Lexus RC 2015+ :: Hesitation On Acceleration From A Start
Sep 1, 2015
Looking at an RC for the first time and don't know a thing. I saw one comment "about drive by wire". Is there hesitation on acceleration from a start on these cars?
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I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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I traded in my 2015 for a 2016. I had the hesitation in my 2015 when moderately accelerating out of corners. So far in the last 1000 miles on my 2016, no hesitation.
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When car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
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I'm noticing just the slightest 'hitch' in power delivery in second gear at about 1,500 rpm. My speculation is that this is the torque converter locking up.
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My dad recently bought a 2011... He says now there is a hesitation on acceleration?? Don't know if it was always like that or not he's owned the used car only a few months.
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As I have experienced hesitation on acceleration from a stop, I found a TSB # L-SB-0154-10, that addresses this condition for the 2010 SC430. It was issued in 12/1/2010. I am not sure if it would apply to any other years. The TSB entails re-flashing he PCM with updated software.
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It was the fuel. I had been experiencing a hesitation when going from a cruising speed...to WOT (wide open throttle) situations. The car would kind of just hang there for a couple of seconds, not really going anywhere. This situation was a bit - I wouldn't call it scary - but I would call it something I needed to be concerned/mindful of when pulling into traffic or switching lanes on a highway, etc....it made you have to take into account how much more space you'd need to do such a maneuver.
Well the problem is gone, it was the fuel. And it was my own fault. I was buying Super one week, then supplementing mid grade the next...mixing the two and lowering the octane level. Plus I was buying the gas at a station that was cheap. My logic was that I drive 600 miles a week...I'm trying to save a few bucks, etc...the guy I bought the car off of said he was doing the same thing with the fuel (and he's a Lexus tech)...and for the most part I didn't notice much of anything in loss of fuel mileage, etc.
The hesitation wasn't something that really bothered me because I usually don't find myself in situations where I have to mash the gas pedal into the floor, but I did want to know why the car was acting like that. After reading through a bunch of threads I came upon one post that said most of the time it's the fuel, but there is a reprogramming procedure as well. For me it was the fuel. I know others have solved an entirely different problem with the quality of their oil (TGMO).
So if you're going with a lesser grade of fuel...yes your miles per gallon won't really change...and no you won't be able to tell much of a difference...but don't be surprised if your car doesn't want to move in hard acceleration situations for a spell (I imagine it's the knock sensors kicking in).
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I just purchased an l/certified 2013 RX 350 (34K miles) this past weekend. I did not notice these issues on my test drive. I've started to notice that when taking my foot off the gas pedal (while not resting near the break pedal) the vehicle goes through a series of easy coasts and then some resistance (as if using an engine as break on a truck with a manual t,) then returning to a smooth easy coast.
I've also noticed that when accelerating at a slow speed from stop (I'm in traffic) there is a bit of a hesitation, like turbo lag, yet this has no turbo. The lag seems to be there even if I want to accelerate aggressively.
I hate to get tied up with a dealer service department already.... "Cant duplicate," or "that is normal operation," or "Computer codes check out." Looking for reinforcing information so I don't have to take it in once a month for an unknown amount of time.
Of our three other cars (2015 Prius, 2002 Nissan Altima, and (pre-tran fail) 2002 honda odyssey) none experience anything like this.
Our household is dumping a 2002 honda odyssey for repeated transmission failures never covered with goodwill. All service was at a h dealership and manufacturer schedule was followed. I'm already sensitive to the manufacturer/dealer relationship.
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Situation: In automatic, coming off say a highway in the 30 to 50 km's (20 mph) range and then trying to accelerate quickly but there is a 1-2 second pause/delay/lag before it kicks in and launches.
It is not 100% consistent but it happens often enough to bother me.
Experience with this issue? What is the cause and is there a fix?
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It seems to me that the RCF is very poor at downshifting. I have owned the car for around 4 months now. If I am cruising along at around 30 to 40 mph and really push the pedal to the floor it honest to God sometimes seems to take a full 2 seconds to respond. It pauses, then downshifts and picks up a little speed, and then it finally goes. It drives me crazy! If I am already in a lower gear and punch it, it goes immediately.
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On rapid acceleration from standing start-- RC- F does not have a smooth transition. Tires jump and shake for half a second before car has even acceleration. Even with traction control turned off this happens. WHAT IS THAT ALL ABOUT ????
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So...I got my RCF 2 weeks ago and since then I have experienced normal crank and start or just little delay crank and start, just now after stopping by somewehere for about 30mins got back to the car and experienced almost 5 seconds crank and then started...I used to experience the same with my RC350 but it wasnt a crazy long crank, what could be the cause to this issue? I have also seen some videos online of some RCF starting up (usually exhaust videos) and I can hear the same little delay crank on some of them.
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We have a Tundra and several of my work vehicles that have the remote start that utilizes the stock key fob. Is there a way to do this in a 2015 IS 350 F Sport?
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Happen a few times already. My RCF had problem starting at night only after parking for a couple of hours. During the day the car start fine and never once have starting issue. The problem is when I press the start button the car will try to start then die immediately. Second and third push will be required before the car would start. Is this a problem with fuel pump? I don't hear any noise issue from the fuel pump that others have reported. I notice that this starting problem only happen at a particular hotel that I play tennis at after work. The hotel is at sea level our day time temp is mid to high 80's. At night it is low 80's. Our humidity is quite high at 80%+.. Going to have the car checked on next service.
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I have been experiencing a slight hesitation when I accelerate from a stop. It almost feels like its going to stall for a brief second then it picks up and accelerates normal until I'm at a complete stop again. I have the 2016 sport with the standard 2.4L. I currently have 2200 miles on it now and when I go in for my initial suggested oil change at 3000 miles ...
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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I like using the App that starts the car before I head outside the house. It's great so I don't have to sit inside the car while it's freezing.
But I hate it when I open the door, it stops the engine.
Any way I can keep the engine on while I enter the car when I started the engine with the App?
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I posted a related video in the fuel pump thread here where the high whine noise is apparent several seconds after a cold start. Now from inside the cabin, looking at the revs, the "sewing-machine-like" whine disappears above 1200 rpm.
High-pitch noise below 1200 rpm - YouTube
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I have a 2015 IS 350 F-Sport with just under 9K miles. Occasionally, the car takes a little longer to start with a few more cranks. I've never had to push the start button twice. Once, it really seemed to struggle to start, but it did. I've had the battery/starter/alternator checked at 2 different local auto stores, and everything checks out fine.
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It'll do okay when I am not flooring it, but when I do floor it there's a pretty noticeable lag and then VROM it'll take off like a bullet... This car has a manually operated throttle control, are there any adjustments I can make to make the truck more responsive? 2.4L 4Cyl....
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