2007 LS460. On a couple of occasions recently, my transmission would not come out of park. I shut the engine down and restarted and it worked fine. Is this a sign of bad things to come?
View 9 RepliesWell, i have almost had it with this car. When the car is idling in park... ti sounds like the transmission is chattering,... then, once i put it in gear it gets louder. like a medium fast "clinking" noise. ALSO, when rolling at a slow speed and i barely hit the gas the transmission (or maybe engine) makes a zipping chattery noise.
View 2 RepliesIt happen again for the second time in a few weeks. I popped the little cover and pressed the override which worked fine. I am curious if there is an adjustment or if this portends thinks to come?
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris about 12,000 miles ago in March of this year. Automatic transmission, it now has around 72,500 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a "clunking" sound/feeling when I shift from park to drive while on an incline. It doesn't matter if I am going from park to reverse, or visa versa. It is more of a feeling... like something is broken and shifting forward or backwards more quickly/violently that it should, but I can hear it slightly. There is no such sound/sensation on level ground.
Temperature/weather is not a factor. Is this a symptom of a bad motor mount/tranny mount? I had a bad motor mount on a previous car, and experienced a rattling noise while idling. There is no such noise or vibration with this car. I do not have a stable mechanic yet and would like an opinion before I try and establish a relationship with one (considering I am a small 25 year old woman who looks 17-18 years old, and I am not normally taken seriously).
Looking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).
I see where I can shut it off on navigation screen, but buzzing sound still goes off and picture lights up on speedometer on dash.
Since snow started falling this week when I drive the park assist just randomly goes off its annoying having buzzing sound just go off not shut off.
I have a 2008 es350 with 106k miles and I've been trying to fix vibration issue for a few months now. The car vibrates while in park with and without the AC power on, but its worse with the AC on. The vibration was felt in the sterring wheel and wasnt that bad just enough to be annoying. So I researched and did a few thing such as spark plugs change, mass air flow cleaning, new air filter, a few bottles of fuel injection cleaner but nothing improved the vibrations. In fact I think it got worse. So after looking online I ran across a post about vibrations and motor mounts. This is the post I found. [URL] ....
"Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all mounts being careful not to rock the motor, and don't pry or push anything to reach the bolts! (This is where swivels co*me in handy)"
I went ahead and did it on my es and wife's 2010 rx350. It took about 30-40 minutes but I took several breaks. Here are a few pic these are from the RX but the process is almost the same ones.
Top of engine bay on the passanger side this mount is easy youll need a 14 mm wrench. I noticed the bolts here where very tight when i loosened them but when re tightened the bolts it when in very easily.
This the drivers side you'll need a 19 mm wrench. Just turn the wheel all the way to the right to get access.
This one is right behind the radiator in the front middle of the engine. Its a17 mm
This is on the passenger side behind the wheel. It just like the one on the drivers side. Its a 19mm
This one I believe is only on the rx but I didn't look on the es. I could not get to the through bolt so i just loosen the two 17mm bolts.
Once all of the bolts were lose I turned on the car and moved/drove it 2-4 feet in drive several time in the drive way. Then I stepped on the brake pedal hard while in drive and gave some gas nothing crazy maybe up to 3k rpm and for second or 2. I did the same in reverse. After that I put it in drive and felt for vibrations if I still felt something i would repeat until the vibrations stopped. Once they stopped I didn't put the car in park, I turn off the car while in drive and engaged the emergency brake. At this point i re-torqued all the bolts without move anything. Now both the RX and ES and very smooth while stopped while in drive. This a free fix and it worked great.
This just recently started happening that after a few minutes at idle in park the engine turns off. I did install a DBALL remote start last fall but thats runs until the door is opened but the car wasn't started with the remote nor the door opened.
View 5 RepliesThe side passenger mirror on my 2008 Lexus LS460 will not unfold once the car has been in Park. The mirror still tilts but I must get out of the car and walk around to "unfold" or straighten side view mirror when I put it in Drive.
View 1 RepliesWhen I apply the brakes on and off while in park, I hear a "fluttering squeaking" noise. I examined the brake pads and calipers, and everything seems to be fine. I greased up all the brake hardware and no luck.
Also, I have a popping noise while making turns while I am not braking. I really doubt there is any connection with the brakes? I recently went testing in a parking lot, and while slightly turning from left to right I noticed the popping constantly. Keep in mind no brakes were applied.
Last year the dealer replaced the brake actuator and all arms were replaced. BTW, I am past my extended 100K warranty!!
Today my car came back from service, now when I reverse park I get this display where when you move the steering wheel you can choose the spot you park in. Before I was just happy reverse parking my car myself and get a different display showing me the back view with with green and red lines I think where the car is moving towards etc. I can't figure out how to disable this steering wheel park assist.
View 1 RepliesI have an ongoing issue with my 2007 LS460L. Sometimes when I start the car I get multiple warnings on the display and the car will not shift out of Park unless the override button is used. The window switches are disabled and the turn signals won't operate.
The car has had the issue since I purchased it used with 12,000 miles on it. But it has become a lot more frequent in the last couple of months. It seems to happen more often after being parked in the hot sun.
The dealer has been useless as far as finding the problem. It does not throw or store any codes. It only happens occasionally and never at the dealership. Usually I can restart the car after about 20 minutes or so and the problem has disappeared.
Check out my short video here: IMG 0499 - YouTube
Two weeks ago I pick up our 08 460 SWB , with 24,300 miles on the car ...
I noticed today while in park standing and waiting for my wife to come out the nail Solon ..the car had this very mild tremble / shake ...and sounded like a belt under the hood was loose .. Something like a rotating fan sound loud but not that loud to make a big stink out of... When I drove off and came to a stop sign I pressed the breaks and RPM's went from 1,100 to 1,300 and back down when the car was at full stop??
Since we purchased the car we've been having problems with the transmission or acceleration, when the car is shifting from park to drive engine speed RPM goes up and it is difficult to stop the car from driving. The dealer does not know what to do and the factory support is useless.
View 14 RepliesAfter I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
I purchased my first Lexus in October, a very clean 2009 ls460. In colder weather (for Tucson AZ) in the 30's to 40's I notice that the transmission slips while the car is accelerating between 2nd and third gear.
By slipping, I mean as the car shifts between 2nd and 3rd it feels like it goes into neutral for a half second, so rpms spike 500 rpm, the car stops accellerating, and then catches as the next gear is finally engaged.
It does this pretty much every day when the car has been sitting overnight on the first steady acceleration after backing out of the garage. It only does it once, subsequent shifts a re pretty much normal.
Every once in a while coming out of a parking lot after say grocery shopping, it will do it again, just once.
I dropped it at the dealer and they of course could not replicate it.
I made a youtube video which shows it sort of. besides the rise in engine rpm, you feel a lurch in the acceleration as it drops down into gear.
Service records showed the trans was serviced just before I bought it.
Transmission slipping - YouTube
I purchased a 2007 ES350 from a Toyota Dealership (64K, now has 66K). I purchased a warranty for the vehicle. Over the last couple weeks I have begun to notice my transmission is slipping - the car will rev up with no acceleration. It will usually catch on the second attempt of pressing the gas pedal. I notice this behavior usually after a cold start in the morning as I am leaving for work.
Before I go into the dealership to tell them about my potentially expensive problem, I want to ensure I go in knowing as much as possible. I have already found a ton of issues surrounding various transmission flairs at varying gears. (TSIB: TC001-06)
Those with AWD model LS's and shuddering transmissions. Don't go into the dealership barking orders. Just mention that you "think" your car is suffering from this condition and that you would like it checked. Certain conditions have to be met with the vehicle so plan on leaving it with the dealer for the day if possible. It has to be driven with the scan tool connected and recording live data. So this is NOT something you want to drop-in unannounced for.
View 4 RepliesI have recently purchased a 2007 Lexus and just starting having a problem when trying to accelerate when I first start to car and try to move forward.
Basically I put the car in drive accelerate, the RPM is high but the car moves at a snails pace of at all.
For the first mile or so on cold mornings, by transmission shifts slowly - sort of a second or two delay until the car warms up. Is this normal?
View 3 RepliesMany people speaking of the flare they get; up to 1000 rpm between 3rd and 4th gear when the car is cold.Here's what I did.
Started the car. Cold as normal. Let it warm up "NORMAL". Meaning NOT for 5 minutes or anything. Just the normal 30-60 seconds like most people do first thing in the morning. Before pulling away and driving off, I took the transmission and ran it through the gauntlet.
Park to reverse:
Reverse to Neutral:
Neutral to Drive:
Drive to Manual: (Automatically starts in "4")
Manual tap down to 3, 2, then 1.
Manual tap up to 2, 3, 4, 5, then 6
Manual back to Drive.
Take it back to Park:
This whole process took about 10 seconds. I then pulled away and drove off. Temperature gauge still hadn't really moved. Total time since starting the car is probably only about 1 minute or a little more. While not spinning tires, I did accelerate "Faster than normal" just to see how 3rd to 4th would go. There was no flare at all from 3rd to 4th.