We recently purchased a 2008 RX350 with 61,000 miles. We had a potentially dangerous brake failure when the brake booster unit failed. It was an expensive repair ($1400.) and Lexus has refused to stand behind the product.
View 3 RepliesHave a rusty brake booster? My truck is an 07' with 55k. Brakes work great, but the booster is rusting all over. Should I replace? The lower steering shaft doesn't look so great either.... I'm trying to attach a picture, but I'm having some issues.
View 3 RepliesThe wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
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So I just installed my centric hubs that allow you to use 4x4it rotors. Along with some ebc rotors and pads front and rear. Well the "gear" that gives the signal to the wheel sensor is off center so now my abs and brake light are on cause it keeps losing the signal (checked with a solas pro). How well did they stand behind their product. Thought I should add they are still on my truck because my old rotors and wheel bearings were totally fried.
View 4 RepliesThe annoying buzzing from the brake booster check valve that comes from the left of the instrument panel when lighly braking (especially when parked or waiting at a traffic light) is a well-known problem, as it was the subject of a Lexus (and Toyota) TSB for 2004-2010 models(see link below to the clublexus link), and has been discussed on many forums for Lexus and other cars.
I just bought a new 2012 RX 350 last month, and within a week it started making this buzzing noise (left instrument panel upon light braking). I took the car to the dealer and without listening they said that they knew it was the brake booster valve (the noise is the rattling of a ball bearing when the valve is malfunctioning). They replaced the valve and the noise went away (the loaner RX they gave me made the noise even worse).
Well, 3 weeks later, the noise has returned!
Team 4th Gen. Just a heads up. When I first bought my 600, the radar cruise was throwing an error due to a faulty brake light switch near the brake pedal. It was repaired but it appears the adjustment on that switch may not have been done.
I noticed cars rushing up on me as I was slowing down and turning many times, even causing a car to swerve hard to avoid hitting me.
I realized my brake pedal needed to be about 3/4 pressed to engage the brake lights. I also noticed I had to really mash the brake to disengage the cruise control. I then noticed when someone drove my car and came to a light. No brake lights even though they were def slowing down and not coasting.
So i had my oil changed today and had them investigate while it was there. There is an adjustment to that switch component and now the lights come on with hardly any pressure on the pedal and cruise disengages with very slight pressure on pedal as it should.
Every time I start my Golf there is a beep, the EPC light and ABS light come on and stay on, and the brake warning light starts flashing and continues to flash.
I have had the fault codes read and it came up with the following:
0414 Control unit improperly coded Faulty
0606 Yaw rate sensor Circuit defective.
What these faults actually mean and what might cause them? I'm quite keen to resolve the issue as anything brakes related makes me nervous, plus I do drive the car hard and use the 4Motion system, which I believe utilises the ABS system?
Probably worth mentioning that the car is fitted with a Series 1 Blue Haldex controller, in case that makes any difference?
My wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
The A/C on our 2007 Nissan Altima went a year ago. Our trusty mechanic diagnosed the problem and replaced the clutch, which is now past the one-year warranty. The A/C has now became intermittent, and the mechanic's best assessment is that the recent clutch has also failed, but he has no clue about an underlying cause, if any. His recommendation to get the A/C running again is to replace the clutch again, assuming that it is the source of the problem. He advises that this is the only way to determine if it is in fact the cause or something else highly obscure is behind the clutch failure. What should we do about the A/C and clutch?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 lexus gx 470 with factory backup camera that has stopped working? Is there a way to diagnose if the camera is bad without getting new unit? Also must one remove the back panel to get to the camera?
View 4 RepliesI'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
View 2 RepliesAfter replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
View 5 RepliesHow do you remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal? The damn rod won't separate from that plastic housing. I've tried wedging a flathead in there but it's hard to see. I've been fighting with it all evening and finally gave up before I end up breaking it.
Found a DIY that just cut the rod to pull the brake pedal to remove it. I rather not do that as I will be reusing the one I have.
My 97 F-150 (4.6 L) has developed what sounds like a vacuum leak under the driver's side dash somewhere above the pedals. I can't see anything obvious. It changes sound with various positions of the brake pedal, and I can make it stop with hard acceleration for a few seconds. The brake pedal feels the same. I'm assuming the problem is probably my brake booster, right? Or should I be looking elsewhere? If so, how hard is it to replace?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 960 station wagon and a brake booster that appears to be leaking. On the passenger side of the firewall. As close as I can tell the leak seems to be right where the gaitor (rubber covering a rod) is.
1995 960 Wagon
i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
View 4 RepliesMy brake booster is making noise for a few months now. It works ok and brakes are strong but the noise is there. Any way to quiet it down? Or how much the replacement might cost?
View 1 RepliesBrake pedal whistles and is hard to push. Only happens intermittently. Mechanic wants to put new brake booster on. This would be 3rd brake booster in 9mos. It's gotta be something else. What does the vacuum hose connect to from the check valve; where on the intake manifold? If no PVC valve...then what else? Truck runs fine...no fast idle or rough idle and no hesitation.
View 4 RepliesI need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
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This morning I was driving my 08 Lexus RX350 in fresh snow in Boston area. When I applied brake I noticed the wheel slipping/sliding and I heard brake noise (some sort of cracking noise - I don't know how to define that sound :-). It was fresh snow, may be an inch or two and I was driving around 10 miles. I have to pound on the brakes and it took few seconds before it stopped and I narrowly avoid hitting the suv in front of me.
I was driving with all season tires and ECT snow mode was not on during that time. Could that be a problem?
A week back I replaced the rear brake pads (akebono ceramic) & rotors (raybestos) at a local garage. Will it be a problem with the way it is replaced? or will there be any issue with ABS?