Lexus RC 2015+ :: Amplifier In The Trunk Shorted Out
Feb 16, 2016
Well, i dropped off my car to the dealer on Friday because i had no audio what so ever, i checked the fuses and they were all fine. The dealer called me today and said the amplifier in the trunk shorted out, they are ordering a new one from Mark Levinson and will have my car til at least Wednesday. I've only had the car for 4 months and the audio settings were on default.
Oh and I'm driving around in a crappy NX 200t, the body roll on this car is ridiculous.
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I know this has been done, but how the do you pop out the light from the trunk? Do you have to push inwards from the side to release the clip?
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I got home at 12pm, I parked my RCF in the garage. At 10pm I walk into the garage to grab something and I heard a noise, weird noise, what is that? I thought. Sounded like a one of those small air pumps to pump up the tires.
Suddenly I noticed that the noise it was coming from under the RCF trunk. And after 15 seconds stopped.
The care were parked for 10hrs, what it was?
I heard some people reporting fuel pump problems but while the engine is running.
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I've noticed that when I open the trunk from inside the car, the trunk lid opens and raises up. When I open the trunk using the key fob, it only unlocks the trunk, but doesn't raise the lid. It's odd, is it just my car? Or can this be changed so the trunk lid raises when using the key fob. I didn't see this covered in the manual.
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We just purchased a 2015 RC350 F Sport for my wife and had it out in some heavy rain today. Water is somehow getting into the trunk.
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For everyone that has hooked up aftermarket amplifiers to the stock system, what source did you tap into for the remote wire? I know many people have tapped into the fuse box, others the cigarette lighter wire, and some people have even found wires in the trunk to tap into. I'm curious as to what route people took and why, because I'm looking to move away from the remote turn-on feature of the LC2i.
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I was changing my interior lights with led bulbs on my 2008 lexus ls460, when I briefly shorted out the courtesy light on the the passenger door courtesy light while changing the bulb. Afterwards, the 194 led light was dim on the passenger door while all the other doors and dome were bright. I ran a multi meter test and found that it was only giving 9v.
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I am the new owner of a 2015 ES350 and I've found that my trunk can be opened using the button under the trunk lip even when I don't have the key fob in my possession (my 2014 Dodge Charger does the same thing). How to prevent anybody without the key fob in their possession from accessing my trunk?
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Trunk not open all the way when using the button on the remote, inside the car, or the smart sensor? It is pretty useless if your hands are full and the trunk opens a few inches and you still have to manually open it the rest of the way.
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I got extra rubber strip. All you do is put it at them bottom of the trunk lip all around. It will reduce water pouring into the trunk.
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2016 2.4 limited. the trunk takes a lot of force to close....
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I have had my car for a week and use the trunk every day. Tonight the trunk wouldn't open. Brought it to service and they were just closing, but technician looked quickly and didn't know problem and told me to come back tomorrow. I called Blue Link and they didn't have a clue either. I tried the remote, the trunk release in the car and the release under the trunk itself. I hear a click but it won't open. I even tried the second remote.
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I went from 2014 Sonata Limited to 2016 Sonata limited. Have had the 2016 for a day now. On balance I like the changes with one exception. On the 2014 if I had Keyfob in pocket there was button underneath trunk lip I could press to open trunk. On 2016 that button is gone. Trunk is to automatically open after x seconds if Keyfob is present.
The problem is the trunk will automatically open as I walk past trunk to enter driver door. Then sometimes if I want to open trunk it never opens when I am standing next to it. I think they thought this was a cool upgrade but it is worse. I may have to turn that feature off.
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I have a 2015 sonata sport and every time I close my trunk it makes a long beep sound and then goes off. The sound is almost like if you close the car door and leave the keys in the car, almost like a warning sound.
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I have a new 2015 Accord. After a recent rain storm I found about an inch of water in the well where the spare tire is stored. I took it to the dealer and they ran numerous leak tests but could not reproduce the problem.
Since the car was parked during the storm, I don't see how the water could have gotten in there except via one of the light assemblies or by getting past the gasket. In other words, it wasn't blown up into the trunk from the roadway. The puzzler is that the carpet in the car was dry when I found the water. I googled this for hours and I don't find others with 2015 trunk leak complaints. All the complaints are for earlier model Accords.
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My husband's 2001 Buick LeSabre had an ignition module and one ignition coil replaced in March. Yesterday, the car broke down, and the mechanic told us that the new ignition coil shorted out the other two coils. Is this believable? We've been using the same mechanic for several years because we trusted him and have heard a lot of good things about him, but this seems kinda fishy. This car is not one of the GM cars that was recalled.
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I am in the process of installing my JBL-MS8 amplifier.
I am having a hard time finding a source of switched power. I thought I could easily access the cigarette lighter power. When I removed the side access panels, the seat heater vent was in the way.
Any good place to access switched power? Is there an easy way to get to the cigarette lighter power?
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I am installing a two channel amplifier and a dc to ac power inverter and was wanting some suggestions on the location. I was thinking of maybe the center console but was concerned about papers and what not I keep in there from preventing the items from staying cool.
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I have a 2000 F-150 supercab with a 4.6 in it and I am having all kinds of problems after accidentally shorting the battery positive post to the negative power for several seconds. The series of events is as follows.
The previous owner must have had an amplifier installed or whatever for a car stereo the empire was left in the engine compartment and while doing routine maintenance accidentally arced it across the + & - battery posts where is moving around and arced for over ten seconds st least.
Now when I fired the truck up after this had opened the same title fine maybe a slight Miss but it idles fine. However whenever you lay into the throttle even when in park it just cuts out and has a severe misfire is what it seems like. It seems like several cylinders are dead. Along with this the overdrive off light is flashing constantly. Now when I put the truck into gear and drive the the damn thing just spiders and spits and barely takes off and doesn't improve at all it never shift out of second gear and it barely runs at all just sputters and spits the whole way down the road.
Here's what's been done. I assumed it was an ECU problem so I went to the salvage yard and pulled one from donor vehicle same year same Powertrain it was actually an expedition but other than that it was the same I then flat bed the truck to the Ford dealership to have the ECU reflash do to the fact that it would turn over but never start after installing the new ECU from the donor vehicle. I picked it up today from the Ford dealership and surprise surprise I still have all of the same problem. So the ECU was obviously not the problem. This morning I have proceeded to replace every fuse and relay in the entire vehicle. And still my problems remain. So now I have plug in my CP 9185 Actron Elite Auto scanner and pulled the codes of which it had 18 of. Now I am leaning towards the fact that it's probably not all 18 of these sensors or whatever burned out. Here is the list of codes as they come across on my scanner tool.
P1747 pressure control solenoid"A" circuit short
P0750 shift solenoid "A" malfunction
P0755 shift solenoid "B" malfunction
P0743 torque converter circuit electrical
P0443 EVAP control system purge valve fault
P1451 EVAP control system vent control circuit malfunction
P0135 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction 1/1
P0141 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction 1/2
P0155 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction 2/1
P0161 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction 2/2
P1401 differential pressure feedback EGR ckt high input
P1549 intake manifold comm cntrl ckt error bank 1
P1000 OBD systems readiness test not complete
P0740 TCC circuit malfunction
P0753 shift solenoid "A" circuit electrical
P0758 shift solenoid "B" circuit electrical
P1760 pressure control solenoid "A" Intermittent circuit short
P1460 wide open throttle A/C cutout circuit malfunction
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Where the factory amplifier can be found in a 1997 Chevy Suburban LT? MY Suburban still has the original radio with tape deck and with the 1-disc CD player under the A/C controls. I have already replaced all 6 old '97 speakers with new ones, and I would also like to install a better aftermarket amp with a sub woofer.I looked inside the rear quarter panels, under all seats, underneath the middle console.
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I bought toyota navigation system part# : 86120-06450 (e7009) from ebay, which JBL amplifier will work with it (my car is non jbl) what is the part number of an amplifier work with that unit.
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