I noticed the RPM's are higher than they used to be when accelerating slowly.
My car is an awd hybrid 600h with a CVT (110.000 miles) .. Do i have to check the transmission fluid? How?
Is my clutch or whatever it's called dying?
My car is still under warranty, but I'm not sure if wearable parts are included.
I have an 07 LS460 with 65k miles.
Within last couple days I noticed a clicking sound when reversing and accelerating forward slowly.
This occurs most of the time when accelerating while wheel is turning (like after you back out of driveway and slowly turn straight to pull away)
I've also noticed the click when pulling into garage and braking.
I just got this 2007 Mazda6 S Sport Value Edition for free from a family member. It has an automatic transmission.
While driving it in a parking lot I noticed that the car was make some kind of a rattling noise whenever I start accelerating slowly from around 1000ish rpms. After that the noise disappears. The first time hearing something like this was in a Prius I rented, though I don't think this affects performance at all. I am wondering if this is normal?
Also the car has being sitting unused for about a couple of months before I picked it up. I noticed immediately a burning smell after driving it, somewhere under the driver side, which makes me suspect if it has something to do with the transmission. I know very little about fixing cars of course but I also own a manual transmission car, and this smell kinda reminds me of a burning clutch.
The car drives great. The transmission seems to work fine. No slipping. Driving around those hills in San Francisco just fine.
I bought a new 2014 Elantra last Monday. Around 100 miles (Wednesday) I noticed it was making a ticking noise when accelerating. The sound gets louder at higher RPMs and goes away when I get off of the accelerator. You can't hear it over the radio but it's embarrassing when my passengers do. It almost sounds like a puff of air escaping or something, similar to a go-kart engine lol.
Anyways, I took it to the dealer Thursday and they drove it and said the noise was normal during the engines break-in period and if it persists after 15k to bring it back and they would see if there was something that needed tightening.
Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
So I bought this 2007 used with 86K on the engine. After 2 days cats code went off and i had both replaced with brand new ones. Now my truck is making a rattling as i step on the gas at about 2500 rpms. Its sounds like metal in a can swirling around amd as i let off gas the sound stops. It happens often, also the other day in was pulling off and heard a grind for about 2 seconds then stopped never beard it again, it sounds like its coming from the rear passenger side. It sounds like a bearing. This is the noise.
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For the first mile or so on cold mornings, by transmission shifts slowly - sort of a second or two delay until the car warms up. Is this normal?
View 3 RepliesI just got my Golf 7 (1.4 TSI 122PS 7Speed Dry DSG). I love the car but I have an issue making my driving a lot more stressful in tight traffic and parking. I just wanted to ask if this is an issue specific to my car or something happens to all Golfs.
When trying to take off with a very little throttle pressure, car starts to pull away very slowly at the beginning and then it jumps forward in a much higher speed even though I do not increase the throttle pressure. It even happens if I lift my foot from the throttle before jump happens. Because of this I cannot make very slow maneuvers because I cannot simply go very slowly and consistently. I am a complete rookie when it comes to cars but it feels like turbo coming into play after a certain engine rpm causing this. For the record this happens both in D or R.
I know I can creep using the brake but I heard that is very bad for dsg so I am trying not to do that. Also I cannot do that while Auto hold is on and I don't want to turn it off since it is a very handy feature in stop & go traffic which is usual in where I live. Also my steering wheel does not center itself automatically so I am doing it manually.
My 2011 ES350 has 49k miles on it (just got it last week).
I just noticed that when moving slowly (with and without accelerating) I can hear a slight whistle sound that resembles a bird chirp coming from what I think is a wheel.
My dad can't hear the sound (I'm thinking the frequency is too high for his ears) but it is definitely there and I can hear it clearly.
The sound comes and goes but something is not right. Wonder what it is?
Checked the MPG Since Last Fillup numbers against computing the actual miles driven and fuel used manually? I find the (2011 460) numbers to be consistently 2 mpg or more higher than actuality. To be as accurate as I could I used the same pump at each filling, letting it stop automatically when full. I now wonder at the accuracy of the "total mpg"--which shows 14.1 for 15,000 miles. I drove 5000 of those, and never got more than 12.5 mpg (by the Lexus meter.)
View 11 RepliesEngine idling on D and idling on N/P. Mine sometimes runs at 600, sometimes at 650. When I steer, rpm should go higher but it doesn't go.
View 2 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2008 with around 120k miles on it. It's been pretty flawless but yesterday the RPMs started surging while idle and made kind of a high pitch humming noise when accelerating.
Today on her way to work she said the radio was going in and out, the battery light lit up and then the rest of the dash lights came on, and the speedometer stopped working.
What could be the problem? Could it just be the battery?
I'm new to the Lexus family. I recently bought a 2007 rx 350. It's in wonderful condition. I noticed that when I go above 60ish, I hear what sounds like a draft or a static-like sound. I've turned the radio off, air off, turned on re-circulated air, made sure all the windows are up, but no matter what I still hear it. I had a small Honda Civic before so I don't know if it's getting used to the aerodynamics of an suv? It almost sounds like there's a "crack" that's allowing air to come through the but there isn't. I don't notice it at all when I'm driving around town, only really on the interstate. It's most noticeable when in the drivers seat. I wasn't sure if it's just the nature of the ventilation system of this vehicle or should I have it checked? Am I just over analyzing?
View 6 Replies1.8t.. When the car is in neutral or the clutch is pushed in if i rev the engine to 2000 rpm's then it sticks and VERY slowly goes down. anything past 2000 RPMs it doesn't stick tho and goes right down? What could be causing this? I have already cleaned my throttle body out and it did nothing.
View 13 RepliesI'm about 100 miles into the break in period and I knew there would be chatter at idle but there also seems to be a lot of chatter driving around especially accelerating slowlyish from under 3,000 rpms in 4th. Is this normal or do i have a possibly botched install?
View 20 RepliesThe other night I threw an EPC light. I've tried reading older posts but haven't found anything.
I was at the top of a hill, slowly engaging the clutch while accelerating. I wasn't trying to floor it or anything. My car immediately went into limp mode and the EPC light came on. I pulled over, restarted the car, and it went away. It happened again the next day in the same place.
I am only having the problem on a steep hill while engaging the clutch. Other than this situation, the car seems to be running fine. The car is completely bone stock. I don't have a VAGCOM and can't really afford to purchase one at the moment.
I have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
so there is no visible signs of a boost leak and my boost gauge shows normal vacuum at idle indicating its not a vacuum leak, yet in the higher rpms im loosing boost.
View 22 RepliesOver the past couple of days, my wife and I have been noticing that our B6 (2.0 Auto/Tip) is shifting at around 4000 rpms. I'll probably be taking it in to have the dealer look into it but wanted to see if the community has experienced anything similar to the issue at hand.
It shifts (Appox):
1st into 2nd - 3200 rpms
2nd into 3rd - 3800 - 4200 rpms
3rd into 4th - 3500 rpms
4th into 5th - 3000 rpms
5th into 6th - 2500 rpms
Notes:
* the appox amounts above are at regular driving acceleration.
* while in Drive - "D" mode
* used to shift into all gears between 2500-2900 rpms
* doesn't shift nearly as smooth as in the past
Is it OK to slip into "Sport" from "Drive" while Driving? How about slipping into Tiptronic while using "D" or "S"?
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I have an APR Stage 1 flash done about 3 months ago and I absolutely love it and never had any issues.
I always leave my car in program two which is the 93 octane. I was driving home yesterday and when I was in the higher gears and accelerating in like 3rd or 4th and got the rpms up to 3500 to 4000 the car would stutter pretty hard. At one point it stuttered like 3 times in a row and then the check engine light blinked about 10 times and went away. When I got home I put the car back into stock mode and tried the same thing, but it ran smoothly with no issues.
Experienced this with the APR stage one flash. I'm thinking maybe it could be bad gas or the program didn't get set correctly, but not sure. I am going to put it back into the 93 program today and see if it still does the same thing.
I just installed a gt2871 turbo and I'm experiencing fuel dump at higher rpms. It's just like it dies at the top. My buddy said I probably need new injectors.
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