Recently bought a 2006 RX400h - my first Lexus. Occasionally when braking it feels like the electric motors "won't release" for a second or two and the car lurches. Eventually they do and then braking feels normal. But while this is happening it feels like I have to really step on the brakes to get it to stop.
View 1 RepliesI have an RX 330 with about 154K on it. I have noticed recently that (from a stop) when I press the gas there is a slight hesitation before the car lurches forward and continues down the road. Also, in general the car doesn't seem to have the get and go it once had. What I should look into to determine what might be causing this problem?
View 2 RepliesMkIV 2.0 ... My 4th cylinder will occasionally misfire if I release the clutch at too high of a rev. It is intermittent but happens if I do a burn out or something. How to fix this other then stop doing burn outs and such.
View 2 RepliesSo, I'm thinking of converting my RX330 power steering to be all electric, based on the RX 400h power steering system. I know the 400h operates the power steering on a 30V - 50V circuit but I need the wiring diagram of the 400h power steering circuit to know what additional components I'll need to do the conversion.
Question: Why am I doing this?
Answer: Save on fuel economy and power steering maintenance.
I have a 2000 Lexus RX300, with over 200k miles. The motor blower is making this very (at times) loud noise. To take a closer look, I removed the glove compartment to take a better look at the unit itself. I took a closer look at the blower motor itself and it looks like the top piece of the cone is cracked a little. This is where the little clamp ring is located on the tip of the cone. The noise is definitely coming from this area. I was going to just replace it, but could there be anything wrong with maybe one of the servo motors as well (Airmax or Mode)? It seems that at times (out side of the main noise) the air is not being distributed properly.
View 4 RepliesI have a 93 Nissan 240sx that exhibits weird electrical behavior. I've had the battery and alternator checked at two local Advance Auto Parts locations with results indicating no problems. The car starts and drives fine. Immediately after start, my automatic seatbelts are engaged and the RPMs drop to about 400 and the car shakes violently (while pressing brakes and even when not pressing brakes). RPMs drop anytime accessories are in use. When braking at a stop light, the RPMs drop and the car shakes again. Using my headlights causes the RPMs to drop but not a point where I feel shaking. The problem is worst at night when I am pulling up to my apartment complex with lights on, braking, and using my power windows to access my gate card reader. I don't know if this problem is related, but when I am listening to the radio and turn the volume all the way up, the radio keeps cuts on and off. I have a suspicion it's the grounds, but before I start tracing all my wires. I'd like to hear everyone's input. I determined it was the brake booster vacuum because it also happens when not using the brakes and pinching the line has no effect on idle.
View 10 RepliesIssue on my wife's 2002 SC430. Recently ran into the well-documented disappearing acceleration caused by one of the trifecta of sensors on the throttle (TPS, APPS, and Throttle motor). Replaced the throttle position sensor and seemed to resolve issue. As of about a week ago, however, the car has developed a hiccup that I can't diagnose. Here's what I've recorded and done so far:
Symptoms:
-Hesitation at 1800 or 2300(?) RPM under light throttle and increasing load (often on uphills).
-Throttle down-blip of 100-200 rpm momentarily, only lasts ~1 sec
-Noticable lurch to vehicle, slows down slightly, results in 0.08G accelerometer reading when kicks back in.
-Change in engine exhaust sound as if in C-gate gears on a downhill (sounds like engine braking).
-Sometimes happens repeatedly in quick succession - up to 8 times in 10 seconds.
-Not speed dependent
-Overall performance is fine, not sluggish or hesitating when you stomp on it.
-Intermittant issue, not replicable, happens at random.
-No error codes thrown, no CEL, no DSP lights.
-Consistent -14.7psi vacuum registering on OBDII
Actions taken:
-Recently replaced and tuned throttle position sensor
-Seafoam on a nearly empty tank for 3 mi, half-full tank for 40mi
-Italian tune-up
-Disassembled and cleaned MAF
-Cleaned air filter (K&N)
-Reset computer (battery grounded for 10 min)
So... the question is, what the heck is this? Here are a few thoughts of what to do next in order of easiest/most likely/least expensive:
-Remove ABS relay and check performance (maybe TCS is hitting brakes a little?)
-Check all vacuum lines
-Seafoam cleaning through vacuum lines
-Remove, disassemble and clean TB assembly
-Test continuity on throttle body motor
-Test continuity on VVT solenoids
-Test continuity on full range of APP Sensor
-Replace VVT filters
-Replace VVT solenoids
-Check spark plug torque?
Like the title says. I just bought a used gx470 2004. It has 96k on it. I have a problem with the speedo not working occasionally. It still tracks miles and doesn't shift weird so it's not the speed sensor. I have read a few things about the lube in the cluster getting gunky and not letting it work properly. I have seen a few articles about being able to clean and use some wd-40 to get it working again.
View 6 Replies2004 TB EXT. Replaced pads on all 4, installed new hardware kits front & rear, the anti-rattle clips even had the deluxe black coating on the back (mounting) surface to reduce noise. Occasionally squeaks under light braking at low speeds, such as approaching a stop. About 1 out of 4 stops it does this. Semi-Metallic pads. Irritating noise. Never had this happen before, put same brand & style of pads on my truck, no noise.
View 6 RepliesAfter owning the truck for a little over a year I figure it's time to fix the little stuff staring off with the rear door. When pressing any of the 3 buttons to open/close it I get it to work 50% of the time. That being said, I can't pinpoint a specific bad part.
View 14 Replies'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
View 14 Replies2007 Gen 111, with 148000 miles. Recently I notice the master warning light coming on occasionally when I am braking. I do not have to be braking hard but it seems to show up more often with the engine brake on. Read out on the top of the screen reads "Problem". I am not finding much of anything in the book on this. It did this for a few times a few thousand miles ago and then did not do it for awhile and now it does it again occasionally, but more often. IF it gets bad I'll take it in but otherwise I figure on waiting until the 150K maintenance.
View 4 RepliesMy Car when it comes to a traffic light, wants to lurch just a bit, as I sit waiting for the light to change, I don't know whether it will stall, and also the RPM wants to rev on its own a little when I first get into the car to start it, and also while I am waiting at stoplights.
View 1 RepliesWhat could cause this? Its coming from the rear end. It seems to happen if I am going over 45mph and apply the brakes. It feels like a warped rotor, but if braking from 40mph and below, it is smooth. Both rear wheel bearings have been replaced. Tires are new. There was a vibration while cruising between 40&50mph, which was "cured" by the new tires... While replacing the wheel bearing, I noticed some play in the right rear axle at the joint closest to the wheel.
View 11 Replies05 GX 470...no KDDS...100k miles. When I've been driving a few miles, I feel a pulsating when braking. Feels like it's coming from the front (front left if I had to guess). I put in new rotors and brakes in the front, turned the back rotors and problem still persists, no improvement.
I'm now considering the hub-bearing. However, when I do the standard-check (lift wheel and apply stress from top/bottom) there's no indication of a bad hub bearing.
The problem worsens as I drive faster. When on the highway, if I start to turn the wheel right 'then' brake...the steering wheel pulsates bad. When I turn the wheel left 'then' brake, it's not as bad...but still noticeable. When I start pressing the brake pedal 'then' start to turn the wheel right it's still there but not as bad compared to applying the brake after turning.
There's no pulsation in the break pedal, only the steering wheel and body/chassis.
My wife's 04 GX deflates sometimes when we park it, you can clearly hear a loud "whooshing" noise occasionally when we park it in our garage. The rear then goes to the lowest possible setting, it looks odd laying that low. Because it's not my car, I don't know if it always did that, but it seems "new" to me.
The deflation sound is coming from the rear mounted compressor on the rear driver side, I went under the car to investigate. It also appears that the air bags themselves aren't leaking, I raised the car to the highest setting, and it stayed there without the compressor kicking on or any leaking noise.
My guess is maybe the sensors need to be replaced, the thing is, I don't want to "shotgun" parts at a problem and spend $500 or so dollars on new sensors to experiment. How do I know the rear is behaving correctly?
When I brake very hard my right front wheel will skid, it releases quickly if I modulate the brakes. I removed the calipers to check for any frozen pistons. They are free. Pads are even and the rotors are good. I did bleed the system and no difference. what would cause this? Since I have looked at the mechanical aspect I wonder if there is sensor issue, is that a potential? I am not even sure if there is a sensor.
View 1 RepliesWhat is the best way to go about tackling these problems, need tires but don't want to smoke them with present problems.
View 10 RepliesWhen I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
My 2007 GX470 is making a clunk/thud noise when braking (more often when braking hard or on a downhill slope) and then again when I let off the brakes and start to accelerate. It is significant enough that I can feel the car jerk some when it happens, almost as if someone has tapped the back with their car. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesLately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.