Lexus LX 2008+ :: Brakes Will Not Engage Until Pedal Is At Least One Third Of The Way Down
Nov 27, 2012
The brakes will not engage until the brake peddle is at least 1/3 of the way down, resulting in a big delay in time to stop. In stop and go traffic it is very dangerous. I have to actually "ride" the brake in rush hour traffic in order to be ready for a quick traffic problem as this brake system is very slow to respond. This is obviously a safety flaw in manufacturing or design but it must be fixed as its not a matter of if an accident will occur but when will it occur. I test drove another LX 570 and found the same brake issue with that unit as well.
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This problem just started the other day. I park in a very slightly inclined garage and now when I get into my car in the morning, the brake pedal is so stiff the brakes barely engage and the car will actually roll until the engine turns over. All other braking behavior is completely normal while driving and it only occurs if the car has been sitting overnight. Doesn't seem to happen if it just sits for a few hours.
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I purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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Wife just called on her way home from work and said the brakes grind when she pushes the pedal down. 08 with 39000. What am I in for and what kind of tools do I need? I'll pull off the wheels in the morning and take a look. Everybody seems to say the newer trucks go bad in the rear first,and she never uses the e- brake.
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I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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had issue/backed into garage door with rear of car---car will now not go into gear--gear shift will not engage. can manually engage with button, but, will not do normally. abs break system light now on. what do I do?
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Its a 2007 f150 v6. has 55,000 miles. just got her new tires for Christmas. the truck has doing this for awhile. when you use the brakes the pedal pulsates and the truck jerks back and forth. Feels like bent rotor or something. I've been doing it about a year keeps getting worse. Last year I had the rotors turned and put new pads on got a little better. But not for long continued to get worse again. So I just bought new rotors and pads and still sucks. I thought it could be a bent rim so I just rotated the tires and still no better. Where should i go from here? calipers? something in the front end loose?
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I have a 2015 IS250 F Sport with brakes that squeak. First time dealer said can't replicate and suggested hard braking to burn off any residue on rotors. Second time, dealer replace rear brake calipers which resulted in mix match colors of the brake caliper and bracket. Not happy.
Well it's starting to squeak again. Not sure if moisture and or cold has anything to do with it. Washed the car yesterday and as I was moving it down the driveway (small incline) the brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. I was able to replicate this several times yesterday.
This morning brakes squeaked as soon as I released the brake pedal. Not on an incline driveway today.
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The brakes surge with more power when the brake pedal is held at a constant pressure. My guess it has to do with the brake booster. But normally a failing booster would result in less braking ability not more.
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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I have a 2009 LX and I have been experiencing a vibration in the gas pedal on acceleration. Its not horrible, however it would be great if I could find the culprit and get it fixed. What was the cause. The LX has 96K
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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2011 LX57O. There is one moderate annoyance with it: its brakes. The pedal travels about 2" before I can feel any meaningful braking or deceleration, and after those 2" the braking force becomes quite disproportionate to the additional pedal travel, may be another 0.5", it brakes quite hard. So, it has become increasingly difficult to brake consistently. Dealer service has told us "this is normal."
We had the brake fluid changed twice already, and pedal feel improves noticeably after each change and gets worse from that point on. Our 2000 model Land Cruiser pedal feel is superb, all stock, and it is much more rewarding to drive and drive consistently.
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I have an 08 LS460 with 50k miles on it. Most of it city miles. I'm an average driver and not too hard on my brakes. How long should they last?
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when i initially purchased "used " my 08 gs350 i had a problem with brake squeal. I kept taking it in to the dealer until they ended up changing front rotors , all 4 pads , and new shims .
Took my car into my usual mechanic to get an oil change. I knew i needed brake pads and he changed all four pads out for $350 .I am having a terrible time with brake squeal now. the mechanic is telling me that i have warped rotors and need to replace all four. He is telling me that he wont charge me labor, but the parts will cost $400.00 I goggled the cost of the parts and he isnt far off on the price . My concern is that his fix isnt the correct fix. Front what i can tell its the front rotors making all the racket.
What should i do ??I dont know if they re-installed the shims and have no idea what kind of pads were used . Thinking about taking it to the dealership and being done with it .
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I have a 2008 LS460. I have a clicking noise coming from the brake pedal area. It happens in the morning when the brakes are cold. I had the same problem when the car was new, and Lexus put in a new actuator. It was ok for about 6 months, and started clicking again. Maybe 3 or 4 soft clicks when I push lightly on the brake pedal. Every time I take it in to Lexus, they say it has the new actuator, and the noise is so soft that they act like they can't hear it. The car is so quiet otherwise, that to me the clicking is very annoying. I have called Lexus corporate, to no avail. Sounds to me that they have a problem they don't want to admit.
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I have a 2001 Ford ZX2 with 170,000 miles on it. The clutch pedal doesn't engage the clutch until it is almost touching the floorboard. I thought it had a hydraulic clutch being a 2001 but I can't find a reservoir for the fluid so now I must assume now that it is a mechanical clutch.
1. Does they hide the reservoir on these ZX2's?
2. What could cause the clutch issue?
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