On rapid acceleration from standing start-- RC- F does not have a smooth transition. Tires jump and shake for half a second before car has even acceleration. Even with traction control turned off this happens. WHAT IS THAT ALL ABOUT ????
View 14 RepliesI have 18k miles on my IS350 AWD Fsport. Brought it in for shake at highway speeds around 70-80. Dealer called and said steel belts are showing on REAR tires on my ALL Wheel Drive. My mileage is 2/3 highway. Went Hankook Ventus V12s on my 2IS and fronts would wear much faster...
View 5 RepliesRandom popping noises Frm the tires when driving? It doesn't matter what speeds slow, fast randomly hear this POP noise like the car is going over something on the road (no I'm not going over anything)....
View 14 RepliesAbout 6 months ago I bought a '08 GS 350 CPO. Love the car but after a month or two of ownership, on light acceleration 3rd and 4th gears will shudder. The whole car will buck and shake, but if I give it more gas it will smooth out. Doesn't seem to be the engine, I suspect more the transmission. Of course I took it in and they "could not reproduce the problem"... Is this just a normal characteristic of the car?
View 14 RepliesSo the problem is that when I turn fairly sharp I can feel the front tires grabbing and slipping a bit, especially on wet roads. I have the car at the dealership for the first scheduled maintenance and asked them to look at that. I know that 4wd vehicles can do this grab and slip because the tires rotate differently when engaged and turning tightly. The issue is that I never felt this in my EVO at all.
View 2 RepliesSince they replaced my transmission at 40,000 miles, I've noticed that occasionally, but not always, there is an unusual quick half second jerk or jump feeling when I first crank the car on a cold start. It doesn't happen all the time, just some times, but it has to be a cold start when I do feel it. What this could be? I'm thinking maybe some bolts weren't put tight enough when they installed the new transmission?
View 1 RepliesSituation: In automatic, coming off say a highway in the 30 to 50 km's (20 mph) range and then trying to accelerate quickly but there is a 1-2 second pause/delay/lag before it kicks in and launches.
It is not 100% consistent but it happens often enough to bother me.
Experience with this issue? What is the cause and is there a fix?
Looking at an RC for the first time and don't know a thing. I saw one comment "about drive by wire". Is there hesitation on acceleration from a start on these cars?
View 13 RepliesIt seems to me that the RCF is very poor at downshifting. I have owned the car for around 4 months now. If I am cruising along at around 30 to 40 mph and really push the pedal to the floor it honest to God sometimes seems to take a full 2 seconds to respond. It pauses, then downshifts and picks up a little speed, and then it finally goes. It drives me crazy! If I am already in a lower gear and punch it, it goes immediately.
View 14 RepliesNew owner for a 2002 SC, Made mistake when lowering top to hit trunk button, top has stopped half open half closed Light on lose button is solid red and if pushed blinks red but nothing happens.
View 14 RepliesFor the past few months when the vehicle is cold (by "cold" I dont mean physically cold, just mean it has been sitting all night in my driveway and it's still 90+ degrees outside) and I start driving, I seem to have this shimmy or shake in the tires/steering/steering wheel. Once my car seems to "warm up" (driving a mile or two) it goes away and my car is extremely smooth.
Could it be tires (I've tried rotating)? Suspension? Wheel bearings? I'm lost for even imagining what it could be. I don't believe it is engine/trans related, as it idles/revs just fine and shift perfectly...
I have 07 camry after having it jumped, I have no acceleration at all battery was disconnected.
View 6 RepliesI just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
I have a 2005 Subaru Outback, 3.0 H6, LL Bean, 5 speed auto. 150,000 miles. No engine codes.
I bought it took two years privately. I didn't notice during the test drive, but it has a shake/shudder at 18-20mph and at 55-60mph. Only at those speeds and only during acceleration. During light acceleration it isn't noticeable, but hard acceleration particularly on a hill at 55-60 the car can shake quite violently. Probably 50% of the time the 18-20mph shudder doesn't occur. It feels like the whole of the front of the car is shaking from side to side.
It doesn't matter what gear it's in - auto/auto sport/manual 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th. So it's not engine rpm related. I've had the transmission fluid flushed. I've had two sets of tires. I've had the prop shaft replaced. It still does it, and it hasn't got better or worse. It happens both during straight line and turns.
The engine runs smooth and the gear shifts are crisp and smooth. Our local dealer doesn't know what it is (they suggested prop shaft) and our highly recommended local transmission shop doesn't know what it is. All CV joints have been checked.
I think the big clue here is that it is very vehicle speed dependent; 18-20 and 55-60mph.Could it be something to do with the transfer clutches? Does this transmission have an electronic control computer that needs an update? (This is a first year model). Is there vehicle speed sensor used by the transmission that could be bad but that wouldn't trigger an engine code? Unfortunately I can't disable the rear wheel drive like on the 4 speed transmissions, there is no fuse to do that.
I'm relatively new to the 6.7 engine , I have a 2014 F-350 SRW with aprox 51,000 miles on it. Normal driving I see about 8 to 10 psi of boost even under moderate acceleration although at times it will go to about 18 psi at WOT and it does this with heavy loads. At moderate acceleration the boost will jump to 10 psi quickly but immediately stop there and sometimes as the RPM"s increase boost pressure decreases. Only issues I have had with the truck was a clogged EGR cooler.
View 2 RepliesSo I just got my first alignment done on my gli since I lowered it. Before I got the alignment it had a shake in the steering wheel in acceleration mainly but more often at higher speeds. I was hoping that it would ride like butter but it's still shaking. The alignment was pretty bad before I took it to the shop today but what could the shake be coming from now? BTW I installed Ecs tuning rear wheel centering plates last night and I'm about to install their adjustable sway bar end links because I noticed last week that the sway bar had been rubbing the axle some.
View 14 Replies1995 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 6 cylinder 3.4L 100,000mI'm not sure how to describe this any better, but while driving down a 55mph road my acceleration suddenly crapped out. I could still get it to go, but I had to put the petal to the floor to get there. Engine was a lot quieter, didn't have the same pep to it at all. No overheating and didn't notice a change in oil pressure. I've got a diagnostic appointment tomorrow but thought maybe I could get some ball park figures before I get there.
View 8 RepliesMy understanding, and it seems logical to me, that if you rotate the tires and do not reset the TPMS, the pressure and alarm would come from the wrong location. I have been told that the TPMS sensors are, serial number unique and the car needs to know what serial number is at what location.
Anyway, for a do-it-yourself guy to rotate the tires and have the alarms come from the correct location??
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The suspension in the back of my sonata is soft as a hush puppy. I'm 6'3", 225 lbs, my brother is the same and a couple of my friends are around the same numbers. When we get in the car, the suspension completely collapses and my tires are rubbing. How can I stiffen up this suspension? It's softer than the 2015 Civic we have and my 2015 Ghibli.. We can have 4 of us in those cars with no problem. I'm trying to make it this car more practical for me without getting into a full coil over system just so I can have a passenger or two in the back seat!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
Not long ago I fitted after-market rims to my 2006 Passat 2.0 FSI HighLine, I changed from 215/55/16 to 235/45/17 with Falken ZE912 tires, all new. The center hub of the Passat is 57.1(as far as my knowledge goes) and the wheel hub seem to be 66.6, the shop who installed my rims inserted a 57.1 to 67.1 poly-carbon hub rings which needed some force to fit into the wheel, the vibrations did not stop. All 4 wheel&tires were balances 2 times on one machine then a third time on a different machine just to be sure, still the same. I didn't preform a front alignment yet as i didn't believe it's needed, although right now ill try anything...
Anyway i then measured the rim hub diameter which seems to be 66.6. I bought a set of 57.1 to 66.6 poly-carbon rings, they also needed a bit of force to fit in the wheel, still there is no improvement and the car vibrate under acceleration. I would like to add at this point that i had no vibrations what so ever with the old rims and tires even though the tires were quite worn. I am thinking maybe i need the 57.1 to 66.1 size? Or perhaps i should use aluminum rings instead of plastic?
Is a size difference of 0.5 can make that much of a difference? I know an aluminum ring wont fit unless its the perfect size, and plastic are a bit more elastic meaning like in my case, they can fit in a smaller rim with a bit of force. Should I aim for a ring that fit perfectly without the need of applying force? Can it be that a 66.6 ring, fitted in a 66.1 rim is not eliminating the vibrations just because its off by a 0.5 mm and needed a bit of force getting inside?? I though that as long as the ring fits inside the wheel it will work but obviously its not..