Lexus LS 2007+ :: Tappet Noise After Driving Hard
May 29, 2015
I recently went on a long drive in the country where I got to drive really hard redlining the engine for a good 30 mins or more on a steep winding road ... Great fun but after pulling over for a driver swap and leaving the motor running the engine sounded really noisy and rattly with what sounded to me like tappet noise ... I drove for a further 30 mins at normal speed and the started the next morning when it sounded normal... Why the noise?
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Recently my 2006 Azera Limited with 3.8L V6 is making a valve tappet noise when cold - it goes away when the car is driven a few minutes. It now has 142K on it, is it just that the tappet has gotten 'dirty' and is sticking, or is this a sign of a much more serious problem? I am presuming the Azera has hydraulic tappets. There is no lack of engine performance or misfire at all. I have not yet changed its oil, the dealer I bought it from said they changed the oil when I bought it, just under 3000 miles ago. Could they have used the wrong oil? Too thick a grade? I have heard several other possibilities - the 'oil control valve' I think, or the valve lash being out of adjustment - but wouldn't either of these be constant issues? I'm hoping it's just oil related, which could be fixed easily..
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when i am stopped and turn my steering wheel a lot to either left or right, and i accelerate, there is a loud thumping hammering noise coming from the front of the car.
it also happens when i am turned a lot to the left or right, and i reverse. it sounds like a hammer hitting cement. it only happens when i turn almost all the way to the left or right...?
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Our 07 RX350 has 47,000 miles and I just starting to hear (I think from the front) a faint rattling noise while driving. It's hard to describe but it sort of sounds like what you might expect if an empty plastic bottle was slowly bumping around in a plastic box. It is not a metal on metal type of noise. The shocks/struts appears to pass the old bounce test and the car does not seem to display any of the handling issues you get when you have worn shocks/struts.
I also checked the upper engine compartment to see if any plastic shrouds or covers were loose - they weren't.
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My 2009 LS460 AWD with air suspension now, at 56,000 miles, has this noise frequently during driving and sometimes at idle.
Like an air compressor for a few seconds. It's not loud, but you definitely hear the whine/air type noise. It's almost not even bothersome for me as I've gotten used to it. But when my wife or others are in the car they always ask "what is that"
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I own a stock GS300 2007 RWD doing about 80K miles here in Thailand. I am facing one critical issue with my ride. While driving normally if I hit the brake hard the car seems to loose power then there is a hard knock from the rear which knocks the car forward. I think it is caused from the downshift of the gear, but I am not quite sure. It happens often in the same kind of situation.
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I wish my 09 had Bluetooth for music. I know there was a TSB for it but I was wondering if I can do an easy fix myself to remedy the whining noise you get through the speakers when you use both the aux cord and a charger at the same time while driving.
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I hear a bit of a squeaking noise. Very minimal. Coming from back when I'm on rough roads. Is that normal. Sounds like it might be from coilover or somewhere in the back.
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I have a 2007 Honda Element. When I am driving at slower speeds (<20mph) and turn sharply the vehicle shudders very hard. What is causing this?
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Burning oil smell but can't figure out where or why.
No Drips (checked standing on dry ground).
No Drips (checked after spraying water down on ground).
Checked Oil, level doesn't change.
Checked Transmission, level doesn't change.
Only thing that has changed is that i went with a 5w-40 oil about 4000km ago. Could it be burning minute amounts of oil during driving under hard conditions (mountains/hills)?
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Tonight while driving and accelerating fairly hard we began to hear a noise. The car sat parked for roughly 5 hours and then we began to drive it home (apx. 12-15 miles). About halfway through the drive the power steering went out and the battery light came on. The battery light would turn off and the drivers seatbelt light would come on even while it was buckled. These two lights alternated being on and off 2 times each. We heard something that sounded like a rock got kicked up into a wheel well. After getting the car home with no power steering we noticed the car had begun to run very hot. almost all the way up the gauge.
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In the last two days I've noticed that my steering wheel would suddenly have intermittent episodes of being hard to turn for a second or so. It has gotten progressively worse over the last 24 hours or so where when trying to make a right turn the steering wheel feels noticeably "heavy" during the turn. And in some cases after I make a turn onto a side street I let go of the steering wheel for it to straighten itself out so I can continue straight down the street I just turned on but the steering wheel doesn't straighten itself out quickly enough like it used to and I have to physically turn it back myself otherwise I'd start making a u-turn motion and careen into a parked car. Weird.
I can only conclude that there's something wrong with my power steering rack.
FYI, I have a 2009 460 SWB AWD with about 78k miles on it.
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I have a 2007 LS460L. Bought it new and have loved it dearly for 6 years now. It now has 70k miles and is under an extended warranty purchased at 50k miles. As a first year model it has had a ton of TSBs done on it.
The problem i have had as long as i can remember is a lag or stutter during medium to hard acceleration. It feels a little like the old turbo lag or like a very mild stutter. It has had the transmission adjusted, had the service manager driver it for a week to try and capture on computer etc. But nothing has fixed it. At times it feels like if you watch the tachometer during these moments you can actually see a bounce (I may be imagining).
I have almost given up and just lived with it. We have tried tranny, type of oil, software tweaks etc.
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I have a 2010 Lexus Es350, and I am having this issue:
When accelerating hard, the car will aggressively drift to the right. During normal driving it is otherwise fine.
When braking from 60-70mph, I will also get a significant vibration in the steering wheel.
What can be the issue here? I've read possible brake rotor, tire out of balance, alignment?
Are these 2 issues connected?
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I have purchased LS 460, 2010 with 21000 miles on it. Dealer said he put new Kumho tires on it. But the power steering feels hard, and is not even as soft as my Honda Pilot 2009. I have made an appointment with Lexus dealership for this concern ( I had the vehicle checked by Lexus store before purchasing.) I have read good reviews about Michelin tires, am wondering perhaps I need better quality tires. Do not know what the dealer is going to recommend.
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My wife's van just had an issue. Of course this happens when I am about to go in a business trip. Let me start by saying that we have never had a problem with this van. It now has around 75,000 miles on it, and was last driven yesterday. We went to start it up this morning, and it was very difficult to get running. If you wanted to stall, (had to keep my foot on the gas and I could tell the motor was missing), but I'm more concerned with the metallic top end tapping the motor was making. It sounded like a bad valve tap so I turned the motor off , checked the oil level to make sure I did not leak the oil out (last checked three days ago when I got gas). The level was fine, so I started the motor again.. ran the same but this time cleared up and ran fine with in 10 seconds. The noise went away and it ran smooth as silk again. Turned it on and off a few times and it was fine each time. My wife is driving it now and says it feels fine. The motor it self is still under warranty but not the ignition or fuel parts.
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So I recently purchased a 2007 LS460 with 115k on it. I've noticed that about a month ago the car started driving pretty weird. The transmission would shift hard and jerky almost through the first 3 gears, like driving a manual.
Also, when I tried to floor the car from maybe 40-50mph, the rpm would shoot up only 500 then downshift and accelerate causing a violent jerk. It feels like if I was driving at 50mph on 8th gear, when I floored it the car would feel like it downshifted to 7th gear for merely less than a second and downshifted again to 4th gear causing the car to jerk hard.
This is the car's history:
- Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (no luck)
- Auto transmission software has been updated at the dealer
- Valve springs recall has been completed
- Head covers has been changed
- Engine module has been reprogrammed by the dealer at 70k miles
- Trans fluid has been changed at 70k miles according to lexus.com service record
So at this point I really don't know what could cause this problem anymore, maybe it could be the transmission fluid?
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My trunk will open with the FOB and cabin switch.......it will start to open, then reach about 2/3 open and then stops and closes hard. I have a custom interior panel that may be too much weight for the lid, but even when I assist it going up, it still stops and closes hard.
Is there a way to either manually override the auto open/close, or change the sensitivity of the auto close actuator?
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I have a 2007 Camry SE V6. Under moderate to hard acceleration, it sounds like a deep throaty sound coming from where the intake/throttle body is located, almost as if I have a SRI, but I do not. I checked for anything loose, hoses, airbox, etc. Then checked the intake resonator below and to the left of the battery, all seemed normal. Everything seems normal! Only happens when I push the accelerator a little more than usual, for example, when I go on the highway.
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When I drive the 460 on the highway it tends to constantly wander, always needing minor correction. The tires are Michelin Pilot MXM4 18s set to Lexus recommendations, the tire wear is excellent.
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What is happening is my driver's side low beam light goes out while driving. I usually can notice a little flickering of my headlights prior to this happening and then all of a sudden the left bulb goes out. I then shut off my headlights for a second and turn them back on - and they tend to stay on for the remainder of my journey. This now happens every time I use them. It goes out, I shut them off, turn them back on...then the problem tends to be gone for the rest of my trip...unless I shut the car off, then it will happen again (once per drive cycle it seems).
I imagine it's not a bulb because those either work, or they're burned out. I would think perhaps it's a loose connection, but it happens only once per drive cycle and it happens every single time. Loose connections aren't as predictable as that.
I'm not really sure what the headlight systems of these cars include...weather it be resisters, modules, motors, etc. I realize the headlights turn when the steering wheel does, so there is a motor involved. I know when I bought my car the driver's side headlight assembly was replaced, but it didn't give me any troubles for the first year I've owned it. It is very cold where I am right now, with temperatures in the often falling into the single digits.
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