Lexus LS 2007+ :: Noise Seems Repeated Every 30 Second / Battery Drain
Feb 8, 2012
A couple days ago the engine wouldn't start. I thought it was a dead battery (installed 5 months ago), so I brought a mechanic with a new battery. While the mechanic was working on replacing the battery, I heard some discrete noise coming out from under the hood and windshield area (driver's side). I didn't pay much attention.
Now, when I switch off the car, I can hear the noise (it's like the door's closer sound but with higher interval and it comes out about every 30 seconds). When I'm at complete stop, I hear the noise with the rpm dropping a tiny bit until the noise fades away when the rpm gets back to the normal level. The episode is repeated every 30 seconds or so. Today I felt the battery started to drain (it took longer to start the car).
LS460, '08, VSR fix done 1 year & 30K miles ago. No other problems or symptoms.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2007 LS460L. It hasn't been driven in three or four days. Today we found the car was completely dead. I had to get into the car with the manual key. The battery is one year old. The AAA person found that the light switch was set on parking lights rather than automatic. Could that have drained the battery. I thought that the lights turn off after you leave the car.
View 4 Replies
This noise appeared for an hour, haunted us with regular appearances, then disappeared as soon as I drove the car to my trusted mechanic. I never heard the sound over the 6 years we've owned the vehicle and it hasn't come back. This sound was regular and repeated while driving, breaking, stopped in gear and even parked and idling. No vibrations or abnormal operation of the vehicle. Sounded like it was coming from somewhere right in front of the driver. Mechanic was stumped-something in the ABS system. Noise coming from under hood right in front of driver-2.wav.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2007 Sonata. The parking lights won't switch off without a turning the lights on and off for some time. Repeated attempts can turn them off, but you have to check the car in a hour to see if they have come back on. The dealer stated this was a known defect of the fuse box assy, but there is no recall. 800.00 repair according to the dealer.Without an alternative, I am considering ordering the assy and changing myself.
View 5 Replies
We have had a problem with our SC430 battery going dead if it sits more than a week. We have had this car for a number of years and I am tired of putting a trickle charger on it all the time to keep it from going dead!
I can not believe that Lexus does not know what the big drain is on this vehicle when it sits even for a small period of time....I went to a Lexus dealer several years ago to have a new timing belt/water pump put in it and asked how to keep my battery from going dead. They pointed over the parts counter to a motorcycle type battery charger as they answer!
A friend has a late model Mercedes hardtop convertible, they (Mercedes) solved the problem by putting two batteries in it. One is isolated for just cranking! So, before I start with a fully charged battery and pulling every fuse and disconnecting everything until I find it. What is the big battery eater?
View 14 Replies
Is the remote starter going to drain your battery faster? is it why a lot of CL members having a battery problem? My friend said his dealer told him so that he didn't get a remote starter for his car. Is it true?
View 7 Replies
I checked my rx350 battery health and it is good. Still I am having recurrent issues when battery dies. And needs a restart. It happened many times and last one just happened this morning and I have feeling that this is related to rear hatch door...let me explain what happened:
Yesterday evening I went for grocery shopping and opened the rear hatch door using my car key remote, kept the groceries and closed the rear hatch using the button on the bottom of rear hatch door. I drove back to home and parked the vehicle in the garage. This morning I opened the rear hatch again and closed it, drove it to a house one block away, returned home and parked the car.
When I tried to start 1 hour later, the battery had already died. So, I have a feeling that opening and closing the rear hatch door 3 times caused this battery drain.
View 14 Replies
I've noticed a lot of small leaves going down the small vented drain holes at the bottom of the rear window but cant find a way to remove the cover and clean out what must be years of accumulated rubbish .
View 3 Replies
Just picked up a Ctek 3300 battery charger for my 2008 LS460L since we only drive it a few days a week. Is it safe to connect directly to the battery under the hood?
Where is the ideal spot to jump start on an LS? Reason I ask is that my BMW 6series have the battery at the back trunk but for any charging or jump starts it must be done under the hood where there is a terminal that goes to the battery.
View 8 Replies
I started noticing that when I shift the car into reverse to back out of the driveway, the car door locks sound like they are trying to lock/unlock repeatedly for a couple of seconds. I know the car automatically locks the door when I shift out of park, but the multiple retries is a new behavior. All doors do lock. I do have the child locks enabled for the rear doors and that hasn't changed in 3-4 years. I also disabled them and the retries persist.
I have also noticed that around the same time (past month?) I must push the unlock button on the keyless entry remote twice to unlock all the doors--including the driver side door. In the past I only had to push the button once to just unlock the driver's door and the side lamps would flash, but one push doesn't do anything anymore. I've never changed the battery in the remote, but does the car care that the remote battery may be running low to exhibit this behavior? It's a 2010 SF with 52K miles.
View 5 Replies
After searching for the Prius that I wanted, I settled on a 2008 Prius Touring with 171xxx miles. The car was at a sales lot 300 miles away. After a few phone calls pertaining to the Prius, I arranged to meet the lot owner roughly 1/2 way in between for the purchase. We met. Owner said that several dash lights came on as they were driving to meet me. (Yes, I believe him.) He talked with his mechanic, and was told that the problem was most likely the ABS control module (p/n 44510-47050). Owner agreed to shipping me a good used ABS module and discounted the vehicle a bit. I drove it home.
The brake, (!), ABS, and VSC lights are "on"when the car is in the "ready" mode. The parking brake is not on. When I walk up to the car (with SKS fob in my pocket) and open the door, I hear a noise that sounds like water running through an outside faucet that's only partially opened. For identification purpose, I will refer to this noise as a "hissing" noise. When in "ready" mode , the ABS system "cycles", with about 4 seconds hissing, then about 10 seconds not hissing, repeated over and over.
In ready mode (under the hood), the inverter pump is humming away just fine, and the coolant can be seen flowing in it's reservoir. My biggest question is that I have read about others with the unwanted dash lights, but not any with this hissing noise. Does the ABS module replacement sound like it will most likely cure the problem?
And btw, after disconnecting both batteries and waiting for the proper time period, is it really necessary to use the insulated gloves? Years ago, I used Toyota repair manuals, and after receiving the Haynes manual, I'm a bit disappointed.
View 19 Replies
Here's the issue-We're in Wisconsin, and it has been cold lately.After not driving her car for about five days, my wife's 2008 Dodge Caliber would not start. It gave her a repeated clicking noise, and all the electrical inside the car came on. I jumped the car, and it started just fine, drove it around for about 30 minutes, no battery indicator on the dash, cut the engine, started it right back up. The next morning, the car would not start again- same situation, clicking noise, everything in the car working (but nothing was left on).I went and picked up a new battery, but was having trouble getting the old one out. This time, though, the car won't take a jump. I checked the electrolyte levels, and they appear fine. I let the car charge on the cables (which are nice ones, not cheap, thin ones) for 15 minutes and more, and the most I got out of the car was a weak attempt to turn over, but mostly just the repeated clicking noise. I can't even jump the thing to get it looked at, and its in a narrow alley that will make towing next to impossible.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T. Over 8 Hrs the battery goes from 12 to 10V and the start is real sluggish. I'm going to test the load on the battery when it is just sitting there to see if there is a short somewhere. I'm wondering what the load should be from the clock and radio which draw power even when off.
It is 4+ years old so it might be just time for a new battery..... Alternator is working....14V on the battery when the engine is running...... so there is charge form the alternator.....
View 5 Replies
Installed an RNS-510 in my 2006 Passat, and this morning, I could tell my battery was nearly completely drained. Also, I know the unit is receiving constant power because it never "boots up" even after leaving the car turned off for a while. Usually, it should completely shut off after the car is off for ~30 minutes.
I guess I need to update my CAN module. What is an updated CAN that will work, and where this is located on my 2006 Passat?
View 1 Replies
My 2005 kia sorento has a battery drain somewhere, AAA checked alt and battery and said it is fine. I heard there could be a spring stuck in the starter?
View 5 Replies
I own a 2003 BMW 5301 with the sports ,premium and 'M' package. Of late the battery drains for no apparent reason. This happened a few times 2 months ago and I had the battery and alternator replaced. This has again started happening. The car starts promptly in the morning but refuses to start in the evening when I am ready to leave work. It has to be jump started. This does not happen everyday and the BMW service folks have not been able to figure this out.
View 2 Replies
I have a 96 grand am that will turn on fine at first but after it warms up, it will not start and just keeps trying to turn over. I've also tested the battery with a light test and there is a constant drain on the battery, it will be completely dead overnight and when I charge my battery after starting it once, it will fully charge in about 30 minutes from red so I'm wondering if it's just not holding a charge. I'm not sure if it won't start when it's warm or if the battery just doesn't have a charge??? I took the car to autozone and the alternator passed all tests and the battery is new, the starter is 8 months old. Also the brake light stays on.
View 11 Replies
I have a parasitic drain on my battery. 4.5 amps to be exact. I've tracked it down to the CTSY fuse or Fuse 3 in the fuse block. When I pull the fuse it drops to 40 mA which is pretty normal.
What is the most likely cause of this drain since my lights seems to be working and shut off when the doors are shut? I've almost got the dash ripped apart to get at the wiring harness but hopefully I can find it before taking the whole dash out.
View 6 Replies
Just wondering if leaving the USB plugged in with the car is off drains the battery at all? Should I unplug it when I shut the car off or is it ok to just leave it plugged in?
View 4 Replies
I started having a problem last week when my 2007 Prius was setting for two days while I was using my pickup truck. Found the 12 volt battery dead so I disconnected it and tested it with a battery load tester. And it showed it was bad. Well Ok, that figures, since it was an OEM battery and ~6-7 years old.
I have another 2007 Prius here for body repairs so I took the aftermarket (newer) battery out of it and topped the charge off in it. The battery load test indicated it was still a serviceable battery.
Put it in the car and cleared the red triangle, etc.. Everything was fine.
Since I was still going to be short one battery, I contacted Battery Systems, my shops battery dealer and ask them to drop off a new Yellow Top Optima that fits the Prius (FYI my shop price is $159.96). I would be a couple days til their deliver truck would be here and again I left the car sit for a couple days and drove my truck. On the day of the delivery, I had an appointment and drove the Prius, about 15 miles. No problem. Left it at in a street parking space for about 2 hours. Came out and all systems were dead. Nothing. Dome light was the only indication that the battery was so low that it was very dim. Head light were off and I hadn't used them while driving.
I called for road service and got a jump start and the systems came up and I was able to clear the Read Triangle when I got home by turning the car off and back on again.
The new Yellow Top Optima arrived shortly there after and I installed it. Drove the car for 6 days and this morning everything was fine when I drove to church and left it, head lites off (never had used them), came out 2 hours later and when I started the car, I got the Red Triangle and Ready but continued home. I turn it off and on again but this time I got no Ready but the Triangle and the whole sting of check light. Could only get it from park into neutral. Nothing else. Wouldn't clear.
Using my Torque Pro program, tried to read the ECU and it indicate no codes stored, Several tries, no codes or history. Called friend who has reader that will read the CAN Bus and he managed to find an odd P0503 code having to do with a speed sensor. Cleared that and the Triangle went out.
In the end I went and checked the voltage of the new battery and it was only 12.01 volts. I put the load tester on it and the condition is fine. Just the charge voltage is low.
View 19 Replies
I’ve been having an engine misfire issue for a number of months. The dealership first changed the plugs, ignition cable kit and wiring, and that fixed it for a while. Then it came back and dealership couldn’t figure it out. They tested the O2 sensor and drove it around for a week to no avail. So I kept driving and have noticed a few trends. First the car drives better in overdrive, or when the rpms are 3,000 or above. Second when the car stalls, if I am trying to restart it immediately I have to give it some gas. Third it doesn’t mind idling in park. And fourth I’ve been having a battery drain. To solve the battery drain I’ve been charging the battery every night, and that definitely works, but I only get about 20 miles before the misfire comes back, and sometimes the misfire is just there immediately regardless. So I just replaced my alternator, and that didn’t solve the issue either. So what else could be the issue? I'm kinda at a loss and driving the car on the highway when the misfire starts is not exactly safe.
View 3 Replies
