Lexus LS 2007+ :: Passenger Window Will Not Go Down All The Way - Stop About An Inch From Bottom
Jun 5, 2013
My battery got too low and messed up my passenger window after charged. The issue now is...the strangest issue I've seen.. The passenger window! If I push the down button where it will automatically go down it just goes down and stops about an inch from hitting the bottom, If I push the up button to automatically go up BUT it will automatically goes down by itself when it hit the top and stop about an inch from bottom..
If I push the button soft to go up slowly and then let go the button when it reach the top it will stay.. Like I said it will not go down all the way, stop about an inch from bottom.
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Well it was a good run but after 6 years and 43,000 miles the window tab broke on the passenger window and now the window is off track on my 2007 ES 350. From everything I have read it's going to be a fairly expensive repair as the window will need to be replaced also.
I know there is a TSIB on this but, the car needs to be 48 months or 50,000 miles for it to be covered. I didn't know if I reached out to Lexus for some relief on this if they would at least cover some of the cost.
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On my 2007 Lexus ES350, the front passenger window does not stay up.
Using either the driver's switch or the passenger door switch, the window rolls up to the top, then comes back down (the other three windows work fine).
With deft manipulation of the switch, I can get it almost closed.
The only recent 'event' on the car is that I changed the eight year-old OEM battery two weeks ago; the window began acting up two days ago.
Is this programming that was lost when the battery was removed, or am I looking a regulator/pinch motor issue?
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That's the window regulator, right? It works fine but sounds like a computer printer from 1987 when it goes up and down. I've owned 3 5th gen ES cars and every single one had the problem. I stopped by the dealer today to use my aftermarket warranty to replace but they said they wanted a $150 diagnostic fee.
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Yesterday my passenger front window popped out of it's track. Then when we tried to pop it back in and get it to go back up, it completely popped out and up about 3 inches from the frame of the door. Enough to be able to fit a had through no problem.
I am taking the car in tomorrow to have it looked at and get a quote to fix. From what I've read, it's a super pricey fix. So bummed because I just bought the car about 6 weeks ago (if that) ...
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I'm interested in changing my wife's 18 inch wheels on her luxury edition Gs 350 to 20 inch wheels. what comfort level from the 18 ' s to the 20's I would loose. I know there will be a comfort lost , but is it major..
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I have driven two Lexus IS 250's with the standard 17" wheels. I am considering trading up to the 2014 model, which appears to often come with 18" wheels on the AWD model (which is what I am looking for).
What differences can I expect on the 18" wheels vs. what the 17" gives now?
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The far end of my passenger side wiper has been leaving about a 2 inch wide arcing streak lately. I figured I needed new inserts, so I replaced them yesterday. The passenger side wiper is still streaking in the exact same place. I know I put the new inserts in correctly, including installing the little metal clip at the end of the insert. What could be the problem? Could I need a new wiper blade? Do those things go bad?
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Putting 17-inch wheels on an LS460/600h (without sport brakes)? The rotors are the same size as the IS350 which comes with 17-inch, but the calipers are different, just curious if it's ever been done. I know most people go up in size, but maybe someone has done it for winter tires or something.
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Perhaps a strange question, but is there any way the pedal height can be decreased. On my 2010 LS 460 it seems to be higher than on my previous 2005 LS 430 to the extent that I lift my foot off the accelerator pedal and miss the top of the brake pedal. It's happened often enough that I've been wondering if it could be reduced an inch or so.
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My friends passat's window will only roll up 90%. it leaves a one inch gap open. I have searched but can't seem to find this particular problem. most of the search results were for windows that would not move up or down at all.
Is this a simple adjustment by holding the buttons down and then up method? or is it a mechanical adjustment like the window sliding down in the carrier? or worse yet, does it sound like the failed clips or a regulator?
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I have been observing the passenger window for weeks. It is definitely slower than the driver one going up. No problem going down. The passenger window seems to stop at some point then slowly keeps on going up. That does not look right, it is definitely getting worse and I am ready to open the door panel. That would be my first time with a door panel.
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The passenger window on my 07 Santa Fe isn't working. I took everything apart and I even removed the motor from the door and it seems like there is just constant power going to the motor because when I plug it in the motor starts going even before I hit the switch.
I also removed the motor from the regulator too and the regulator seems fine and no cables are broken or off their wheels. When I do hit the window switch either way the window motor stops too. I'm not sure if my issue is on the driver side switch or the passenger side because both do the same thing...
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Ok on my 07 camry se, my right front passenger window rattles when in the up position. I noticed after the car has been sitting for awhile, that it's quiet but when I decide to open the window and then close it it starts to rattle. Now this happens when driving over bumps or have the music turned up.
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I have a 07 Sonata. The front passenger side power window is not working. How can I determine whether its the window motor or regulator?
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About a month ago, I noticed my 2007 Mazda3 making a rattling noise whenever the front passenger window is anywhere from cracked to almost all the way down. When the window is up or all the way down, there is no noise. When the door is in it's "sound-prone" state, I can replicate the sound either by going over a bump or just pulling and pushing on the door interior door handle. I've looked this up online and it seems to be pointing toward me needing a new window regulator. I haven't noticed any function loss, just the rattling sound that makes it sound like the car's falling apart. Does this seem like the right thing to try? What would cause the regulator to malfunction after only four years? Should I buy new or look for it at the local salvage yards? If it matters, my Mazda3 has electric windows.
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Traveling down Highway 27 yesterday in my 2007 Santa Fe, doing 65 MPH, when all of a sudden I hear a tapping at the passenger seat window. There it was, the gasket that surrounds my windshield had pulled loose and was flapping in the wind, occasionally tapping on the window.
I have never had the windshield replaced nor had any notion there was a problem. I had no tools with me but tried to force the gasket back into its place. Lasted only a couple miles.
Took it to the Hyundai dealer in Ft. Myers who proceeded to tell me they didn't do windshields and that it was not covered under the warranty. I have 44000 miles and it is a 2007. Does that seem right?
I can understand light bulbs, oil changes and things like that not being covered, but rubber gaskets around the windshield?
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The driver side window goes up/down faster than the passenger one. I believe it has always been like that. Do you think that is a feature? Why is that? Could that be a defect?
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The front passenger window on my 2007 Sonata has always been sluggish. Recently it broke (I heard something snap) when I tried to roll it down on a cold day. I decided I want to take a shot at fixing it myself before bringing it in to the mechanic. I've made some progress but I'm having trouble removing the inner door panel where the window regulator mechanism is.
The window can be pushed down or pulled up by hand fairly easily, but there's enough resistance (for now) to hold it in place and keep it from just dropping down into the door.
I removed the main door panel without any problems. The window regulator cables and mechanism are behind a second panel that I'm having trouble removing and I can see through the holes in the inner panel that the window is still attached to the two "lifters".
I haven't been able to find a lot of detailed instructions for this step. I've been following the steps outlined in some this youtube video [URL] ...., but there seems to be something I'm missing when I try to get the panel off.
I have freed the black adhesive around the edge of the panel, and I've removed all the main bolts on the inside of the door, the 3 bolts at the door latch, detached the inner door handle and removed the outer door handle, but I still can't get much movement in the panel to free it. I'm hesitant to tug or pry the panel too hard because I don't want to bend the metal at all and ruin the fit with the door.
Is there any trick to loosening the panel so that it comes out and I can get behind it? Do I need to slide or rotate it, or is it held by any clips similar to the ones that held the main door panel? Most of the resistance seems to be coming from the area to the right of the speaker (between the speaker and where the inside handle to close the door would be). I can try to provide more details if necessary.
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My passenger side window won't roll down. Everything else on the door works including the mirror. Guessing the motor, is there a way to check it?
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At the 150K mile mark electromechanical components are starting to fail (Nav DVD reader, CD changer, 2 starters (they seem good for only ~70K miles), brake switch, etc.) which is probably reasonable to expect, even in a non-humid climate. Recently, the controls for the passenger side window stopped working. Some details:
- Driver's side window control works to control driver's side window
- Passenger side window switch LEDs are not lit on either door
- Passenger side window rolls up and down when top is changed to up or down position
Given that the motor is proven good by the fact that the window goes up and down with no problems when the top's position is changed, I'm inclined to think that there is probably an issue with the "COMPUTER MPX DOOR" component in the passenger door.
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