Lexus RX 2004-09 :: AC On RX330 Works Intermittently / Refrigerant Level Is Fine
Jun 24, 2011
The AC on our '04 RX330 has started acting up. Refrigerant level is fine. When the system works it's ice cold. It'll run more often than not, but occasionally the AC compressor just won't kick on. I searched the forum and found issues in other toyotas and lexus models with the magnetic clutch relay but for the life of me I can't find where that is on the RX. I also saw reference to an AC "servo" in another thread. What controls the AC compressor and what to check?
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I have a 2006 RX 330 with 116,000 miles. I noticed that i had a leak and the power steering oil level was low. I went under the car and looks like the power steering hose is leaking. The dealer wants $352 for hose and $325 for labor. I called auto parts stores and they say its a dealer item only. Someone told me I could have a hose company rebuild it for a lot less.
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So either these trucks have a super small window wash reservoir or there is something wrong with my truck. The window washer works just fine and then stops. The washer motor is still working but nothing coming out. I fill it up to the top again and suddenly it works just fine. The thing is that when I fill it up it only takes between 1 and 2 quarts of water. I'd imagine the recover probably holds close to a gallon so not sure why mine quits working and then is full after 1 to 2 quarts of water is added. Perhaps the pickup tube in mine is bent or something? No light or message on the dash...it just stops.
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I just purchased the car a few weeks ago. Horn doesn't work till I press about a dozen times and "get lucky".. Once it hits once I can usually beep about 4 times before losing it. I checked the fuse, looks fine. Haven't found the relay yet.
I suspect it is something in the switching/contacts/ground in the steering column. What I may need to replace in steering column?
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2002 1500 4WD 126K miles. A/C not working, compressor does not engage when A/C is switched on. Is there an interlock if the refrigerant level is too low to keep the compressor from engaging? Original owner, A/C has never been recharged. Is recharging my best first step.
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Since then I have added some refrigerant, changed the Magnetic Clutch Relay. Fan kicks on only for a few seconds and then goes off. Pressure shows that it might be a little high on refrigerant. Could this be so that it would not allow the fan to turn on and stay on. when I let some refrigerant out it seems that it will kick on and stay on. I have not let any more out because to me this really does not make sense to me, hence why I am asking some more questions.
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I have a 2004 that I purchased in Jan '05 with just over 10K miles on it, after taking out a large deer with my previous Prius (90k miles on that one). I'm now at 271k and my first non-maintenance repair issue has occurred. My A/C was working fine one day, then nothing the next. Hot air, and nothing else. Had my regular service place (not dealer) check it during my regular oil change. Found the refrigerant was out, and did a little digging. They suspected a bad compressor, and referred me to the dealer. Upon recommendation from a friend, had another non-dealer check it the next day ( Wow, no Freon, and we can't locate the leak!). So I bit the bullet and took it to the dealer.
Not sure I want to put that much into fixing the a/c in a car this old/this many miles. I'm pretty handy with fixing things, but not this. And not a lot of non-dealer options in my area who will work on hybrids.
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Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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A couple weeks ago my AC started to blow just hot air. I went to Autozone, picked up a can of AC Pro, emptied the can without overcharging the line, it ran great for 3 days, then it shut off. I thought all the freon leaked out but the next day the AC system came back on. Now it sometimes comes on and off.
I took it to my mechanic. When I first told him the issue, he came back telling me that the AC system was fine. I drove home and as I was about a few miles from my house the AC stopped working. The mechanic said they did see it leaking but to come back a few days once the dye marks the problematic area.
Should I have not used AC Pro? I did not get any error codes when I ran the AC diagnostic. Turning on/off the AC manually does not seem to work. Changing from recirculation to outside air does change much. Revving the engine does not produce cooler air.
I'm not an expert, could there be bubbles in the line causing this behavior? I'm taking my car back in tomorrow morning. I'm hoping the AC stays off so my mechanic can troubleshoot this issue. Sounds like maybe the AC is having a hard time staying on? Bad sensor?
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On my 2007 SC 430 I have a passenger headlight that appears to have a mind of its own. It works intermittently. I know that it is programmed to go off when the car is in park, but that is not what I'm talking about. When I start the car after dark both sides will be on but at some point the passenger side will go out, not all the time, but quite often. I have checked for loos wires but have not found any.
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2006 Prius with 58,000 miles. Drive in San Diego and Palm Springs. Earlier this year, the A/C would just cut off, maybe about once a week. The control panel indicated the A/C should be on, but absolutely no function. Drive around for 20 minutes, and all of a sudden, it would come on and work perfectly. It is starting to happen on a daily basis now...sometimes it won't work from start, other times it just cuts out while driving. I can park the car and shut the car off with the A/C working, then come back 30 minutes, and no A/C. It doesn't seem to matter which setting is selected. The control panel accepts all commands, but no function changes when the A/C has shut itself off. Loose connection somewhere? It works about 90% of the time, and blows very cold. When it shuts itself off, no air passes through the vents at all.
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I have a 2005 RX 330 with about 100k on it. The A/C does not keep the cabin cool. If you turn the fan up it will keep it cooler. I took it back to the dealer and they say there is nothing wrong with it. They did recharge it but it did nothing. You have to keep the fan turned up to just stay comfortable. I have had service loaners and I have to keep turning the temp up or it gets too cold.
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I have a 2006 RX330 AWD. I took it to get inspected and was told I had a bad O2 Sensor.
Are they easy to replace? What should the average cost be? I was also looking for the part number. I was told that "Bank 2 Sensor 1" failed. I was looking for the part but I am not sure I found the correct part.
I was also told that the front inner and outer Tie Rod needs replaced along with both rear wheel bearings. I found the parts for the tie rod but not sure about the rear wheel bearings. Wondering if i need to get just the wheel bearing or if i need the wheel bearing and hub assembly also.
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It seems like my wife's 2006 RX330 does not get as cold as it used to. At times, it will even blow warm and humid air, even though it is set to max cold, although this is intermittent, which to me, creates a harder problem to diagnose.
For example, if I put the AC on Auto, at 70 degrees, it never gets cold enough for the fan to drop below the Medium fan setting. To me 70, is not that cold, and it should be able to reach this temperature, and then slow the fan down to just maintain the temperature. I can even put the system on Max AC, and it the fan blows at the High setting, but it never gets really cold.
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Something weird started happening post my oil change yesterday. AC is working only at LO temp and it blows hot air even at 65. AC light stays on but it starts blowing hot air at any other setting then LO..
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How to reset/re-program my original key. It all started when the plastic casing of the key broke off and tried to use the original spare key wallet type with transponder and key dont go all the way in the ignition and key get stuck in one position but manage to get it out. Tried to put the broken one with the transponder close to it and will not start. Luckily i still have another original key that works. I have change the battery of the broken one and fabricated new housing made of brass and have tried the remote and it doesnt work too.
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My 2005 RX330 has run fine for all 45000 miles to date. One exception is that there is a high pitched hum that becomes noticeable once the car reaches 30 mph and continues to increase pitch until about 45mph. The hum seems to disappear when going faster than 45. If you cruise on a quiet street at 30mph the hum will stay steady if you maintain speed. The hum will increase if you accelerate.
But... if you take your foot off the gas pedal the hum instantly stops. Put your foot back on the pedal and it instantly starts. You can almost "play a song" by taking your foot off and on the pedal. Lexus service clearly heard the sound during a test drive, but could not figure it out.
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Hard to fix? Only happens when going under 5 mph either in slow traffic or slowing down to park in parking spot or just stopping the car. Doesn't happen at high speeds. It's like I'm driving on snow or ice or wet pavement but there is dry pavement. Brake pads and rotors were cleaned with no success. Guessing that a sensor is dirty or broken or such.
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I have a 2004 RX330 that all of a sudden had the SRS warning light come on as well as the passenger airbag OFF light being constantly lit up even when someone is sitting in the passenger seat. I put the SRS system in diagnostics mode with a jumper clip to determine I am receiving a DTC of 23. Documentation I have found for this online states for Lexus it is a occupancy classification system issue which I know means it's something on the passenger side.
This seems like it would be related to the occupant seat sensor itself which I am first of all wondering if it is bypassed like the BMW guys have done on their cars when this issue happens.
Secondly, I'm wondering with this specific code of 23 could it be anything other than the seat/weight sensor? My passenger seat belt has tons of slack and doesn't retract as it should so I'm thinking maybe pre-tensioner sensor but not sure because it also seems to stick when trying to unbuckle it as well which leads me to believe it could be the fastener sensor.
I feel very unsafe having any passengers in the vehicle right now and the car is well beyond its warranty of course so bringing it in to the dealer is really a last resort option for me since I know at minimum they'll charge $1000 for SRS wiring issues based on what I've read.
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How to change the bulb on the rx330 fog lights. It doesn't say it in the manual.
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