Lexus LS 2007+ :: Thump When Pulled Out In R From P / Faint Grind Noise
Mar 9, 2015
I first noticed this recently as my wife was pulling out of the driveway into the street... The car wasn't cold, as it had been running for a bit over 5 minutes, warming up. My driveway slopes a bit towards the street and also has a dip/hump at the end of it. As she pulled out in R from P, I heard a thump. I also hear a noise which sounds like the brakes engaging. So in order, brakes engaging, shift from P to R, the thump then as it backs up and turns into the street, there's a slight, faint grind noise.
As the car stops to go from R to D, it thumps again. But as it goes into drive and pulls away..smooth as butter and quiet. I've heard and read that it's possible motor mounts. I'm wondering if the light grinding is the actuator...or perhaps dried out bushings in the control arms... Also read the possibility of the trans going bad, which I highly doubt, but who knows. My plan is to call Lexus in the morning and see if I can be squeezed in.
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2015 GTI, 6sp, Coupe, 3000km.
When changing gears from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, I get this faint THUMP thump noise coming from what seems to be the driver side foot well area, on the other side of the firewall.
Other ways to replicate is by simply clutching in as if changing gears, but not actually shifting. It can be prevented by shifting/accelerating very slowly (not practical).
Nothing can be felt in the clutch pedal OR the shifter. Can't be replicated in neutral, or by simply letting off the gas under boost. ONLY when the clutch is engaged about 2.5k RPM in 1st, and 2nd.
What it could be. Dogbone bushings? Engine mount? Gerbils? Also, went to dealer and they said it wasn't "enough" for them to start pulling stuff apart. Was told to wait until it gets worse.
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Driving my 2008 460L and I get the brake sensor warning. Ok I've been through this before and know I have a little time left, but two days later I get a little grind noise. Then suddenly metal on metal what the hell is that noise! Turns out the passenger side rear lost a pad... it's just gone. The plate is left but the pad is gone on the inside of the rotor. The outside still had about 25% left. The other back wheel still had about 25% left on both pads.
I have 97k on the car and the rotor was turned on the last brake job so I assume I am done with this rotor and order a new one. Now the fun... I pull off the caliper and compress the cylinder on the offending pad first. The way I do this is with a big pair of channel locks I put one jaw on the pad and one on the back of the caliper and squeeze. It works a treat so I pull the offending pad and the dust boot falls to the ground in pieces. Great... now I put the channel locks on the other pad and when I squeeze, it goes in very easily with almost no resistance and the cylinder on the other side(with no boot on it) shoots out along with a bunch of fluid, probably 4-6 oz.
I decide to reassemble everything knowing I now need to bleed the brakes. All of the other wheels are normal and the brake job goes smoothly.
Frustrating part is here... how do you bleed the brakes in this car?!
methods I tried:Gravity - open the bleeder valve and let it drip, the dripping stopped after 20 minutes leaving no fluid in the line or caliper at all.
vacuum - I used the hand pump tool to try and pull fluid thru, got little spits and dribbles at best.
traditional - had my son pump the brakes, he could get a spongy pedal that bottomed out but never a firm pedal and the cylinder remained empty.
pump and suck - aggressive pumping of the pedal with the suction device on the hardline nipple. This resulted in a little fluid coming thru but no where near the amount you'd expect.
Now I have VSC, Brake Malfunction, ABS warning on the computer.
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Our 07 RX350 has 47,000 miles and I just starting to hear (I think from the front) a faint rattling noise while driving. It's hard to describe but it sort of sounds like what you might expect if an empty plastic bottle was slowly bumping around in a plastic box. It is not a metal on metal type of noise. The shocks/struts appears to pass the old bounce test and the car does not seem to display any of the handling issues you get when you have worn shocks/struts.
I also checked the upper engine compartment to see if any plastic shrouds or covers were loose - they weren't.
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I have some FAINT clicking noise at the rear of the 08 LS460 and I'm thinking it's rear bearing going out..but not sure...what exactly does bearing failure sounds like? I hear this SOFT clicking noise from (more likely) the right rear. The noise is very faint and I have to roll down the window to actually hear it.
If I move through the neighborhood at about 15-20 mph, I hear this clicking faint clicking sounds..and if I speed up a little, the clicking noise increases (in frequency, not loudness). When I go faster like on freeway or normal road, I can't hear it anymore. Probably clicking too fast or not as loud at that speed. With windows up, I can't hear it at all.
Is this has to do with rear bearing going out on me or possibly something else? Any recommendation where I can start looking at? Is it brake pads? The car is 35K miles but since it's 08, unfortunately it's out of basic warranty (time). Is this covered under powertrain?
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I just got my 03 F-150 with 112k on the clock. It has the manual 5 speed tranny behind the 4.6L.
However, since I've gotten the truck, it's kind of difficult to put in first gear. If you are sitting at a light and in neutral and the light changes and you push the clutch to the floor and put it in 1st (fairly quickly - a normal reaction time), it will actually do a little grind and/or thump. However, if push the clutch to the floor and wait a couple of seconds and then shift into first, it's a bit of a "push" but it will go in without grinding.
Once in a while shifting to 3rd it feels the same way, but won't really grind.
I'm just wondering if that means the clutch is toast or is it the trans that is toast? Reason I ask is my 96 Cobra with the T-45 5 speed would grind going into 5th gear if I just normally put it in. I used to have to put it in neutral and then push the clutch in again and slowly shift to 5th for it not to grind. And it wouldn't go into 3rd if I tried to shift fast or under power. I replaced the clutch and found out the trans was actually going bad, but it had 173k on the clock.
So, I'm really paranoid that it's my darn trans in the truck instead of just the clutch. Whenever my old Camaro clutches used to be dying, they would slip more than they would ever grind going into a gear.
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For last couple of days the car is making a Thump sound when the engine turns over. then it gone- single thump sound....It only happens in the morning if the car is sitting in the garage overnight. I do not hear it if i park the car at work after 8 hours does not make the same sound.
I also feel it takes a bit tad longer to start the car(again only in the morning)- i thought it was the battery but the battery has been replaced 2 years ago.
i will try to record the sound tomorrow and post it. the car is fine once started no funny sounds or anything. Its a 2011 with 71k miles on it.
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I just picked up a used 2009 LS 460 AWD last week with 45K miles. I have put about 1000 miles on it so far myself.
When I hit any small depression in the road at 10-45 mph I hear a thump in the rear. The bigger the depression and the more weight in the backseat, the louder the thump noise and even an occasional bottoming out feeling occurs. It hasn't happened at highway speeds so far.
The bottoming out feel occurs only with a medium to large depression. I am not talking about a pot hole, just pavement depressions where two sections are not of equal height or you are transitioning from a primary road to a side street and the is a depression to allow for water run off, etc.
If I have someone sitting in the passenger seat and the backseat and accelerate quickly from a dead stop, I get a similar rear thump and even a bottoming out feel. This occasionally occurs even without a without a depression in the road. With no one in the back seat it does not do it unless there is a big depression in the road.
Finally, when cornering on a 270 degree off ramp at 40 to 50 MPH the rear end will start to hop and bounce. If I slow down to 15-20 mph it goes away. Still, it is irritating and embarrassing. I have tried all comfort settings and get the same results.
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2008 ES 350 sway bar replace, confirmed diagnose of metal thump, like dead blow metal to metal, mostly bumps, rough roads. etc, it wasnt' a vibration, but finally moved the sway bar link up and down on jack stands and could see and hear the top joint of the sway bar link moving.
It wasnt a bad job, but if your in the Rust Belt, the nuts aren't happy coming off, and I highly recommend a air saw to ease the pain. If you dont have a saw, and your in the Rust Belt make sure you clean the heck outta the rust in the threads, cause it just jams the works as your easing the nut off the stud.
Need 17mm wrench (i used box end rachet) and 6mm allen , its got that stupid set up off the allen slot in the end of the stud to steady that, and they you gotta work the bolt off at the same time, not a one hand operation.
Start by spraying the snot outta the 17mm nut and stud with Blaster, Hold onto the allen key wrench and I whacked the rachet with a dead blow hammer and was able to get it to bust loose, now you just have to ease the nut off with whatever it'll give you. After I got some room for the air saw blade, I just whacked it with the saw.
Careful if you just start with a cut off operation into the rubber boot of the stud, there is a shoulder that wont allow it to just pull thru, you have to cut the stud on the nut side of the sway bar in order for it to pull thru.
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I have a 2010 LS 460 Sport and recently noticed that there is a faint water sound coming from behind the glove box every time I accelerate from standstill and sometimes when the car is idle and the A/C is on. My initial thinking was that it is some sort of a clog in the A/C drain, and that's what I told my service supervisor at the most recent service at a Lexus dealership. They said that they could not find anything except for a bit of debris in the A/C drain, which they blew out, however the noise is still there. The best way that I can describe the noise is that it's similar to a noise that a rainstick makes.
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yesterday I heard a faint rattle coming from under the hood while the a/c was on, when I had my son turn it off, it went away. Right now it's barely noticeable, but I don't want it to turn into something major. I own a '08 ES with 88,000 miles and all my service is done at the dealership.
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2007 Camry, I4, 156000km ... For some time now, when i accelerate i hear this faint pinging/rattling sound which sounds like its a pulley rattling or some sort of chain that is loose. It mainly happens when i start from a complete stop and even sometimes when i press the accelerator while cruising. I hear the noise more when the windows are rolled down and it sounds like it coming from underneath/front of the car.
I have changed the accessory belt and checked all the pulleys for tightness and they seem pretty tight, no wobbliness. I have gotten a dealer to check it out, and they told me it was the flex pipe, i had it changed and still hear the noise, this was quite a while ago. Also no leaks from the water pump area.
The sound can only be heard when the car is in motion, and if i put it in park, or N and rev the car there is no sound. I have heard that it could be suspension related and i have had a mechanic check the suspension and he says he cannot see anything wrong. I even tried to run premium gas in the car to rule out engine pinging, and sure enough the noise persists with 91 octane gas.
Could it be related to transmission? I do a fluid drain and fill every 30,000km. And the fluid always looks new and does not smell burnt. How I can get to the bottom of this noise?
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I'm using the 2011 Santa Fe.Got few question to ask.
1.When start to move there is a thump noise and sometimes it feel like going over something from the rear area.Happen only when start to move.
2.Using the keyless remote. Sometimes push the rear trunk button to lock and arm the car there but will be a beep sound continuously. Sometimes the rear trunk button are unable to open or arm the alarm system.
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I have been driving my new ES 300h for a few days and have noticed that often when I apply the brakes, there is a faint high pitched noise in the cabin. It's not a brake noise of any sort, its clearly some electronic component. I was just wondering if this is a normal part of the regenerative braking system or not, as it is definitely quite audible and takes away from the otherwise very quiet ride of the vehicle.
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Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
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The last two mornings I have gone into my garage and have heard a faint "buzzing" noise that seems to be coming from the rear of 2013 RX350. Given the location of the noise, my first inclination was that it was possibly the fuel pump running a cycle for some reason. But when I heard it for the second day in a row, I figured it would be wise to ask if this is normal or something I should take up with the dealer?
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So I'm new to the all time awd car thing. I came from a 4x4 truck which 4x4 was never engaged on pavement or in tight cornering. When maneuvering my is250 awd in tight spots ie. parking lots and the front wheels are at full lock in either forward or reverse there is a slight binding/grinding feeling or faint noise. Is this normal on an awd car or Lexus specific??? Did a quick search and didn't find much about this issue. I'm pretty sure its not tire rub.....stock set up.
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Just like the title says out of the blue the esc light will come on and it sounds like the front brakes are grinding. This only happens once in a while but more often as of late. Grinding noise does not occur until after the light comes on. Sometimes the light will stay on for a minute and then go out and everything is fine. Other times we need to shut the car off and on for the light to go out. Grinding noise only occurs one time in all instances.
We just had a brake job done 3 months ago so I am at a loss as to the problem. This is an 07 FWD Sante Fe.
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I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
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So this is my first 4wd vehicle. I read that to put vehicle in 4wd when the car is running, put the car in neutral and shift the 4wd stick to H or L depending on the driving condition. When I do that, it grinds a little before slipping into the mode. Is this normal? Am I shifting it into 4wd incorrectly? Also, when doing normal road driving on pavement (no rain or snow), should the car be kept in H or N on the 4wd stick?
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When I back up in reverse with my steering wheel turned all the way counter clockwise, I get a rub in my front passenger wheel well. Nothing is hanging down or loose that I can tell in the wheel well.
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