Lexus RC F 2015+ :: Idle Seems To Always Be Uneven / Fluctuating A Couple Hundred RPMs
Apr 7, 2016
I've been noticing that my 15 RCF idles a bit weird. Regardless if AC is on or not, the idle seems to always be fluctuating a couple hundred rpms - almost barely noticeable. Usually 500-700rpm back and forth. Doesn't really bother me but I wonder if it's just my car or if all the RCF has the same issue and if it was a sign of a bigger issue.
Doesn't matter which mode I'm in either. Of course it's only noticeable when there is the actual needle stick on the RPM gauge (eco mode and the gauge with the yellow doesn't show well).
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I sometimes have a weird idle. When my car is cold the idle is fine. When the car is warm the idle is fine. The idle only gets weird sometimes when I drive the car, park it for an hour or so, start the car again (temp gauge is about half way from complete cold start to complete warmed up) and I get a fluctuating rpm tach. It bounces around 50-75 rpms for a while. You can definitely feel it in the car and if you stand behind the exhaust you can here it slightly burp/hiccup. The car has 16k miles on it and it's a 2015. The gas mileage and performance has not changed. I don't know if it has done this since day one as I usually have my radio on. I heard it once now I make a point to see if it does it. I also don't have any CEL on.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm - a Toyota Corolla clone. It has about 50K miles and uses oil at the rate of about 1 quart every couple hundred miles. You'd think if the oil was being burned, it would leave a trail of smoke behind the car - or at least, the rear of the car would be covered with oil. Or if there was a leak, the underside of the car would be covered with it.
Nope, neither of those cases. No drips in the driveway, the underside is clean, no smoke. The only trace is that around the exhaust is a small amount of oily dirt - but it seems only slightly excessive - certainly not in proportion to the amount I am using. Where the oil is going?
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My 2003 F250 6.0 It started about a month ago and got worse. Let truck idle for 4-5minutes and idle will jump a few hundred rpms. Got worse as it idles and cant figure it out. It eventually died and died once while driving but starred right back up.
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So today I was driving to work and it was pretty cold out. It was about -22/-30 C with the wind. The drive is about 20 minutes in traffic. I to through drivethru and as I am leaving I notice that the temp dropped from about 90 to around 75/80. I then drive accross the street to work and the temp goes back up to 90. So I decided to sit there and let the car idle for a few minutes. Then the temp dropped again by about 10.
So I called the dealer and stopped by. All they did is take it for a test drive and do a scan to tell me everything is fine. By then the temp had warmed up outside and the issue was no longer present.
Having issues with fluctuating temp once your car reaches 90?
I know with my MK4 Golf 1.8T when I used to be in stop and go traffic the gauge would go down. So I replaced my thermostat and all was fine after that.
Do a modern car can a scan detect temp going below 90? Or could be a sticky thermostat?
It's a 2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
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Today morning I just noticed that while I was warming up my 2015 sonata 2.0T limited, I found there is uneven exhaust flow. Driver side exhaust has more flow than passenger side exhaust. I could feel flow barely from passenger side exhaust. I am just wondering if it is normal or I should take my car to service.
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Occasionally I can feel light jerking when cruising steadily at around 2200 rpm. for a second the rpms increase by ~50, not enough even to notice any change in speed, and then goes back where it was. it is as if the clutch was slipping.
My first thought was MAF so took one from a working car but problem did not go away.
A minor thing that may be unrelated: the transmission also sometimes doesn't set shiftpoints properly, i.e., when accelerating uphill, it would go from 1st to 2nd ok, then when it reaches the point to shift to 3rd, the 3rd gear stays only for a second or so, and then shifts to 4th.
So I disconnected the MAF sensor altogether and the problem went away! My conclusion was then that it must be the wiring between ECU and MAF, so checked the cables between ECU and MAF, found all resistances within spec (below 2.5 Ohm). Since the problem is intermittent, the resistance of the cables doesn't tell much.
Checked with vag-com and there are no codes. Where to go from there? 2003 AVH (auto)...
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1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
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I noticed last night while I was driving the idle speeds were fluctuating, it idled around 600-700 rpm, then would bump up to 850-900 rpms, then dip down to 500 rpms and then back up... the whole car would kinda shudder a little bit... I don't know if this is related but I had the engine running at idle for about 2 hours before driving it, and I observed the strange idle behavior after it had been running that long. My car also stalled twice... once while sitting idle and the other while I was in traffic (bumper-to-bumper, barely moving).
When normal driving, the car is great, just like it used to be, but at idle it exhibits this odd behavior. Does it have something to do with my engine running at idle for so long? Is this a problem I should be concerned with? And lastly...do I have to bring it in for another repair and possibly be without it for more days?
One other thing I ought to mention... I had just put gas in, 93 octane from Sunoco (this particular location I hadn't visited before, but i don't think thats the case) - could it just be bad gasoline? Or maybe could the shop I had left it with have put regular gas in while they had it...
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My 2000 V10 is throwing some codes. The truck drives great, the only thing I notice is the rpm fluctuating down at idle once in a while. It doesn't stall, just not smooth. Here is the log from my torque app that I saved yesterday while driving: Where should I start ? Clean the MAF first ? oxygen sensors ?
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175: System too Rich (Bank 2)
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0153: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
------------------------------<wbr>----------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.
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I have a 98 honda civic ex with the d16y8, have replaced the map sensor and iacv and still have a fluctuating idle only when car is warm or at operating temperature. it has dc sports racing headers into a straight pipe then exhaust tip. does not have any o2 seniors on it(wasn't my choice was like that when i got it) will idle up and down between 1700 and 2200 rpm also after replacing iacv the car jerk when going at low speeds or letting off then getting back on accelerator.
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Not sure if this is normal so I've found that my car is idling very low in rpm's and feels like the car is shivering along with me! (hint: its really cold here) I took a very short video [URL] ....
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I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
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I have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?
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00 XLT 4.6 4x4 135k miles - New problem, on accelerating, truck hesitates for a couple of seconds before rpm's pick up. There is no stumble or bogging. It feels like I'm not giving it any throttle at all. And then it kicks in and takes off. It does this from a stop at idle, or at a steady cruise. Its an intermittent problem. No CEL. Air filter and fuel filter are about 3 months old. Haven't done any work to it since. Also, when there is less than a 1/4 tank of fuel, truck sometimes stumbles slightly off idle. Fuel pump starting to go?
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
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So any ICP sensor been proven bad but i was not leaking oil? The symptoms of my truck sound similar to a bad ICP...fluctuating idle, surging, stalling, but it does run and start. IT tends to start acting up when it hits operating temp.
I have an 04 and the ICP sensor is in the easy spot to get to on the valve cover vs under the turbo (that's awesome) so its an easy swap. but just wondering if there is any way to test it over simply swapping it. I do not have a monitor yet but a dongle is on order and will get the torque app for my tablet.
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After the engine is warmed, my normal idle in drive, park, neutral, or reverse is around 650-700 RPMs.
I have recently noticed that when a combination of conditions occur, my idle hovers around 450-500 RPMs and is pretty rough. This low, rough idle occurs when:
1) The car is in drive;
2) The car is at a full stop (foot on the brake or auto-brake hold);
3) All accessories are off (heated seats are off, radio is off, headlights are off); and
4) HVAC is Off.
I went to the dealer and they ran diagnostics. No error codes were recorded. The dealer looked at other ls460s and said they all do that. By the way, I noticed this after my VSR was done.
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I just changed my alternator because it was making a whining sound off/on, then just went completely dead. I got it back from the shop and that certainly fixed the problem. However, I now notice a very faint high pitch ringing from idle to 2.5k rpms or so, I hear it more so in the cabin. Also, if I hold at 1,500 rpms now the engine vibrates and stumbles right at that holding point, it didn't do that before. Is there a chance that this remanufactured alternator could be the problem?
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