Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Lower Control Arm Suspension Bushings Replacement?
Feb 20, 2010
Car has a little over 100K. How to replace the bushings on the suspension arms. Took my car in for the brake switch recall and was told my bushings were cracked. Not sure which ones, but I assume all of them. Looked online for a DIY, but not for the RX330. From some of the DIY's I've seen so far, it looks like a bit$! to replace those rubber bushings.
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Brought the Tig in for an oil change & while it was on the lift the tech noticed that the subject bushings are cracked/separating...Tig has about 43,400 mi...is this a common issue?
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Front lower control arm bushings are completely separated. Looking to upgrade in some way to poly bushings or some other sort of performance setup.
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I bought a used 2007 Lexus RX350, FWD, in December 2012 and had it looked over before I signed the papers by a non-biased mechanic. He said the control arm bushings would need to be replaced in the future.
When I took the car in last month to my mechanic (a private mechanic, not a Lexus dealership), he said the control arm bushings on the right side are worn a lot more than the left side. He said on this Lexus, it would require removing the engine to replace the parts (?) and that because it was such a labor intensive job, and the left will eventually wear, that he advises I get both the left and right replaced at the same time.
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We've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
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Looking for a write up on replacing the control arm? Do they not make chilton manual for these cars?
I have the toyota service manual but it is not the most useful. Does the engine need to be lifted to remove the right hand control arm?
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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Replacing lower control arms? I've read a couple places that you don't need a spring compressor. Anything else to look out for? 2000 F150 4.6L 2WD 288,000 miles....
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I own a 2004 GX470 and am recently having issues with my rear airbag. The height control is inoperative and the bags will not fill completely and lift the rear.
I went under the car and found the bumpstops are a few centimeters off the rear axle.
What could cause the height control to not function? Could it be the height sensor, airbag, etc? I could hear the air compressor turn on so do not think that is an issue.
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Having issue when you park the car and don't turn off the car immediately, the suspension will not lower even with the Easy Access on?
I'm not sure if there is a setting or how long is the timer, but it happened to me many times already after I stop and put it in Park, but didn't kill the ignition immediately and went to check my messages first, the car will stay in Normal position when you turn off the car later
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By way of brief background, I have a 2004 Touareg with 180,000 miles. I recently noticed that the front left air suspension was sitting lower than normal after the truck had been sitting. I discovered that the shock was leaking air and in the subsequent days began getting "Running Gear Workshop" warnings on the MFI. I got both the orange ones and a red one that instructs you to stop immediately. It reset after parking, and restarting. In summary, I knew I had a problem.
Today, I stopped at the dealer and they confirmed that the fitting at the top of the air shock was in deed leaking. Attached is a photograph showing the fitting. It is important that you inspect these fittings ASAP if you have air suspension. There is a TSB that references corrosion and possible failure. See TSB 43 07 01
Initially I was told that the entire air shock would have to be replaced but after doing research and with the assistance of Spockcat, I discovered that the fitting can be replaced assuming the female portion of the connection is not corroded. Replacing the entire air shock assembly is expensive. Apparently, there have been some instances where the fitting has failed during driving and bad things happen.
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So I'm replacing all the control arms on the front end of my 02 F150 Supercrew 2WD.. Drivers side wasn't much trouble, other than having to cut the top mounting post of the shock off to get it out, and breaking the swaybar link. No big deal, I'll get new ones with new bushings. Was also planning on new shocks soon also, so it'll be sooner than later. Got the passenger side upper off, and new one in. No problem there either.
The lower rear bolt came out OK also... Had to cut this shock out also... No problem... Then I got to the lower front bolt. It is frozen solid to the bushing inner sleeve. Broke out the impact wrench, impact hammer, BFH, prybar, torch, cut-off wheel, sawzall, etc... Got the bolt cut off on the nut end, but can't get cut thru the other. The sleeve must be much harder than the bolt. Went thru a few blades. Need to either find the wrenches for my grinder, or buy some new ones. can't change the cut-off wheel out right now.
You can't get a hammer in there to get a good swing at it, and the bolt head is recessed up in the frame, so you can't even pry on it once you have it out a tiny bit. So, is there any magic potion to getting these bolts out? or am I doing pretty much everything everyone else has to do? Am I just lucky it's only one of the bolts? I know I've got thru this with leaf sprints also, but there easy to take off and take over to the workbench and get the drill, saw, etc at them better.
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I am in need of new radius arm bushings (both sides). How to be able to just unbolt the sway bar, unbolt the shocks, dismount the coil springs so they fall out to the sides and then drop the rear of the radius arms so they could press out the old bushings and insert the new? This is a 2WD and I think the process would be same for an F250 of the same year (2000 - 2004). The reason I ask is because I really, really don't want to have to get down to the king pin level and completely remove the radius arms if I don't have to.
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I have a 2009 Corolla S. When I drive on the highway and the road dips and then comes back up, I hear a crunching sound as the wheels come back up. It almost sounds like springs. I thought maybe it was the cold weather but it isn't. The sound is in the front end.
At 53,000 miles, it seems early for this kind of problem and I never have had this so early in the life of a car. I do have the Toyota Extended Warranty of 125000 miles and 8 years. Would this be covered under that?
It doesn't really happen over bumps, it's when the car dips down and comes back up on the highway...50 mph or more.
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As a lot of Camry in this world, my rear sway bar bushings went bad. Tried to replace them, I went slowly with the ratchet on the first bolt as I don't want to go with the impact tool, but that damn bolt decided to break anyway...
I called my local dealer and he said he don't have the replacement in stock and he cannot tell me the size of this bolt.
What is the size? My 07 SE have the bracket with only two bolts.
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Just got my car back from the shop and it squeaks pretty loudly at low speeds. It seems pretty clearly to be coming from underneath the front seats and it sounds like rubber rubbing against steel so I am guessing its the control arm bushings.
Yesterday I took it to the shop to have the passenger side control arm installed and to have the tie rods done and get an alignment.
This past weekend I installed new drivers side control arm/ball joint, front struts (also installed a new rear hub & wheel bearing). I did not hear any squeaking after I did that.
Is this just something that needs to be broken in?
It wasn't til I got it back from the shop that it started to squeak. I only notice it from 0-20 mph then it seems to go away. Everything else seems fine, suspension, steering and alignment are all great and there's no clunking etc.
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2003 f250 6" lift on 35s. How to lift the suspension to change out spring bushings? Was thinking using two chain falls on tow hooks on the front, any easier, safe, cheaper way. I have a farm jack but need to weld a plate on bottom of it for more support...
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can you replace the upper control arm bushings (pass side) with the arm still in the truck?
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I am having an issue with the car not feeling stable on the highway or at speeds over 50mph when I am on a curve and go over a roadwork patch. The cabin of the car seems to float way too much to the side, almost like hydroplaining although the wheels stay put on the road.
After describing this to a mechanic, he said it sounds like my lower control arm bushings are gone. He looked at them and confirmed it, the rubber bushings that control the side to side action are cracked and worn out. He said that he is unable to just replace the bushing and has to special order the whole arm from the dealer (approx 200$ each arm).
I went to get a second opinion and another mechanic basically told me the same thing except the price on the part went down to 175 per arm with 2-3 hours labor.
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I have an 06 F150 2wd that needs both lower ball joints. I've done searches and everyone keeps talking about a big freaking hammer. Can't you just use a ball joint press kit to remove and reinstall these? If no I'm gonna find someone to put them in for me because Im scared of breaking the aluminum control arm. There was also some talk of using some sorta glue on the joints as well.
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On my 99 at the tip of the springs there is what looks used to be plastic wear spacers between the leafs. Mine are worn out and I think it is part of a squeak noise I am chasing.
What that part would be, where I could get them, and do I have to break down the leaf assembly to change them or could I raise the truck by the frame and take the load off the springs enough to get the in?
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