Lexus RC 2015+ :: Rear Defogger Takes Too Much Time
Oct 18, 2015
We've just had our first few autumn days where a heavy dew settles on the car when the temperature drops in the evenings. When I left the restaurant last night, the moisture was so thick on the outside of the glass I couldn't see out the rear window. I turned on the rear defogger and it was soooo slow. It took five minutes before you could start to see the wire lines in the glass appear and 20 minutes to clear. None of my other Lexus' have been this slow to clear the rear window.
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It seems to me that the RCF is very poor at downshifting. I have owned the car for around 4 months now. If I am cruising along at around 30 to 40 mph and really push the pedal to the floor it honest to God sometimes seems to take a full 2 seconds to respond. It pauses, then downshifts and picks up a little speed, and then it finally goes. It drives me crazy! If I am already in a lower gear and punch it, it goes immediately.
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I have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
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My GX and I are in the south and I sometimes have to leave it parked outside all day in 100F+ temperatures during the summer. Needless to say it gets extremely hot inside and sometimes takes a while to cool down. I started using my rear AC on full in conjunction with my main AC to facilitate cooling off the interior of the vehicle. I do this even when I'm by myself because... if I'm not mistaken... the rear AC uses a completely separate unit including a separate compressor. So it seems that it would cool things down faster running both systems. Can verify that the rear unit is completely independent of the main AC system?
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Im using my rear heat for the first time since I purchased my new GX premium, it seems that the rear heat takes forever to finally get warm and its really never hot even at the highest temp. I think overall I find that the gx takes awhile to start pumping out hot air compared to my RX, but I don't think its normal for the front to be blowing hot and the rear to still be cold. I already took it Lexus and they said it was all working fine.
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I'm kind of up against the clock. I am sure this answer is in a book in the car. But that book looked pretty thick.
My husband just told me that he did not want to take my car to the ball game because he can't stand the cruise control turning off every time it gets even close to a car (yes, I understand what this may mean, but I'm not driving with him and he is a grown man).
Is there a way to disengage the automatic turn off on the safety cruise control feature? He likes to be the one in control I suppose.
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My rear defogger stopped working this week. Just checked the fuse and that's still good. Where should i go from here?
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Rear window was replaced now the defogger does not work.
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I am not sure, since now, that my RWD has ever worked, the fuse is fine, the light comes on, the lines on the window are not broken. No defogging. Connections seem good everywhere.
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I tinted my Prius v's rear hatch window with SunTek CXP film yesterday morning. When driving at night with the tinted window, there are streaks of glare along rear defogger lines caused by the headlights behind me.
For v owner with tinted hatch window.
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My rear defogger stopped working after I got the car back from collision repair. I'm trying to see if I can resolve this matter by myself before having to take it back. I've noticed that there is no rear defogger contact on the power grid. None that I can see anyway. I was trying to locate a manual or where it was located if there even is one. Or Why my defogger stopped working.
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A couple of days ago I noticed that one of the elements in the upper rear window defogger/defroster isn't working. It's the fifth one from the bottom I believe. All the other elements on the top and bottom seem to be working correctly. Is there a way to correct this without taking it to the dealer?
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One side of my rear defogger wire has detached from the window. It detached right at the metal clip and window. I will not solder (due to possibly breaking the window). Have tried all kind of epoxies & bonding agents - will not work.
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My rear window defogger has stopped working. The owners manual, page 316, has the 3 fuse box locations and it says there is a 40 amp fuse in location #2 in fuse box under dash (says there is a 30 amp in location #1 for power windows). When I popped the cover off the fuse box and looked - there are NO fuses greater that 25 amps anywhere. Windows work fine. in addition - none of the actual fuse numbers line up with what the manual says or with what the inside of the fuse box cover says.
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My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
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My A/C hasn't been seeming too cold lately. It works, it just takes a lot longer than I remember it last summer to get cool. I checked my low-side port using a "EZ chill" gauge I just bought. Doors open, AC max cold, hi, recirculating and it was about 35 PSI - which I think is supposed to be about right.
But I've seen it's dependent on ambient temperature . It was 90 degrees outside. According to the "EZ chill" gauge, it suggests 45-55, which seems way to high to me.
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Often times, after the ICE has fully warmed up, there is not enough stopped time at a red light for the ICE to go down to 0 RPM and enter stage 4. Would switching to "R" force the ICE to stop sooner and thus enter stage 4 sooner?
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No codes, no obvious troubles other than, when I use the power window control on my 99 passat to control the driver side rear window, I have to hold the button down sometimes for 1 second, sometimes for 15 seconds before it actually moves. If I try to operate the window from the actual button on that door( the rear door), it works fine with no hesitation or sticking. No, the safety lock is not on. I am guessing it is something electronic but as there are no burnt fuses or damaged wires, I am left confused.
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The rear windscreen should be removable or tilt up at the very least!! Any foolproof solution or tool they use to thoroughly clean the rear window without having to resort to a significant level of foul language that would bring even this ex-sailor to tears?
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Taking off? Possibly for a diffuser install or any other reason. The reason I ask is because (now that I am not upgrading to an RCF) we are going to attempt an LFA style exhaust on my current RC F-Sport. We will be starting off using an RCF rear bumper due to there being more room in the area where the stock diffuser usually is.
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Now that the summer has finally arrived the southern Finland I found a problem with my climate control. When the car gets hot from the sun and the climate control starts cooling it takes up to 2 minutes until I get cold air from the vents. It doesn't matter if I let it run on the AUTO-mode or that I turn the temperature all the way to the LOwest position with full "thrust".
I checked the service history of my car and the AC has been serviced and filled last summer. (the basic fast service method). I didn't want to service it again since I'm afraid that all that money would have gone to waste. I haven't found any leaks tho. The radiator is pretty beaten up from all the debris and road salt tho.
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