I spent all day replacing my knock sensors and after getting everything back together now it wants to overheat. The thermostat is not that old before today there were no coolant problems.
View 1 RepliesI replaced my knock sensors on 2004 5.4L and now it will not idle without me keeping foot on gas. Idles down to +- 450-500 rpms. If I hold down gas pedla seems to run smooth. What to check to fix this problem?
View 10 RepliesThe dealer tells me my batteries in my low tire sensors are bad. The low tire light on the dash won't go out. So I need to replace the TPMS sensors in my '06 type 5 Prius. I know I can pick them online much cheaper than at the dealer. My question is, is there some reprogramming that will need to be done. I'm assuming it will be some convoluted sequence with buttons on the dash similar to turning off the backup alarm, etc.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 5.4L 2WD auto. I had the cam phasers and timing cover done at the end of 2014 and the truck was great. Back in december, I parked the truck and when I started it the next morning, there was a horrible miss. I left it parked a month or two, then tried starting it up last week. Nothing.
So I had it towed to the shop. They found the starter was bad, and the only code it was throwing was P0341... Cam sensor bank 2. I had it towed back to my house, replaced the starter and the grounds and fired it up. It had the worst miss on the planet and died shortly after being started. I replaced both cam sensors, and now it starts right up and runs... but still has a bad miss.
I used my scanner and its still throwing A P0341 code almost instantly. It sounds like a bad miss that slightly gets better when you give it gas... but its not throwing any misfire codes or anything.
My son has a Mustang GT 5.0 that is overheating. I replaced the radiator with a heavy duty 3 core radiator. It had underdrive pulleys so I replaced them with stock pulleys. I put dual electric fans on it. I flushed the block and put a new thermostat and replaced all the hoses (made sure the bottom radiator hose had wire in it so it wouldn't collapse). I put a new water pump and drive belt but it still overheats when sitting in traffic and overheats when driving with the A/C on.
View 14 RepliesI've replaced the rear sensor and the two front ones on my 2002 Ltd, but the lights still on! It's driving me crazy...what now?
View 7 RepliesI have an 07 350 without the navi system. Is it possible to add the sensors that detect how close you are getting to a car in front (or behind) you?
View 10 RepliesI bought two new factory fresh speed sensors to replace the ones. So, after work tonight I get the car up on jack stands and replace both sensors in about 45 minutes. Get it off the jack stands, torque down the rims and reset the dash lights. Nice clean dash display with no warning lights.
I drive it down the street, nice speedometer display and then, after about 100 yards, the warning lights come on and the speedometer flickers from 22mph to 2 then 10 then 1 then zero. I drive it back home, check the sensors and the connections, reset the lights again, drive it down the street and, same story.
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE V6 with codes p1135 and p1155. Both sensors that are supposedly faulty have been replaced.
The new sensors are denso 234-9043 and 234-9047. I am confident that the second one was the right one replaced as both the new and the old had a little green marker(the location is near the firewall.) not 100% sure about the other one.
The sensors were brand new so I don't know what the problem is.
About four days ago my TPMS warning light started blinking. Same tires and sensors have been on there for quite some time. The service book says to take it to the dealer, but I instead stopped by Discount Tire (where I purchased the tires) to see if they could look and figure out which sensor was acting up.
When he ran his sensor, none of my four sensors showed up as broadcasting at all! Now I know that all four of my sensors did not just randomly go out at the same time.
I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
View 5 RepliesFirst: 2007 GX470 with 63k miles
On some 'cold' starts (and I use that term very loosely, because it never really drops below 40 degrees here), when the engine has sat overnight, and when I shift into reverse (never Drive, just Reverse) and stand on the brake I get a knock. I don't hear it in Park. Not valve clatter like on my german cars while the oil gets routed to the lifters, but instead a loud, startling deep-down knock that sounds like BAMBAMBAMBAMBAM. Then it goes away. Put it in neutral and the revs rise and it's gone. Put it in Drive and nothing there. Just lasts for maybe 5-10 seconds, but is it loud. BAMBAMBAMBAM! Like someone hitting a 2x4 on the block or tranny housing.
Once I'm past that 5-10 seconds it won't do it again all day. Just after a "cold soak". And perhaps 5-10% of the time.
There is a lot of examples with this motor of what some call "piston slap". Don't know if I have it - and I suppose it might get worse (to the point where I hear it) when the engine is cold and under load (in gear), but I don't get it in Drive. Just Reverse.
Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
I just replaced all 8 injectors in my 01 F550 with remans from FFD. I have noticed a constant knock at idle but truck runs great. Blowby has no pressure behind it, truck does not smoke. Does this sound like a problem unrelated to an injector?
It did not make this noise before replacing the injectors
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Had rotors and pads replaced 40,000 miles ago at brakes plus. I went in last week to have them checked and the front pads were almost like new but the rear pads were down to 2mm and now they have to be replaced.
View 5 RepliesSo for the past couple months every time I get on this incline on a freeway transition my temperate gauge spikes to red and the notification center tells me the car is overheating and to pull over a couple seconds later it goes back to normal. This has happened about 7 times now over the past couple months. 07 LS460 just hit 80K miles.
View 14 RepliesSo I bought an unused/uninstalled HID kit (Xenondepot) from another member on the board recently and installed it in my GX470. I have had aftermarket HID kits (Toyota OEM ballasts and D2S Philips bulbs w/adapters) in other cars so I know how to install them and what I need to be careful of (don't touch bulbs, good connections, etc).
Well, after about three hours of burn time over a few days with about 6 start up strikes, my drivers side is failing. The bulb did not strike one time so I turned the lights off, waited 10 seconds and turned it back on to restrike the bulbs and the both came on. When I started the car later that evening, the drivers side did not work again. I tried the same restrike process and no dice. The drivers side never came back after that.
I know XenonDepot has no liability to me since I did not buy the kit directly from them but I am not sure where I should buy a single replacement bulb from since it seems like the new bulb was defective (the kit was brand new and uninstalled).
Original battery died after 5 years service. I replaced battery but discover that certain electronics don't function correctly. Windows and door locks are messed up. Driver control won't operate front passenger window; but rears are OK. Driver door lost "one touch up/down" function. Door locks are sketchy. Question: is there some re-booting or re-programing needed that I can do? Dealer only item?
View 9 RepliesLast week Wed my vehicle was not starting. Some lights would start to come on and then die out. I read the forums here and replaced the traditional battery. Perfect, started right up and no issues. Today, went to bring the kids to school and it did not start up. No messages, a few lights like before and it went dark. Is this an engine issue. I have not tried to jump the new battery yet as it is pulled forward in my garage. (Today being Tuesday and not even a week into my new battery). I looked around, nothing was left on so what is happening. It has just short of 80,000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesI believe my GX470, 03 model, use to unlock the drivers door automatically when I removed the key from the ignition. Now that the battery has been replaced the doors no longer unlock when removing the key. Is there a way to reprogram this?
View 3 RepliesMy engine starts to overheat (the thermostat creeps up towards the red) when I run the a/c. This started this summer. If I turn the a/c off, it settles back to normal. Mechanics said a/c pressure sensor was defective and caused a/c clutch to stay on all the time. so they replaced the a/c receiver dryer (whatever that is). didn't fix it. they looked again and said a/c fans were cutting out and causing overheating. they replaced them. that didn't fix it. now they're proposing exploratory open heart surgery: opening up the engine. if it only happens when the a/c runs, seems extreme.
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