Lexus LS 2007+ :: Unevenness In Road Distinctly Felt Inside Car At Urban Speeds
Nov 15, 2014
Just done a five mile journey at urban speeds (20-40mph). I find that any kind of unevenness in the road is distinctly felt inside the car. Things like drain covers. I'm not sure if this is normal or a fault?
The car is a new to me 07 ls460 with air suspension, 19" wheels and fairly new Dunlop Sport tyres. I've set the car to comfort mode.
I'm thinking that I should get the suspension checked out, so if there is something wrong hopefully I can get the dealer to rectify it now. Are there any particular things to check?
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I test drove the sc 430 the other day, I found it very smooth and very soft ride. I noticed that when I accelerate the car feels heavy as if it lacks the torque. Is this normal?
Also, the steering felt loose at high speeds above 60mph. Is this normal?
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I got the attached warning today on my 2010 LS600. The pedal felt a little soft after the warning. It kept popping off and on, dinging every 30-40 seconds.
I checked the brake fluid, it was full. Car has 36k
I had it towed in to Lexus and they couldn't get the warning to come back up.
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What is the black felt discs inside the cut out of the air intake assembly tube that goes to the air filter assembly?
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I recently bought a 1995 Bronco. The rear axle makes a pretty awful noise. I put it on jackstands and ran it while I laid under the truck and it's coming right from the differential. It makes a constant howling noise and it felt like there was something banging against the inside of the case.
I removed the inspection cover and drained all the fluid out. It looked like chocolate milk, but the gears themselves all look fine. I didn't find any broken teeth, metal shavings, pieces of bearings, etc. in the case. It looks like a perfectly normal differential.
The truck has 166,000 miles on it and doesn't appear to be abused at all.
Here's a video I shot of the noise. You can't really hear the howling noise but the knocking sound is pretty audible. The frequency changes with the wheel speed. The sound is definitely coming from the differential.
Bronco axle - YouTube ....
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With just above 100K miles our Honda has been wobbling, wiggling and shimmying for a couple of years and a half-dozen trips to our mechanic and to the tire shop have found nothing. The wobble occurs at all speeds and can really be felt even at sub 15mph speeds to the point where my knees can be seen shaking in time.
When it first happened I thought it was the brakes, so I had a major brake job done to no effect (it did need it, so it wasn't wasted money). My mechanic was a winner on the recommended shops on your website and has done all my work, except tires, for more than 6 years and he has been real good at avoiding unnecessary work, taking the time to check things out without charge. He's had it looked over thoroughly and can't find anything in the tie rods, CV joints, etc. that could be fixed.
My local tire shop, also a long-term customer, has been over the tires twice and can't find anything wrong either. It's shaking pretty bad and I'm getting even more nervous about high speed driving.
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I noticed that driving my LS last weekend that the right headlight was fluttering going down the road. It did not go off but it looked like a loose connection. When I arrived at the golf course, someone told me that he noticed that the right headlight was out. Now I got home and I have checked the headlight and nothing seams to be a problem. Both low beam and high beams go off and on with no problem. My question is : is the headlight bulb going out or do I have a connection problem? I hate to take off the tire and inner wheel cover to change the bulb unless I need to. Second question: If I have to change the bulb what is the best brand to use?
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I drive 2007 ES350, lately I am getting clunking noises from rear, inside or underneath the trunk, when going over bumpy roads. I have removed everything from the inside of the trunk except for spare tire and tools in foam, etc.
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Car still vibrates between 65 on up. However it is intermittent. Sometimes it will vibrate at 70. Sometimes smooth as silk.
I got the car road force balanced all wheels are between 6-7 lbs. I am going to go to the shop have them lift it up and check the lower ball joints and all the control arms.
QUESTION: Can I just replace a ball joint or do i have to replace the entire arm? Is the ball joint connected to the control arm in any way?
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My trunk won't open from the inside or with the key fob? The only way to open the trunk is by detaching the key and using it manually. What gives....
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As you can see in the picture below, there is rust on the joint.. I have two identical 2008 LS 600 HLs. Only one has rust on the joint. Both have rust on the bracket on the left.. It seems unusual that Lexus would have rusted parts on the inside, so quickly.
None of us would think of checking it. The location is above the accelerator pedal, under the steering. I saw it accidentally, because someone asked me to take a picture of the two buttons in that location (one turns pcs off and other is for TPMS).
Here is the link to the picture : [URL] ....
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Bought this 2010 ES 350 before last winter, never use the air-con until last week. After the air-con was turned off, here comes the odor! The fumes were so bad that I had to open up all the windows. Did take out the air filter to clearn, but odor still come back after air-con was turned off.
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2007 Es350 with 60k. Boot is not cracked or split and does not have any holes. It appears to be leaking where the big band is next to the tx.
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I have recently run through a large pool of water on the road and this shortly after tuned on the engine warning light and the " ! " light. Everything seems to feel Ok but had the OBD code read and it shows P0051 and also showed VSC. What to look for?
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This question is more for those with aftermarket pads (particularly Akebono pads), how much rattling noise do they make when doing over medium-sized irregularities in the road.
Every time my car goes over a bump it sounds like some bits and pieces of the front suspension will be left behind me. Frankly it sounds embarrassing. Unfortunately, two separate dealers have so far told me that the culprit is the aftermarket set of pads.
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LS 460 of 2008: I was driving on a gravel road with LS 460 of 2008 and sudden the check engine light came on the dashboard whilst driving and also the check psc light came on and battery light came on signalling battery low. then the car just stopped and could not start.
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So I've been getting this weird cracking noise from inside my car. Sounds like its coming from the rear side of the headliner. This always happens when I'm turning in or out of a driveway or over a speed bump. What it could be. Usually at low speeds and usually when I'm turning. It is very annoying!
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I can be driving down the road and "blam", the "check parking assist" comes on my nav screen. This message screen comes on and goes off all the time. It comes on when I am not around anything close. I had the parking assist sensors checked and every thing checked out OK. Could this a an electrical problem? If it becomes irritating, I just turn the parking assist off.
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I hear a bit of a squeaking noise. Very minimal. Coming from back when I'm on rough roads. Is that normal. Sounds like it might be from coilover or somewhere in the back.
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2010 ES350, 84,000 miles. I have seen many threads on door locking/unlocking issues but none quite like mine that I've been able to locate. The key fob stopped locking the doors a few weeks ago, neither will the lock button on the drivers door inside the car. No sounds, beeps, lights or mechanical attempts to lock the doors. There are no indicator lights or messages suggesting an issue.
I can go around and manually lock all the doors, hit the lock on the key fob, and the car will beep and light up as if the locks worked fine. I also manually locked each door separately and in all combinations, the only combination which will enable the beep as if the door locks work with the fob is if they are all locked. The fob will unlock the doors however, unlocking has not been an issue.
My first attempt to correct was to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect and they worked fine for a week or so. The next time, with all the same symptoms, disconnecting the battery did nothing, the fob, however did start working a day or two later. The third time it happened we took the car directly to the dealership who has had it for 5 days and have been unable to identify an issue (the fob started to work on day 3).
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I finally traded in my car and picked up a black 2010 ES 350, CPO, with 33k miles. However, i feel a vibration inside the vehicle while the car is idling (even when it is fully warmed up) and i was wondering if this is normal on these models? I have owned a is250, and ls460 and I didn't really notice anything like it. It almost feels like my ex's toyota camry when idling (not as loud of course). Is there a recall that fixes it? or is this normal with FWD vehicles?
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