Lexus RX 2004-09 :: 05 RX330 Starts Pinging At Part / Light Throttle Once Engine Fully Warmed Up
May 19, 2016
My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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I bought my 2004 RX 330 last year with 110k miles. It starts up every time with no problem, except that It takes a few more seconds to turn over the engine till it starts. I have to keep the key turned longer that my other cars where all I need to do is just turn to start for a second only. I just replaced the battery and that did not change anything.
Is this normal for my RX 330, could I need new spark plugs? It's never been a problem in winter or summer.
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I was wondering if a bad/leaking steering rack would cause a clunking sound when turning. Also if the rack is bad how many hours should it take to change?
When I am making turns I hear a clunking noise coming from the passenger side and the boot has oil on it but the fluid in the reservoir doesn't seem low.
When I am driving there is a lot of vibration and when I go over 60 the front end starts to wobble.
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where best place to start looking for what's causing p0442 code on my 2005 rx330? and its not the gas cap... also have a "c" code identified for the VSC light, states that its wheel speed sensor. evidently wrote the wrong code down, i had it listed as a c1290 but in looking them up i couldn't find that one.
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When car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
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About a week and a half ago I took my 2008 ISF to Lexus to have them check out the ticking noise. My car has 63K miles on it and I notice the ticking noise after it is fully warmed up. I normally have just been driving it in Sport-Manual too. The sound seems to come from the driver's side fender well area and I hear it best when it is in drive in my garage or at a drive thru.
At first Lexus couldn't duplicate the sound even after driving the car. So I went to the dealership and drove the car about 10 mins for them to hear. The service advisor and a technician heard it this time. They had to call the regional Field Technical Service rep for direction on how to proceed. The FTS person recommend swapping the driver's side high pressure fuel pump to the passenger side to see if the noise followed the pump. I guess they've had problems in the past with the high pressure pumps on the LS models. I again went down to the dealer to drive the car and the noise stayed on the driver's side.
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
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I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
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Hard to fix? Only happens when going under 5 mph either in slow traffic or slowing down to park in parking spot or just stopping the car. Doesn't happen at high speeds. It's like I'm driving on snow or ice or wet pavement but there is dry pavement. Brake pads and rotors were cleaned with no success. Guessing that a sensor is dirty or broken or such.
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I have a 2004 RX330 that all of a sudden had the SRS warning light come on as well as the passenger airbag OFF light being constantly lit up even when someone is sitting in the passenger seat. I put the SRS system in diagnostics mode with a jumper clip to determine I am receiving a DTC of 23. Documentation I have found for this online states for Lexus it is a occupancy classification system issue which I know means it's something on the passenger side.
This seems like it would be related to the occupant seat sensor itself which I am first of all wondering if it is bypassed like the BMW guys have done on their cars when this issue happens.
Secondly, I'm wondering with this specific code of 23 could it be anything other than the seat/weight sensor? My passenger seat belt has tons of slack and doesn't retract as it should so I'm thinking maybe pre-tensioner sensor but not sure because it also seems to stick when trying to unbuckle it as well which leads me to believe it could be the fastener sensor.
I feel very unsafe having any passengers in the vehicle right now and the car is well beyond its warranty of course so bringing it in to the dealer is really a last resort option for me since I know at minimum they'll charge $1000 for SRS wiring issues based on what I've read.
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I have a Lexus RX 330 2004 which I recently made some changes to the front end suspension, since then, my car beeps whether i turn or I drive even in straight line beyond 40MPH. The beep comes along with a light in dash with an icon of the car with curves.
I have read something referring to a zero calibration. Which pins to short to perform the calibration? Since I don't have the lexus diagnostic tools, I heard its the CG and TS pins but What pin numbers are the on my 2004 AWD RX 330?
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I have a RX330 and recently noticed that both the RH and LH outer tail lamps bulb sockets are melted.
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I have a 2006, RX 330 with approximately 130,000 miles. I was driving up a hill today and my engine seemed to stall. I pumped the throttle a couple of times and it seamed to take care of the problem. I am thinking it is a dirty fuel filter. Would a pressure test on the fuel line give me the answer ? And yes I did check and there is plenty of fuel in the tank.
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The passenger side HID bulb of my 2005 RX330 need to be replaced, how to? Also there is condensed water in the assembly. I am going to replace it later. Where are other screws beside two on the top?
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Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
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My 2004 RX330 which has gone many years without a problem suddenly has instrument panel gremlins.
I started the car a couple of days ago (it had rained during the day), and the airbag light did not turn off. Then the TPMS warning light came on, the water temperature gauge dropped to zero. The AC controls stopped responding. Since I needed to get home, and the car seemed otherwise fine, I drove home, after a few minutes the transmission "D" drive light went blank and the instrument back-light went to full brightness.
A few minutes later, all the warning lights went off and the back-light went back to normal. The AC controls still seemed to be off. A few minutes later the airbag warning light came back on, followed by the TPMS light and the back-light went to full brightness again. This cycle kept happening all the way home.
The next morning, hoping the problem had been some errant water getting into something, I started the car, opened the driver's door to get something and got back into the car, closing the door. The light showing the door was open stayed on. I put the car into reverse, the doors did not automatically lock as they usually do. I turned off the engine and restarted it, most of the other lights were off, the doors would lock; airbag & TPMS light came back on.
It has stayed that way, except I also get the A/T temperature warning light coming on periodically, and after some cycle it goes off.
I borrowed a car code reader, it does not seem to show any error codes. In reading some other postings it has been suggested that the Brake light switch is the cause, but the brake lights come on/off without any problem.
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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I recently bought a used 05' prius, and discovered a flutter sound (sounds like uneven tire) while on a smooth road. It comes from the engine compartment. I has no clue what IT can be.
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About two weeks ago i had a ton of work done to my W100: clutch, freeze plugs, valve seals, body mount bushing, headers, x-pipe dual exhaust. The shop did tell me before i picked it up that it had a lean pop and the carb needs to be rebuilt.
as of now, it idles fine and drive fine when cold, as it starts to warm up it starts to become problematic - it feels like the engine stumbles any time you try to maintain a constant speed (slight throttle engagement), it accelerates fine, but that's about it. You have to drive it in a constant state of accelerate and foot off gas because it does not like you foot on the gas pedal just a little. if you do keep your foot slightly engaged it will stumble and the exhaust will pop - not so much a backfire as there's not at jerking.
-both coolant sensors are new
-spark plugs are FSM spec champion copper 404/rn12yc
-plug wires are a year old (msd cheaper line)
-timing seems fine (around 8-10 BTDC)
-watched at night to try to see if any arcing was happening, none that i could see or hear
-finagled some exhaust restrictors on the exhaust tips out of rubber plumbing couplers and big lag bolt washers to try to recreate the backpressure from the old exhaust, no difference
-went around the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and propane, couldn't find any distinguishable leaks
Fuel filter about a year old- new fuel pump installed while at shop.
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My 1999 escort 2.0L sohc is having idle issues. It idles perfectly after a cold start. When the engine warms up, the engine starts to lope, and often dies. I've searched for leaks and replaced parts that are the most obvious possible reasons. Also replaced some parts that were questionable. The head was cracked and the gasket blown. It was obviously like that for quite some time. There was only a leak between the coolant and cylinder.
So far I've replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump(trashed), thermostat, cts, radiator fan switch, head w/gasket, radiator cap, iac valve, ccrm, pcm/ecu, tps, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned intake, cleaned injectors, new injector o-rings, spark plugs, coil, checked and cleaned pcv valve. Knock sensor is ordered, and O2 sensor will be installed soon.
The loping goes away with the headlight and/or A/C on. The car previously would overheat without the cooling fan switching on, hence the cooling parts being replaced.
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