Lexus LX 2008+ :: Mid Pipes For LX570 To Fit Directly To LongTube Headers?
Sep 1, 2014
I have a lx570 2013. I bought Doug Thotley's Longtube Headers. I haven't install yet, But I am about to.
I need to get my self a set of mid pipes that would hook directly my Doug Thorley's LongTube Headers and into the oem cat back.
I looked around it I found this set. Link Below: [URL]
Also, a friend of mine of mine has a LX570 with JBA long Tube Headers (Titanium), He also wants a set of mid pipes to fit directly to his Jba long tube and into his oem cat-back.
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I got this hankering to re-do my exhaust while my truck is all dissembled. My true dual has been a mistake since day one. It never gave me that deep growl that I wanted, and I miss my old cat back. Anyway I thought of an idea that would give me my one muffler back with plenty of air going into it. Check out the pics, and let me hear it. I will be leaving the pipes coming out of the headers alone, that way I don't have to buy doug thorleys expensive y-pipe.
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Just picked up brand new LX570 a few days ago, however I could not turn off the front air conditioning even though have tried so many times of pressing the A/C icon on the screen.
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I'm four weeks into my 2010 LX570. From first day, I've had vibration/shaking at all speeds--the shaking/vibration is not in the steering wheel like a few others have described. The vibration/shaking is similar to what one experiences going over a railroad track in a small/lightweight vehicle, except it happens on all types of roads and at all speeds.
Two trips to two different tire installers and one trip to Toyota (the closest Lexus dealer is a couple hours for me) to speak with their Lexus-certified mechanic and it was chalked up to the Dunlop tires. The Dunlops had excessive road force (three were between 28 and 45). Three separate sessions with Lexus Customer Relations, and nearly two weeks with Lexus of Orlando (they were extraordinary, even though I did not purchase from them), all four tires were replaced with Michelins, road force balanced to less than 8 each, and the vehicle extensively tested. They bent over backwards and were exceptional. While the problem has been minimized, I still feel the vibration/shake.
I'm coming out of years with several Range Rovers, but every other vehicle I have does not vibrate/shake, from my Tundra on up. I just spent two weeks in an ES300 and it was rock solid, at half the weight and half the cost. Additionally, none of my Land Cruisers (previous generation to the current) were anything like this. The LX is a great vehicle, but the vibration/shake is a real issue.
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My horn fuse on my 2011 LX 570 keeps blowing after first use of horn. What could be causing it?
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Having problems with my rear power liftgate on my 2011 LX570.. When it is open if I press the close button on the rear door it closes then beeps twice and opens up again. Every thing is clear by the door jam and all of the pieces look fine (nothing bent). When I close the door manually I can hear the lock cycle so that is engaging.
This feels like an electronic problem. The button on the dash and on the key fob only work intermittently to open the door and neither will close it. Yes the rear door off button is not engaged either.
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I just purchased a brand new 2016 LX 570 two weeks ago. It is a beautiful car and I love all the new technology but I am concerned about the transmission gear change between 2nd and 3rd. The car hesitates and vibrates when shifting between second and third gear then levels out. It a little slow and scary pulling out in traffic without just punching it. This is my first LX and just found out that the LX transmission went from 6 speed to 8 on the 2016 model. I called the dealership and they said the car is very new and they have not gotten any reports from Lexus about the transmission hesitating. Taking it in next week for service and have it checked out.
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Just got a 2010 LX570 and the rear hatch doesn't open with key remote or close when button is pressed, just beeps twice.
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Every morning when I start my LX570 it starts with the idle higher that normal and then after 1 or two minutes is settles.
Along with the higher idle there is a little extra noise from the engine, after 2 minutes the noise goes away and all normal.
Is this the way they start in the morning?
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i cant find the dyno post but didnt the isf make more power with headers and stock exhaust?
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Deleting the cats from the stock headers ? would there be any power gain or loss ?
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Headers will probably be the next mod that I do to my F, I have read a good bit about them on here, but no one really says anything about how they are doing long term ( any issues from heat on engine bay plastics after years of use) or how the coating holds up after years of use as track or DD or just anything else that seems to be an issue over time after being installed.
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PPE Engineering has been getting lot's of inquires from us ISF owners about the feasibility of making an Equal Length Header for the ISF similar to the one they make for the RCF. Since I am a past customer, live nearby, have another vehicle and am a pretty nice guy they called and asked if I might be interested in having my car test fit for Equal Length Headers.
While discussing this with them, I suggested that if modified RCF Headers wouldn't fit, maybe they could accomplish the equal length task by using long tubes. Well, it seems that RCF headers will in fact fit in an ISF, and the headers they built for me were also Long Tube. How sweet is that? But, the EL, LT headers must be used with the PPE Exhaust due to the exit point of the collector.
I went for Dyno testing yesterday, and it appears I lost 7HP at the top end and gained only 1.5 lb ft of torque at the high end. I also gained grunt at the bottom. My Seat of the Pants tells me the car is faster.
I don't know why it ran out of breath at the high end. Nothing else has changed.
PPE Headers
PPE Dual Mode Exhaust - With HiFlow Cats
Takeda Intake
As far as sound goes, in the cabin with the exhaust open, the drone remains in the same area (between 1900 and 2100 RPM) but is much lower in volume. I can now carry on a phone conversion (with bluetooth hands free) with the exhaust in the open position. The volume level does increase, however, when under acceleration through that RPM range.
Now the ISF does not have a lumpy engine by any means, but it idle with the old headers, the sound (both inside and outside the car) had a sort of lumpy growling quality to it. The sound is now very smooth, again inside and outside. The harmonics seemed to have changed.
Edit - My wheels and tires have changed. I'm now running RCF wheels with larger 295 vs 285 rears, so wheel weight is up a bit!
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how much HP is there expected to be with adding high flow cats?
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I had my local race shop install my new PPE headers and how I have a rubbing and grinding sound while taking right turns. They have had the car for a few extra days and they say they cant seem to find the cause of the problem. It rattles on a pot hole, it grinds on right turns and sometimes vibrates on highway cruise control driving.
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I replaced my headers and added slp loud mouth 2 side exit now my truck is throwing every evap code o2 codes and p0010 & p0020, There is 17 codes total. The headers are obx without cats. Also added 80mm bbk throttle body and some brisk racing plugs with hot street coil packs. Truck run with all of that stuff fine but when i did the headers and cat back everything went wrong.
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I'm doing PPE headers right now but stuck with steering shaft I removed 1 bolt in the car and 2 in the engine bay on the shaft.... but there's just not enough give to slide the shaft out. I need a crash course on this thing pictures photos or whatever would be nice.
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I went to dinner tonight and on the way home I noticed white smoke, coming from pipes. It's 42 degrees outside. I didn't notice any from any cars I saw beside me. I saw it when I got home. It didn't have any smell to it at all. It just felt warm. My girl friends car was not making any smoke either. I have never seen any during the day when it was warmer out.
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Just picked up a Ctek 3300 battery charger for my 2008 LS460L since we only drive it a few days a week. Is it safe to connect directly to the battery under the hood?
Where is the ideal spot to jump start on an LS? Reason I ask is that my BMW 6series have the battery at the back trunk but for any charging or jump starts it must be done under the hood where there is a terminal that goes to the battery.
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I would like to install headers on my 95 GT, but have never done this on any vehicle before. Is it just a matter of removing the old exhaust manifold, and reconnecting the new header? Any tricks, or surprises??? Also, any recommendations on brand, and or website to order from. I do not want to drop a lot of money, but do want to get at the very least a decent quality product. Also, can this be done without getting under the car? I can get under the front end for oil changes, etc., but do not have access to a lift at all.
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Ever since I got my car back from service at a car shop 3 days ago, my gas pipes have been falling fast, getting half the distance I used to. The weather is the same, my commute/miles are the same, my driving habits are the same (hypermiling more or less), and the trip consumption on the MFD is normal. My average is 52.5 MPG. The only thing that's changed was getting my car maintained and they used synthetic motor oil for the first time but that should make no difference.
Dont know why I'm seeing my pips drop at a 2x rate.
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