Lexus RC F 2015+ :: Slipping / Hesitation In 2nd Gear When Car Fully Warmed Up
Apr 7, 2016
When car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
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I'm noticing just the slightest 'hitch' in power delivery in second gear at about 1,500 rpm. My speculation is that this is the torque converter locking up.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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Took my car to the dealer for it's 80K service and asked them to check the tranny because it's been slipping (hesitation) during upshift and occasionally banging into gear during downshift. I figured they would suggest the BG tranny fluid flush but got a call from the service advisor saying they found the fluid to smell burnt and it was black. 1999Pazzat V6...
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Looking at an RC for the first time and don't know a thing. I saw one comment "about drive by wire". Is there hesitation on acceleration from a start on these cars?
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Have a heavy steering feel on their 2010's with the 215 45/17 tires? It seems much heavier than previous Prius's and also have noticed that mine when it is really cold the steering wheel gets a little twitchy until it is fully warmed up.
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I traded in my 2015 for a 2016. I had the hesitation in my 2015 when moderately accelerating out of corners. So far in the last 1000 miles on my 2016, no hesitation.
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About a week and a half ago I took my 2008 ISF to Lexus to have them check out the ticking noise. My car has 63K miles on it and I notice the ticking noise after it is fully warmed up. I normally have just been driving it in Sport-Manual too. The sound seems to come from the driver's side fender well area and I hear it best when it is in drive in my garage or at a drive thru.
At first Lexus couldn't duplicate the sound even after driving the car. So I went to the dealership and drove the car about 10 mins for them to hear. The service advisor and a technician heard it this time. They had to call the regional Field Technical Service rep for direction on how to proceed. The FTS person recommend swapping the driver's side high pressure fuel pump to the passenger side to see if the noise followed the pump. I guess they've had problems in the past with the high pressure pumps on the LS models. I again went down to the dealer to drive the car and the noise stayed on the driver's side.
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So the problem is that when I turn fairly sharp I can feel the front tires grabbing and slipping a bit, especially on wet roads. I have the car at the dealership for the first scheduled maintenance and asked them to look at that. I know that 4wd vehicles can do this grab and slip because the tires rotate differently when engaged and turning tightly. The issue is that I never felt this in my EVO at all.
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3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
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I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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I read a similar post but no resolution. My '05 Equinox starts fine most of the time, but when I make a quick stop before its fully warmed up I have to slightly depress the accelerator to get it to start. Now I know with fuel injection this should't be happening but its been the case almost since the day I bought it. GM changed out the software in the computer and that seemed to work for a while, at least long enough for the warranty to end. It doesn't bother me but my wife wants the car now. What's up?
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Bought a 2007 es350 2 months ago and transmission shifted fine during test drives but now seems to hesitate when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear when not warmed up. Also seems to not engage at low speeds of around 5mph again when cold. Seems to shift normally when warmed up or after the the first couple shifts of the morning. Is it a simple fix or a prelude of something worse to come? Other than that I love the car so far.
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Over the past few week my truck has developed a knock once it has fully warmed up. At first I thought it was possibly injector knock and kind of got excited about the prospect of upgrading to larger injectors. Well, my short lived optimism came to an end today once I got ahold of my father's mechanics stethoscope. So today I let it fully warm up and like clock work the knock came back. After going over nearly every inch of the top end, nothing was producing what I was hearing.
So I crawled under the beast and located the source. Right where the bellhousing mates the the engine block is where the knock is definitely loudest. At first I thought it was louder in while in gear but today it didn't matter if it was in gear or not. I removed the bellhousing cover and inspected what I could see of the flexplate. Couldn't see and cracks or breaks but from what I see through google searches is that it cracks behind the spacer. Now my first thought is that it's the flexplate but I'm hoping more experienced people can tell me what they think.
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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I've noticed that under mid-throttle condition, there is a jarring lag when the car shifts from 3rd to 4th gear Always exactly from 3rd to 4th gear.. no other gears. The car will literally lurch as if the gas is cut momentarily. If the pedal is mashed to the firewall (which.. it frequently is).. then it shifts fine.
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I have only driven my car a handful of times, but I noticed the past two times, that it sticks in 5th gear during the time that the oil temperature finally gets above the 1/4 mark until it finally settles.
It doesn't stick before reaching the quarter mark, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't stick in auto mode. This doesn't sound like something that should be normal, but what say you?
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Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
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I was driving along today and my dash lit up light a Christmas tree. I got PCS, ABS, Brake and BSM lights and I was locked out of first gear in manual mode. Other than the lights and having to driving in auto mode, the car drove fine. When I got home I inspected the rear suspension and saw that the driver's side speed sensor's rubber shielding where it attaches to control arm was damaged. It was not completely severed, but there was a hole and some exposed copper wiring. I had SPC rear control arms and RSR coilovers installed and the car was lowered about 1.3 inches in rear. I was able to use extra copper wire and electrical tape to temporarily fix the problem. After all the wires where connected and shielded with electrical tape, I got zero lights when I started the car.
I'm not sure how it happened. Maybe the wire was damaged during install or it was pinched due to car being lowered. Whatever the case, make sure the wire is secured in a way to avoid being pinched during suspension travel. I ordered the new wire and will attempt to replace. Looks pretty straight forward except the wire goes into the interior of the car somewhere. I read that I will have to remove rear seats. If so, that should be pretty easy. Is there something I'm missing? Will any of the rear interior need to be removed? How to do this?
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