Lexus LS 2007+ :: Won't Start Intermittently?
Jan 20, 2016
The car is daily driven and at least once out of the week it won't start. To get it started I have to disconnect the battery to reset it.
When it doesn't start it has these codes:
P0390, P0365, P0345, P0340, and P0335.
When I reset the ECU the codes are gone and then it starts.
Could it be these camshaft or crankshaft sensors going bad at once or do you think it's something else that's connected to it that's causing it not to start?
Batteries good, I changed the starter 8 months ago, and the last thing I had done was a fuel recall that was done at the dealer.
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2009 LS600 ... Pulled up to a traffic light and noticed the red brake warning light had come on. When I went to pull away, the car would not budge! I turned the car off and restarted and it went fine.
Now, intermittently, the red warning light comes on and off. I tried googling this topic to see if there were any references to it happening but found nothing. It tends to come on when I'm slowing down but it has come on while normal driving as well.
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I only have about 3,500 miles on my car, every now and then I get a faint smell of possibly antifreeze when I open either of the front doors after a good drive. It's very strange because if I try to locate the source, the smell goes away. Once I exit the car and sniff around, there is no smell in the wheel wells, in the front grill, or under the hood. I then try to sniff under the car just under the front doors, and there is no smell! It is driving me crazy because it does not make any sense. My antifreeze level did not drop, and there is no evidence of any leaks. I didn't put it on my lift yet to examine it carefully, but I'll do that on the next oil change. I was wondering if there are possibly some hoses that go to the rear of the car for the rear a/c and heat. If so, maybe there is a slight leak on one of the clamps?
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My navigation has been all over the place lately. Sometimes it's 50 miles off, 15 miles off, and 5 miles off. Worst of all, the problem is intermittent. It seems to happen a few times a week. Is there a way to do a system reboot?
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Car still vibrates between 65 on up. However it is intermittent. Sometimes it will vibrate at 70. Sometimes smooth as silk.
I got the car road force balanced all wheels are between 6-7 lbs. I am going to go to the shop have them lift it up and check the lower ball joints and all the control arms.
QUESTION: Can I just replace a ball joint or do i have to replace the entire arm? Is the ball joint connected to the control arm in any way?
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I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and never had a problem with it until recently. My husband and I took a long drive to NJ from NH and went we stopped for gas and turned off the car, we could not start the car back up. We naturally called AAA, but once they came, about a hour later, the car started right up. Since that time, the car has repeated this several times. I take a trip to the grocery store, get back to the car, no problem, then make another short stop and then try to start the car and it does not start. I have no problem starting the car going to work every day and when I come home from work. It only happens when I make short intermittent trips, sometimes 2-3 stops. It always starts when there has been at least 1/2 hour between starts. I have taken it to 2 mechanics and they can never reproduce the problem I now have a car I have no confidence in. I am afraid even to get gas for this car.
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I have owned this car for six months. The car now has 39K. The problem is getting worse.
Re: Lexus 2011 LS460 AWD
Subject: Hesitation / momentary loss of power when accelerating after turn.
When accelerating after a sharp turn with light to moderate acceleration, the car will have a momentary loss of power for about 1, 2, or even 3 seconds. This does not happen often, but perhaps once every two weeks and I cannot replicate the problem despite attempting to do so.
In all cases, I am talking about DRY pavement. It always happens after a sharp turn usually to the right. (Probably because most sharp turns are to the right actually it only happened once on a left turn that I will describe below.) Acceleration is light to moderate NOT hard acceleration.
In one case it caused a serious situation. I had just purchased gas and was entering a busy freeway. When accelerating, the engine had a total loss of power for a couple seconds as a large semi truck bore down on me with its air horns blaring.
I have a strong clue that may debug this problem. Once, when turning left, the car suffered a total loss of power. There was no traffic and I kept my foot lightly on the throttle. The car remained unresponsive. The engine did not stop, but it did not respond and remained this way for at least 5 seconds until I took my foot off the accelerator and then back on to the accelerator. During this period of suspended throttle, I noticed that on the right side of the dash an orange alert symbol was flashing I think it was a swerving car? I assume this indicated that the car was losing traction and the computer decided to cut power until traction was regained. But the pavement was dry, and the acceleration was normal. In no case did I ever sense that one of the wheels was slipping.
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I'm having an issue with my Nav system. I'm not sure if its going out or if it's due to the cold weather but it doesn't immediately come on when I start the car. At some point while I'm driving I'll notice that it's on and working but it seems to also be intermittently switching between the day and night time screen mode. How to check to determine if it needs to be replaced or if there is a fix?
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I just purchased the car a few weeks ago. Horn doesn't work till I press about a dozen times and "get lucky".. Once it hits once I can usually beep about 4 times before losing it. I checked the fuse, looks fine. Haven't found the relay yet.
I suspect it is something in the switching/contacts/ground in the steering column. What I may need to replace in steering column?
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I just bought a 2007 6.0 with 239k miles on the truck, it has EGR delete and ARP head studs. When i bought it the owner warned me of injector stiction...
I drove the truck for about a week, changed the oil over to Rotella T6 with archoil, and swapped out the air filter so far. (previously was non synthetic rotella). I drove the truck 2 more times since changing those two items and then i had a no start issue.
Scanguage2 said it was FICM sync.....so i messed with the wire loom, and got it to start twice but it died right away. (it had ficm sync, then it died and went back to 0) So i ordered a CPS pigtail and was going to change it out today.
Today i went out and pushed on the CPS sensor directly, charged both batteries and the truck started rough but kept running after two times (still haven't changed the pig tail)
Now it starts but is still running rough.
Scangauge 2 Running:
IPR : 23.8
ICP : 581
FICM SYC : 1
FMP : 48.5
The only code i'm getting is P0269 which I'm hoping is only injector 3, a bad injector wouldn't cause all this would it?
I'm just trying to figure out what i should look at next.
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Car battery was dead, got a new battery from Walmart and replaced.
After that, from time to time, the engine would not start when pushing the start button, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries to get the engine to start. This has never happened before.
What is the reason for it, could it be that the walmart battery is not as powerful as the previous LEXUS battery? or something else?
By the way the car is due for an engine oil change with the warning light on. I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic 0w20 and the light went on every 5000 miles.
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When lock button on the remote is pressed twice and held for 3rd time , lights flash but car won't start. I just put fresh battery in remote Haven't used remote start since last winter..
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2008 ls 460 won't start when I press brake and start engine button. Car battery is strong. Tried two different keys. Start engine button has green light and when push all dash lights come but engine does nothing. Tried holding Lexus emblem on key next to button and pressing unlock button on key several times. Nothing?
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about 18 months ago my 2008 LS 460 wouldn't start after numerous attempts and displayed an error saying "Check VSC...". While waiting for the tow truck, I hit the start again randomly and bam! car started up.
The next morning, the car started up great again so I drove it to the dealership and told them about everything that happen. They said it was probably a bad battery. They changed out the battery (it was 26 months old) and said everything would be fine. A couple weeks later the car would jump and lurch during slow speed accelerations so brought back in. Nothing could be replicated so took car home. Car kept acting up and went to another dealership. After having the car for 3 days the mechanic replicated the issue and said a chip needed to be reset. After that....LS was back to great self.
Then today, car won't start and get "Check VSC..." error message. It's Sunday afternoon, so just called auto parts store and get new battery. Put new battery in and "Check VSC...." error message gone, BUT car still won't start.
When push button, hear one click and then nothing. All the lights come on, AC can blow, stereo can play, but car just sits there. Checked the battery cables for corrosion and while there was a little on the old battery the cables look good.
Is there any type of reset I can do that needs to happen after changing the battery or anything like a Windows reboot that can happen? I get the sense this is all computer issues and not actually anything mechanical. My LS only has 87k miles and has followed all the maintenance recommended so I'd really like to break 15 years or 200k miles .
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I let my 2007 Lexus GS 350 sit for 3 days. I start the car put it in drive & it rolls back and on the dash it reads BRAKE...but I had already released the brake. I cut the car off to try & reset the car now it doesn't start messages started appearing: Check VSC, P/S, Traction...the push to start goes to green: the radio plays, air blows hot, the brake is HARD. I tried replacing the gas cap, charged the battery, and got a jump. I had my mechanic take a look with the scanner & the car isn't reading any actual message.
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I'm having a very strange problem with my air conditioning unit that the dealer has never seen before. Each time I start up the car, the air conditioner initially fails to turn on. It seems to try to start up for about a minute. The green A/C light comes on, but no air blows out. Then, after about a minute, a message shows up on the nav screen saying "Air Conditioner off". The green light also turns off.
If I then press the A/C button again, the green light comes on, and after about 15 seconds, the air starts to blow and the unit appears to be fine.
This process happens consistently, each and every time I start up the car. The only time it may not go through this cycle is if I just turned the car off within the last few minutes and then start it up again, in which case the air conditioning seems to work fine.
I suspect when I went to the dealer, they did not pay much attention to what was happening the first time they started the car, and then on each successive restart, the symptom failed to reappear because the A/C unit seems to start fine if it was just running within the last few minutes.
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I had my 25,000 service done while my '08 LS460 was in for the VSR. Now about 1000 miles later, I am getting the "Change Oil Soon" message on start up. I assume the dealer did not reset the system after the oil change.
Can I reset the oil change warning now or do I have to wait until the yellow warning light comes on steady?
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Yesterday my 2008 ES350 would not start. Called AAA out. I believe they tested the starter and the alternator and found both good and suggested charging the battery. We assumed we left some device on and that ran the battery down although we could not think of what it was.
So I charged the battery on maintenance free setting long enough that the needle quit moving towards zero and just quivered (about 4 hours). Removed charger and started engine with no problem. Took it to neighborhood parts store and had battery tested. Tested good.
Wife ran her errands in it, came home, garaged and figured she must have left some electric device on the previous night. This morning engine would not crank, same as before.
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I got into my car and pressed the start button. All the lights on the dash came on but nothing happened. I tried to jump start the battery. Nothing. I got a volt meter from someone at the club and found that the battery was fine. I called the Lexus dealer close to me. They told me it was the in the key. Just hold the key close to the start button and it will start. Did this and nothing. I did not get the indicator light that the car cannot find the key. Every time I press the start button, I hear on click from the engine then nothing. I think maybe the starter. I had the car toed to the Lexus dealer since I have the extended warranty. I changed the battery about two months ago after the car was dead late one Sat. night in a parking garage. But I jump started it and drove it home. Replaced battery and everything was fine until today.
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What causes a click in the engine when you start your car or when you accelerate at times. I have a 2007 ES350. I have 157,000 miles and it runs great.
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I went to go pump gas and this happened. Had to tow it back home. Battery is a few months old. I also tried putting a fully charged jump box to it with no results.
Gonna hook a scanner to it later to see if there is any code. (Shouldn't be any if it's the starter...correct???)
I hooked up a scanner to the car and found:
P0335 ( Crankshaft position sensor)
P0340 P0345 P0365 P0390 Camshaft position sensor
I guess its safe to eliminate the starter. Do all the sensors need replacing or do you think one particular sensor is causing all the other sensors to go off as well.
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