Lexus RX 2004-09 :: No Sound From Fuel Pump When Turning Ignition On
Apr 17, 2016
I have a 2004 MY05 Jap built AWD RX330 that won't start. It is almost 12 yrs old & has 115k miles on it. This is the very 1st problem I've had with it.
Some quick checks indicate that it may be power supply to fuel pump or fuel pump itself. No sounds from it when turning ignition on.
Any wiring diagram for the 5 pin plug for the fuel pump? I'd like to put a meter on it or connect 12V to the pump directly before I remove it.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I have a 2008 RX 350 and I am experiencing issues with turning the key ignition and having the steering wheel locked. It gets locked and after several attempts at jimmying the key it eventually starts. My concern is that if I keep this practice up I will damage my key. I have addressed this issue to the dealership and I was naive and trusted them with fixing the problem with my last maintenance visit. Thinking the the problem was solved I started to experience the same problem again. I was first told that it is possible the my key chains are too heavy which could of caused the problem but I lightened the load and still have this problem. I've read about this problem with other people but there doesn't seem to be a solution.
One thing I have noticed is that I tend to experience this problem during the cold weather. During warmer weathers I don't have issues with the key ignition being locked but now that it's cold I am having the problem again (not sure if this has to do with anything). Do I need to change a part out to fix this? I've also read that there can be dirt in the ignition which needs to be cleaned out. Will this work and if so how do I do clean it?
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The fuel pump on my 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis is still running after turning the ignition off, causing the battery to drain. Replacing the fuel pump relay stops this from happening for a short time but it soon reoccurs. Is it possible there is a short in the ignition system, or is this a sign that the fuel pump is going out?
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Without key even in ignition, fuel pump relay clicks constantly every 8 seconds with the gauge lights illuminating during this 8 seconds. The only lights that function are the gauge lights. Upon turning on the headlight switch only the gauge lights illumin8. Absolutely no headlights, dome light or brake lights. No fuel pump sense/pulse. No radio, key on or in accessories.
Multi-function switch was not the issue. How would I troubleshoot this one?
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Having a problem with the fuel pump engaging. Warm or cold same problem. When I turn the ignition on I can hear the fuel pump engage and the car runs fine on start. Other times I turn the ignition on and don't hear the pump engage, thus no start. But repeatedly turning the ignition on an off I get the fuel pump to engage and I have start, will run until I shut it down. been doing this for a couple of weeks now. Is this an ignition thing or fuel pump? No wiring diagram. Replaced all relays, battery good. Never did anything with the fuel system.
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I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
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2006 RX400h AWD. I've been experiencing a new and irritating creaking sound that happens when I'm turning left and/or right
The odd thing is that it sounds like it is coming from the center console. I've moved it all the way forward, all the way back and removed the contents of the console...no luck.
My searches didn't find anything close to my scenario. I know that there's a TSB for the front seat pins, but my sound isn't coming from the front seat.
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My 2005 GX (108k miles) seems to be in great shape. When i replaced the front CV boots i looked carefully at all suspension components and i did not see anything damaged, loose or suspicious.
However, when the truck is SLOWLY moving (entering into my driveway or getting out of parking spot), and when i turn the steering wheel ALL THE WAY to the right, i hear and almost feel a single semi-loud clunk from under the car. I am 99% sure it is related to the steering movement. When the car drives straight or when i am making smaller turns on the street, there is no clunk, noise or vibration at all. I haven't noticed it during U-turns yet, but maybe i haven't paid enough attention. Something must be loose or worn out. The clunk is very obvious when it happens.
Where this could be coming from? Any well known weak components in the front suspension setup that may need attention at 108k miles? I am thinking about tie rod ends or sway bar links but i am not sure if a bad tie rod / link would produce such "clunk" when turning all the way.
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Intermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
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2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
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My 2001 Oldsmobile Alero only starts about 50% of the time and has also turned off twice when I was driving, once in a parking lot and once when I was stopped at an intersection. It cranks and the radio and lights work. The fuel pump was replaced two years ago and sometimes you can hear the pump turn on and sometimes you can't. My husband replaced the fuel pressure regulator and has switched out the fuel pump relay but it hasn't fixed the problem. Based on this, can you tell whether the fuel pump might need to be replaced again or whether it could be something else connected to the fuel pump, or something else entirely? The fuel pump is under warranty at the dealership that replaced it, but unless the fuel pump is bad then I don't want to go back to this dealership and would rather go to different repair shop.
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I have a 2002 ford explore 4.0 sport 4wd. I have a problem with my car, one day I tried starting the car and it didn't want to start. So i replaced the fuel filter and the car started. then after starting it a few times it didn't want to start anymore, so i took of the fuel tank (thinking bad gas, and there was stuff in the gas) so i take out the old gas out and put new gas, and bought a new fuel pump and filter, and when i put the gas tank back on the car, it still didnt want to start, so i take the fuel pump and find a random battery and connected it to the fuel pump and the pump spins so it works. I connected the pump to the car by itself not it the fuel tank (from underneath the car) and i was under the car to see if the pump turns on and someone tuned the car on, and the pump doesn't turn on (doesn't spin or anything). Long Story short, what i should do? Also I was looking for the fuel pump fuse and couldn't find it (thinking it might be the fuse) what is the fuse number or where its located.. i know where the fuel pump relay is, but just not the fuse. Why the pump wouldn't turned on??? The pic is how my fuse box looks like(there are many different version of the fuse box just wanted to show you how mine looks)...
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I'd been suspecting that the fuel pump on the car was going bad recently, and yesterday when turning a corner the engine shut off and it won't start back up. At first it would turn over a couple times, but now there's nothing at all. I've checked the timing belt, which is good, and I'm almost positive that there's no fuel getting to the engine. The problem is that I can't figure out where the fuel pump / relay is located.
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A friend has 2005 escape 3l. He called me yesterday saying that he needed replacing his fuel pump.
Before I got to his place he had already replaced the fuel filter...
We got the pump replaced, and when we went to start the vehicle, it still wouldn't start.
We double checked to make sure everything was connected and plugged in and it was. We checked all fuses, and they were all good.
This morning I am going to try jumping the relay and see if that does anything. What else to check?
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So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
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I worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
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5.4 L, Engine runs if primed at the intake. Fuel pump can be heard running but no fuel gets to the engine. Truck is mint and being sold real cheap due to this issue.
Fuel Pump? Filter? Both? I haven't seen the truck, a friend is considering buying it and rolling the dice it is a quick fix. Fuel is in the tank .....
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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98 Passat 1.8T FWD
Car will not start. No sound from fuel pump while cranking. Pulled up the carpets and pulled the cover and connector from the fuel pump. Ive heard the relay is the common problem. I tried checking the voltages on the harness and we get 0 while cranking. Pulled the relay and we get a resistance from T pin to pin 86. I did notice a yellow color on the white connector on the fuel pump itself around the middle two contacts.
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