Lexus RX 2004-09 :: 2006 RX330 Engine Seems To Stall When Driving Up A Hill
Apr 9, 2015
I have a 2006, RX 330 with approximately 130,000 miles. I was driving up a hill today and my engine seemed to stall. I pumped the throttle a couple of times and it seamed to take care of the problem. I am thinking it is a dirty fuel filter. Would a pressure test on the fuel line give me the answer ? And yes I did check and there is plenty of fuel in the tank.
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I was wondering if a bad/leaking steering rack would cause a clunking sound when turning. Also if the rack is bad how many hours should it take to change?
When I am making turns I hear a clunking noise coming from the passenger side and the boot has oil on it but the fluid in the reservoir doesn't seem low.
When I am driving there is a lot of vibration and when I go over 60 the front end starts to wobble.
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I have a 2006 RX330 AWD. I took it to get inspected and was told I had a bad O2 Sensor.
Are they easy to replace? What should the average cost be? I was also looking for the part number. I was told that "Bank 2 Sensor 1" failed. I was looking for the part but I am not sure I found the correct part.
I was also told that the front inner and outer Tie Rod needs replaced along with both rear wheel bearings. I found the parts for the tie rod but not sure about the rear wheel bearings. Wondering if i need to get just the wheel bearing or if i need the wheel bearing and hub assembly also.
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It seems like my wife's 2006 RX330 does not get as cold as it used to. At times, it will even blow warm and humid air, even though it is set to max cold, although this is intermittent, which to me, creates a harder problem to diagnose.
For example, if I put the AC on Auto, at 70 degrees, it never gets cold enough for the fan to drop below the Medium fan setting. To me 70, is not that cold, and it should be able to reach this temperature, and then slow the fan down to just maintain the temperature. I can even put the system on Max AC, and it the fan blows at the High setting, but it never gets really cold.
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It has 85K miles and rides very choppy/harsh. I feel even a very small dip/hump/bump when driving and it's coming from rear of the car.
What needs to be replaced and/or checked other than the rear shocks? Everything is stock and correct tire pressure.
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What could the cause of the rear wiper on an '06 RX330 not gripping well to the window be? Could it need a new spring, or could the entire assembly need to be changed? What troubleshooting can be done in this situation?
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I have a 2006 RX 330 with 116,000 miles. I noticed that i had a leak and the power steering oil level was low. I went under the car and looks like the power steering hose is leaking. The dealer wants $352 for hose and $325 for labor. I called auto parts stores and they say its a dealer item only. Someone told me I could have a hose company rebuild it for a lot less.
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I have a 2006 rx330 with belt squeaking noises on after warming up for say 10 mins on cold mornings, while reaching home I could hear the noises on cold days, the outside temperatures usually 35 to 40 F happens. While driving no noises, only happen on cold days when temperature is above 50 no problem. Should I replace the belts, how many belts are involved ? Tensioner problems ?
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where best place to start looking for what's causing p0442 code on my 2005 rx330? and its not the gas cap... also have a "c" code identified for the VSC light, states that its wheel speed sensor. evidently wrote the wrong code down, i had it listed as a c1290 but in looking them up i couldn't find that one.
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Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
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I bought my 2004 RX 330 last year with 110k miles. It starts up every time with no problem, except that It takes a few more seconds to turn over the engine till it starts. I have to keep the key turned longer that my other cars where all I need to do is just turn to start for a second only. I just replaced the battery and that did not change anything.
Is this normal for my RX 330, could I need new spark plugs? It's never been a problem in winter or summer.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
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I have a 2005 RX 330 with about 100k on it. The A/C does not keep the cabin cool. If you turn the fan up it will keep it cooler. I took it back to the dealer and they say there is nothing wrong with it. They did recharge it but it did nothing. You have to keep the fan turned up to just stay comfortable. I have had service loaners and I have to keep turning the temp up or it gets too cold.
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Something weird started happening post my oil change yesterday. AC is working only at LO temp and it blows hot air even at 65. AC light stays on but it starts blowing hot air at any other setting then LO..
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How to reset/re-program my original key. It all started when the plastic casing of the key broke off and tried to use the original spare key wallet type with transponder and key dont go all the way in the ignition and key get stuck in one position but manage to get it out. Tried to put the broken one with the transponder close to it and will not start. Luckily i still have another original key that works. I have change the battery of the broken one and fabricated new housing made of brass and have tried the remote and it doesnt work too.
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My 2005 RX330 has run fine for all 45000 miles to date. One exception is that there is a high pitched hum that becomes noticeable once the car reaches 30 mph and continues to increase pitch until about 45mph. The hum seems to disappear when going faster than 45. If you cruise on a quiet street at 30mph the hum will stay steady if you maintain speed. The hum will increase if you accelerate.
But... if you take your foot off the gas pedal the hum instantly stops. Put your foot back on the pedal and it instantly starts. You can almost "play a song" by taking your foot off and on the pedal. Lexus service clearly heard the sound during a test drive, but could not figure it out.
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Hard to fix? Only happens when going under 5 mph either in slow traffic or slowing down to park in parking spot or just stopping the car. Doesn't happen at high speeds. It's like I'm driving on snow or ice or wet pavement but there is dry pavement. Brake pads and rotors were cleaned with no success. Guessing that a sensor is dirty or broken or such.
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I have a 2004 RX330 that all of a sudden had the SRS warning light come on as well as the passenger airbag OFF light being constantly lit up even when someone is sitting in the passenger seat. I put the SRS system in diagnostics mode with a jumper clip to determine I am receiving a DTC of 23. Documentation I have found for this online states for Lexus it is a occupancy classification system issue which I know means it's something on the passenger side.
This seems like it would be related to the occupant seat sensor itself which I am first of all wondering if it is bypassed like the BMW guys have done on their cars when this issue happens.
Secondly, I'm wondering with this specific code of 23 could it be anything other than the seat/weight sensor? My passenger seat belt has tons of slack and doesn't retract as it should so I'm thinking maybe pre-tensioner sensor but not sure because it also seems to stick when trying to unbuckle it as well which leads me to believe it could be the fastener sensor.
I feel very unsafe having any passengers in the vehicle right now and the car is well beyond its warranty of course so bringing it in to the dealer is really a last resort option for me since I know at minimum they'll charge $1000 for SRS wiring issues based on what I've read.
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How to change the bulb on the rx330 fog lights. It doesn't say it in the manual.
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I got my 2011 ES 350 inspected at a dealership in Chicago last week and they told me that the passenger-side (right side) front axle boot was leaking grease. I'd noticed before that my car would shimmy/vibrate slightly when I accelerate, the vibration would intensify if I was accelerating up a hill. However, the mechanic at the dealership said the problem COULD be in the axle, but it could be something else. The car has new Michelin tires, I would assume the problem is tires, but that wouldn't explain the increased vibration that happens when driving up a hill. I talked to a local mechanic and he said he would replace the axle. Do you think the vibration would disappear if I replaced the axle?
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