Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Gas Mileage Slightly Lower Than Normal On RX350
Dec 31, 2015
I had made a trip down to Branson Missouri for Christmas, which is about 1000+ miles round trip, and the milage seemed to be slightly lower than normal on the computer, about 23 mpg. I went to Iowa after that for Christmas and filled up my tank once when I was there, I was sure to get 91 octane gas. Then after doing a lot of in town driving it went all the way down to about 11 mpg. It jumped back up to 17.9 as I was driving back up to the Twin Cities and hasn't moved after doing some in town driving since then.
The tank seemed to match the computer as far as how fast it dropped, but I'm curious if there's anything I should be looking for. I have a K and N filter in there, and it's only been used 10,000 miles or so, but I cleaned it anyways, since there were some bugs and small leaves in it (there was also a large black spot on it that didn't look like dust or dirt, more like something oily, if that means anything). I'm planning on filling it up a couple more times and seeing what happens before I start going to my mechanic, but I'm switching jobs and will be driving it for work, so I'd like my vehicle to be running well.
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I finally purchased an RX30 for my wife. The Halogen headlight isn't all that bad, but I am used to drive with HID. Therefore, I am buying HID kits for my RX350 Headlight. Whenever it is shipped to me, I will take pictures of the progress.
1/ Link to buy HID kits, OEM is 55W (no need for extra Hardnes) and 6000k is common factory color.
This will come with everything needed to convert your light bulbs into HID white colors. For more Colors please check out the guide on the website.
I recommend this site, because I have used it, purchased it, and have had no problem with it so far.
2/ According to Manual Book
****Low Beam is H11****
Fog Lights is *****H11*****
****High Beam is H9*****
**** 55W *****
3/ The installation should be Relatively Easy
--Take off engine plastic cover on both side--
--Access the Light Bulb--
--Use the OEM Plugs into the Ballasts input of the HID KID--
--Mount the Ballasts at a convenience locations, I had great success with Plastic ties--
--There is a Plugs output from the Ballast, Plug it into the HID Bulbs--
*****If the lights don't turn on after installation, try to switch Polary, or turn the original plugs around
****** Halogen doesn't care about Polary, but HID Ballast does.
--Install the HID Bulbs the same as regular Halogen Bulb--
--Check the HID carefully, make sure that both will work--
First time Installer common trouble shoots.
1/ Only 1 light is working......Switching the bulbs, or Polary will solve your problem
2/ Lights common for a short time then turn off, until engine restart......You will need the Hardness Relay, which should not occur in our car. The factory hardness is good for 55W
3/ Bulb Visually contain Contaminants, or White particle inside.......HID Bulbs has Special Salt in it, which is required for a longer life in the Bulbs. This is the way the bulbs are.
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Just got a 2012 Lexus RX 350, but find out that the engine sound is quite "noisy" in the lower gear or when pushing the pedal. Is this just my car, or is common?
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It has been so effective to add diesel injector cleaner to my 2004 Honda (all of 62,000 miles on it), that it is scaring me. Am I damaging anything? I add about an ounce/gallon every once in a while. Mileage drops back in between.
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Experienced lower mileage after changing the plugs at about 120k miles?
In the 10 months (23.6k miles) since I had the dealer change the plugs, I have averaged 43.3 mpg overall.
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By way of brief background, I have a 2004 Touareg with 180,000 miles. I recently noticed that the front left air suspension was sitting lower than normal after the truck had been sitting. I discovered that the shock was leaking air and in the subsequent days began getting "Running Gear Workshop" warnings on the MFI. I got both the orange ones and a red one that instructs you to stop immediately. It reset after parking, and restarting. In summary, I knew I had a problem.
Today, I stopped at the dealer and they confirmed that the fitting at the top of the air shock was in deed leaking. Attached is a photograph showing the fitting. It is important that you inspect these fittings ASAP if you have air suspension. There is a TSB that references corrosion and possible failure. See TSB 43 07 01
Initially I was told that the entire air shock would have to be replaced but after doing research and with the assistance of Spockcat, I discovered that the fitting can be replaced assuming the female portion of the connection is not corroded. Replacing the entire air shock assembly is expensive. Apparently, there have been some instances where the fitting has failed during driving and bad things happen.
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Just bought a 2010 Prius... Anyways... I have noticed that at steady speed (mainly higher speed) I feel a very slight power stutter (though that may not be the best word here). Not enough to change the speedometer reading, but I can feel it a little... of course I'm very sensitive to these sorts of things since it's a used car and I have only a 30 day window to identify any problems. It feels like maybe it's working out the gas:elec ratio it wants to use, which would seem normal. It's all drive-by-wire right?
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My parents have a 2007 RX350 and they had the airbag light come on once in a while. I have the car right now so I could figure out the issue for them and get it fixed.
The light wouldn't come on for the first couple days and it off today for a while until I move the seat fully backward and then forward. After I restarted the vehicle the light came on.
I got to work and tried tightening all connectors under the seat and the light did go off and stay off but I didn't drive it after that.
When the light is on it blinks in the 1-second on / 1-second off pattern. When my dad's friend-mechanic checked it out, he said that the description of the code he could read was something like "open [squib] circuit connector", unfortunately, he can't remember.
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I have a 2007 RX350, now at 110K miles, bought at 80K miles. I recently notice a sudden drop in mpg about 5K miles back (it might happen before that but I did not notice). Previously, the car gets around 25MPG on average, now it can only get 21 - 21.5 mpg, my range of a full tank drops around 60 miles. My route of driving everyday is pretty much the same. I have tried to change gas branch, using fuel system cleaner (Chevron Techron), check tire pressure but no luck.
What might be happening with the car that makes this significant drop in mpg?
I changed power steering rack and pinion at a dealer also about 5k miles back and at that point I had a dispute with a service consultant there. He made me drive back and forth a couple times without telling me that the part hadn't arrived yet (the car was on extended warranty). I then emailed directly to his boss. After that he treated me really well: gave me a most recent model loaner car for a week and did not charge for gas, and waived the deductible. Now I notice the MPG drop so I kind of link with this event and put him in doubt . Well, I'm not sure if he could do anything to the car since he's not the technician but still ... Can a guy put something to a car to reduce its fuel efficiency?
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OK, maybe I'm just spooking myself, but I've been getting poorer gas mileage than usual as of late, like 4 to 5 mpg less. I used to get 30+ when I took my car to work, but lately I've been getting 25 to 26 mpg. I calculated it out and it seemed less still, though I didn't do a very accurate calculation.
The other day, I felt like my ESP was kicking in early because my tires are getting a bit old and bald, so I turned it off for my drive home. I immediately noticed that I felt like more power was available (though that was probably my mind playing tricks) and my average MPG for the trip shot up to the 28.5 mpg range with some spirited driving.
Where the ESP or ASR has caused lower MPG? I replaced my MAF sensor recently because it had gone bad, or at least I was fairly certain it had, but now I'm not sure. I also have coil-packs due in the next few thousand miles or so as well, but this seems sporadic. I diagnosed the MAF (which the car was getting around 22MPG before the change) by disconnecting it. It shot up to the 30MPG range with it disconnected, but thinking back, my CEL as well as the ESP light came on. I'm wondering if my ECU turned off the ESP with the MAF disconnected and that is what increased my mileage, not the bad MAF...
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I went to the local dealer at about 6K miles to get the free 5K service. The invoice said synthetic service, so it should be the 0W-20. Now the average mileage since the last fill-up is lower by at least 3-4 MPG. My driving habits haven't changed. I inflated the tires to above 40 PSI. I looked at the oil. It is medium amber colored. (I forgot to look at it before the oil change. )
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I have a 2007 RX 350 my daytime running lights do not come on. The bulbs are good.
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I don't know how to turn on rear wiper on my lexus rx350 2007.
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My 2007 RX350 has 14500 mlles. After almost coming to a stop (5mph) and at times that I need to accelerate quickly while traveling at approx 30mph the transmission wants to hunt for the proper gear. ILO downshifting to the next lowest gear it does nothing but hunts for a second (seems like a minute with traffic approaching) then grabs a gear. Engine RPM revs naturally but too high. Dealer states this is normal for the hunting action. The vehicle is perfect other than this one small problem.
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My dad said his 2009 RX350, he noticed that the brake light on the dash randomly comes on and off sometimes now.
I've read that a lot of the earlier models had an issue with the brake light switch that was causing the VSC, brake, and ABS lights to come on, but in his case it is only the brake light alone that is lighting up.
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My dad drove the RX350 to get some groceries last night and was shocked to see all the windows and moon roof was open after he came out of the store...
My guess is something was pressed against the unlock key on the remote when he was exiting the car and walk toward the supermarket entrance and triggered the all window open from remote...
Fortunately, nothing was stolen but he was shocked...I think I will have the dealer program the RX and disable this feature...
However, I was also shocked that we can only open all the windows but not close them w/ the remote...seems like a bad design...if you can open windows from the remote...you would think you can close all the windows too right??
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I can't get an accurate reading on my dipstick of my '08 RX 350. I just tried after it sat all night and the oil is over the full marks. I just had the oil changed at Lexus and they used my 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and I told them not top it off to 6.5 quarts because I wanted to.
The tech said he did not add more than what I gave him. I just called Lexus and they said, yes it is difficult to get an accurate reading for some reason. He said check when the oil is warm and has sat for 5 minutes. Any others have trouble reading the oil dipstick accurately?
'08 RX 350 Flint mica/ blk 84,000 miles
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My 2007 RX350 popped the check engine light. Stopped at an auto parts store and read the codes. They were:
P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 P0304 P0305 P0306
C0215 C1201 C01223
U0073 UI0123 U0124 U0125
I am most concerned with the P03xx codes. Could this be one common part? I'm on the road about 1500 miles from home.
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Have a 2008 RX350. It is our first Lexus product. The dashboard has begun to crack. Now has 4 cracks of various sizes. Contacted Lexus they said too bad. This should not happen to a Luxury vehicle. Sure makes the interior look like crap.
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Our 2007 RX350 with 91,000 miles started an annoying rattle at startup that lasts a couple seconds then goes away. The car drives fine and makes no unusual noise after the initial start. Its definitely not normal as it hasn't done it the last 91K miles we have driven the car.
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Was wondering, there is a crack in their shifter bezel?
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