I have a 04 RX330 AWD and I noticed yesterday when I opened the rear door, it didn't stay open when it reached the top. As soon as the rear door reach the top position, it came back down and closed the door. First, I thought I pressed the button to close but when I tried a few more times, it was keep happening. What I need to do?
View 9 RepliesWe own a 2004 rx330 and a odd thing occurs on warm days. That power liftgate will not open or close with the power buttons. It will open about 2 inches and close. When completely open, the power button will not close it. Works fine on mild weather days.
View 4 RepliesTried to open the rear hatch with the key. No lights flashing. No beep.... Dead.
Tried to open it with the switch under the steering wheel. No lights flashing. No beep.... Dead.
I have an appointment at Lexus but this sounds like warranty stuff to me -- sudden death of rear hatch? Lexus informed me there is no manual way to open the trunk. Can I somehow manually open the trunk?
As the title states, I need to know where that damn switch/sensor that tells the car that the rear hatch is open. Since I got the car, the hatch has been wonky at best when trying to close that hatch via the button. I figured it was going to need a new switch, however I just noticed something today.
I opened the hatch and the rear dome light came on. Pressed the button and it closed no problem. I opened it again a few minutes later and the light never came on. Tried to close it with the button again and it didn't work. And then it all made sense. The sensor that tells the car that the hatch is open is either gummed up or just needs replacing. So where exactly is this thing?
I have read that cleaning or replacing the switch that adjusts the outside rear view mirror's will get rid of the erratic operation of these. Mine sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. How do I get the switch out of that panel? It doesn't look like the panel will pop out from the front.
View 2 RepliesAll work yesterday. This morning, windows can't be rolled down from all controls. Power lock works only from passenger side.
View 1 RepliesSo, I'm thinking of converting my RX330 power steering to be all electric, based on the RX 400h power steering system. I know the 400h operates the power steering on a 30V - 50V circuit but I need the wiring diagram of the 400h power steering circuit to know what additional components I'll need to do the conversion.
Question: Why am I doing this?
Answer: Save on fuel economy and power steering maintenance.
I have a 2006 RX 330 with 116,000 miles. I noticed that i had a leak and the power steering oil level was low. I went under the car and looks like the power steering hose is leaking. The dealer wants $352 for hose and $325 for labor. I called auto parts stores and they say its a dealer item only. Someone told me I could have a hose company rebuild it for a lot less.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 ES350 and my trunk decided to stay shut today, right when I arrived at work with stuff in the trunk.... The keyfob doesn't work, the button on the trunk doesn't work and the button inside the car doesn't work.
There is no clicking sound, it doesn't seem to be moving the switch. I can open the trunk using a long stick and pulling the emergency lever. I have checked the valet and that is not the problem.
I have disconnected the battery multiple times. Apart from losing all my settings this did not work for trunk issue. I pulled the fusebox and don't see a "trunk release" fuse. I see a fuel OPN but no trunk..... My fuel door works fine. I am going to check every fuse after I get off work.
When using the remote to open rear liftgate, the liftgate opens at a slower speed than using the interior switch.
View 1 Replies2013 SF Sport 2.0T ... This just started a couple of days ago. Worked fine until then. Neither the proximity key near the car and pressing the liftgate release, nor hitting the fob's "trunk open" button, NOR hitting the "unlock" button on the inside door panel will unlock the liftgate! If I hit the fob or press the outside release, the parking lights flash twice, but that's IT! No "unlock" and I can't open the lift gate. (I can't see them if I hit the inside the cabin button). All other locks work as they are supposed to.
View 3 RepliesMy 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
My liftgate glass will not open but the liftgate will. Dashboard indicates that the glass is open. Can not open with key fob either. What this problem may be.
View 4 RepliesSo my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
I have a 2005 RX 330 with about 100k on it. The A/C does not keep the cabin cool. If you turn the fan up it will keep it cooler. I took it back to the dealer and they say there is nothing wrong with it. They did recharge it but it did nothing. You have to keep the fan turned up to just stay comfortable. I have had service loaners and I have to keep turning the temp up or it gets too cold.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 RX330 AWD. I took it to get inspected and was told I had a bad O2 Sensor.
Are they easy to replace? What should the average cost be? I was also looking for the part number. I was told that "Bank 2 Sensor 1" failed. I was looking for the part but I am not sure I found the correct part.
I was also told that the front inner and outer Tie Rod needs replaced along with both rear wheel bearings. I found the parts for the tie rod but not sure about the rear wheel bearings. Wondering if i need to get just the wheel bearing or if i need the wheel bearing and hub assembly also.
It seems like my wife's 2006 RX330 does not get as cold as it used to. At times, it will even blow warm and humid air, even though it is set to max cold, although this is intermittent, which to me, creates a harder problem to diagnose.
For example, if I put the AC on Auto, at 70 degrees, it never gets cold enough for the fan to drop below the Medium fan setting. To me 70, is not that cold, and it should be able to reach this temperature, and then slow the fan down to just maintain the temperature. I can even put the system on Max AC, and it the fan blows at the High setting, but it never gets really cold.
I have a problem with my keyless entry and liftgate. It began as an intermittent problem and now it is constant. I am unable to use my keyless entry. I have checked the batteries, reprogrammed the remotes and nothing works. I am unable to open my liftgate at all unless I go in through the access hole in the liftgate from the inside and manually flip the latch. WHAT A PAIN!I did some online research and found that this is an issue with the 2006 trailblazer. According to the information I found, it seems to be an issue with the wiring between the liftgate and the chassis. The "short" tells the vehicle that the door is open, and this is why the keyless and the liftgate have issues. I have taken the tape off of the wires, disconnected the coupling and inspected them. I do not see any frayed wires or rubbing issues. Where do I begin troubleshooting which wire is the problem and how do I fix this?
View 3 RepliesSomething weird started happening post my oil change yesterday. AC is working only at LO temp and it blows hot air even at 65. AC light stays on but it starts blowing hot air at any other setting then LO..
View 3 RepliesHow to reset/re-program my original key. It all started when the plastic casing of the key broke off and tried to use the original spare key wallet type with transponder and key dont go all the way in the ignition and key get stuck in one position but manage to get it out. Tried to put the broken one with the transponder close to it and will not start. Luckily i still have another original key that works. I have change the battery of the broken one and fabricated new housing made of brass and have tried the remote and it doesnt work too.
View 12 RepliesMy 2005 RX330 has run fine for all 45000 miles to date. One exception is that there is a high pitched hum that becomes noticeable once the car reaches 30 mph and continues to increase pitch until about 45mph. The hum seems to disappear when going faster than 45. If you cruise on a quiet street at 30mph the hum will stay steady if you maintain speed. The hum will increase if you accelerate.
But... if you take your foot off the gas pedal the hum instantly stops. Put your foot back on the pedal and it instantly starts. You can almost "play a song" by taking your foot off and on the pedal. Lexus service clearly heard the sound during a test drive, but could not figure it out.