Lexus RC F 2015+ :: Acceleration Pauses And Takes Time To Respond
Sep 15, 2015
It seems to me that the RCF is very poor at downshifting. I have owned the car for around 4 months now. If I am cruising along at around 30 to 40 mph and really push the pedal to the floor it honest to God sometimes seems to take a full 2 seconds to respond. It pauses, then downshifts and picks up a little speed, and then it finally goes. It drives me crazy! If I am already in a lower gear and punch it, it goes immediately.
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We've just had our first few autumn days where a heavy dew settles on the car when the temperature drops in the evenings. When I left the restaurant last night, the moisture was so thick on the outside of the glass I couldn't see out the rear window. I turned on the rear defogger and it was soooo slow. It took five minutes before you could start to see the wire lines in the glass appear and 20 minutes to clear. None of my other Lexus' have been this slow to clear the rear window.
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I have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
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I'm kind of up against the clock. I am sure this answer is in a book in the car. But that book looked pretty thick.
My husband just told me that he did not want to take my car to the ball game because he can't stand the cruise control turning off every time it gets even close to a car (yes, I understand what this may mean, but I'm not driving with him and he is a grown man).
Is there a way to disengage the automatic turn off on the safety cruise control feature? He likes to be the one in control I suppose.
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Situation: In automatic, coming off say a highway in the 30 to 50 km's (20 mph) range and then trying to accelerate quickly but there is a 1-2 second pause/delay/lag before it kicks in and launches.
It is not 100% consistent but it happens often enough to bother me.
Experience with this issue? What is the cause and is there a fix?
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Looking at an RC for the first time and don't know a thing. I saw one comment "about drive by wire". Is there hesitation on acceleration from a start on these cars?
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My dad purchased a new 2013 Nissan Frontier 4wd in June 2013. On occasion he has issues with acceleration in that he steps on the gas to go (from a full stop), or steps on the gas to speed up (and pass) and the accelerator does not respond. After anywhere from 3-10 seconds it will lurch forward and go. This is an inconsistent/random occurrence. He has taken it to 2 dealerships and they can't seem to find anything wrong.
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On rapid acceleration from standing start-- RC- F does not have a smooth transition. Tires jump and shake for half a second before car has even acceleration. Even with traction control turned off this happens. WHAT IS THAT ALL ABOUT ????
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Today, for the first time, my 2007 CRV suddenly failed to respond to an acceleration attempt after I had to suddenly press on the brake on a highway. Both meters seemed to respond and moved in some way but the car was either non-responsive or was slowing down. It all took 30-60 seconds until the car went back to normal on its own without even stopping. What could have caused it? Normally, I would probably wait until it happens again to start worrying but since I drive with my child most of the time, I don't want to take any chances.
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My A/C hasn't been seeming too cold lately. It works, it just takes a lot longer than I remember it last summer to get cool. I checked my low-side port using a "EZ chill" gauge I just bought. Doors open, AC max cold, hi, recirculating and it was about 35 PSI - which I think is supposed to be about right.
But I've seen it's dependent on ambient temperature . It was 90 degrees outside. According to the "EZ chill" gauge, it suggests 45-55, which seems way to high to me.
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Often times, after the ICE has fully warmed up, there is not enough stopped time at a red light for the ICE to go down to 0 RPM and enter stage 4. Would switching to "R" force the ICE to stop sooner and thus enter stage 4 sooner?
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No codes, no obvious troubles other than, when I use the power window control on my 99 passat to control the driver side rear window, I have to hold the button down sometimes for 1 second, sometimes for 15 seconds before it actually moves. If I try to operate the window from the actual button on that door( the rear door), it works fine with no hesitation or sticking. No, the safety lock is not on. I am guessing it is something electronic but as there are no burnt fuses or damaged wires, I am left confused.
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Now that the summer has finally arrived the southern Finland I found a problem with my climate control. When the car gets hot from the sun and the climate control starts cooling it takes up to 2 minutes until I get cold air from the vents. It doesn't matter if I let it run on the AUTO-mode or that I turn the temperature all the way to the LOwest position with full "thrust".
I checked the service history of my car and the AC has been serviced and filled last summer. (the basic fast service method). I didn't want to service it again since I'm afraid that all that money would have gone to waste. I haven't found any leaks tho. The radiator is pretty beaten up from all the debris and road salt tho.
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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I have the jbl stereo and when I start the car it literally takes 2 solid minutes or so to connect sometimes i have to turn the radio off and then back on to get it to connect always has done it. Tried with other phones also i use a iphone 6.
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So lately I've been noticing that it takes a really long time for my water temp bars (on the dash) to go down to 0. At first I noticed this during the same time I discovered I had coolant leaking from the valley plate. I took the car in and had that sealed + fresh coolant added, but I'm still noticing that it's takes a really long time for the coolant to cool down, and I'm talking about leaving the car untouched for 3 or 4 hours, and the bar is still half way at operating temps, meanwhile the oil bar is completely at 0.
It hasn't been hot at all in SoCal lately, so I don't think this is attributable to weather. I checked the surrounding of the radiator and there doesn't seem to be a buildup of gunk that decreased air flow. During normal drives on city and highway, the temps are completely fine and don't seem to exceed the normal operating temp.
At this point I'm wondering if there's an issue with other supporting components like the temp. sensor, radiator ran, maybe the water pump?
Other relevant info: MY2011, 67k on the odometer.
Recent leak at valley plate, was resealed and fresh coolant added
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As of yesterday evening my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 1500, shuts off while im driving. Takes about two to five minutes to get it going again (has shut off a couple times) Starts up fine idles great, problems start about a mile or two of being driven.
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I'm bench testing my starter and wanted to make sure that it's working as it should before I install it. The plunger comes out and the gear spins as expected, but it takes a second for the gear to pop back in after I disconnect it. I'm worried that it might get stuck on the flywheel if the return spring isn't working as it should.
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From stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
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