Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Dropped Out Captive Nut
Jul 31, 2011
I was replacing my air filter the other day and pressed a bit too hard on the 10mm bolt, forcing the captive nut on the other side to drop out of its pressing and to be lost forever.
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I have GX470 2007 (100k miles) and last weekend I noticed that I drove 60 miles (on streets) and gas needle was down to 1/2 of tank. When I went to gas station to fill up, I was able to get only 5 gallons and tank was full. I drove another 45 miles (on the highway), and needle already was down to 3/4 of tank. I did not have this in the past. I was getting 12-14 miles / gallon on the street and 20 - 21 miles / gallon on the high way.
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My 2004 RX330 which has gone many years without a problem suddenly has instrument panel gremlins.
I started the car a couple of days ago (it had rained during the day), and the airbag light did not turn off. Then the TPMS warning light came on, the water temperature gauge dropped to zero. The AC controls stopped responding. Since I needed to get home, and the car seemed otherwise fine, I drove home, after a few minutes the transmission "D" drive light went blank and the instrument back-light went to full brightness.
A few minutes later, all the warning lights went off and the back-light went back to normal. The AC controls still seemed to be off. A few minutes later the airbag warning light came back on, followed by the TPMS light and the back-light went to full brightness again. This cycle kept happening all the way home.
The next morning, hoping the problem had been some errant water getting into something, I started the car, opened the driver's door to get something and got back into the car, closing the door. The light showing the door was open stayed on. I put the car into reverse, the doors did not automatically lock as they usually do. I turned off the engine and restarted it, most of the other lights were off, the doors would lock; airbag & TPMS light came back on.
It has stayed that way, except I also get the A/T temperature warning light coming on periodically, and after some cycle it goes off.
I borrowed a car code reader, it does not seem to show any error codes. In reading some other postings it has been suggested that the Brake light switch is the cause, but the brake lights come on/off without any problem.
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I don't know if this is a minor issue or if it may be a actual problem. But basically I was showing the engine bay to a friend, and being the genius he is, he unclipped one of the clips that covers the top of the radiators and dropped it accidentally into the engine bay . Being my first car I really don't know if this will affect my car somehow if it gets into the wrong valve or what not.
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The temperature has dropped to low single digits.
My RC F tire inflation has dropped to 26 -27 lbs. due to the extreme cold, after it has been outside for a while.
After driving for a while the tires heat up and the pressure goes up, returning to normal range.
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I bought my ES in January of this year, and almost from the get go I've had an intermittent problem with a squeak in the dash... I really think this is a cool weather issue because last weekend it was in the mid 70;s here and not a single noise... this morning temps dropped into the upper 40's and there was that damn squeak again...
It's located right over the speedometer about 2 to 3 inches in from the edge ( just beyond my grandson's right hand in the pic below... Took it to the dealer a week or two back but because it wasn't making any noise, they told me there was no point in leaving it... but this morning they said bring it buy and we'll put you in a loaner....
I've heard of this being an issue on some IS models but not on any ES models... anyway according to what I've read the fix was to remove the screws on the bottom side of the dash 'hump" and then insert some felt in there... hope this works, because even though it's just a squeak and nothing mechanical.
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I just notice this behavior of my car recently (09 GS350 AWD). It usually happen in the morning when the engine still cold (Ohio winter weather 22-35 degrees in the morning). I noticed that when I let go of the gas paddle, my rpm needle dropped to about 1000 rpm and then immediately bounce back up. Is this normal??? I haven't notice this behavior after the engine get warm up. I was driving in normal mode.
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On the way home this evening the car just dropped revs and stalled. I pulled to the side of the road and tried to restart the car. The car started, idle for a second, then bogged and stalled again. I am leaning towards my MAF and the same thing occurs every time I try to start it. Only mods are flapper and APR 93oct tune.
I do have a drop in and have a feeling I screwed my MAF w/ the oiled filter.
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I have an 05 Prius that I bought used. It has 59K miles on it. Recently I took it to the dealer for an oil change. They told me it didn't need an oil change, but did need an air filter. Afterwards, the mileage dropped from about 47 around town to about 42. Had the oil changed a week later, and the mileage is now about 40 around town. The dipstick when cold shows a little above the full mark.
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So I met my wife after work. I was killing some time with my son. We drove across the street, then to a neighboring shopping center. I changed the display to see the more accurate instant MPG and noticed my battery was at 2 bars. This is the first time that's happened, that I'm aware of. During normal operation, it stays at 2 bars above the halfway mark, or above.
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We picked up our 2009 prius about a month ago from a local dealer. At the time it was getting about 52 miles per gallon. Since then, we have driven about 1000 miles and now we are getting only about 41 miles per gallon. Are we doing something wrong that made the MPG drop over 10 miles per gallon.
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My 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 l the oil pressure dropped all the way down i was in a drive thru and it was clattering really bad so i pulled into the parking lot and shut it down pulled the stick plenty of oil i re started about 30 minutes later and it pumped oil pressure. So I started on my way home the gauge would go to normal and when I would touch the brakes and let off the gas it would drop and the oil light would come on and the engine would start rattling and would have no power, I would pull over and do it over again and finally i just called a tow truck.
So I changed the oil new motorcraft filter and 5/30 motor oil , it started up made all kind of noise but i got oil pressure and quieted down i went to drive it and as soon as it started to roll the pressure dropped and the oil light came on and it started to rattle again. Whats happening is the pump going out ? can it be replaced with out pulling the engine? the truck has 200,000 miles on it
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I have noticed a significant (15 to 20%) drop-off in mpg in the last 6 months or so. My 2006 prius at 95,000 miles is just short of the warranty on the battery pack. I brought it into the dealership and they ran the routine computer diagnostics and said everything looks good. I fully expected them to tell me that the performance on the battery pack had fallen off, so I was a bit put out. The guy actually got a bit defensive with me when I asked him some further questions about what the criteria are for determining whether the battery back was performing as it is supposed to in order to get the maximum MPGs.
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I recently got my 2007 Prius back from the body shop after a 13k repair following a crash that crumpled my front end. The car seemed to be doing fine, until a long, steep climb had the battery drop to one bar, speed dropping to 40 despite a floored accelerator, and a red triangle that appeared briefly before disappearing just as we completed the climb. It's the dropping speed despite a floored accelerator and the warning light that have me worried.
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Today I went to the national car test (passed. but), when the car has been returned to me by the employee of national car test center I noticed one bar on the SOC. This happened for the first time.
Additional notes:
1) recently (about 4 weeks ago) I had to temporarily replace for second hand (20 bucks) 12v small auxiliary battery.
2) recently (withing last four weeks) I noticed high temperature in the boot compartment, I tried to investigate and the ducting leading from the HV battery was really hot, which means that my battery was really hot too.
I tried to explain this to myself that this might be due to HV operating at higher levels due to unknown state of the replaced 12v small aux battery (second hand product).
3) Today I noticed that technician at the test center used some spring assisted bar to press the brake on the car while he tested the car, I recon that maybe he have had powered off the car while doing so, is it possible that this might have contributed to the dropped SOC ?- it's just my guess.
I'm thinking to replace 12v aux battery to brand new battery and then test the operation of the fan and whether the temperature still rise. - is it good idea? Or should I just seek for the testing tool to determine the status of each of the modules?
If so, which testing device can handle this task? I heard from this forum about ELM obd bluetooth adapter. I use android device, would this be okay or should I look for another device perhaps scangauge?
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I used to get 55-58 MPG when my commute was 65 miles one way, 85% freeway. But these days I noticed that when AC runs hard and trips typically 16 miles, 40 MPH, mpg dropped to 42-45. That worried me a little bit.
Driving style: conservative. I start off normally, but I use N gear as soon as passing speed limit. (this factor alone should enhance mpg by 10 I guess. I used this technique on my 98' Lexus LS400, 4 Ltr V8 engine, once got 38 mpg on freeway, while the sticker says 18/25). This is the main reason I worry that something is wrong with my prius.
Typical range: 16 miles, all local.
Tire pressure: 40 psi
AC runs hard, outside temp 90 degrees, I set temp to 72 inside. (I guess this is the main reason for mpg drop, but I don't think it should drop that much)
I recently changed oil and trans oil.
My battery is a little bit weak, but no warning light. If I forget to turn off head lights, it needs jump in 10 minutes.
Mileage is 143K, 2004 model.
Water pump changed by Toyota free of charge.
Any clue? or it sounds normal and I don't need to worry about it?
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Today the flow rate of the air out of the vents on my Prius has noticeably dropped.
It makes no different which vents I select (front, feet, or windscreen).
The blower seems fine - it's still making its normal noise.
The air still blows out nice and cold, there just isn't much of it coming out, even on full blast.
I've pulled the cabin air filter and checked it's not clogged, so it seems like there must be a blockage downstream of the blower.
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Recently (5 weeks ago), my 2004 Jetta misfired, which caused the car to shake very noticeably, especially at lower speeds or while idling. The misfire was accompanied by the smell of fuel on the driver side and triggered the check engine light to flash. I took it to the shop (a VW dealer). They ran diagnostics, found it signaled a misfire (but no other major issues/sensors) and told me it was due to the spark plugs/wires. I was dubious, as they were not too old, but I allowed them to replace them anyway, as they assured me this would fix the problem.
Just this week, however, another misfire occurred, also accompanied by the smell of fuel and shaking. This time, the check engine light remained on (constant) for 2 days, and on the third day, it was off. I brought it back to the same shop to try to figure out the real cause of the misfire, which obviously was not the previous spark plugs. My city gas mileage has also decreased over the past month - down to about 20-21 mpg from 23-24. What could be causing such a reoccurring misfire without signaling an issue with a sensor or other part?
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I had the cruise control set on the speed limit going up a hill. Half way up, the cruise control dropped as did my speed from 70 to 56. There were no warning lights but the battery meter was in the one bar pink range. I managed to continue up the hill at 56 mph by flooring the accelerator. When I got to the top and started to regenerate power to the battery, I regained power and speed. I am discussing a 2008 Prius with 89k miles. What the issue may be ( like battery pack declining efficiency)?
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I have a '04 Ford Mustang Convertible, V6 engine, and today on the way home it really scared me. I was stuck in traffic for an hour and a half, moving a few feet at a time, when all of the sudden, about 40 minutes into it, the RPM's dropped almost to the point of cutting off. This happened a total of 3 times until I finally got out of traffic. The last time it happened, I threw my hands up and said "I am going to see what it does." The previous 2 times I had stepped on the gas, but this time I did not, and it got to the point to almost cutting off, then caught itself and throttled back up.
Now, it was 90 degrees in Charlotte today and the AC was on. I was told this might be the issue. I have never had this happen before, but then again I don't live in Charlotte and this was something that has only happened this once in the whole year I have owned it. I thought maybe I was low on fuel, but the gage did not register as low, and no fuel light came on. I am hoping it was just the AC compressor driving the RPM's low...
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Same brush is in the cylinder. I lost a cleaning brush in the cylinder head and cant get it out. Im sick to my stomach. I had a small magenta but it wasn't strong enough to get it and any stronger wont fir thru the cylinder taper. Any suggestions besides taking it to a mechanic and pulling the head. Hers is a pic ......
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