Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Coolant Leak - Small Amount Of Red Fluid Leaked Out Of Radiator
Mar 9, 2010
I have a 04' RX 330 with 92k. It has small radiator leak. If you are standing in front of the car and look below the fan on the left side of the radiator you can see a small amount of red fluid that has leaked out of the radiator. However, the leak isn't big enough that I ever have to add coolant I just top it off when I get the oil changed. Also it doesn't puddle on the pavement when parked.
The only thing I really notice is that my windows tend fog abit easier now so I assuming the moisture must be making its way into the ventalation somehow. My mechanic said its about a $700 repair. My question should I fix it and is $700 reasonable. Also I've never had the timing belt replaced would it make since do have this done at the same time as the radiator. How long will it take before it becomes a major problem instead of a minor annoyance?
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I purchased this vehicle this week.69k miles..driving 25 miles to my home the temp. control beeped...near my home...my son added near 1 gal of anti freeze....that night there seemed to be a small amount of leakage under the radiator (but none since that date 11/24/14 or 2 + days ago ).. the coolant level in the radiator appeared down 1 inch on one check. On the last check after running and then off...the radiator level was up to the top and the reservoir level was at 1 inch. My son thought there might be a fine/mist spraying in the area near the left lower side of the radiator..since that time with the motor running I placed a piece of file folder down near where he thought there was a mist and saw none on the folder... this car was owed my an elderly person and likely was not driven often of late.
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So i noticed some red fluid on the garage floor where the gx parks. I narrowed it down to radiator fluid. Lower side drivers side radiator has some of this red in the corner. I don't see anything else leaking and the red drops are small. Is there something on that side that might be causing this besides radiator? A line that i cant see or noticed yet?
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Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
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Changing my oil today, been awhile since I had the hood open for an inspection a year maybe about 5 - 6K miles
It's been about 2 years since the prior owner had it in for a service, I recall they had it in right before we purchased it in August 2008
I live in Miami Beach where it's HOT
I noticed the inverter coolant level is no longer at full It's hard to see where it's at, actually
It's not below low, and it seems to be at least up to the bottom of the double seam that wraps around the tank, but I can't see where it levels off behind the seam
Should I be concerned enough to take it in to the dealer and pay them to hunt around until they find a small leak, or is it normal to lose a small amount of coolant over the course of a couple years
Should I just buy their high priced Toyota Super Long Life Coolant and top off the extra 1/8-1/4" or so until it's at FULL?
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I just replaced my front rotors and brake pads this afternoon. I took it for a test run around the block and had allot of smoke come off the rotor on drivers side. I concluded that it had seized, and replaced it with a new rotor. I then test drove it a good two miles to fill the girl up with gas, when I got home I saw that my passenger side rotor had a faint amount of smoke. Granted I did a sloppy job and there was brake fluid everywhere. With all that being said, when I drove her to get gas it did not pull to the right, jerk or pulse. I was able to stop on a dime, I guess I want to know if this small amount of smoke is just the new pads adjusting to the new rotor?
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My R is weeping a small amount of transmission fluid from where the front right axle mates up with the transmission. It's not a lot. If I leave my car parked for a few days I've only got a few drops on the garage floor.
I've talked to a few buddies and they've said everything from "you drive your car too hard and blew out a seal" (which I don't) to "well you don't drive your car for 5 months of the year, so the seal just dried up" (which could be true). I had VW check it out a few weeks ago, but like an idiot I cleaned it up before I brought it in, thinking that it would be weeping by the time I got there. No such luck however; so they checked the level of the fluid, declared it good, and told me to come back when/if it started again. Car drives fine, and there's no notchyness in the shift feel or anything like that.
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So I was going to change the oil today and noticed that there was coolant that leaked all over the engine. I don't know where it came but I washed it off (should have snapped a pic!), so today I will try to drive around a bit and pop the hood again to see where it is coming from.
I'm guessing it leaked from one of the hoses or something. I recently got everything changed (timing belt, water pump, new radiator) about 3k miles ago or so.
I took her offroading earlier in the week two days in a row as well and went through some rough terrain in 90+ degree heat.
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I have a 2007 F350 with 140,000 miles. I just received my first oil analysis from Blackstone and it shows a small amount of coolant in the oil (296ppm Potassium, 30ppm Sodium). Iron at 47ppm and Lead at 12ppm are elevated as well. This is at the end of a 5000 mile oil change.
I have no oil analysis history to say if this has been occurring for any length of time, and have no runnability issues. Oil/coolant temp delta is 8-10F unless towing, and I have seen no coolant loss since replacing the degas bottle a couple of months ago.
Where to look first. It seems most oil/coolant encounters result in the oil going into the coolant, not the other way around. I haven't done an analysis, but have not seen any oil residue in the degas bottle.
BTW, no coolant shows up on the dipstick either, so it is a small leak at best.
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I had my LS at the dealer this morning getting the fuel regulator recall and they noticed that my radiator had a very small leak at the nipple where the overflow hose is connected. From what I've read, this is a very common issue that I probably caused by leaning on the fitting at some point while working on the car.
I'm no stranger to DIY and am willing to take this on. I'm looking at replacements online and I see two brass fittings at the bottom. Are those for transmission cooler lines? If so, wouldn't replacing the radiator cause the loss of some transmission fluid?
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My 2010 LX with approx 140K miles has a very small leak in the washer fluid system somewhere. (We think). Every 1500 miles or so I get the "Low washer fluid level" warning sign. Never got it in 6 years, but now it's every 1500 miles. Dealer could not find leak. (Maybe it leaks to slowly?) I hardly use the washer fluid, but it's annoying to override this message every time I start the car.
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Today, the air conditioning stopped working in my 2003 Elantra. Just stopped blowing cold air. Then the engine thermometer kept on climbing. When I pulled over home, I lifted the hood and heard a lot of bubbling and gurgling sounds, and coolant fluid leaked out underneath the car.
What could be the cause of this? When I let the car stay for a while, the AC did kick back on, but only for a few moments and the thermometer kept on climbing again until I turned the car off. The fan is blowing, I can hear it, but it is obviously not cooling the engine off appropriately.
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Just wondering if there's been any incident where the coolant in the SC430 is leaked into the gearbox at the radiator. I mean, these cars do have the transmission fluid running through the radiator, right? I've read that this occurs a lot on LS430 and many Mercedes models.
Would it be a good preventive measure to replace the radiator anyway? Or, is it ok to wait till there're signs of such leakage (if it doesn't usually begin as a major leak)?
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My 2004 just developed a coolant leak. The past couple times I've moved the car, there's been a small pink puddle under where the engine was. The leak seems to be coming from a weep hole positioned between the two bolts of the lower engine mount. The hole is circled in red in both pics.
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We suspect that we do indeed have a small leak in the radiator. If we keep the fluid to the full mark, can we drive it without concern. We do realize that is will have to be replace but we are hoping to drive it for a while longer.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 177K. I'm planning on getting a new car in a few months. The radiator has a small leak at the top. Is a product such as Barr's stop leak a viable solution to get me through a few months or will it cause problems?
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So about 2 yes ago I had a cracked intake manifold and had it replaced..shortly after had low egr flow codes that had me replace every sensor involved on top and three that ford found for me. And fixed...my 01 f150 5.4 super crew has been my best friend last 165k of its 246. So it has a small leak in radiator. Didn't think that would do anything for a bit. Well after almost overheating a few times I pulled up to a job and water was pouring out the top back passenger side....blah blah blah saving 1400 this time I pulled everything to the head. Took off intake put back together torqued to 20lbs.
Still mix fires at low idle and low rpms.gets worse longer I sit at light have redone plugs switched coil pack at the misfire location..still missing. the round black sensor before the egr out of the intake has good vac in but limited to egr. Don't think this is right...has lean codes both banks....but I also had a PVC not in and the exhaust outflow sensor had a hose knocked off again...misfiring...checking hoses nothing obvious... Perhaps the spare coil is no good now....keep one two handy for wet locations... Did I not do intake right...and I did use rtv
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Bought an 07 ES350 from a reputable dealer in March 2013. Had 65k miles when i got it. Had it about 6 wks and 2400 miles and noticed some reddish leaks under the engine. Thought it was trans fluid. I was driving to the dealership to get it fixed - when i noticed the temp guage up near the red zone and the heater (was 39 degrees F out) was blowing cold air. I started to get in the right lane - when all of the lights on the dash lit up - including the "check engine" light. I was able to get over - i think the car actually stalled.
Anyway - after a tow to the dealer - it was the water pump had leaked out "all" of my coolant. At 67k miles having a water pump fail on a Lexus? Did i do permanent damage to the engine?
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A bit over a week ago, I posted about a major coolant "spew" in my shed.
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I have an issue with my 2004 GLS 3.5 L w/ 68000 miles. After the SUV warms up for a few minutes I can hear a whine or rattle on the passenger side. I noticed a little power steering fluid leaked out the top of the reservoir (a few little bubbles in the oil). Then reading on the HMA website it says the filter in the reservoir can get clogged and restrict the flow. I took the reservoir off and flushed it out then replaced with new oil.
Unfortunately this did not fix the issue the noise is still there. It's most prevalent when you turn but the noise also picks up a little when you hit the gas. I have checked for hose leaks but cannot find one. My next step is to have the steering pump changed out. While the mechanics in there I am going to have him check the hoses/pulleys really close and look around for another leaks anywhere. Noise is annoying but the steering works fine.
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I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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