Lexus LS 2007+ :: Thump Sound When Engine Turns Over
May 18, 2016
For last couple of days the car is making a Thump sound when the engine turns over. then it gone- single thump sound....It only happens in the morning if the car is sitting in the garage overnight. I do not hear it if i park the car at work after 8 hours does not make the same sound.
I also feel it takes a bit tad longer to start the car(again only in the morning)- i thought it was the battery but the battery has been replaced 2 years ago.
i will try to record the sound tomorrow and post it. the car is fine once started no funny sounds or anything. Its a 2011 with 71k miles on it.
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I was driving the other day and heard the light thump thump sound behind me. I wasn't sure but its the same as when the door locks are toggled. So I guess the system was locking or trying to lock them. I noticed my passenger door was showing unlocked (Red showing). I manually toggled it but the e-lock over rode opening immediately as I was driving. It just wiggled.
I tested parked at home and the passenger door lock does work. Locks and unlocks with the FOB. The manual passenger lever which should move in/out appears to be disconnected. It moves slightly each time but stays showing Red.
Now to pull the panel off but it s a long hot weekend here. Shops a closed and I expect something is broken. Maybe a plastic tab holding the arm. I'll look into it tomorrow in more depth. This doesn't account for the original sound but it stopped for now.
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This just recently started happening that after a few minutes at idle in park the engine turns off. I did install a DBALL remote start last fall but thats runs until the door is opened but the car wasn't started with the remote nor the door opened.
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I'm using the 2011 Santa Fe.Got few question to ask.
1.When start to move there is a thump noise and sometimes it feel like going over something from the rear area.Happen only when start to move.
2.Using the keyless remote. Sometimes push the rear trunk button to lock and arm the car there but will be a beep sound continuously. Sometimes the rear trunk button are unable to open or arm the alarm system.
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I just picked up a used 2009 LS 460 AWD last week with 45K miles. I have put about 1000 miles on it so far myself.
When I hit any small depression in the road at 10-45 mph I hear a thump in the rear. The bigger the depression and the more weight in the backseat, the louder the thump noise and even an occasional bottoming out feeling occurs. It hasn't happened at highway speeds so far.
The bottoming out feel occurs only with a medium to large depression. I am not talking about a pot hole, just pavement depressions where two sections are not of equal height or you are transitioning from a primary road to a side street and the is a depression to allow for water run off, etc.
If I have someone sitting in the passenger seat and the backseat and accelerate quickly from a dead stop, I get a similar rear thump and even a bottoming out feel. This occasionally occurs even without a without a depression in the road. With no one in the back seat it does not do it unless there is a big depression in the road.
Finally, when cornering on a 270 degree off ramp at 40 to 50 MPH the rear end will start to hop and bounce. If I slow down to 15-20 mph it goes away. Still, it is irritating and embarrassing. I have tried all comfort settings and get the same results.
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2008 ES 350 sway bar replace, confirmed diagnose of metal thump, like dead blow metal to metal, mostly bumps, rough roads. etc, it wasnt' a vibration, but finally moved the sway bar link up and down on jack stands and could see and hear the top joint of the sway bar link moving.
It wasnt a bad job, but if your in the Rust Belt, the nuts aren't happy coming off, and I highly recommend a air saw to ease the pain. If you dont have a saw, and your in the Rust Belt make sure you clean the heck outta the rust in the threads, cause it just jams the works as your easing the nut off the stud.
Need 17mm wrench (i used box end rachet) and 6mm allen , its got that stupid set up off the allen slot in the end of the stud to steady that, and they you gotta work the bolt off at the same time, not a one hand operation.
Start by spraying the snot outta the 17mm nut and stud with Blaster, Hold onto the allen key wrench and I whacked the rachet with a dead blow hammer and was able to get it to bust loose, now you just have to ease the nut off with whatever it'll give you. After I got some room for the air saw blade, I just whacked it with the saw.
Careful if you just start with a cut off operation into the rubber boot of the stud, there is a shoulder that wont allow it to just pull thru, you have to cut the stud on the nut side of the sway bar in order for it to pull thru.
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I first noticed this recently as my wife was pulling out of the driveway into the street... The car wasn't cold, as it had been running for a bit over 5 minutes, warming up. My driveway slopes a bit towards the street and also has a dip/hump at the end of it. As she pulled out in R from P, I heard a thump. I also hear a noise which sounds like the brakes engaging. So in order, brakes engaging, shift from P to R, the thump then as it backs up and turns into the street, there's a slight, faint grind noise.
As the car stops to go from R to D, it thumps again. But as it goes into drive and pulls away..smooth as butter and quiet. I've heard and read that it's possible motor mounts. I'm wondering if the light grinding is the actuator...or perhaps dried out bushings in the control arms... Also read the possibility of the trans going bad, which I highly doubt, but who knows. My plan is to call Lexus in the morning and see if I can be squeezed in.
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I just bought my mother's 2004 GX470 and I tried the voice command button on the steering wheel but no beep sounds and nothing happens. I tried looking up the information in the manual and seems like I'm doing everything right.
Second, when I brake I feel a thump as I release from the brakes, is that normal?
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2008 LS600hl with 30K miles, when de-accelerate/brake I hear like jet engine slowing down sound, I think coming from the CVT/Electric motor area.
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I have an intermittent sound coming from my engine. It shows up out of nowhere and could last 20 seconds to 2 minutes. Because it's intermittent, I can't seem to pinpoint where it's coming from. Sound file is attached.
It's a 2008 with 79K miles.
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I was told yesterday the rattling sound coming from the engine maybe my a/c compressor maybe going out, it's late April in Texas and this is the worst possible time. I have 89000 miles on my 08 ES 350.
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I've been experiencing an intermittent screeching sound that is emitting from the engine compartment. I've attached a zipped sound bite of the screeching sound, starts at about 7 seconds into the recording.
The screeching sound is not audible if the car is moving while in neutral or when it's parked idling. The screeching was noticeable as I gave it gas when parked or was in gear as the car was moving; as though as the RPMs increased a defective belt or pulleys rotational speed is causing the sound?
The sound just started while driving home from the store which is about a 10 min drive, no freeway speeds. I had not driven the car all day and it had been garaged. I had recorded the sound bite once I got home before turning off the car. Restarted the car a few time, sound persisted. Started the car the following day to take to the dealership, no screeching sound, all sounds normal. Possibly engine compartment temperature related?
This is the second time I've experienced this screeching sound, first time was about 2 months ago and had not heard it since until the other day. The dealership was unable to reproduce the sound when I took it in the last time.
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Was driving back home and the check engine light came on, these are the codes I got:
P0345: Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 2)
P0365: Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit (Bank 1)
P0390: Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit
The car drove fine, didn't feel any power loss, I heard a very very low hissing sound but I honestly don't even know if it was always there or not... I did put some gas from a different station for once, so I doubt the fuel caused this?
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I have a 2007 Hyundai sonata and I'm having a strange problem with my car. It doesn't happen alot but whenever I make certain turns the entire front end grinds and stops moving. It usually happens after being parked at an angle then pulling out.
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2007 GX470 120,000 miles. Great vehicle and no problems until now. Seems I have an intermittent engine whine/whirring/zinging sound. I say intermittent because sometimes it there and other times its gone. It is fairly loud. Almost like an extremely loud alternator whine, only this sound is coming from the area near the ac compressor. There is some plumbing which runs just along the left side of the compressor pump and when I grab those lines and the little aluminum cannister in that area, I can feel the vibration in that system, big time. No vibration from the compressor pump though. Not sure what those lines are, but whatever they connect to is probably the culprit.
Its odd because the noise comes and goes. It doesn't fade in/out. It's either full blast loud, or totally gone. Once it's gone, it doesn't come back for a few days. Then one morning i go out and start the truck, and there it is again! Usually lasts for about a day, then it goes away for a week or so. After a week goes by, there it is again! Really odd. I had my mechanic look at it, but it wasn't making any noise that day (as luck would have it). He told me it was an awesome vehicle. Of course I agreed, but that didn't diagnose the problem.
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MY Ls460 2010 AWD is making annoying ticking noise since I bought it 2 months ago ( 76k milage ) , it seems that the sound is mainly coming under the hood on right front fender side .
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Have a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
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My preowned ES came with a remote starter. It works great, however when the vehicle is started using the he remote, as soon as I open the door, the car turns off and I need to restart it. The model I have is Viper 5901. In the manual it says that if I use the Viper remote to unlock the doors, it should not turn the engine off.
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AFS Flashing and there is a clunk in the right rear on turns and it bottoms out over speed bumps . According to service manual and internet search, this combo may be a problem with the rear height control sensor sub assembly or rear No. 2 suspension arm or other suspension issue. AFS flashes because the car height changes affecting the headlight adjustment leading to AFS flash.
Dealer says "Yes sensor is mounted to the control arm and if it's broken in half, it would clunk and cause afs light to flash."
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I just recently traded in my '07 SWB for an '11 LWB (75k miles) and am loving the engine (sans hesitation) and ride etc. etc.
The only thing that's been really bugging me is that during cornering, the body seems to twist and "wind up", and as it does this, something(s) under the body moves and creaks/pops noisily. Then as I straighten the car out or turn the opposite direction, whatever had moved settles back out and I get more creaking/popping.
I thought it might be back door seals or door latch (based on that being a typical german car issue/solution) so I treated the seals and lubricated the latches, but the sounds didn't change at all. I would say, as a guess (tracking down noises can be super deceiving), the sounds seem to be coming from below the floor pan. I also wouldn't say the issue changes with outdoor temperature.
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When hitting the brakes, the 3rd tail light turns off and on in the middle portion of the reflector. The panel is removed from the inside of the car, as the truck has metal surrounding the top area.
How do you remove the 3rd tail light to check for loose connections or to replace the bulb? 2011 ES350...
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