Lexus LS 2007+ :: Warm CC Air Only When Car Is Moving - When Standstill Air Freezing Cold
Jan 4, 2015
This one comes just in time when the cold and bad weather has started! My car is exhibiting certain symptoms and I am trying to figure out whether this is an issue with physical duct and air passageway components, the computer or something else....
When I turn on climate control, the car will blow air temp according to the one inputted only when I am driving, as soon as I come to a standstill, no matter what temp i input in the CC on the center console, the air will be freezing cold.
Now I don't know if its the computer sending improper signals to the duct system, a bad sensor or some problem with the duct passageway system.
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
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I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
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Bought 2009 santa fe new [3.3]. after cold start up tac is moving up and down and it seems to be missing. After temp is reached tac is steady but there still seem to be a hesitation when driving. 21,000 miles on vehicle. could it be a bad tbs?
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Winters get COLD up here, easily -20F at night.
All my life, I've always went running outside, start the car up, get the heat blasting, run back inside. By the time I walk out to actually leave 10-15 minutes later, it's warm (or at least tolerable) inside the car, and the windows are defrosted.
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2007 Honda CRV EX80k MilesAC goes from cold to blowing out warm air
Starting up the car and driving the air is nice and cold for 15 minutes or so.It then slowly goes to warmer air over the next few minutes while driving. Pulling over and checking the AC line with my hand under the hood it is going from ice cold to warm.When it is in this mode of warm air, turning the ac on and off with the dash button you can hear the cooling fan kick in but not the click you usually hear which I think is the compressor clutch engaging. If you turn on and off enough while driving it can sometimes go back to good cold air again very quickly.
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I can't seem to set any of my AM stations in the car. When selecting the AM button I do get the last AM station played but using the channel up or down button only gets me to whatever is on the page and that's the FM presets. It should work like this: Hit the AM tab and all the AM presets come up, hit the FM tab and all the FM presets come up but it seems they all will stay on the 1/6 -6/6 tabs only regardless of whether I select the AM or FM tab.
I know AM is not even a popular choice these days but part of my commute here on the island leaves me out of any FM signals and I like to get the news and traffic updates in the morning.
I tried the manual but all they tell you is the traditional press and hold a button to set it. Trouble is I can't sort the presets between buttons.
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I have a 2014 Lexus IS350 Fsport. When I press the button outside air mode and no fans are on. I get warm/hot air even when the outside temp is cold.
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Its just around freezing, and damp in Ontario and suddenly, in the mornings my Accord won't start. The battery is fairly new, the engine cranks and seems to almost catch but never quite. Yesterday, i came home at lunch and it started right up (though i didn't drive it), then this morning it wouldn't start, and it still won't. The fuel pump comes on when you turn the key to II.
I had the main relay problem on an older Accord but that doesn't seem to be the case for the 98 to 02 models. It seems like the most common problems are with the ignition switch (recall...but it causes random stalling while driving). The other common one is with the coil pack/ igniter. I'm not sure how to really check these, other than by replacing them. I haven't checked for spark yet but i am about to. How to measure the resistance of the coil (and what it should be?). What about the wires?
Is there an easy to access fuel filter on this car and if so, where is it?
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My 2011 ES350 has 49k miles on it (just got it last week).
I just noticed that when moving slowly (with and without accelerating) I can hear a slight whistle sound that resembles a bird chirp coming from what I think is a wheel.
My dad can't hear the sound (I'm thinking the frequency is too high for his ears) but it is definitely there and I can hear it clearly.
The sound comes and goes but something is not right. Wonder what it is?
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I have a problem on my 2009 Lexus ES 350, this morning I found out the passenger side power seat is not moving at all in any directions (up, down, front, back etc.) However the driver's side is working. It was working in the past, but I would not know for how long it has stopped working as I don't normally press the buttons on the passenger side except when I want to clean the car.
I tried going through the owners manual to check if it is a blown fuse, but on opening the hood the fuse referred to as Power seat fuse is big fuse that cannot be pulled, also checked the one under the steering compartment, I could not find it either as from the manual it is not a regular fuse either. On second thought I was thinking if it a blown fuse both seats should not be working except they are wired separately (I don't know, just a guess).
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2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
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I'm new to the Lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds a bit tappet on cold starts until fully warm sounds scary... noise disappears once it's fully warm.
for a Lexus to do this is a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...
It has full Lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no different
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So here's the deal...my '99 Sub has developed the problem of the A/C running too cold and freezing up the evaporator.The specs call for the clutch cycle switch to shut off the compressor at 25 lbs-low side, and turn it back on at 45 lbs. With a static pressure of 120 lbs, ambient air temp of 85 degrees, engine idle 1200 RPM: when the system is turned on the compressor activates and the low side pressure stabilizes at around 30-34 lbs...the high side sits at around 180-200 lbs...fan on high, max setting on temp control, the middle-front register reads 28-36 degrees.
This is great for awhile until the evap freezes up and airflow is restricted. The lowside pressure will not drop down to 25 lbs to activate the switch to shut off the compressor. I even installed a new pressure cycle switch to no avail since the pressure will not drop enough to activate it anyway. So every half hour or so, I have to manually shut off the compressor at the control panel for about 5 minutes, and then start the process over again. The rear unit is controlled by the TXV and continues to function just fine (rear register temp 36-40 degrees).
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My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
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So last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
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Ever since I got my 2010 Prius (about a week ago) I always get a little scare whenever I'm backing out of a parking place. The Prius seems to think that the ideal time to start the ICE to warm it up is when I'm moving backwards and halfway out of the spot... which, of course, causes a little vibration in the car and makes me think I hit or ran over something. It really scared me the first time... especially since I had only had the car a few hours then and I'm mostly used to it by now, but every now and then it catches me off guard.
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My Forester blows freezing cold air sitting in the driveway idling or at a stop light. As soon as you get out on the highway, it blows about 10-15 seconds of cold air and then 10-15 second of warm air. On a really hot day it is borderline uncomfortable. Already had the freon checked and it is fine. What this could be? I've searched all over the internet for people having a similar problem, but everyone else who has intermittent A/C has like ten minutes of cold and then it blows warm until they stop.
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What is the service manual spec for the idle rpm on a 2012 LS (after warm up)? From my scan tool the idle in neutral is 720-730 rpm and in drive it's 780-800. Yes, lower in neutral. I find the car wants to creep forward against the brakes when stopped. The dealer says nothing wrong but has not given me what the idle specs are. Additionally, is the idle adjustable, if so how?
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I have a 2004 gmc sierra and it is having heater issues. For a while now when starting it up cold it would not blow any warm air until the vehicle is moving. The other day while driving it would go back and forth between hot and cold.
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