Ok, so about 3 months ago I noticed the fan was blowing kinda loudly, but stopped. Then 2 weeks ago, my AC just stopped the next morning it started blowing again, then 2 days later it stopped again and hasn't come back on. When I try to turn it on I can feel a light trickle of cool air but I don't hear the fan. .. what does this sound like?
View 1 RepliesFor the past week, my wife's 2004 GX A/C has been blowing hot air off and on. At first I thought this was due to low refrigerant but after pressure testing it appears to be full. Yesterday afternoon I was driving the car home and the A/C was blowing cool air then suddenly stopped again, I happened to look at the engine temperature gauge and noticed it creeping to "H". I shut down the air all together, pulled over and it cooled. The gauge actually stayed below the half way point the rest of the way home, until I had to stop at a light, then it slowly climbed up to the "H" again, the lowered as I drove to a cruising speed 55MPH. One home, I looked at the coolant reservoir and there was no fluid in it (not sure if this is normal) and there was no sign of smoke or fluid leaking. Could this be a thermostat issue, radiator issue, loss coolant issue???
View 7 RepliesI'm not sure if I've just gotten used to the sound of the car or what but lately, it seems like the engine is ticking pretty loudly. It runs perfectly and I didn't think much of it until my friend commented on it. Sounds like it is coming from the drivers side (mainly).
View 14 RepliesYesterday I was driving with the AC on. I had it on the setting that blows out of all 4 dash vents (left, right, and two middle). I switched it to the option that should blow from the 4 dash vents and the vents in the floor/bottom. All of a sudden the two middle vents in the dash stopped blowing.
I have played with the settings - on, off, all the way hot, all the way cold - nothing from the two mid vents. The left and right vent blow with no problem. There is also cold air coming from the vent near the windshield - just the two middle dash vents are not functioning.
I found one thread that mentioned the problem may be with the "levers" or "actuators" that I have pictured here. I just replaced the 12v battery.
I've had my 2009 prius for about a month or so, used of course, a/c was working just fine until one day while parked, I turned the a/c on, put the fan at high and the cooling at low, when suddenly something went "puffff" under the front hood with blow of steam or dust or something like it not sure!
I immediately turned the car off, opened the hood and everything looked just fine, turned the a/c back on, it won't blow cool air no more...
Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
My car: 2008 Prius (base)
Here is the problem: All of a sudden the two middle vents in the dash stopped blowing. I have played with the settings - on, off, all the way hot, all the way cold - nothing from the two mid vents. The left and right vent blow with no problem. There is also cold air coming from the vent near the windshield - just the two middle dash vents are not functioning.
What I have done so far: I had it looked at by a mechanic who I trust. He said there is a small motor (he called it a servo motor) that controls that middle vents (open/close). He said that had gone bad. He manipulated it so that the air blows out of the vents now and said not to change any settings until I am ready to replace the part.
My wife and I are on a 2400 mile cross country road trip road trip and we just got a check engine light about 12 hours away from home. The check engine light, VSC, and tons of other lights appeared. Shortly after our cruise control disengaged and then A/C stopped blowing cold air. We were cruising along in 100F degree weather at about 75-80mph climbing a 10-mile incline with the AC on full blast.
We got to a Toyota dealership but they are closed until Monday so we'd have to wait 2 days for them to check it out. We went to pep boys and they found the code to be "Drive Motor B" which they said should be fixed by Toyota dealership (but he said he didn't really know what the issue is).
I did a quick search and found this might be the inverter coolant pump. Like another poster, I found the car seems to work okay when the AC is off.
I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
View 1 RepliesOK so I bought my Prius a little over a week ago and there was no rattle. I drove it 350 miles to get it home and it was completely silent. A couple of days ago I heard a slight rattle, and its not even a rattle is like rubbing 2 Styrofoam cups together, but now today it is extremely loud. So loud that I can still hear it over the radio blasted. I have pressed everywhere on the dash and cannot quiet the noise. It sounds like it is dead center under the vent. First thing I did was to come on here and research. I have read tons and tons of threads regarding removing dash and placing felt but I could not find instructions on how to remove the dash. Looking for step by step instructions?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 fx4 with 75000 km it runs great but when I go on a long ride up hills or tow my trailer it acts up only when I get to my destination. the engine will run really rough and knock loudly seems only when I use reverse or sometimes park (and oil pressure in dash looks good),and if I shut ignition off and restart it no problems till I make engine work hard again.
View 14 RepliesI had my 2006 GX 470 in for 30k service last month. Cabin Filter was replaced.
Now with the temp set to 68 degrees, outside air on, the vent(AC off) blows hot air, usually when using the car first time in the day. Sometimes, after a while, cool air starts blowing in. I feel something changed after the service. If I set the temp to MAX Cold it blows cool air. I have had this car since 2006 and not seen this behavior.
Currently its cold in California so outside air should not be hot at all. I also experienced this when it was snowing outside, during our Reno trip.
I have a 2004 2nd generation Toyota Harrier (Lexus model RX330). The A/C blowing hot air if temperature is not set to Max Cold. This happened no matter whether turn on the A/C with Auto or Manual setting. This case also happen no matter whether setting the A/C system to Dual mode or not, no matter whether turn on or off the air intake control button.
As long as A/C on, cold air only come out when temperature set to Max Cold, even if set to 18 degree, full hot air come out. Another thing is, say I have the A/C on, set to max cold, cold air came out from the front vent, but after I try to increase the temperature to say 18 degree, the hot air flow will change to Floor/Windshield mode.
Could it because due to the change of the battery? Is there anything need to reset after replacing the battery?
It seems my A/C isn't blowing cold air all the time. It's as if the compressor isn't kicking on or is intermittent. It eventually does, but it takes a long time to cool the vehicle. I've had it about 6 years and it has definitely changed. Vehicle is an '04 with 106K now.
View 7 RepliesHad a question about the rear a/c cooling on my 2009 GX 470 - the last few days have been nice enough to warrant using the A/C. I noticed though, that the 4 rear vents seem to not be producing any cool air - kind of a problem when I have an overheated Boxer dog that would love some cool A/C. Any thoughts? I have the rear A/C on, all the way to the - or minus sign and the fan speed to Auto.
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2006 GX470, 90,000 miles no problems with car until 6 mths ago. A/C has been deteriorating since last yr. This summer charged twice lasted ok for few weeks. Problem initially was wouldn't cool when car was idling, only worked when going 50+mph. A/C charged worked better for 3 weeks, then drivers side not cooling but rest of car somewhat cool. Issue today is drivers side blowing out heat & rest of a/c vents barely cool at all. Told by Lexus need to rip out dashboard to get to compressor to check & fix leak. Last look by Lexus added 2 lbs of refrigerant 3 weeks ago & now completely not working.
View 1 RepliesThe fuse wont blow instantly when I install a new one, it happens after about 5-6 days.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 GX470. Now that the weather has dropped I have noticed that my heater is taking a long time to warm up all it does is blow cold air out of the vent. Subsequently I have started to notice that they car will start to overheat. It will never get to the point where it will hit the red but it will go up and then come back down to mid range. There doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the car, it idles fine, starts fine etc. Could these two issues be related?
View 14 RepliesCouple of days ago when my wife turned the car on and started driving, the battery light came on and when she stepped on the gas it made a whining sound. Also when she moved the gear into reverse, the door locks did not lock automatically. Once the car was driven about 30 minutes and she got on the highway, the battery light turned off and the sound went away. I was not able to replicate that issue when she arrived that night or the next day.
Should I just replace the alternator even if the problem does not recur?
Ok, a year or two ago, a small leak in our 04 GX470 prompted me to have an a/c guy recharge system (little did I know how easy it was to do). At the time, he used his blacklight (during the day) and "thought" the condenser might have a leak in it.
Fastforward to now, the system stopped cooling. There isn't any noise from the compressor and the clutch does seem to engage normally.
I went to Autozone and rented the DVD on A/C systems. Using the gauges, I found there was no pressure on the H or L sides. I replaced the condensor (a no brainer ... it even came filled with desiccant/drier though I had to return it since the condenser didn't have the plugs in place so the desiccant/drier would have likely been 'wet' already ... no problem). I noted a very slight grainy, metallic in the system, but not very significant ... I did not flush any hoses, but I did look at all visible hoses for dye stains.
I connected a vacuum pump and kept it a 30mm Hg vacuum for 30 min and rechecked it 30 min later to see that it held the vacuum. The first time, it didn't, so I rechecked my connections and repeated. It seemed to work. I charged the system with 24 oz (27-29 is capacity so I wasn't quite full) and the system was nice and cold.
Unfortunately, cool only lasted 3-1/2 days!
The original condenser plug (for the desiccant reservoir) was plastic or teflon, but the one that came with my replacement was Aluminum. A replacement desiccant bag also came with another plug (a plastic or teflon one), but it seemed to strip so I opted for the metal one anyway (besides, it had two green 'O' rings to just one 'O' ring for the plastic one.
Two days ago, I thought I'd got it to hold the vacuum in the system, recharged it again (I dried the desiccant bag in the oven for 5 hours at 175 deg F to make sure I'd gotten rid of any moisture that had developed).
Dog gone it, it's hot again! Looking at it with my black light at night, I do see dye (I'm using the yellow kind) at the L-side Schrader valve and on the plug to the desiccant compartment, but no where else. Where's the drip line for the condensate so I can check to see if there's a leak in the evaporator?
I tried wrapping some teflon tape around the metal plug for the desiccant/drier, but it still wouldn't hold a vacuum when I tried using the pump tonight.
I have another dessicant/drier bag and plug arriving tomorrow since I'm afraid that it still could just be leaking out the base of the condenser, but I'm not sure.