Lexus RX 2004-09 :: 2007 RX 350 2WD - Ignition Coil F Replacement
Jul 28, 2012
I have a 2007 RX 350 2WD. Recently, the check engine light is on, as well we two other lights are on as well: VSC, TRAC OFF.
I went to Lexus and was told that the error code is P0356. I was told that the ignition coil F is problematic and need replaced. I was quoted 1 and 1/2 hours two 2 hours work and need $412 for the repair. Well, I went to auto zone and was told that No 2, 4, 6 ignition coils were on outside so that it would only take about 5 minutes to replace the problematic one with a new one.
I did the replacement indeed by myself after buying a new ignition coil. Initially it was fine and the light went off after a little while. However, after about 10 days, those three lights went back again. I check the ignition coil, it seems fine and I was told that it is very unlikely for a new ignition coil to go bad this quickly.
I was told that I may need to check my spark plug as well. BTW, when I start the car, the car is a little bit shaky.
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I just completed the spark plug change on my wife's '07 RX350. As the numerous threads on this topic point out, this is one serious undertaking. I'm not claiming to be a mechanic but have done my share of DIY's including changing the usual oil/filter, brake discs/pads, serpentine belt, rear hatch switch and now the spark plugs on my wife's car and the same or similar on all of my other cars. This has got to be the single most difficult project that I've tackled recently. I did fail to do the front Mac struts but this was because I didn't appear to have the right spring compressor. Go figure.
Anyhow, I found that I needed to remove the front windshield cowl to get access to that infamous third stay bolt.
To my question ... I managed to break off the tabs that lock the connector to the ignition coil on about three spark plugs. I'm concerned about these eventually vibrating off. Should I be concerned about this? Do I need to now go in and change these? Or, tie-wrap then in place?
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Understanding all the needed parts when replacing ignition coils on a honda fit 2007. My understanding is it is best to replace all 4 (are there 4 total?) as well as the spark plugs - also 4?What other parts are needed, does this car require spark plug wires?
Basically, Would this be a good time to replace air filters as well? Car has 116K miles.
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Started up my car the other night and my engine light came on, trac light came on... VSC msg came on the dash, engine was rough idling. I drove it home after checking my fluids... i took the OBD scanner to see whats going on, hoping i just need a battery change. Codes popped up P0354, P0300-0306. basically ignition coil malfunction, and my cylinders were misfiring.
I am at 62k miles and warranty crapped out at 50k. the problem was obviously electric, since all 6 were misfiring, otherwise it would only be a few. I haven't had any engine work, I just recently did a proper oil change at home(royal purple 5W30), which I've done since I've had the car in 07.. I took the car to the dealership for the CPU reprogramming for the recall in April.
About to take the car back to get it checked up on and fixed.. I am lowered on coilovers and 20" rims, which gives it a rough ride, but i dont think it would cause this problem. i dont track/race the car and i drive it relatively civilized. Lowered since 30k miles and 20"rims since 50k miles.
What could've gone wrong? timing off etc... i pulled my engine cover to check the connection points for the coils, all seems fine, no corrosion on the grounding points. i was only able to check the front 3 coils, the other 3 were hidden in the back and i wasnt able to look at them. i assume they should be fine as well..
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Need to change the rear coil over shocks and have a possible how to?
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We bought it in 2010, since then we have replaced 5 ignition coils and 2-3 batteries. Everytime the car acts up, the VSC and traction lights come on and the car starts stumbling and hesitating. The car eventually dies within a few minutes. Pull up codes and its always been an ignition coil.
Well we had all of these covered under warranty until the warranty expired in Aug. A month ago this happened again, and thought the battery was dead. It ended up being #4 coil, so I replaced.
My wife drove last week and lights came on and lights started going on/off and dinging at her and the car died. I jumped it to get it home, turned off the car and was dead. Voltage at battery was 9 volts.
I charged overnight and started the next day. I pulled negative battery cable w car running to check alternator and it stayed running, so that's good. The car is now starting just fine again.....until this happens again.....which it will.
My question is what in the heck can be making all of the coils go bad and why is the car intermittently throwing warning lights and just dying? This last time the codes pulled we P0345, PO365, PO390. All of which I don't see an explanation for.
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Any easy solution to reseating this wire in the connector? It got yanked out by accident when i was removing an ignition coil under the wiring harness. 2007 camry v6
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I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
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I replaced my valve cover gasket yesterday on my 2004 Camry. While putting back together, three of the tabs on the connectors for the ignition coil harness snapped off and would not stay together because of tension on the harness. I tried to zip tie them because I read that in another forum post but the clips (alligator clips?) inside the connector did not seem to be making contact with connector on top of ignition coil. The car was mis-firing and running very rough.
After much frustration, I finally removed the wires with the alligator clips from inside the connector and plugged them directly into the top of the ignition coil. Well, the car started and seems to be running/idling fine although now the Check Engine Light is on. Also, I have not driven car yet.
My question: Can I drive the car like this or will the vibration from the engine eventually loosen the connections. I am planning on ordering the connectors but they will not be in for a few days and I need to drive the car.
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I have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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I have a 2002 Camry 2.4L, ECM 89666-06220, ignition coil 90919-02243. One of the coils has gone out. I got a misfire code on P303. I then moved the cylinder 3 coil to cylinder 4, cleared the code and restarted the car. The new code was P304, bad coil. I found a set of low mileage used coils, 90080-19023. The dealer says this number was one of the three options for 2002. But the pin-to-pin ohm values don't match.
The 90080-19023 pin ohms, 1-2= 348, 1-3=667, 1-4= 490, 2-3= 1100, 2-4= 912, 3-4= open. The 90919-02243 pin ohms, 1-2= 390, 1-3= 673, 1-4=940, 2-3= 1154, 2-4=1403, 3-4= open. How to successfully do this substitution and not burned up ECM ?
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I have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles
The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .
Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.
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Found out today that my third ignition coil is bad, it's a Honda civic 03' my question is, do I have to buy a new ignition coil. I had a clerk tell me I could switch the coils and it would run fine? Is this right? could I just switch the ignition coil with another ignition coil? This doesn't sound right. Well If I do buy new one which would be the third ignition coil? is it counted from left to right or right to left? Are there any telltale signs of a bad ignition coil on sight?
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Ignition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
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2000 Honda Accord. I've been told I have a bad ignition coil. Do I need to replace all six or can I just replace the one?
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I have a 1995, 1500, 350eng, PU. there seems to be an electrical problem in the ignition system. when the key is turned on the check engine and other lights do not come on and there is no power to the coil/ignition. When the lights do come on the truck starts. I have replaced module, dist,pickup coil, coil, cap and rotor. Could the problem be in the computer?
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I have a 2003 passat 1.8 and I just started having a misfiring problem. I googled it and ran across a 2003 press release that VW had recalled them. I am going to call tomorrow, but I did a little testing myself. Probably not the best thing to do, but this is what I did. I had my wife start the car and I pulled off the coils until I hit the one that didn't make the car shake any more than it already was. It is the second one from the front. I pulled the spark plug out. It is the original, but didn't look too bad.
My question is: How do you test the ignition coil to see if it is faulty or if it could be the distributor? The coil that attaches to the plug looks a little burnt around the rim where it connects to the plug. Its not an expensive part, but I don't want to go buying another one just to find out it is the main distributor or something else...
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How to remove the clip on ignition coil connector wires that attach to all 4 of the coils.
I see that it has a black tab that you pull to the up or out position. From there I'm at a loss what to do. I managed to prode and poke and got one off, but I nearly pulled the connector off the wire and I know I didn't do it right.
Is there a simple way to release these mothers that I'm just not getting? If so, looking for explicit instructions in minute detail..
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So I went to a local VW in Milwaukee in March and they saw I was eligible for the Ignition Coil Recall. So they replaced that and the first time I started the car after they did that my car wouldn't start. This was the first time I experienced the problem. I told them and they tried and it started right away. However, for the past four months I've experienced this problem where when I try to start the car it takes awhile to get it started. It doesn't click it just keeps making that loud noise of trying to turn over. I went back to the VW twice and they said the ignition coil is not related to this and they wont do anything for me. My check engine lights been on all along too and they say I need a temperature sensor replaced. They don't even know if this will fix my not starting problem. After spending a little time trying to start my car it eventually starts every time. Checked battery- its fine. Not sure what to do here.
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My husband's 2001 Buick LeSabre had an ignition module and one ignition coil replaced in March. Yesterday, the car broke down, and the mechanic told us that the new ignition coil shorted out the other two coils. Is this believable? We've been using the same mechanic for several years because we trusted him and have heard a lot of good things about him, but this seems kinda fishy. This car is not one of the GM cars that was recalled.
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