Lexus RX 2004-09 :: CEL Appeared When Merging On Highway - Code P2195
Aug 6, 2014
Last week I was on a dive trip and my RX remained parked outside for a week. As I was returning home and I was merging on the highway my CEL appeared; I used my scanner and the code was p2195, which I cleared. My RX was driven for about 5 minutes before merging onto the highway.
On my way home I needed to stop for gas, I filled up and them merged onto the highway and the CEL came on again. I used the scanner and the same code p2195- which I cleared.
I completed my drive home, and have only been doing short city driving since then an no CEL's.
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I've been getting these 2 codes (P0113 / P0113P <--?) for a few months now. I know what P0113 means but I've never heard of P0113 P?
Ive cleaned the MAF w/ CRC MAF cleaner. Ive swapped out MAFs and I still get the code every week or so. I ordered a new gas cap & gasket but it seems to tighten fine so I dont know.
Is there anything else I can check?
The GX idles fine, even with the CEL light on. No weird noises or anything else wrong that I can see / hear / feel other than the still 11-12 MPG I'm getting.
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As we know, flashing dash lights are a part of owning a Volkswagen. Even moreso a modded Volkswagen. Last night I was treated to my first CEL during 3rd gear pull merging onto the highway. At 4200 RPM, the car cut timing and throttle ferociously and the CEL came on and flashed for about 10 seconds. The road was rough so I anticipated that it was the car registering a knock and Bronson said it could've been that. I pulled over, checked everything I could visually at 1:00 AM and it all seemed fine. Car accelerated and boosted well from then on, on the way home.
This morning I got in for the drive to work and noticed within 2-3 miles that the car was idling strangely. Not long after, the CEL came on. It would surge from 1,000 to 1,300 RPM randomly. I took it back home to pick up my VCDS and my laptop and scanned the following codes:
Code:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
Since then I have checked:
- Intake hoses/clamps
- Intercooler hoses/clamps
- Diverter valve hoses/clamps
- Throttle body pipe/clamps
- PCV hoses (The PCV on the valve cover was replaced by the BFI catch can. It has been on the car for over 6,000 miles with no issues, and all of the fittings are tight.)
- Boost tap hoses/clamps
I reset the codes and drove it to work and all was well, but I'm staying out of boost until I find out what the problem is. The car has stock plugs, stock coils and stock DV and only 7,800 miles.
Thread here with the full VCDS scan: [URL] ....
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2006 GX470 57000 miles loaded. I purchased this new and I was wondering if anyone on here can give me a bit of input on what you may think is going on.
My truck when merging onto a high speed roadway my truck doesn't seem to want to shift into the next gear. Almost like if it was a manual I would have to shift it. It really whines out before it shifts.
Also My husband is hearing a humming/vibration from the rear when we are doing about 65 steady I've already had my tires removed and checked to see if I may have thrown a weight or a broken belt but everything is good. I have Michelins on the truck and they are about 2 yrs old. No damage on the tires I have them rotated every 5000 miles.
I had the truck in for service and told them about this. The Lexus service rep told me his mechanic told him he found nothing. I asked them to check again and he said the mechanic would take it home to drive it at a speed that was needed. Again I was told nothing was found. Got the truck back from the seat repair don't even think the truck was taken home.
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I picked up a 2015 gs350 f sport in atomic silver / black. I'm excited to pull out of the parking lot and get on the road! Yeah, not so much. As I take a turn onto the road I notice it's very sluggish, like starting off in third gear sluggish. I eventually get up to speed and wander if the floor mat is stuck under the pedal or something, whatever. anything but the car is broken.
I eventually get up to speed. Everything is fine. I don't accelerate hard because the the car only has 12 miles on it. Otherwise it drives like it should. Off the freeway and at a stoplight with an incline. Start to go, same thing. I pull over, turn the ignition off and back on. Car is fine.
So later that night (43 miles on the ODO) CEL and Trac off lights up. Car will not get up over third gear. Make it another 2 miles home and park it. I'm pretty distraught.
Took it to the dealership, don't know what they are but 2 fault codes came up. One for a shift solenoid and another having to do with the torque converter. Under 100 miles on the ODO!
So I'm with a red ES loaner car. Never seen it on a brand new car.
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2004 Prius, 149,000 miles. Driving on a highway when suddenly it felt like a headwind was bearing down on me, and a minute later, the red triangle of death and all the other lights came on. Did not totally lose power. Pulled to the shoulder and while waiting for the tow truck, started and turned the car off several times.
After the first few times, the red triangle did not light up, but the check engine icon remained on. The tow truck driver had a very difficult time getting the car into neutral to pull onto the flatbed, and then when he took the car off the truck to park it at the dealership, he said it shifted "hard" into drive.
I don't have a code since I don't own a reader. What this might be? I really, really hope it's not the traction battery needing replacement. I have no training to replace single cells.
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Bunch of warning lights appeared and the dealer said it's code P0a80 and they recommend replacing the battery. I'd like to try to fix this myself and would like to hear your thoughts...
Plan is to check the traction battery for corrosion and use a voltmeter to test the cells and replace if needed. Prius 2004, 158,000.
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I'm getting codes P0441, P0446, P0456, P0420 and P0430.
My fuel consumption in town is around 12 mpg, so a bit higher than what others report. The cats were removed because they were in bad condition. I suspect excess fuel was sent to the cats. That would also explain the bad mpg ?
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2007 camry xle 4 cylinder engine, 2.4 liter I'm getting a P2195 code, which is the A/F sensor B1 S1. I have a few questions:
1. Any diagram of the location?
2. I've been trying to figure out the correct part number, so I can search for a replacement. I've found 4 or 5 different numbers already. What is the correct part number?
3. Should I only by the OEM part? Or do the aftermarket brands like Denso work?
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I jumped in my vehicle this morning and the check engine light and VSC light suddenly appeared on. I have a 2006 RX 330. Two weeks ago I had new brakes/rotors put on the front and new rotors on back.
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I have a 2006 Ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder that is have emissions problems the code the tech gave me was P2195 an I bought the o2 sensor just where it is, and the auto stores didn't have a manual for the year of my truck.
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Just the other day my A/C had started to blow hot air, so I looked online and was told to try and re-charge it by a few people so I went and bought a can of that r-134a recharge and as it was on the low port the gauge was not reading like any of the guides I saw, as it did not stay at just one # it would go from 25 then back up to 40+ then slowly back down and just kept going up and down, I am assuming as the compressor was kicking on.
So I did not charge it at all because the PSI said to be in my car at the temp was 45 and if it was doing this but going 25-40 and back I did not want to over fill it.
So then this morning after doing that last night my engine light comes on, but I was told that the a/c will not effect this but I had it checked and I got an error code (P2195) "lack of heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1 H02S11 switch sensor indicates lean" with a few causes that may be the reason.
Should I go ahead and charge the a/c? will this cel code have anything to do with the a/c? and also why was the gauge changing like that and not at one steady number? Could it be because the car is running hot and maybe I need to check the anti freeze/coolant?
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Any resource that I can use to find the part number of the O2 sensor on my wife's 03 v6 Camry.
I have a check engine light, scanned by code scanner to reveal P2195. This OBD code is supposedly sensor 1, bank 1 "stuck lean" which is the upper O2 sensor on the left side of the engine (closest to radiator with transverse mounting).
So it should be easy to change if this is the issue but I'm having a hell of a time finding the right part number. Too many choices.
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I have a p2195 trouble code with my 2007 Toyota Sienna CE. This is O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1. I am assuming I'll need to replace this sensor. It's a little confusing but if I am reading my Haynes manual correctly, the repair goes as follows:
The sensor for 2007 and later models will be in the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. To remove it, it's necessary to remove the passenger seat, disconnect and snake the pigtail through the grommet in the car floor. Then, disconnect the O2 sensor from underneath the van and replace.
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Check tire pressure light appeared today while driving on the highway today. checked all pressure but they all read fine. what could be wrong? Is there something I am not getting here ?
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Another Check Engine Light, P0138 and P2195.
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2007 GS450h Lexus owner, and have got a few error codes appearing on her They are as follows:
Quote:
P0031 - Powertrain
HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2195 - Powertrain
O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank1 Sensor1
P2238 - Powertrain
2) O2 Sensor Positive Current Control Circuit
Low bank1 Sensor1
P0138 - Powertrain
O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
Am I right in saying, these are all just a dodgy bank 1 sensor 1 (engine bay) and possible sensor 2? Is replacing them myself feasible?
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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I am a technician and my boss owns a couple of prius taxis.
One of them had the code to replace hybrid battery pack. After checking all the cells and they were all in spec the code came back every single day so he bought a new hybrid battery pack. After installing the new battery pack The car won't go into ready mode with the message check hybrid system.
The code that comes up is P0A0D about the service safety plug. It is plugged in properly pushed all the way to the right and so on. The 120 amp fuse inside of it is good I have tried everything I can think of.We had another 2010 in the shop I tried changing the service safety plug, engine ecu, hv ecu, all to no avail with the same problem.
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I just bought a used 2008 Prius. I had my Prius inspected after buying it, and the error code C1378 appeared, which I have discerned refers to the Skid Control ECU.
There is apparently a recall for this part in 2010-2014 models, however as a 2008 I don't think I apply.
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Had my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.
My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.
Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.
Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.
The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.
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