My RC just hit 22k miles a couple of days ago. This morning when I went to turn on my car, it took a couple of extra cranks for the car to turn on. I am dropping the car off tomorrow at Lexus.
View 2 RepliesA lot of videos have audio of a knocking sound, however my sound is more akin to an extra crank of the starter. It's intermittent at best, and I thought it was actually use error until I noticed the sound occurred a few times even when I briefly cranked the engine.
View 2 Replies2015 F350 6.2, 4 door 8' bed FX4...... 17,200 miles.
This morning when outside to start it (nice sunny morning) and turned the key and all the dash lights went on and also went crazy. Said it had all kind of problems on the dash, Trac system, Over heating and so on. The starter did not crank over at all. Tried this about 8 times in 45 minutes, no worky. Call Ford, they towed it to the dealer. I last drove it 2 days ago. All stock, no programmer.
Took 06 GS300 to dealership for no start. They say it might be the starter and replaced it, and it wasn't the starter. Frustrated, I pulled it from the dealership, took it to a mechanic i have a little faith in. He was unsuccessful. He mentioned that he was able to get it to start briefly, but quickly died. I guess he bypassed alot of electrical stuff.
Everything seems fine, until I press the ignition and get nothing. No warnings, nothing. One thing to note, I had a problem keeping the negative battery terminal on. After a great deal of use, it would slightly slip off the battery, so i would have a dead car. I would just tighten and drive on, then it would slip again. I say cause I think maybe something got zapped.
Well I dunno what to do. I tried to start the car many times. The starter (or what ever part it is) seems to crank over and over for about five seconds and then stops. Nothing. Battery is fine. Everything electrical powers up. Just not the engine.
I just recently had the complete timing belt service done and oil change about two weeks ago. That's about it. Now I am a sitting duck tonight....
So...I got my RCF 2 weeks ago and since then I have experienced normal crank and start or just little delay crank and start, just now after stopping by somewehere for about 30mins got back to the car and experienced almost 5 seconds crank and then started...I used to experience the same with my RC350 but it wasnt a crazy long crank, what could be the cause to this issue? I have also seen some videos online of some RCF starting up (usually exhaust videos) and I can hear the same little delay crank on some of them.
View 9 RepliesAfter not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
I've bought new starter cleaned starter contacts battery contacts jumped it bypassed the ignition and relay but taking a wire and touching the positive to the signal wire..used jumper cables as a direct ground to to the starter the torque converter spins so it's not seased...I don't understand what could possibly be stopping this thing...it's just one click like the starter is jumping out but not enough power to turn... 2002 Jetta 1.8t auto
View 18 RepliesAfter 4.5 years of service my car battery seems to have died. On turning the key the starter clicks but it does not start. I jump started it yesterday. It worked fine. It won't start today again so I checked the battery hygrometer. It is green. I checked the water level. It is full.
View 9 RepliesMy jeep is 6 months old. From day one it has erratic starter problems. Often when starting it, the starter keeps on cranking after I let go of the key! The ignition switch visually returns to the run position, but is electronically stuck in start mode. When this happens I quickly shut off the ignition and try again. Jeep cant duplicate the problem, and says Chrysler has no bulletins about this.
View 3 RepliesSo I've been having some extra wind-noise from my driver side window when I am driving 50+ m[h. So at my oil change this past week, I noted this with my advisor and she said they would look into it.
Long story short I get my car back Wednesday and everything is taken care of, Windnoise is gone, aluminum side plates fixed and they even filled my tank. from 1/4 to full.
Flash forward to today, Friday. I noticed that my driver and passenger front windows had some stickers on them, noting that they were made in japan and only the car owner can remove them, I also notice there is a haze. I drove about 100miles in the last 2 days, mostly right at the crack of dawn and just before dusk. But today Friday it was ultra bright and I realized there was no tint on my front windows.
Lexus had actually replaced both the driver and passenger windows due to the excess windnoise, which to me is crazy, cause it really wasn't that bad. I called my service advisor about this issue, before I had releaized they replaced the windows and she said they should of re-tinted them and that they forgot too, so bring my car back in next week.
Long story short, Lexus is pretty awesome and I cant believe they replaced the windows for some wind noise. I honestly wouldn't of had them do that and spend all that money for something so insignificant, but kudos to them.
I replaced the starter in my 2001 dodge grand caravan two days ago with a brand new TYC 1-17784 starter motor. It starts fine the only thing is that it has a higher pitched sound when starts. There is no grinding noise and the high pitched sound does not continue once the engine is started. The starter did not come with a shim but I used the shim from the old starter. I am wondering if maybe the sound will go away once it gets 'worn in' or perhaps this is a non issue that I shouldn't be worried about.
View 4 RepliesSo months ago, my wife reported the starter wouldn't crank, but after a few tries it did and the car started right up, no issues since then. I figured she didn't push the clutch in far enough.
Two weeks ago, the car threw a code for the Cam position sensor and was making some funky noises (hard to describe, almost like a rattle inside/beneath the engine) and started bouncing at idle. I replaced that within a few days and cleared the code, but the noise persisted as well as the idle (but not all the time).
Then last week it was still ratting around with no codes, but died on the highway and had to get it towed home. It would turn over, but wouldn't start. After fiddling a while and trying to start it a bunch, it would no longer turn over, so I figured the battery didn't have enough juice. Trying to jump it, I got sparks like you wouldn't believe. I actually started a small fire, and I hooked up the cables correctly too! I checked all the cables, made sure I was doing it correctly and tried again, same thing. So then I researched and saw that can be caused by a failing battery. Sure enough, the battery was 7 years old, so I went and replaced it. Still no start.
A few days later, checking more at home, it had spark, I can hear the fuel pump turn on, timing belt is in good shape, and the throttle is opening (electronically controlled). Still confused I bought a HEX+CAN and here's the results for Engine:
3 Faults Found:
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
P0113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small
P1543 - 35-00 - -
17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low
P1172 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101
So after taking apart the throttle to check it to make sure that it indeed was opening like the vag-com said it was, I put it back together and now the car won't crank. Well, I've been testing it for a while, so I figured the new battery was starting to get low, so I went to jump it and I almost started another little fire. The jumper wires heat up like crazy too. Their is no continuity between the negative and positive terminals on the battery, so I'm not sure what's going on.
I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. The starter does not crank at all. I put the key in and turn it and nothing, just a click. I have replaced the starter/solenoid with a new one and I have charged the battery and it is good (battery is only 8 months old). It still does not crank, nothing.
View 19 RepliesI've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
View 3 RepliesI have a '99 Passat with the 1.8T and auto trans. that does not always crank over, when you go to start it. Most of the time it cranks over and starts just fine, but there are times when you turn the key to the "start" position and nothing happens. Sometimes you have to turn the key back and forth a few times to get it to start and other times just holding the key in the "start" position for a few seconds and it will start.
I've checked the starter and every time that I applied 12 volts to the terminal 50 at the starter, it worked, but if I go back to start it with the key it goes back to random cranking. I removed the ignition switch and bench tested that with an ohmmeter and it works every time. Do I have something going on with the Starter Interlock Relay?
Starter clicks wont crank...
View 2 RepliesReplaced battery with good battery, terminal post, tested starter (twice), verified that 12V is switched to solenoid by ignition switch, cleaned all contact surfaces, etc. but starter still will not crank.
View 2 Replies1997 Toyota Camry V6. The car won't start, the engine won't crank. I've checked for 12v constant at the starter and that's good. Next I checked for a 12v trigger at the starter. That wasn't present at the starter.
I went to the starter relay. Pulled the starter relay and tested it by applying 12v across two terminals and checked for continuity across the other two. It checked fine.
So I checked for constant 12v into the starter relay, that's present. Checked for 12v trigger into starter relay, that was present also. Next I jumped 12v through starter relay terminal into the starter and the starter cranked the engine. Next I checked for ground into the starter relay, I didn't have continuity.
So I'm guessing it's either a bad ground wire coming into the fuse box or maybe even a bad fuse box? Is my thinking correct? Or is there something else that it could be? Maybe a main fuse or something, IDK, this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this.
What wire is the ground source for the starter relay? I found a wiring diagram from Chiltons (which I've attached to this post for reference) but I'm not really sure which wire is the ground for the starter relay. I don't have the car or relay in front of me to look at the terminal numbers.
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3.5L 224,XXX Miles. About a month ago, the car refused to crank, while out but was able to be jumped and started twice. After it was jumped, the analog gauges refused to work and the transmission shifted hard for about 5mins, then returned to normal. Once it was back in the driveway, it hasn't cranked since, no starter function.
The very first thing I replaced was the Ignition Switch, after replacing, nothing changed, no crank. I then had the battery replaced and the starter bench tested, it tested good. I then tore into the engine bay and cleaned every ground. I found that grounds G113 had the insulation rubbed away but the wire was still connected. I then removed the tape, inspected the harness as far as I could aether way and only found that. The wire and ring terminals where replaced about 6inches into the harness. (NOTE: when I had the pcm disconnected, G113, G117, G119 the key functions function normally, ((I'll explain later)). I then reinstalled everything, reinstalled all grounds after cleaning them and using dielectric grease. No change.
Things I've observed wrong: when the key is in "ACC" the cluster blinks and relays click at a high speed. The fuel pump also works the same way. You can make it stop by using the left or right blinker, then the "PRND123" indicator will light. With key "on" the ipc functions normally but there is no "PRND123" indicators, no fuel gauge reading. With key on "CRANK" the relays behind the radio area click once, the dash goes dark, but the radio and climate controls stay on.
I've DVOM'd a lot of fuses and most check out except: dashboard fuse labeled "crank" has ~3V when the key is on acc/on but 12V when on Crank. Under hood fuse box checks out except the IGN MAIN relay and its fuses "ABS/FIJN/OXN.." they only read 7-8V, with the relay removed, the relay reads same voltage too. No other fuses affected. I checked the "Crank voltage C2, pin 23" at the PCM and only got ~3V with key on crank, but 9V with key "on". I CANNOT jump the "crank" relay, it does nothing.