Lexus LS 2007+ :: Mild Treble / Shake And Rotating Fan Sound While In Park
Apr 12, 2012
Two weeks ago I pick up our 08 460 SWB , with 24,300 miles on the car ...
I noticed today while in park standing and waiting for my wife to come out the nail Solon ..the car had this very mild tremble / shake ...and sounded like a belt under the hood was loose .. Something like a rotating fan sound loud but not that loud to make a big stink out of... When I drove off and came to a stop sign I pressed the breaks and RPM's went from 1,100 to 1,300 and back down when the car was at full stop??
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I have encountered a strange noise from my car. The sound is similar to a metal rotating sound. It may be coming from the front right wheel.
I cannot hear it on the freeway. I would say that I can hear it quite frequently at slower speeds. Sometimes It would go away momentarily.
I tried turning the wheel left to right to see if that had an effect at slower/higher speeds, doesn't seem related, could be wrong. Currently I am thinking it could be my wheel bearing...
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According to the manual the driver's side tires get rotated with each other so the two tires always stay on that side. The passenger tires get rotated with the spare tire. So those 3 get rotated with each other. I fail to see the benefit of this other than making the tires on the passenger side last longer.
But I would always replace all the tires at the same time so don't see any benefit. When the driver's side needs tires I would replace the passenger side also. And the drawback is I will need to buy 5 tires instead of 4 when it is time to replace them. I am thinking don't allow the spare to be in the rotation tire service.
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I installed a set of Brake Performance rotors ( slotted ) with premium ceramic pads and have had a bit of strange stuff going on from day one. When I first got them installed there would be a mild grinding or rough feeling when stopping. It got better over the first couple of day but was still there. I also notice a loud whirling or humming noise when I stop from high speeds. I called brake performance and they saids that it may be that the ceramic pad is to hard for the system. It sounded a little odd. The weather in AZ finally hit 77 yesterday so I have been driving with the windows down and have been noticing more of the grinding sound even when the brakes are not pressed.
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I have ES 350 with 118000 miles. And for the last 6 months I've noticed my car become louder and louder. And now it's beginning to shake and vibrate a little. The Check engine light and check VSC light came on then it went off. I can also tell it doesn't have the same pick up when I hit the gas. So is it time to for new plugs and coils?
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I recently got a 2013 Hyundai Accent and am wondering about what a 'normal' running engine sounds like. (it sounds way different than my '98' Elantra) It drives smooth but if I drive slow , it almost sounds like an up-down or rotating engine sound (up and down swell?) Also, when it's idling it sounds like the computer is always adjusting it?? Or something like that. Just want to make sure mine in fine. (84,000km on it.)
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Just seeing if I can get some insight as to whether this is normal or not since my MKV R didn't have anything like this.
1. At Idle Ill have a ticking sound that speeds up and slows down on its own. It seems to be coming form the pulleys side of the engine and it doesn't matter whether the car is warmed up or cold. My engine temps have been pretty steady even with 100+ degree weather and traffic and visually cant see any issues i.e., leaks, cracked lines etc.
2. In first gear Ill get a rotating squealing sound when i let off the gas. The RPM's don't really matter and its definitely is more noticeable before the engine is warming up but it'll still do it at fully warmed up every once in a while. Oh yeah and it ONLY makes this sound in 1st.
As far as I know the pulleys and the majority of the car is stock.
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So I changed my fuel filter a while back and I've been noticing a very mild knocking sound whenever I go over a bump. I didn't have access to a lift when I was doing this, so I attempted it with the car on the ground (worst idea ever - there wasn't enough ground clearance for me to even fit my head under there...). Everything is hooked back up as I thought it was originally (car runs fine), but now that I think about it I'm wondering if there's a bracket above the filter that should be secured within the hose clamp, along with the filter & the plastic piece that attaches to the filter. And if so, any tricks as to how I can secure the hose clamp to the bracket without having to remove the filter all over again? I had no way of telling whether or not there was a bracket... I could hardly see as it was and was more concerned about not damaging the fuel line clips.
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I have an 03 Exp 4x4 Limited with 4.6L V8 with 167K on the clock. I'm getting a kind of humming rotating sound out of the front end when moving. The frequency definitely goes with the wheel rotation speed and the noise is the same with the trans engaged and when coasting in neutral. The noise is present at all speeds but becomes more of a humming sound as the speed increases at highway speed.
I've had both front wheel bearing hubs replaced (they were completely shot), brake pads and rotors replaced, and just had new tires. The rotating sound is still there though. What else is there that could be the cause? Is there another set of bearings somewhere in the front end?
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Is there any way to disable rear park sensor? I don't like the sound, but I want to disable it, also allowing to enable it again if needed....
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I understand the methods for rotating tires but I'm about to deviate from the norm and only switch two of my tires with one another. Just bought an 08' gx and using my tire tread gauge all tires are wearing evenly across their tread. My front tires are at 7/32(+) and 6/32(+), my rear tires are at 7/32 and 7/32(-).
I'm planning to only rotate my 6/32(+) front tire with my 7/32(-) tire and check again in a few thousand miles. Is rotating based on tread depth smart or is there a reason that the standard rotational patterns are all I can find on google? (+) and (-) indicate slight variations off of a reading, the gauge is not accurate beyond 32nds of an inch.
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Noticed an intermittent creaking noise when the vehicle is in motion (low to moderate speed). The noise is not very loud but audible if you turn down the radio volume. It sounds like 2 hard objects rubbing against each other. I am positive it comes from the panoramic moonroof because it only happens if the moonroof is close. The noise goes away instantly if I open the moonroof ever so slightly. It has been intermittent and seems to happen at any temperature.
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I have a 2007 3.3 with 42K miles on it and the AC just started passing air that's not quite as cold as it used to be. When its at idle I would say its a mild cold and then when driving its the same mild cold but with more force. Understandably today is really the first hot, humid day of many to come so I was wondering is there any good indication that its just low freon with a leak or the compressor is going or is there any adjustment to the belt in case its just slipping? I did it drive it for quite awhile and it never improved. I would hate to drive it more and ask for a bigger problem.
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My car shakes pretty good when shutting off the car plus when stopped when in park or neutral. Bought this car used with 3k, so I am not original owner. I believe (without looking) that I own #3887.
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I have a 2008 elantra. It has 71600 miles on it. New brakes, & tires. 2 tires were changed year and 2 more the previous year. I have been hearing a constant sound and starting to feel a mild vibration on the pedal. First I went to a mechanic and he said I need to change the belts. Got that done, no respite. Next went to another, he said i probably need to get the wheel alignment done as the tires seem 'cupped' on the inside.
Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!
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2007 LS460. On a couple of occasions recently, my transmission would not come out of park. I shut the engine down and restarted and it worked fine. Is this a sign of bad things to come?
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris about 12,000 miles ago in March of this year. Automatic transmission, it now has around 72,500 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a "clunking" sound/feeling when I shift from park to drive while on an incline. It doesn't matter if I am going from park to reverse, or visa versa. It is more of a feeling... like something is broken and shifting forward or backwards more quickly/violently that it should, but I can hear it slightly. There is no such sound/sensation on level ground.
Temperature/weather is not a factor. Is this a symptom of a bad motor mount/tranny mount? I had a bad motor mount on a previous car, and experienced a rattling noise while idling. There is no such noise or vibration with this car. I do not have a stable mechanic yet and would like an opinion before I try and establish a relationship with one (considering I am a small 25 year old woman who looks 17-18 years old, and I am not normally taken seriously).
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Passenger side mirror is not rotating while car is in reverse no matter what position I have the mirror selection control. Am I missing something in a set up option? Seems like it did a week ago?
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My 98 Cirrus (V6 automatic) is not starting. The battery is working fine and it lights up everything...the wipers, headlight, the turn signals etc.... But when I turn on the ignition...nothing. I hear a mild thud followed by a brief hissing sound when I turn the key from the 1 position to the 2 position (referring to a 0-1-2-ignition key positions)...like "thuh...sssssss." It seems it comes from the underside of the car. Then when I turn from the second key position to start the engine, I get no response at all. I tried putting the gear in park / N...but no difference.
The weird thing is, approx 15 min before I attempted to start the car, I had to drive the car across the parking lot. It ran fine at that time. Could it be a fried starter motor?
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I see where I can shut it off on navigation screen, but buzzing sound still goes off and picture lights up on speedometer on dash.
Since snow started falling this week when I drive the park assist just randomly goes off its annoying having buzzing sound just go off not shut off.
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I have a 2008 es350 with 106k miles and I've been trying to fix vibration issue for a few months now. The car vibrates while in park with and without the AC power on, but its worse with the AC on. The vibration was felt in the sterring wheel and wasnt that bad just enough to be annoying. So I researched and did a few thing such as spark plugs change, mass air flow cleaning, new air filter, a few bottles of fuel injection cleaner but nothing improved the vibrations. In fact I think it got worse. So after looking online I ran across a post about vibrations and motor mounts. This is the post I found. [URL] ....
"Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all mounts being careful not to rock the motor, and don't pry or push anything to reach the bolts! (This is where swivels co*me in handy)"
I went ahead and did it on my es and wife's 2010 rx350. It took about 30-40 minutes but I took several breaks. Here are a few pic these are from the RX but the process is almost the same ones.
Top of engine bay on the passanger side this mount is easy youll need a 14 mm wrench. I noticed the bolts here where very tight when i loosened them but when re tightened the bolts it when in very easily.
This the drivers side you'll need a 19 mm wrench. Just turn the wheel all the way to the right to get access.
This one is right behind the radiator in the front middle of the engine. Its a17 mm
This is on the passenger side behind the wheel. It just like the one on the drivers side. Its a 19mm
This one I believe is only on the rx but I didn't look on the es. I could not get to the through bolt so i just loosen the two 17mm bolts.
Once all of the bolts were lose I turned on the car and moved/drove it 2-4 feet in drive several time in the drive way. Then I stepped on the brake pedal hard while in drive and gave some gas nothing crazy maybe up to 3k rpm and for second or 2. I did the same in reverse. After that I put it in drive and felt for vibrations if I still felt something i would repeat until the vibrations stopped. Once they stopped I didn't put the car in park, I turn off the car while in drive and engaged the emergency brake. At this point i re-torqued all the bolts without move anything. Now both the RX and ES and very smooth while stopped while in drive. This a free fix and it worked great.
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