Lexus LS 2007+ :: Rust On The Inside Of Steering Shaft?
Dec 11, 2012
As you can see in the picture below, there is rust on the joint.. I have two identical 2008 LS 600 HLs. Only one has rust on the joint. Both have rust on the bracket on the left.. It seems unusual that Lexus would have rusted parts on the inside, so quickly.
None of us would think of checking it. The location is above the accelerator pedal, under the steering. I saw it accidentally, because someone asked me to take a picture of the two buttons in that location (one turns pcs off and other is for TPMS).
Here is the link to the picture : [URL] ....
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Problem is two fold. First......my grill "Ford" emblem is chipping and fading. Second....there is rust along the inside edge of the tailgate near the weep holes. I have been told the rust must perforate the area in order for it to be covered by warranty. Truck is pretty close to pristine condition and two service reps said rust is coming from the inside of the tailgate. Doesn't make sense to me to wait for the rust to get really nasty before it being covered by warranty. I bet a new tailgate cost more than that!!!! Hey whats the deal with the eroding "Ford" emblem??? Looks like the coating is flaking off and letting the blue paint fade away. I don't think this is normal but that too doesn't seem to be covered by warranty !! Maybe I should think twice about my next vehicle !!!!! Comments ??????
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While rotating the tires I've noticed heavy rusting on the flanges that the wheels are bolted to, in fact the rear ones were stuck to the flanges. It looks like the VW logo on the wheels is not hermetically sealing the area and water/salt get in and create a rust heaven.
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I'm doing PPE headers right now but stuck with steering shaft I removed 1 bolt in the car and 2 in the engine bay on the shaft.... but there's just not enough give to slide the shaft out. I need a crash course on this thing pictures photos or whatever would be nice.
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I noticed the rust spots on the wheel hub on R32s. Is that normal?
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I own a 2011 lariat with 500 miles. We have had several days of rain and I am getting alot of rust spots on my driveway always below and inside the right front tire. None in the rear or left front. Dealer said not to worry about it after they looke at the area. They said it is the new metal forming surface rust. There is a skid plate which seems to cover wherever the rust is starting. Should I demand that area be undercoated.
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once a year i remove all my seats (yes i unbolt front and rear seats and vacuum real good) and when i lifted the rear bench seat back from the rear wall i noticed THIS to some it might not seem like a big deal but to me this is a HUGE problem, i know my trucks a 2004 but whats gonna happen another ten years from now and longer down the road if i don't stop this now? Im gonna have to be buying or making a repair panel for the rear cab thats what! I plan on keeping my truck forever and buy a new truck down the road so i want this one to last, only thing i can think of is the rear sliding window rubber seal is leaking and letting the water get between the two body panels? From outside where the cab corner meets the center body panel piece none of the factory body sealer is missing or cracked so it has to be the rear slider seal?
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Replaced the Intermediate Steering Shaft at 114,000 miles. Symptoms felt like power steering going out but no pump noise or low fluid. Steering became hard to turn and it sometimes felt like a tie rod was letting go.
Temporary resolution was to spray the two steering shaft joints with penetrating oil (PB Blaster). That freed them up pretty well. Then I ordered Dorman part 425361 (425-361) from Rock Auto. Simple enough job. Lots of good vids on YouTube.
I don't recommend spraying the steering shaft joints as preventative maintenance. Penetrating oil will get into the needle bearings and break down the bearing grease. That will cause the joints to fail over time.
Two side benefits, the truck steering is much smoother and small road bumps and potholes are much less noticeable. Feels like it was when new.
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My trunk won't open from the inside or with the key fob? The only way to open the trunk is by detaching the key and using it manually. What gives....
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Bought this 2010 ES 350 before last winter, never use the air-con until last week. After the air-con was turned off, here comes the odor! The fumes were so bad that I had to open up all the windows. Did take out the air filter to clearn, but odor still come back after air-con was turned off.
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2007 Es350 with 60k. Boot is not cracked or split and does not have any holes. It appears to be leaking where the big band is next to the tx.
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So I've been getting this weird cracking noise from inside my car. Sounds like its coming from the rear side of the headliner. This always happens when I'm turning in or out of a driveway or over a speed bump. What it could be. Usually at low speeds and usually when I'm turning. It is very annoying!
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2010 ES350, 84,000 miles. I have seen many threads on door locking/unlocking issues but none quite like mine that I've been able to locate. The key fob stopped locking the doors a few weeks ago, neither will the lock button on the drivers door inside the car. No sounds, beeps, lights or mechanical attempts to lock the doors. There are no indicator lights or messages suggesting an issue.
I can go around and manually lock all the doors, hit the lock on the key fob, and the car will beep and light up as if the locks worked fine. I also manually locked each door separately and in all combinations, the only combination which will enable the beep as if the door locks work with the fob is if they are all locked. The fob will unlock the doors however, unlocking has not been an issue.
My first attempt to correct was to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect and they worked fine for a week or so. The next time, with all the same symptoms, disconnecting the battery did nothing, the fob, however did start working a day or two later. The third time it happened we took the car directly to the dealership who has had it for 5 days and have been unable to identify an issue (the fob started to work on day 3).
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I finally traded in my car and picked up a black 2010 ES 350, CPO, with 33k miles. However, i feel a vibration inside the vehicle while the car is idling (even when it is fully warmed up) and i was wondering if this is normal on these models? I have owned a is250, and ls460 and I didn't really notice anything like it. It almost feels like my ex's toyota camry when idling (not as loud of course). Is there a recall that fixes it? or is this normal with FWD vehicles?
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I know you can open all windows and moon roof by holding down the remote fob door unlock button.
I know you can close all windows and moon roof by holding down the lock button on the outside door handles
Question; Is there any way to close all windows and moon roof with a single button from inside the car?
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Just done a five mile journey at urban speeds (20-40mph). I find that any kind of unevenness in the road is distinctly felt inside the car. Things like drain covers. I'm not sure if this is normal or a fault?
The car is a new to me 07 ls460 with air suspension, 19" wheels and fairly new Dunlop Sport tyres. I've set the car to comfort mode.
I'm thinking that I should get the suspension checked out, so if there is something wrong hopefully I can get the dealer to rectify it now. Are there any particular things to check?
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How to get rid of the rust build up inside the exhaust right at the exit point. The dual exhaust is in front of the right rear tire. 2005 f-150 5.4.
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It appears the knock I heard isn't from the suspension, its from the intermediate steering shaft. You can actually feel it in the steering wheel. The vehicle is out of warranty. I still don't understand why toyota wont fix this since its a known flaw in the design of the car.
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2000 Crown Victoria, 172K I recently tore into the car's steering components because just about all of them were pretty heavily worn out (including one brand-new tie rod that already busted its boot). I got everything out fairly easily except for the pitman arm: That thing broke THREE pullers trying to yank it off the sector shaft. I finally had to get an angle grinder and cut the thing off, which I did by slicing away metal on both sides until I was able to pry it off. It looks like that despite being as careful as I possibly could be, I nicked the sector shaft in a couple of spots. One is a small spot at the bottom of the threaded part for the pitman arm nut, which is making it tough to get the nut to bite. Another is at the top where the pitman arm engages the sector shaft splines. Two questions: - Is there a really large tap-and-die set somewhere then I can use to clean up the threads? Never seen one this size before. Failing that, will using a small file be enough to deburr the threads and allow the nut to engage? - Will the nicks on the splines cause trouble with getting the new pitman arm seated properly?
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I have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?
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I have a 2009 Camry 5Speed Manual and have had a noise and loud thud coming from my steering whenever i turn the wheel when I am accelerating out of first gear when disengaging the clutch and turning the wheel. For example, if I am in a parking lot and am traveling at extremely low speeds and turning the wheel while in first gear I can hear and feel a thud in the steering wheel.
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