Picked up my rx300 on Monday. Got engine and vsc lights on. Tried battery off to reset. Worked for a day then back. Got a code reader and reset. Found a p00016 code? Crankshaft potion/camshaft position bank 1 sensor A correlation ?
View 1 Replies2008 Prius recently lost acceleration (would only creep along) and soon stopped. Warning lights - red triangle with !, red split car on mid, check engine - came on. About 10 minutes later the car started and allowed my daughter to creep the last 1/4 mile home. DTC's - P0A3F and P2196. Was recently gassed up, so checked gas cap, thinking it may have set the oxygen sensor code. It was loose, tightened it. Pulled the EFI fuse for a couple minutes to reset the codes (not sure it did). Put the smart key back in and warning lights came on again. May have to take to dealer, but would like to have some notion as to what's causing this. Possibly related -- a couple weeks ago the 12V battery got drained overnight. Pulled it and recharged and everything seemed to be running fine.
View 10 RepliesI picked up a 2007 GS350 AWD with a little under 60K miles a few weeks ago, I've been absolutely loving the car, but noticed the check engine light/check VSC came on this morning on a cold start; it also sounded a bit rough on idle. I have an Android to bluetooth OBDII scan tool for my other cars so I pulled the codes, and it's showing P0300, P1600, P1700, and P1800.
Searched the forums and nothing comes up for those specific codes. But the first couple of things that came up as culprits for check VSC were the gas cap and brake fluid; went out and bought an OEM gas cap and made sure the brake fluid was topped off this afternoon. I reset the faults and drove the car around, but the lights came back on about 15 miles later. It drives and shifts fine, but I still think it's a bit noisy at idle.
A little background on the car: The previous owner only drove it on weekends and for events here and there, hence the relatively low mileage. The car was sitting in his garage for almost a year before I bought it, he finally got rid of it because he wasn't using it. I grabbed it despite a higher asking price because of the mileage and how clean it looked, but now I'm a bit worried. Is this bad gas? Should I flush all of the fluids? MAF or other sensors? I'm a bit lost.
What can be done regarding these faults? P0037 and P0057
Description:
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
The catalytic converters have been removed but the fault was present before that anyway. All I want is the VSC function to work again and the lights to go off. I have heard you can put dummy sensors in.
2002 ... I've been getting a soft engine fault all three lights on and reduced power. This usually occurs if I accelerate hard but also happens if I take a small pot hole in the front, a little bump seems to trigger it as well. Also engine resets to normal after removing key.
It's not logging the fault as had dealer read ECU and said was not logged.
These warning lights are lit but my code reader (Actron CP9180) shows 'pass' meaning no fault codes. I had a similar thing happen about a year ago Before I had my own reader) and the cause was a faulty speed sensor on one wheel. Since then all 4 hubs have been replaced. Does this sound like the brake module?
View 14 RepliesSo I picked up a 337 a little while ago, which I absolutely love, but there are some fault codes I have to deal with. Pretty sure I took care of the ABS hydraulic pump code. The ABS and ASR light came on after driving in some snow, but I found a thread about that, cleaned the fuses and the light is no longer on.
The following are the problems I am experiencing while driving the car:
I am seeming to have a power drop in 1st gear at low rpms. I have never driven a turbo'd car but I don't believe this is just turbo lag. It isn't a quick increase in power, rather a brief decrease, sort of like it's bogging down. I thought it was just me at first, but I have noticed it too many times and my gf even noticed it. I am not sure if this is related, but I thought I would mention it.
On occasion the dash lights will flash off then back on and reset my trip odo and clock. This has been happening more frequently as of late. It normally happens when I turn the lights on, or switch the brights on. The engine has completely turned off once at a stop light. I am currently searching all the codes online and am hoping to find a solution, but I am definitely concerned.
Also the AC/heater controls dials lights are out (just the three dials), and the 12v power outlet is not working. I tried switching the fuse but it isn't that. Thought this might connected. Final bit of info, the instrument cluster had a problem and was replaced by a dealer on November 29th. I don't know much more about it, I bought it right after that was done. Here are the actual fault codes.
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 ML
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 07510
[Code] ....
All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000
I have a 2010 GX460 with about 81000 miles on it. I recently got the above codes and after researching it I decided to take apart the air injection valves, and also the motor to see what was going on.
Luckily these parts are very easy to access on our cars. Take the engine cover and front plastic cover off. The two valve are on either side of the cylinder head, and the pump will be on the left hand side, front of the engine bay.
I ordered two new valves, and ended up just cleaning out my pump.
Here are the Part Numbers:
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570138100
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570238050
This is exactly what happened: [URL] ....
Here is what both of my valves looked like:
Here is what the air pump looked like:
Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
What the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
We have an 04 v8 phaeton. Hubby just changed timing belt with the blauparts top kit. He rented their tools. When he went to attach the bar it didnt line up. He finally got it all back together and it runs fine. The vag com scares me, though.
Those codes say...
- 16405 bank 2 camshaft a (intake) p0021-002 retard setpoint not reached (over advanced) mil
on and the other
- 16395 Bank 1 p0011-002 retard setpoint not reached over advanced mil on.
He just ran the scan today and we are leaving on a 1500 mile trip tomorrow. He says he knows it lined up right...im doubting it. We have driven it about 500 miles since he changed it...no problem. I don't want to risk damaging something. Would you take it on a trip with that code?
The vehicle is a 2004 Jetta MK4 1.8t.
Last thing I had replaced about 2 months ago was the Solenoid valve, the MAF and Solenoid hose. Car ran fine for about a month, and bam...engine light came back on, along with the ASR light. At first it was saying "cat converter" so I researched that, and what a surprise, it spoke about being a $1k piece to replace. NOTHING HAS BEEN CHEAP ON THIS CAR, and I'm losing my mind.
The latest adventure happened today coming back from the gym. Car started jerking (which has been normal since every now and then the ASR light will come on, which I'm told is the traction control light. Causing the car to jerk. Simple fix is pulling over, shutting the car off, and turning it back on. That always clears it, and then I'm back on the road.) but instantly it lost power. It wont shift, but the traction control light didn't come on. I plugged my OBD2 tool up, and came back with these fault codes:
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0753: Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P2637: Torque Management Feedback Signal A
I'm going to go to these guys tomorrow, but I would just like to get an educated guess on what might be going on, so I don't look like a lost dog while they're figuring out what to do next. These guys seem knowledgeable, but they're missing something since I've been in and out of their shop several times and still getting my traction control light on at random times, and now all 3 of these codes.
Does that Solenoid code have anything to do with the Solenoid valve they put in? I was told that cleaning the throttle body and the cat converter might work. Would those be cheaper options to consider, and see if that works?
I also read that unplugging the alternator and plugging it back in, then cleaning the male and female with electrical cleaner might work. I was told about a month ago that my battery barely passed. Could this be causing any of my issues? I also did a log while I was driving, but all that's showing up is a google map document.
I was driving home. Problems started after pulling away from a 4-way stop. Truck started lunging almost like I was running out of fuel. Then I got a "Transmission Malfunction" in the in dash display. Followed by limp mode. I checked the Faults when I got home. I have the following:
P0720 - Powertrain - Output speed sensor Circuit
P2106 - Powertrain - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power (From what I understand this is associated with limp mode. Not a root of the problem)
P0713 - Powertrain - Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor Circuit High Input
P0722 - Powertrain - Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
The vehicle has around 192,000 mi. Replaced cam phasers in upper engine roughly 1000 miles ago and replaced all the bearings in the rear differential roughly 100 mi ago. I haven't messed with anything on the transmission. Checked fluid level and color of transmission fluid.
The car was misfiring and the check engine light codes were all sensor coils were bad. Lexus told me that it was coil6 bad and they fixed it. I should have had no problems, I got a whole 2 miles and I misfired and engine light back on. I drove for a while and light went off and then misfired again. Before I bring it back in I was looking for some insight. I can't understand how it wasn't fixed right the first time but I don't want to go back and get a few thousand bill either. Could fixing one coil cause another to go bad.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
I have a customer with a 2011 that has a ticking noise that developed into a engine miss with no fault codes. His mileage has dropped from 18 mpg to 14.5 . Heard the noise more pronounced in the left bank. Tonight I disassemble the engine and found the rocker arms by the pivot ball are showing signs of recent wear looks as if they had a die grinder taken to them. The rockers spear loose? The truck has over 100k on it.
View 6 RepliesIt all started after I refueled at Mobil after a rainstorm a month ago. Could be coincidence, but right after that the car started jerking wildly and making a howling wind noise from the front. Thought it was the transmission. Brought to Lexus dealership, they told me nothing was wrong as I had low mileage on the car. There are NO Check Engine lights on the dashboard. Car "quieted down" after that, but the noise remains EXCEPT at high speed when it's quiet.
In addition to that, the jerking / misfiring continues at stops, reversing, and slower speeds on occasion only.
I tried Techron FI cleaner, but it has not made a difference. Filled up several times since then.
What's wrong?