I've noticed that under mid-throttle condition, there is a jarring lag when the car shifts from 3rd to 4th gear Always exactly from 3rd to 4th gear.. no other gears. The car will literally lurch as if the gas is cut momentarily. If the pedal is mashed to the firewall (which.. it frequently is).. then it shifts fine.
View 14 RepliesES350 Transmission - I have the following issue that has happened to me twice now.
When it's cold outside (around -10C or below), I start the car and let it run for about 1 minute. I pull out of the parking lot and drive down the street for a very short distance and stop at the intersection and wait to turn left. This only happens when I wait for a minute or more. I go to turn left and the car feels like it has no power and stays in 1st gear all the way up to 4000 rpm and then shifts. After this the car is totally fine and it shifts at the normal 1500 rpm or so going about 15km/hr. When I'm sitting at the intersection waiting to turn, the car is idling at about 1200 rpm or so while the car is warming up.
I've tried many times to recreate the issue but I couldn't do it because I never let the car sit and idle. If it's constantly moving with stop and go it's fine.
I called the Lexus dealer to ask about this and they told me the first thing to do is change the transmission fluid because it could be low or dirty. The car is 6 1/2 years old (July 2006) with 58,000km on it. They said the transmission fluid should be changed at the 6 year interval. They also asked me if I had the car in the shift manual mode (which I didn't) because it seemed to exhibit this behaviour.
I have only driven my car a handful of times, but I noticed the past two times, that it sticks in 5th gear during the time that the oil temperature finally gets above the 1/4 mark until it finally settles.
It doesn't stick before reaching the quarter mark, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't stick in auto mode. This doesn't sound like something that should be normal, but what say you?
When car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.
Recently I switched from Revo software with 440cc injectors to Unitronic with Siemens 630cc injectors. After swapping, the car has developed a hesitation issue. It only happens when driving a consistent speed in one gear, for example going 45 in 5th, the car will feel jumpy and hesitate to accelerate with a seeming loss of power. Replaced spark plugs with new ones and the problem still persists. Problem never happened with old software and injectors.
View 2 RepliesI'm noticing just the slightest 'hitch' in power delivery in second gear at about 1,500 rpm. My speculation is that this is the torque converter locking up.
View 14 RepliesI was driving along today and my dash lit up light a Christmas tree. I got PCS, ABS, Brake and BSM lights and I was locked out of first gear in manual mode. Other than the lights and having to driving in auto mode, the car drove fine. When I got home I inspected the rear suspension and saw that the driver's side speed sensor's rubber shielding where it attaches to control arm was damaged. It was not completely severed, but there was a hole and some exposed copper wiring. I had SPC rear control arms and RSR coilovers installed and the car was lowered about 1.3 inches in rear. I was able to use extra copper wire and electrical tape to temporarily fix the problem. After all the wires where connected and shielded with electrical tape, I got zero lights when I started the car.
I'm not sure how it happened. Maybe the wire was damaged during install or it was pinched due to car being lowered. Whatever the case, make sure the wire is secured in a way to avoid being pinched during suspension travel. I ordered the new wire and will attempt to replace. Looks pretty straight forward except the wire goes into the interior of the car somewhere. I read that I will have to remove rear seats. If so, that should be pretty easy. Is there something I'm missing? Will any of the rear interior need to be removed? How to do this?
A little background: My 2015 DSG is just shy of 40k miles. I have recently the DSG fluid hoping it would fix my issue. I also have a DSG tune, but the problem has been around well before the tune.
So here's the intermittent issue.
When I leave a corner or from a stop, the DSG tries racing toward 6th as quick as it can and even with my pedal beyond the 50% margin. When it does and my window is down, I can hear a slight squeak when it shifts, and you can feel the hard engagement of the gear. What the issue could be or what could be causing the squeak? I also get a slight vibration under WOT in 5th and 6th at low RPM's. I am thinking its either the mechatronics unit or the clutch packs that are prematurely wearing out.
I leased my 2015 Sonata Turbo w/ Ultimate Package back in November. Experiencing flare ups between shifts in the transmission. Every once in a while, specifically when cold, I will get a slight hesitation and slip in between gears 2 and 3. It doesn't happen too often, so I'm not that concerned about it..just wanted to see if others have seen the same thing.
View 4 RepliesI'm currently running with vwr lower sport spring. The ride in the front seems to be okay, but the ride in the back is so horrible I must say. Bumpy and jarring over uneven paving as hell, the ride in the back is so uncomfortable compares to the front. I'm thinking of trying with aftermarket struts and shocks as Koni or Bilstein. Should I bring it to the dealer and have them check the suspension? I'm a bit hesitated since having aftermarket springs installed.
View 22 RepliesI now have 1025 miles on my SE with the 2.4L. I will admit that I drove the car very easy during the first 800 miles. The car has always wanted to shift into higher gears way too quick even in normal mode. I was told that the computer may have been "trained" to be being a conservative driver. I am not a speed racer, but I do not drive like I have nowhere to go either. I have tried driving a little more aggressively (holding down the throttle and making it shift around 2500-3000 rpm when I can), but it still has not worked. When I make a certain turn and up a hill, the car chugs up the hill until it finally decides to downshift into a lower gear and it will finally go. If in sport mode, it does fine. I cannot leave in sport mode however because I do a lot of freeway driving and it will not shift into overdrive in sport mode, at least my car don't which I find odd??
Another problem area is when I first start out, I go up a grade on a highway. I have to literally press the pedal down about 3/4 way to even get it to speed (55 mph) within a reasonable amount of time... it was only around 2300-2500 rpm and I was almost flooring it. I pressed down the pedal more and it finally kicked into a lower gear and hit up to 3300 rpm and finally took off. Something is not right and I am not happy with my brand new car that I paid almost $19,000 for. I enjoy driving my 1991 Cadillac more than I do this new car and it is a heck of a lot faster than my Hyundai. I do love the MPG I get with the Hyundai... around 31 mpg on average versus 19 mpg on the Caddy.
I just don't know what is going on with my car. I am wondering if I need to get the computer reset or something?
I have an '09 LS 460 AWD and there is a very unlike Lexus knocking sound at idle to maybe up to 20mph. best way I can describe is to imagine a diesel engine at idle, and dilute it substantially. subtle but clearly there. i read here in CL that could be due to valves or such, but dealer insists it is because of the intentionally designed "oversized fuel pump and fuel injector" and completely normal.
View 7 RepliesI just took delivery about 2 weeks ago of a 2011 LS 460L AWD with less than 30k miles. I have a very annoying issue that happens every time I let off the accelerator. There is a consistent vibration that seems to be coming from the drive train. It's really annoying to me. This occurs when driving about 50 mph or greater, nothing when driving at slower speeds. There is a 30 day exchange policy where I bought the car from, hope I don't need to use it.
View 14 RepliesAfter tune-up to my 2000 RX300 (105k miles), car came back with clicking noise under dash... took back to repair shop they agreed sounds like morse code, or like rain falling. They examined under hood and said they don't know source, but that the work they did couldn't be causing it. They said could be drive belt and/or pulleys, or clutch on AC, or alternator bearings... that it doesn't look like any major issue. I brought the car in for a tune up and it came out with this annoying noise. Do I keep pushing them to figure it out what the did and correct it? Or do I trust them that additional work/expense needs to be made? What could the noise it be? It appears spread across the whole dash, but under the hood just sounds like a consistent clicking noise near the belts.
View 9 RepliesI've noticed that I don't get a consistent engine roar from my sound generator when I throttle hardly. I get more of a roar when the engine is cold and I floor it. Any other time I accelerate hard it doesn't sound like my sound generator is working.
View 5 RepliesGot my shifter in yesterday installed it today, had a few throwbacks but Jim was able to iron them out, except for one. I can go through all my gears, even reverse, but when I put it into "1st" it puts me in 3rd and it's sluggish taking off. I'm going to take it all apart tomorrow and try it again.
View 1 RepliesMaybe I am paranoid, but recently I pushed power close button on the lift gate and a family member then also pushed the lift gate shut. Is it possible that the lift gate is broken now? It seems to work fine, but if I listen carefully I can hear some what seems to be grinding noises at the very top. Do the other RX power tailgates make a consistent sound throughout the open and close process.
View 6 RepliesWhen accelerating hard I seem to have to consiously let up on the gas prior to clutch actuation in order to avoid having the engine "overshoot" a couple hundred rpm between shifts. Is this normal for the 1.8t?
View 1 RepliesSo I sea foamed the passat vac/intake 2 days ago and car drove fine then did oil change 1 day ago 5/30 all I had with additive resline. Since then car revs then shifts into gear or stays in wrong gear until I rev the car. Never had problem shifting until now. Low oil pressure or electrical issue from sea foam vacuum leak.
2002 VW Passat 2.8 AWD
Having a very pronounced hesitation/slip between 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. It happens in both "D" and "S" modes. I've had the tranny flashes and they fixed the throttle hesitation and the general harsh shifting. Still have a slip when going from 2nd to 3rd.
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