Lexus RX 2004-09 :: AC Blowing Hot Air If Temperature Is Not Set To Max Cold
Feb 28, 2011
I have a 2004 2nd generation Toyota Harrier (Lexus model RX330). The A/C blowing hot air if temperature is not set to Max Cold. This happened no matter whether turn on the A/C with Auto or Manual setting. This case also happen no matter whether setting the A/C system to Dual mode or not, no matter whether turn on or off the air intake control button.
As long as A/C on, cold air only come out when temperature set to Max Cold, even if set to 18 degree, full hot air come out. Another thing is, say I have the A/C on, set to max cold, cold air came out from the front vent, but after I try to increase the temperature to say 18 degree, the hot air flow will change to Floor/Windshield mode.
Could it because due to the change of the battery? Is there anything need to reset after replacing the battery?
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It seems my A/C isn't blowing cold air all the time. It's as if the compressor isn't kicking on or is intermittent. It eventually does, but it takes a long time to cool the vehicle. I've had it about 6 years and it has definitely changed. Vehicle is an '04 with 106K now.
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I have a 2004 GX470. Now that the weather has dropped I have noticed that my heater is taking a long time to warm up all it does is blow cold air out of the vent. Subsequently I have started to notice that they car will start to overheat. It will never get to the point where it will hit the red but it will go up and then come back down to mid range. There doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the car, it idles fine, starts fine etc. Could these two issues be related?
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For the past week, my wife's 2004 GX A/C has been blowing hot air off and on. At first I thought this was due to low refrigerant but after pressure testing it appears to be full. Yesterday afternoon I was driving the car home and the A/C was blowing cool air then suddenly stopped again, I happened to look at the engine temperature gauge and noticed it creeping to "H". I shut down the air all together, pulled over and it cooled. The gauge actually stayed below the half way point the rest of the way home, until I had to stop at a light, then it slowly climbed up to the "H" again, the lowered as I drove to a cruising speed 55MPH. One home, I looked at the coolant reservoir and there was no fluid in it (not sure if this is normal) and there was no sign of smoke or fluid leaking. Could this be a thermostat issue, radiator issue, loss coolant issue???
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On my 2003 GX 470 w/ 135,000 I have an issue that I can't figure out how to resolve.
The driver side lets out hot heat and the passenger side lets out cold air. I have the dual climate control and both sides are at MAX HEAT with the blower on HIGH. I have 2 vents for each the passenger and the driver.
The left side of steering wheel vent is allowing max heat. the right side of steering wheel vent lets out warm air. Not as hot as left side but warm. On the passenger side, its only letting out cold air and gets colder if I lower the temp on the climate control for right side.
Engine coolant is full, no lights on dash. Blower motor sounds like its working fine.
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I've owned this Toyota Camry 2004 LE for two years now and this issue started couple of weeks ago , I the tempreture gague is always at cold , mean less than 25% . where it used to be always in the middle and at the 50% right in the middle . heat still works , have not tried AC yet , it is still in the 20-30s here in Minnesota . I am suspecting maybe a thermostat or some other heating cooling sensor somewhere .
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In the past month or so, I have had 2 instances of my 04 Escape being stubborn on start up. Both times, the engine will crank when I turn the key, but won't start up. After a 5 or so seconds of unsuccessfully trying, I turn the key to the off position, wait a second or so, then try it again - without fail, the car starts right up (well, almost - usually takes a turn or so longer than usual, but nothing too concerning) and runs normally. I am hoping that this is simply cold weather-related.
Each time it has happened, we have been experiencing lower temperatures after a day or two of 30+ degree days. I have a job that allows me to carpool most days, so the car usually only gets driven once or twice a week (a little over 20 miles each day I drive it) - with the cold weather, and the fact that I just replaced the battery last month, I have been trying my best to start the car and let it warm up every few days to keep the battery somewhat charged. Again, this has only happened two times - both times have gone the exact same way. Is this related to the cold, or could I be seeing the beginnings of a more expensive issue?
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Yup, my truck randomly whistles while driving in cold temperatures. Its not life threatening or damaging to the truck, its been doing it for a few months not that its been getting below freezing. Its just REALLY annoying. I can even hear it over my radio at times, so its pretty dang loud outside of the truck. The noise originates from somewhere under the hood in the engine compartment.
Won't do it at lower speeds, usually on the freeway. Motors at about 2k rpm and im going roughly 65-70. Change the rpm when it whistles and it goes away. happens randomly from 50mph to 70mph engine speed from 1.8k to 2.5k rpm. I've tried to find it but can't find a darn thing since it won't make the noise while sitting in my driveway. What it might be?
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I have an 08 that the heater either works all hot or cold. It seems that when i try to control the temp it isnt consistent. It will be on hot, turned all the way the right in the red. Great, it gets too warm in the truck so turn it down a little. Then it is too cold. I only turned it down a little, not even in the blue zone yet. I turn it up a little and it is still cold. Turn it all the way up and it is too hot again. What is up with this. I hope it isnt the blend door syndrome. The truck only has 30,000 on it.
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I have a 2007 f150 with the 5.4 in it and today I was driving it and my tempreture gauge randomly shot to cold and check engine light came on. Also can't even find the dam radiator cap due to too much plastic!!!
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I noticed the A/C was not blowing cold air. I also noticed oil spots on the driveway. I jacked up the car and there is oil coming from Evap drain line. I bought a can of refrigerent with a gauge. The A/C was low. The car took the whole 18 oz and was still low. But blows cold air now. My guess is that the evaporator is leaking.
2010 ES 350 96000 miles
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2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
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I had my A/C compressor unplugged over the winter, and now that I've plugged it back in, the A/C is not blowing cold. Is there some kind of programming reset that needs to be done?
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My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
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So last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
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Have 66,000 on the clock. AC has blown cold since i have had the car, and yesterday quits blowing cold, summer is right around the corner.
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04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
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I have an 06 Prius. I was driving my Prius today and I've noticed that my car has NO HOT AIR...
And this is Winter!! I was driving for about 20 mins and still...No Hot air...vents are blowing cold (cool) air.
I recently changed my condenser/radiator but I did NOT fill my condensor with the A/C gas yet. (could that be the problem?) But isn't the gas inside condenser is for A/C and not for the Hot air??
Any other stuff that I need to check to solve this problem?? (harness, fuse etc.?) It's cold outside and my car has NO HEAT!
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Just bought a 04' F250, new head studs and gaskets. Put a tranny temp sensor in and replaced bad thermostat. My coolant res is full and temp is bout 185 (it's 10* outside). My heater is blowing out cold air, I'm assuming there's air in the system.
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My a/c was blowing but the air wasn't cold. No freon, so the dealer loaded up with freon containing a tracer. After a week, the tracer is coming out of the evaporator drain only, which implicates the evaporator as the source of the leak.
I just hit 150K miles and was extolling my repair free existence, when I had to do the front struts, brakes, and new tires (again); followed by this. Can't find a reference to evaporator leaks anywhere (a lot of mold maybe, but nothing requiring replacement. Did my luck just run out, or is this more common than I think?
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Nothing will blow out from vents, with heat or AC. I checked the fuse under the hood and that had continuity, I checked the 7.5 fuse under the dash and that was fine. I also replaced the blower motor resistor and the blower motor with brand new ones. Also used a test light to make sure power was getting to the resistor and motor and that is all good.
2004 Honda Accord EX Sedan .....
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