Lexus LX 2008+ :: Comparison Of Toyota And Escalade
Nov 9, 2013
So the LX and Landcruiser have shared platforms over the year but I've always wondered why Toyota / Lexus never released a stretched version of the trucks like an Escalade ESV or Yukon XL, etc? I know the trucks currently seat 8 people but the 3rd row is a little tight except for little kids. Also, if you have the 3rd row up, then the trunk space is all but gone. For example, with the Escalade ESV, with the extended version, the seats in the 3rd row are laid out just a little better than the 3rd row in the shorter truck version so it's a little more comfortable. And the trunk space in the stretched version is way more than the normal version.
Of course, the Escalade is not sold in other countries where it's seriously taken off road. I know that it's mainly a US vehicle that roams the crazy parking lots of many upscale malls whereas the Land Cruiser / LX570 is primarily the same in the US but it's also sold in many foreign countries where it really is used off-road and having a stretched version is not really the best for off-road maneuvering. Even so, I think Toyota/Lexus would sell more of these vehicles if they did develop a stretched version. Maybe call it a Landcruiser XL or LX570 XL..
Actually if Toyota made a stretched version, I'd say calling it a Land Bruiser would be more appropriate. I certainly would love an 8 seater LX 570 with the larger trunk area and possible better sitting space with the stretched version. Couple this with the Lexus quality and reliability and Lexus would give the Escalade ESV some decent competition.
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I just gonna buy a new car. How this two car compared? I have test two cars, and like ford's handling, while Prius drives like a toy. Also ford seems safer than Toyota.
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I bought a new 2008 ISF back in the day and acquired a 2009 M5 with 6,000 miles late last year.
My ISF has headers, exhaust and throttle control which absolutely changed the car from a Lexus to a contender, consider the mods with the following comparison. I enjoy my M5 a lot, it is my out of town car- drives great at 180, corners well, solid, roomy (being from Vegas I can fit 4 bodies in the trunk)..I can go on about all the positives.
However, the F is faster with the mods, better ergonomics, and has fewer repair issues. It feels like a go cart. It pulls the 5 until it hits the limiter. As there were only 500 or so produced each year.
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I have a 2008 GTI, black, DSG - I love this car, best I have ever had. It has worked flawlessly - never in the shop for anything other than routine maintenance. Anyway, my lease will be up at the end of the year and was considering either buying out the lease or getting a new 2011 model. What's new and "improved" in the 2011 model?
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So I recently got a 9006 8000k HID Kit off of E - bay and I'm planning on installing it in place of the stock HIDs. However , I just realized that the stock HIDs have a D4S ballast and connector which do not fit the 9006 HID kit that I just got.
So should I remove the old D4S ballast and put in the new kit, or buy D4S bulbs that fit the stock ballast ? Also, the driver side headlight is flickering and goes out at times so I don't know if the stock ballast is acting up.
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I own a 2009 Cadillac Escalade (no I don't write rap tunes) and for the past 5 years it has been an excellent vehicle to drive. It still is, but under certain conditions I am experiencing a shudder which lowers the confidence that I usually have in my vehicle. Specifically, when I am climbing a hill and the transmission is in a higher gear, say 4th and the RPMs are relatively low, say 1800, I feel a shudder as the car goes up the hill. When I let my foot off the gas the shudder stops. If I manually shift into a lower gear and raise the RPMs, the engine responds with power galore and I climb the hill without any effort and without any shudder (most of the time). The engine is smooth and is not sputtering when this shudder happens. I do not hear any unusual sounds under the car when this happens.
I took it to the GM dealer and they did all they could (analyzed the car for codes, monitored fuel flow rates, searched for GM bulletins, etc) but their response was "we experienced the shudder but cannot find the issue - bring it back when it gets worse". I read that BG44K will do a good job of cleaning the fuel system in the engine so I tried that but nothing changed. I have about 50K miles on the car and did my 50K maintenance just before a cross-country trip; on the way back from this long trip is when this issue started. The 50K maintenance included changing the transmission fluid and cleaning the filter (not replacing it), changing the differential oil, the transfer case oil, engine oil and filter, inspecting the vehicle, etc. I will continue to drive the vehicle and will bring it back to the dealer if it gets worse, but I'm wondering what I'm supposed to do if it never does and I continually experience this shudder. Or what happens if it gets worse all of a sudden and I'm unable to drive the car up a hill at all?
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2005 Escalade-rear tail lights-water in tail assembly. Bulbs blew. Replaced bulbs. Will not come on when I turn on headlights. They do come on when you depress the brakes and when you use the hazards or signals.
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I have a 2003 Escalade that I have maintained since day 1. Occasionally when driving the car it will say system disability and reduced engine power, which drops the speed to 20 and I can give all the gas I want it will not go. Happening on and off for 5 months. I can shut it on and off a couple times and it will go back to normal. Have taken it in a couple times to dealer and they have drove it and drove it and it behaves. They believe it is the Throttle body and sensor. But for the price of it, just replace the fuel pump 2 weeks ago, they suggest to see it happening to give me a 100% diagnosis. For now they believe it is that. Should I fix it or wait till it happens and slowly putt into the dealership.
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My husband and I are considering getting a small SUV. We've narrowed our choices down to the 2012 Tiguan SE 4-motion or the CR-V EX-L AWD. I'm working on a pro/con analysis between the two. I've looked through some threads here, and would like to get some updated opinions from current owners.
Why would you pick the Tiguan over the CRV or vice versa?
I'm a long-time VW driver, so I'm naturally leaning towards the Tiguan. The Honda is slightly less expensive to start, and gets slightly better gas mileage, potentially translating into a few $1000s in savings over the VW during the life of the car. We have no real experience with Hondas. My mother has an Accord and decided she hates it after about 1 year. I do think it's mainly because she liked her Subaru and only traded it in because my father hated it.
Some more background info:
This would become my husband's daily driver and his Wrangler would become our third/weekend car. We're in no rush, and may decide to just keep the status quo. My husband commutes 40 miles per day, so better gas mileage is a plus. We have a Lab who will ride in the car pretty often, but we will buy a waterproof seat cover for the backseat of whichever car we get.
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Is there any difference between the 2010 v6 and the 2011- 2016 V6's ? Reliable? Highway gas mileage? Maintenance issues to look for? Is there anything you know that would keep me from buying this vehicle?
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Since i bagged my car and i didn't bought the swaybar end links to fix it it to my air struts, when i got it installed the swaybar got removed.
Now as my swaybar is off i might upgrade, my question is, Is an h&r front swaybar much better than an OEM one, and if yes should i pick a 26 or 28 mm o e (what's the difference, pipe size?)
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This chart compares what my C's computer calculated for MPG to simple arithmetic. Seeing consistent optimistic numbers from your computer like I am?
The average error is -2.7 mpg and the STD is 0.85 mpg. So the error is fairly consistent. I also have shown the gallons purchased, but there is no correlation to mpg error.
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How do I turn the "fuel consumption comparison" off? I want to see only the quantity and price off the gasoline I have consumed.
There isn't a "disable" feature, so I am guessing I set it to 0 mpg?
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In your opinion what looks better on a R. Classix or Denvers? Need to decide what i am going to run for winter.
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We have both a 2005 Golf TDI (150,000 miles) and a 2001 Passat GLX (100,000 miles). We need to reduce our number of vehicles, so we need to sell one of them. The question is, which one?
The Passat is a rare manual transmission version and is in immaculate condition. The Golf TDI is a reliable and efficient workhorse. (I no longer have the 35-mile commute that caused me to buy the Golf in the first place.) We love both vehicles and can't decide which to sell. Both vehicles are garaged.
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2011 Honda CRZ emission test result from EPA is out. I am providing comparison graphs with other hybrids. Enjoy!
Non-Methane Organic Gases
Carbon Monoxide
Nitrogen Oxide
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I have a 2008 Toyota Rav4 all wheel drive that has 80,000 miles on it. It's been having a lot of problems lately, namely the water pump. I got it replaced at our local mechanic's about 3 weeks ago and all was fine until I tried to turn on the heat last night. Only cold air blew out and then came on intermittently and then just stopped again. The fan works fine, it's just not blowing hot air. Not sure if this is related to the water pump being replaced? Do I need to flush the heater core? There is no leakage. I am really getting annoyed with all the issues the car has been having lately and don't want to spend a lot more money to fix it at this point. How much would it be to replace the heater core?
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I have a 2006 Corolla w/ 136K miles and a 2008 Versa w/ 81K. I'm looking to replace one of them, but am unsure which I should keep. The Corolla has been very reliable but is starting to need a lot of work (brakes/struts/etc.) and the Versa has been ok but overall has needed more maintenance.
Whichever one I keep I will probably drive until it's dead but I really don't know which I should stick with. My instinct tells me it should be the Corolla, but I don't want to keep having to sink money into a high milage vehicle. On the flip-side, I have never heard people speaking well of the Versa, and keeping it might end up costing me more and lasting a shorter time.
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My 2008 Avalon A/C fan speed periodically won't run at the highest speed. When I take it off of "auto", I can step up the fan speed and see the segments on the display light up with each increase in speed. Each segment lights up (they are in a oval shape) indicating that it should be at the highest speed, but it just doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to.
I think this fan motor is controlled by a PWM controller rather than resistors. Is that correct and where I could find the PWM controller? My thought was that if it was not too expensive I would change that out first. If the fan works, could there be a problem with the fan motor?
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Prius, 08, smart key.Dead on Sunday am --- nothing works. Not even with key in slot. Put trickle charge on the underhood postive and neg to body bolt. Got enough juice to open rear hatch (and dome light comes on )
Replaced with toyota battery. Neg cable took off first, then pushed up out of the way behind carpet.
Still dead. Still nothing. Checked both batteries at Autozone. 94 and 100% --- wasn't battery in the first place. Checked clear window fusible link on top of pos post --- still good. Can get locks and lights to work with trickle charge, but NOTHING if disconnected.
Now what?
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We have a 2008 Toyota Sequoia with 60k miles. We purchased 100k mile warranty when we bought the car new. The past year or so, the car will stall just after starting. There is no rhyme or reason as to when it will do it (hot, cold, morning, day, night, etc.). It will stall after starting and won't start after several attempts. You wait approximately 10 minutes and it will start just fine. This happens about 2x monthly, sometimes more sometimes less. Toyota has no idea what it is, they tried cleaning up the carbon buildup.
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