeal. Within minutes if I drive it or simply rev the engine a few times the sound is gone and the engine again sounds glorious. If I spray the belt with water the sound immediately ends. I have replaced the water pump, belt tensioner roller, idler rollers and of course the belt. All to no avail. 2005 Porsche 911...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 f150 with the 5.4 in it and today I was driving it and my tempreture gauge randomly shot to cold and check engine light came on. Also can't even find the dam radiator cap due to too much plastic!!!
View 2 RepliesMy 04 GX has about 113k on it and the A/C clutch is shot, making a ton of grinding noise when its engaged (when the A/C is on).
Need to repair or replace there unit because of this? I see online the ability to buy just the clutch pack for the A/C compressor. However Lexus and other sites want to sell me the whole A/C compressor.
Question being, can I get away with buying the clutch pack and installing it onto my OEM a/c compressor? Or do I buy a new compressor?
I get a small "squeal" from the engine usually only when it's cold out, and have narrowed it down to the water pump pulley (2nd pulley down from the top). I put a drop or two of WD-40 on the "rod" that runs through the pulley and it stops. I know not to put anything on the belt to avoid contamination but it seems to me that it's the metal bolt that keeps the pulley in place. I stopped by an O'Reilly and had the tech have a look because I was going to try a more viscous grease. He thinks that it's either the pump is starting to fail or that the pulley could have moved out of place. He said I should remove the belt and tug on the pulley.
If it moves then it's loose and needs to be lubed and tightened. If it doesn't then it's a water pump replacement. What do you all think? I don't want to drop a ton of money as it truly only squeals when it's cold, and unfortunately I'm thinking Chicago's gonna have a cold one this year even though after the engine heats up it's goes away. If you have a guess to the problem, what do you think replacement will run me. I'm only at 30,000 miles, and has been garaged until recently so I don't think it's a belt change or pump failure yet.
Well, started to get belt squeak during cold starts. The idler pulley was changed many miles ago for same issue, but it seems to be starting up again. There are NO tutorials for serpentine belt replacement on this gen of RX.
View 14 RepliesOwner of a 2014 350 fsport here.... 15,000 miles ... I noticed on cold starts a slightly rough idle since its gotten colder here recently. After starting the car it'll start fine and everything but then as its warming up the needle sometimes jumps 75-100 rpm. its like someone tapped their foot on the accelerator and let off. no lights or anything and the car runs fine.
Heres the catch... i have a joe z catback and joe z intake with fsport filter, could this possibly be why? because of the airflow ? i also have been using Lucas fuel injector cleaner and lubricant.
Also when i put the car in park after driving, i notice the needle isn't steady, it does move a little maybe 20-50rpm, not sure if this is normal or not because i never really paid attention until now.
My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
View 8 RepliesWhat a Serpentine Belt is? (how much is it for that part alone and to install at the dealership?)
Dealership told me why during the cold mornings after I start the car up, it is creaking and squeaking........
They told me it needs to be replaced?......
Slight squeal while steering the vehicle to the limit of it's turning radius? I've just begun to notice this recently on my 07 GX... mainly when I'm pulling into a parking spot at slow speeds. Is this normal or should I have it checked out at Lexus dealer?
View 3 RepliesThe truck has been putting off a high squeal every time I crank the engine and when the A/C compressor is engaging.
My first idea was the accessory belt slipping on the compressor when its clutch kicked in. So I replaced the belt. The sound has dissipated a bit but is still there on initial start up and periodically while the A/C is on in the truck. If I turn the A/C button in the cab off the sound quits altogether.
My next idea is the A/C clutch. I prefer to work on my cars myself so if you can just replace the clutch without doing the whole compressor? The compressor works amazing and the truck gets ice cold in the TX heat so if I can keep it while just doing the clutch that would be amazing.
I recently bought a 2004 V10 TDI. When it is quite cold outside, below -15C my Treg will not start, it starts sometimes but will stall immediately. I cannot get it started unless I wait a few days until it is warmer out. When I start it, I wait for the glow plug light to go out but it only takes less than a second, is that normal? I am thinking its the diesel gelling and I need to add an additive to it possibly, or do I need to replace my glow plugs. If I am persistent, I can sometimes get it going after 10 or 12 attempts but I feel I am going to overheat the starter so I am scared to do that often, once started, it runs fine but has tons of CEL codes which are all glow plug errors, I will clear them off, and they will not return.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2016 F250 extended cab with 8 foot bed with snow plow and camper package currently less than 2500 miles on it. Every once in a while when I make a turn (typically a left hand turn) I will here a brief noise that sounds like a rubbing or "squawk" noise. The noise doesn't seem to be related to the turn so much as to the roll of the truck when it unloads / loads the suspension. I'm guessing it might be related to sway bar bushings or something similar, but I just don't know.
I have tried to find a stretch of road near the dealer where I can make the noise happen so I can take a tech for a ride so I can let them hear exactly what I hear, but as hard as I try I cannot reproduce the noise consistently.
I have visually checked underneath and I do not see anything wrong and I suspect it's not serious, but I'd like to know the cause and obviously correct the problem.
So in the middle of a road trip 9 days ago my check engine light came on. I was 2 hours into an 8 hour round trip day trip. I was close to a Toyota dealer so I went there for a diagnosis. They said my MAF bank 1 sensor 1 needed replacing but they didn't have the part so couldn't do the fix but I'd be okay to complete my trip. They collected their $100 and sent me on my way with no warning lights on.
30 minutes later the check engine returns and I'm unable to accelerate. I stop the car for a bit and then am able to continue my trip. I have one other incident where when I was traveling at a low speed, I lost all power. I was able to drive home 4 hours with the check engine light on but no further issues with the exception that I got less than 20 miles a gallon for the trip.
Took my car to a local Toyota dealer. They independently diagnosed that the same sensor needed replacing. They also told me that my spark plugs were shot. According to the service rep, they looked like they were from a car with over 100,000 miles.
Is this possible given the description above from the first time my check engine light came on?
This is a problem that started a couple months ago, and I've taken it to two separate mechanics. Neither knows what the problem is. Basically, most times I try to start the car (~75% of the time), it cranks, and keeps cranking, but does not start. I have to pull the key back, and turn it again. Then it starts no problem.
Not fuel related, as pushing the gas while it's cranking and not starting does nothing. It's not regular either; sometimes it starts first try on a cold start, sometimes not. Sometimes it starts first try after driving for a while, sometimes not. It's a 2004 with 130k miles.
Interestingly, I am pretty sure this started when I got a new key. The physical key shell snapped and separated from the blade. I ordered a new one, and put the old transponder into the new key shell. I haven't had any sort of anti-theft problems afterwards (unless this is one).
I'm experiencing since outside temps are down here in Canada heavy brake squeal in the front. It is barely audible at -2/-3 Celsius, but lower (-10 and lower), it's really aggressive.
One week ago when very cold outside, I went to the dealer, I insisted for a test drive because of the cold condition this day. The tech notice the problem, and we scheduled an appointment for the next week to look at brake pads.
it's -1 outside, so brakes do not squeals... The service advisor told me, the tech (the one that tested it last week) is absent today. so if we look at this and found nothing, you will pay for the work...
So I need to wait a colder temperature to come back to the dealer...
The question is : what do you think about this problem ? are brake pads defective ? It's happen a low speed, regular braking (stop or light).
Twice this week our 2009 SantaFe (3.3l) had a squeal from the engine upon cold startup. The first time it was very cold (-20C or so) and this was louder and longer than the second time (-10C or so). The squeal lasted only a few seconds and trailed off to nothing. Each time the heater controls were set on defrost (fyi). In order of likely suspects, I suspect one of the following:
-compressor engaging and causing sudden increase in resistance on the belt or compressor engagement clutch noisy
-idler pulley for some reason causing belt to slip at first, but don't suspect idler bearing as noise disappears right away
-belt slippage due to resistance somewhere else--e.g. water pump or alternator.
This may not happen when I take the vehicle in for its next scheduled maintenance as by then the weather will likely be warmer. This has 76000 km on the clock.
We bought a 2006 GX back in the fall. For several months now, when first starting the car, it makes a loud, rapid clicking noise for 10-25 seconds. It seems to originate from the front left side of the car. I don't believe it's the uphill or downhill assist control, as the clicking occurs whether the car is in park, reverse, or drive. It only seems to happen when the car hasn't been driven for several hours. Is this normal?
View 14 Replies2002 Passat wagon. I recently had my independent VW shop install new front and rear brake pads and rotors that I provided. The pads are PBR Axis Deluxe ceramic pads. Soon after, the front brakes started a high pitch squeal - mostly when cold or wet.
I took it back to the mechanic and he told me there is nothing he can do about it - I must have defective pads and that maybe they are covered under warranty, as they certainly need to be replaced, ...
This shocked me, especially the lack of customer service, but because I provided the pads I don't think I have much leverage with them other than not to do business with them again.
Is there any way to quiet a squeaking brake pad? Might the mechanic not done something he should have done to prevent squeaks?
I have an 04 excursion with a stiction problem. I can't afford New injectors so I'm going to try this. My question is it says use 2quarts with a fresh oilchange. Do I use 2less quarts of oil than usual or do I add the 2quarts to a normal amount of oil?
View 5 RepliesWhen I open my tailgate with the power opener, it rises almost to the top and then starts beeping and closes.
View 7 Replies