Noticed this during an inspection of the wife's '07. Oily bolt on end of transmission case in the driver side wheel well. Definitely a slow seep.... Will have the dealer take a look...
View 1 RepliesI changed the Passenger side with no problem , the driver side bolt is hitting the transmission oil pan. I am thinking of loosening the mounts and try to jack the pan up to get that 1 clearance or worst case drain the transmission take the pan off remove the bolt and put in fluid in. If I drop the the transmission pan is there a filter in there? also how much transmission fluid does it hold.
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I have been noticing a noise from the driver side back wheel. Like a buzzing sound. Is this normal? The reason why I am asking is I received the car like that and I do not know if something is wrong or is just normal operation. The noise can be heard while the car is parked so i do not thing it has anything to do with breaks or such.
View 12 Replies04-V8 - little over 85k. Timing belt replaced recently.
There is a small oily leakage in the very front drivers side under the bumper. Its in front of the tire and as described under the bumper. I see some hoses in that area from underneath and a bit of oil-ly leakage from under the hood looking down into that same area.
So, what lurks behind the front bumper in front of the driver side front wheel? The oil leak seems like light oil, but ... are the oil cooler lines there?
Are the power steering lines there? Asking because I did recently have to fill the power steering reservoir from suddenly near dry (as far as I know) so that is a suspect. And yes, I filled it with the right stuff (pentosin).
So I replaced my air filters today and my drivers side intake hose was wet with a brownish oily substance. I looked around for obvious culprit but found none. Looks like there is an aluminum brick there for brakes but it was shinny and clean the shock tower covers had what looked like built up of this substance. Doesn't leak onto the driveway and see no other signs anywhere else.
View 4 RepliesI'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
My 2005 Prius has 95k miles on it. I've been hearing a cluck-cluck-cluck noise from near the front driver side wheel. I had an independent mechanic test drive it, who said the wheel bearing needs replacement. Should I have it checked out by a Toyota dealer? They're so much more expensive, but are is it worth taking it to them?
View 15 RepliesSomething is snapping/clunk in 4 wheel about every 20-100' driven on the left side. Slightly notice it in 2 wheel but 4 it's loud and you can feel the clunk. It's almost like when you feel the transfer case bind up, yet feels like it's right in the left side, up front. Yes I have to put new tires and rotors up front, upper and lower ball joints and inner tie rod on the right side. U joint in front drive lines feel solid.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2007 LS460 with 90K miles on the clock. It replaces my 2006 LS430, which I loved, but it was getting long in the tooth.
So far, I have fixed the wind noise issue on the pass. side and the only remaining issue is this clicking in the driver rear wheel when the forward or reverse load is first applied.
So, to explain, every time I come to a stop or go from forward to reverse, I hear one or two clicks once I apply the gas. It sounds like some metal part is settling in place. The sound is not there once under way and there is no other noise at all.
The shop I went to spent couple of hours looking for the cause, listening with mechanics stethoscopes, feeling by hand, while the car was in the air with the wheel off and came up with either a rear hub or rear axle on its way out. It is hard to pinpoint the exact source because the click or metal ping is transferred to all the metal components of the assembly and there are plenty of them there.
On my 2003 GX 470 w/ 135,000 I have an issue that I can't figure out how to resolve.
The driver side lets out hot heat and the passenger side lets out cold air. I have the dual climate control and both sides are at MAX HEAT with the blower on HIGH. I have 2 vents for each the passenger and the driver.
The left side of steering wheel vent is allowing max heat. the right side of steering wheel vent lets out warm air. Not as hot as left side but warm. On the passenger side, its only letting out cold air and gets colder if I lower the temp on the climate control for right side.
Engine coolant is full, no lights on dash. Blower motor sounds like its working fine.
2006 GX470. I have an A/C issue where sometimes the driver's side is not cool at all but the passenger side is very cold. Both sides are set to the coldest setting.
The weird part is, I can usually get it to fix itself by reaching back to cycle the rear A/C on and off.
I did a search on here and found one similar thread, however it seemed his fix was replacing the expansion valve; but wouldn't a bad expansion valve cause an issue to both driver's and passenger side?
I am replacing the turbo on my 2005 f350 6.0. I have the passenger side mounting bolt and the rear mounting bolt out, but cannot get the driver side bolt to budge. I have sprayed it with WD40 and PB Blaster and tried a breaker bar. No luck breaking it loose. I am afraid I might round off the head even though I am using a 6 point socket.
View 12 RepliesI found that my transmission was low on oil but couldn't find a leak. What I did find is that the seal in the transfer case was letting trans fluid transfer into it and then it would leak out the out put seal. I purchased the new seal and gasket and repaired it myself in about 3 hours. I removed the rear drive shaft and removed the front drive shaft from the transfer case alone or you can take it out completely if you want.
Drained transfer case unplugged wiring and one vacuum line. Unbloted from trans and removed using trans jack. The bolts are not the easiest to get to. i used a 3/8 ratchet to break them loose then used a stubby 3/8 to get them out because they are around 2 inches long. Once down I had to jack up the truck to get it out from under it. I removed the old seal and installed new one cleaned everything up and installed with a new gasket.
Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
Loving my Black on black ES350 so far with 4000 miles, bought July!
Having a very annoying rattle/creaking near the seat belt pillar on the driver's side? This occurs continously even on smooth highway roads. I will ask them to check it out at the 5k service.
Also, my steering wheel slightly "clicks" when turning the steering wheel 1 full turn to the right. It doesn't do it on the left side, and doesn't seem right. No turn signals or anything is on. Just seems flimsy with all these noises!
I noticed that the driver side front wheel makes a metallic scraping noise while the car is turning right. It sounds like something scraping the rotor or shield behind the rotor ( a rotational/moving kind of scraping noise)
This only happens on a relatively sharp turn (wheel is turned 70~80% to the right). I don't suspect the power steering as there is no noise if the car is not moving even when wheel is turned to extremes. The scraping noise happens at any speed, as long as the car is moving. does not happen when car is turning left.
Note that I am 90% certain it is from the front... my ears may be playing a trick on me (kind of hard to listen precisely while driving). Where to start looking?
I have a 05 Prius. Developed a low hum noise some time ago. It now is so loud can't hear the radio. Sounds like a heavy agressive truck tire rolling down the road. When turning the steering wheel from right to left quickly, noise level changes. Does this sound like a bad wheel bearing and if so what am I looking at for repair costs?
View 5 RepliesLast spring my 2004 Camry, 3.3L with only about 115,000 KM (71,500 miles) started losing Transmission Oil. The lost of oil was very minor but I still had to keep an eye on it.
Last summer, I took the vehicle to a Toyota Dealership and they found the problem. It seems that corrosion created a small hole it the transmission case. just behind the driver's side wheel. The Service Tech was very nice and shared that in all of his years working at Toyota, (about 20 years) he had never witness this and none of the other mechanics had seen this as well. He indicated that my choices were simple, change the transmission or try and repair the hole with J-B Weld type of cold weld product (not sure if they used the J-B Weld product). I of course decided to use the cold weld product as per the mechanic's recommendation.
Well, last fall, the leak started again and it leak all through this past winter. The vehicle now has about 130,000 KM (90,000 miles). Besides this problem, the vehicle is in good shape and still runs very well. The funny thing is that the vehicle had a corrosion product sprayed on the vehicle soon after it was purchased.
Link to photos : [URL]............
First issue started a few weeks ago. When turning left at a speed > 20mph or when turning wheel quickly I get a rattling noise, which is more prominent with the driver window down, so it sounds like it comes from the driver side front wheel, but not quite sure. It is fairly loud as I have had pedestrians look at my car when turning because they can hear the rattle.
Second issue started this morning but has persisted every time since. When the car is cooling down, we get that whirring noise, which I presume is thr coolant pump. That noise also happens now when I enter the car, and it is accompanied by a knocking noise as if somebody is hitting the outside of the car repeatedly. This is quite unnerving as it sounds like something is hitting the bodywork of the car. It stops immediately when the normal whirring stops.
I had the steering and water pump recall done in november last year, could this be related to that? Forgot ti add the car has done 49000miles....
I just replaced my drivers side wheel bearing that was squealing pretty bad. After replacing it I now have the same noise only consistent where before it was only when I turned the wheel to the right. I noticed the teeth in the cv shaft where a little warn down when I changed the hub. Now also along with that noise I'm getting a clunking sound. Should I just change the cv shaft or is there something else I need to be looking at?
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