Lexus LS 2007+ :: Low Idle While Stopped At A Light Will Sometimes Drop To 500 RPM
Dec 28, 2010
I have been noticing that the idle in my car while stopped at a light will sometimes drop to 500 rpm. This makes the car feel shaky at idle. As soon as I put it into neutral or reverse the rpm jump to 750 rpm. Intermittent issue, what this could be??? Its probably happened 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks. Its annoying.
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So I was driving to work this morning and when I'm stopped at a red light my car idled from 800 rpm all the way down to 400 rpm. It literally felt like the car was going to shut off on me.
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I have a 2007 gs 350 awd with about 98k miles. I recently started noticing this strange vibration whenever i stop at a red light. I would describe the vibration as a shiver of some type where the RPM kinda drops. After the vibration, I started noticing my car using a lot of force on the freeway and giving me very low mileage. I did some research and changed the motor mounts, and cleaned the throttle. This slightly fixed the vibration but cleaning the throttle fixed the low mileage/using extra force when driving at high speeds. but the vibration still seems to be a problem. Also, does the exhaust possibly have any role in the vibrations?
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My 07 LS460L has a pulsating idle. Approximately 2-300 rpm from 1200 rpm. It has, while in Drive dropped to 4-500 rpm then will recover. Also it has dropped so low that I thought it was going to stall but then it jumped to 1500 rpm fluctuated then recovered. I had it in at Sewell 2 weeks ago and they couldn't find the reason until a week later they said the throttle body was dirty. The tech cleaned it and I still have the same issue. No performance issues just idle? I have two LS430' 01&06 and neither one of them have this issue. The fuel rails were replaced under recall.
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I have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?
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My friend just bought a 2008 F150 5.4 110k, it ran great all day during all of the test drives, after he gets it home it has started acting up. Most of the time it runs great, but sometimes when you stop the truck the idle will drop down and the truck sounds like it is going to die but so far it hasn't actually died, it starts knocking really badly and runs very rough. If you let it keep running like that it sets P0340. If you rev the truck up it cleans up and sounds fine again and it will even drop back down to a clean idle most of the time. I swapped the cam sensors because it was easy and just to see and it didn't make a difference, I was hoping after switching the sensors the code would switch to the other head but it didn't.
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Just bought a L/Certified pre-owned 2013 ES 350. I am shocked at how much the car vibrates and noise increases when stopped at a light or stop sign. I tried a 2015 ES 350 and the same thing occurs!! The dealership technician says everything is operating "to specification". This is a disgrace for such a high-tech, luxury car.
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My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?
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So for the past several months i have noticed something going on. There is a little noise almost like a groaning
- When i am at a Stop light and idle but still in Drive.
- When i shift to N or P it stops and goes away.
Sometimes during this i will notice a little rattle or i feel a little vibration but not much and very hard to even notice if it hadn't been for how sensitive i am never would have even noticed this at all. What this could be ?
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So recently my water pump failed so i did the pump, timing belt, and thermostat. While putting the alternator back in a may have broken a few fins on the alt. case. Anyways I was ripping it a bit today only a day after stuff done and the battery light came on. The car is warmed up and the idle drop a few hundred rpm and then back up. The headlights dim as well. and come back up with rpm. Even when I hod the pedal steady at 2k rpm itll still dip and come back up...thinking its an alt but is that really a symptom of a bad alt? I was also thinking I didn't tighten the alt bolt down alt the way or fuses or something so checking that but I am almost positive it's all tight down.
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I have a 2007 RX350, now at 110K miles, bought at 80K miles. I recently notice a sudden drop in mpg about 5K miles back (it might happen before that but I did not notice). Previously, the car gets around 25MPG on average, now it can only get 21 - 21.5 mpg, my range of a full tank drops around 60 miles. My route of driving everyday is pretty much the same. I have tried to change gas branch, using fuel system cleaner (Chevron Techron), check tire pressure but no luck.
What might be happening with the car that makes this significant drop in mpg?
I changed power steering rack and pinion at a dealer also about 5k miles back and at that point I had a dispute with a service consultant there. He made me drive back and forth a couple times without telling me that the part hadn't arrived yet (the car was on extended warranty). I then emailed directly to his boss. After that he treated me really well: gave me a most recent model loaner car for a week and did not charge for gas, and waived the deductible. Now I notice the MPG drop so I kind of link with this event and put him in doubt . Well, I'm not sure if he could do anything to the car since he's not the technician but still ... Can a guy put something to a car to reduce its fuel efficiency?
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I have recently bought a 2007 ES350 that's runs fantastic considering I bought it with high miles from the Lexus dealer (149k). I live in warm climate area and I notice that even though it's not cold out in the mornings my car idles high (at about 2k) for only a few minutes 2-4 tops then starts to drop to normal as it warms up. It hurts me to hear it as I'm not use to this and I worry that it may cause damage to my engine due to oil not being circulated properly yet.
Most importantly, ONLY when cold, I hear a very light knocking sound, kinda like a bad lifter tick, but by the time I get to my daughters school which is about 5-6 miles away it goes away and sounds normal at that point. Had me very concerned as I just bought it less than a few weeks ago and I'm afraid something was wrong and dealer may been able to mask it at my point of purchase and now its starting to rear its ugly head.
This is my first Lexus ES350, not really sure if it's normal or not. I can tell you, when it warms up, I've jumped out of my car and have put me ear to the good and can't hear the tick. Should I be concerned? Is high idle with tick normal if it goes away when it warms up or is it a fair warning something is bad or about to go bad?
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1997 lexus ls400 204500 miles, engine light is on code P0340 (cam shaft position sensor bank 1), rough idle at start, once the car warms up it runs ok but loss of power, hesitates, if press more on gas pedal the car jerks. I have replaced both cam shaft position sensors and engine coolant temp sensor but no improvement. What could be the problem?
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1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
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For a few months now I've been having strange electric issues with my 2009 Santa Fe GL.
At first, we had the cruise light randomly come on (not actually engaging cruise, just indicating the system is on), the ESC light would be on, and the tachometer would drop to 0 while driving, although the engine was clearly running. We had the cruise control switch replaced and that appeared to have fixed the ESC and tachometer issue.
Unfortunately, the cruise light would still come on so the brake switch was replaced a few weeks back - that did not fix the cruise light issue. Now, over the weekend two very disturbing things started happening:
1) Cruise will now randomly turn off when engaged
2) The car thinks it's in manual transmission mode, even when it's not. When in drive (D), the car will no longer switch out of first gear. In order to switch gears, I must switch to manual drive mode and change gears by using (+).
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 150,000 miles that is meticulously maintained. This past winter (as far as winter goes in San Diego) the engine would run rough and the rpm's would drop close to stalling when stopping at a light for the first 2 or 3 miles. After that the engine has warmed and there is no problem. Could this be the intake gaskets needing replacement. This only happens on a cool or damp, rainly morning.
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2000 Ford ZX2 2.0 ....I've got approx. 79,350 miles on this car. I'm the original owner. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I took the the car to an Advanced Auto Parts store, they hooked up their handheld computer to the car and told me "it might be an oxygen sensor or poor fuel octane", he suggested adding an octane booster and see if the light stays off. I did that,but two days later it came back on, the idle seems a little ruff when stopped at a light.
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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When stopped at a stop light or sign my car will start to idle at around 1000rpm. This problem is intermittent and does not seem to change with water temperature (ie. being warmed up).
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I had a strange issue today when I left work and started my car. I got in, put my foot on the brake and pushed the ignition button like normal. The lights all came on for a moment and then everything just went out. The brake felt stuck and no electronics would work and the engine did not start. I couldn't get anything to work, I thought my battery was dead, however when I got out of the car (key in my pocket as usual) the car came back to life. I got in and started and it worked fine.
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I'm at 55k and over the past 2k-3k miles I have noticed my idle getting rougher and rougher when stopped at a light. I took it to my garage and they cleaned the fuel injection system/throttle body/MAF sensor. When I got the car beck it felt a little better but the idle is still pretty rough.
Compared to my wife's '09 Sienna, it is a lot more noticeable that the car is on. I'm in Florida so the AC is on. When I put the car in neutral, the idle become smooth.
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