Lexus LX 2008+ :: Suspension Stuck On Low Position - AHC System Warning
Oct 23, 2013
I'm wondering what could be causing the 4-Wheel AHC System to fail on a 2009 LX 570. The vehicle is currently stuck in the low position.
"Check 4-Wheel AHC System" dialog on the dashboard and the ride height switch fails to do anything.
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06 330 4WD Replaced control arms, tied rod ends, ball joints and had aligned. Now it somehow appears that the suspension is stuck in the high position, there is no movement in the front struts. It sounds like there is no motion from any suspension components. Feeling a bit stupid here...everything looks correct. So Disconnected battery and suspension is actually active now. But each corner is at a different height, will not return to Normal or low position
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I am having a problem with my rear suspension. The indicator lights on the dash (for the rear suspension control) are working correctly as are the controls on the center console, however the rear of my vehicle is stuck in a high position.
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I have a 2010 LX and the third row seat on the driver side got stuck in folded position. Warranty on these parts is over.
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This morning on my way to work it was quite cold (~2 degrees F) and my car had some snow left on it from yesterday's snowstorm. I warmed the car up and had the rear defroster on.
When I went to use the rear wiper to clear some snow it got stuck in the down position and won't work. I tried manually clearing any snow and now the rear window is clear but the blade still won't move. I turned it on and off several times and nothing. I turned the car off and on again and still nothing.
Is it possible the motor is fried? This is a 2010 RX with ~68k miles.
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Both passenger and driver front windows get stuck in down position. What do you think the problem is and can it be repaired by me?
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My son who is away at college, has a 04 F150 that has a center console and he can't get the truck to shift out of the 'Park' position. I told him to try and rock the truck back and forth and then try again...no luck.
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Put the driver side rear seat down and now it won't come back up. It feels as though the latch isn't connected yet I can see the cable wrapped on it still. Need to tear into it... do the backs of the seats pop off?
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I had a question regarding the rear sunshade. Currently my sun shade is stuck in the middle position and it is very annoying and also is reducing my visibility in my rear view mirror because the bar is in the middle of my view. I took it to my local dealer and they said just to put it in the lower position would cost $800-1000. Does this seem fair ? I didn't break it, and why should I have to pay for something that is a malfunctioning part. The worst part is my rear view mirror is also turning black in the inside of the mirror also reducing my visibility ?
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I just got a new-to-me 2007 4.0L Explorer . When I turn the ignition to the on position, I get a message that says "Check charging system"...
Once I start the engine it goes away. Is this normal?
My battery reads 12.6 with the engine off and 13.8 with it on.
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Is there any way to replace the stock nav system with something that is easier to use and more up to date and works? I did upgrade the disc and it's still a pain to use. My Iphone does a much better job, is easier to use. Also can upgrading the stock suspension on a 2003 SC 430, I got it a couple of months ago with 24000 miles but would like better handling but would like to keep the ride decent.
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2008 Prius touring model, owned since Dec 212. Brake system warning light went on when our rainy season started and went off briefly, but is now on all the time.
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I have a P2440 code from warning light- Secondary AIR System Switching Valve A' Stuck Open. This started to appear when I took it into the dealer for other issue with transfer case whining when in 4x4. Can this code be associated with something the mechanic did , would they remove any sensors or wires, that may not have put back. Not happy. Are these trucks know for this code? Estimate cost?
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My navigation system sucks!!
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I haven’t been on these boards very often since getting my used 2008 Prius because until now it has been very kind to me in terms of not needing mechanical repairs. Unfortunately that good streak seems to have come to an end. Driving home Monday evening (after ~30min freeway driving), my master system warning light came on, accompanied by the hybrid system warning light. I didn’t know what the latter was – had to look it up – but I immediately pulled to the shoulder. The car was driving normally, however. Since shops and dealers were closed for the evening, after much debate I ended up having the car towed to a family friend’s body shop; they were still there and had a scanner to check the error codes for me. My car was on the side of the freeway for well over an hour with hazard lights on and the dome light on and off occasionally as we got in and out of the car. By the time the tow truck arrived, I discovered that the 12V battery seemed dead; car wouldn’t boot up all the way, wouldn’t shift to neutral and didn’t want to power down – I had to try turning it off upwards of 10 times. I was surprised, given just the hazard light and limited dome light usage. We jumped it, got it in neutral and on the truck.
At the body shop, they said there were no error codes related to the hybrid battery; something about transmission that wasn’t clarified, and errors for low voltage on the 12V battery. With everything off, it measured 10-something V; something higher when turned on, but they believed the problem was a dead 12V battery. I was surprised that it would suddenly give out in the middle of driving, but we went ahead and replaced it the next day. I picked up the car Tues evening, and had no problems driving it home, to work the next morning. Unfortunately, during my drive home – strangely at almost exactly the same location as the first time – the same hybrid system warning light came back on. I’d driving about 70 miles with it off at this point before the reappearance. This time I didn’t pull over to the side (had enough of that before) but rather drove a few more miles to a parking lot where the car has now stayed overnight. I note that the car seemed to drive perfectly normally during that time; no loss of power.
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How to test reverse warning system sensors? My truck about 75% of the time, once i put it in reverse the system goes to off. I assumed a sensor, but can't find any major resistance differences in them.
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I have a rattle coming from the third row seats when they are in the stored position. It is mainly when I hit rough roads and uneven terrain.
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Was just mulling over redoing part of the exhaust system on my truck. As it stands the original y-pipe is still intact but some bozo reduced the rest of the system down to 2.25 inch with an ancient glasspack for a muffler. Maybe he thought it would net some kind of benefit, maybe he was just throwing together parts from his backyard. Either way it's going, I'm planning to keep the Y-pipe but step it up to 3 inch with a Flowmaster chambered muffler and I just suddenly wondered if the position of the muffler in the system affects performance. If I put it directly after the Y-pipe the exhaust pulses would hit it sooner...
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Today I received a “CHECK AWD SYSTEM” warning message. Car seems to be driving okay.
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Noticed the warning indicator on dash, linage of a battery, this morning. Thought maybe battery needed to be replaced? So got replacement battery and installed it, but warning light still on.
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I checked the air in the tires on my 2008 350 ES with an outside temperature of around 40 degrees. Pressure gage read 25 lbs. I decided to add pressure to bring up to 30 lbs. Subsequently while driving, the Trac & VCS System malfunction warning symbol came on (the picture of a car with wavy lines behind the tires). Of course, the warning symbol of a red triangle with an exclamation symbol in the middle as well as a check engine light also came on.
I figured that the problem was that the combination of cold weather (for Houston) and the added air pressure resulted in the system interpretation of an increased skid or lack of control situation. So I let some air out to where the pressure in each tire is 27 lbs. Then I drove it 5 miles or so at speeds up to 50 mph. Made no difference. Warning symbols still there.
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