Lexus LS 2007+ :: Less Brake Consistency - Can't Get Constant Pressure On The Pedal
Nov 26, 2013
Replaced my rotors and pads and I still do not like the braking feel as I apply constant pressure to the pedal. No matter what I do, I cannot apply even or consistent pressure to pedal and get the car to slow down smoothly or in a linear way. It feels like some power assist component applies varying force to the calipers no mater how slowly or quickly I try to slow the car down. It just isn't smooth like other cars I own. The brake pads grab fine, no warped rotor issues. Does your car brake smoothly from 40 MPH to 0? Is there some power assist unit that may be going out?
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MY 2005 chevy silverado 2500 developed brake problems. The power steering pump, master cylinder, and Hydro static something or other has bee replaced.Now the pedal fades with constant pressure. The shop tells me this is ok but today at at a downward sloping boat ramp with the pedal at the floor, it was very scary.Before the parts were replaced this problem did not exist.
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The brakes surge with more power when the brake pedal is held at a constant pressure. My guess it has to do with the brake booster. But normally a failing booster would result in less braking ability not more.
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I had a realization the other day, based on a Porsche 944, that the "set screw" holding brake rotors are more for the assembly process but are not actually what accounts for the fastening of the rotor on the hub. instead, the 130 Nm torque on the five wheel nuts that sandwich the rotor between the hub and wheel do this. If the torque on the nuts is uneven, but the assembly is otherwise secure, wouldn't one prediction of this be uneven brake rotor wear?
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I started my 05 prius this morning, and it starts up and is running in normal time. But there's a constant long beep tone that doesn't shut off and after it starts it shoves the break pedal back out while my foot is still trying to keep it depressed. There's a brake light that is on after, but no error icon on the display. I didn't try driving it to see if it lets me, because of something possibly wrong with the brakes. What might cause this?
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Requiring that the brake pedal be depressed in order to start the engine can be a nuisance, say if the driver is out of the vehicle and the passenger wants to start the engine to run the A/C, etc.
There is a workaround though. Press the engine start switch once to go into ACC mode, then press and hold it for 15 seconds and the engine will start without the brake pedal having to be pressed.
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I have searched and heard a lot about the brake actuator problems... but the noise I get is not a clicking noise.
My brakes have a noise when i press the brake all the way down and release it quickly... but its much more of a quick "scrubbing" noise... .almost a "creaking"... is this the brake actuator? or something else? I just recently got new pads and rotors at NTB... and the sound seems to have come after the install. i took it back in and they said they had no clue. Also , they did bleed the brakes when they installed new pads and rotors...
The noise really only happens when the car is in gear lunging. In park it happens one in 10 times as opposed to every time in gear.
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I got the attached warning today on my 2010 LS600. The pedal felt a little soft after the warning. It kept popping off and on, dinging every 30-40 seconds.
I checked the brake fluid, it was full. Car has 36k
I had it towed in to Lexus and they couldn't get the warning to come back up.
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Perhaps a strange question, but is there any way the pedal height can be decreased. On my 2010 LS 460 it seems to be higher than on my previous 2005 LS 430 to the extent that I lift my foot off the accelerator pedal and miss the top of the brake pedal. It's happened often enough that I've been wondering if it could be reduced an inch or so.
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Team 4th Gen. Just a heads up. When I first bought my 600, the radar cruise was throwing an error due to a faulty brake light switch near the brake pedal. It was repaired but it appears the adjustment on that switch may not have been done.
I noticed cars rushing up on me as I was slowing down and turning many times, even causing a car to swerve hard to avoid hitting me.
I realized my brake pedal needed to be about 3/4 pressed to engage the brake lights. I also noticed I had to really mash the brake to disengage the cruise control. I then noticed when someone drove my car and came to a light. No brake lights even though they were def slowing down and not coasting.
So i had my oil changed today and had them investigate while it was there. There is an adjustment to that switch component and now the lights come on with hardly any pressure on the pedal and cruise disengages with very slight pressure on pedal as it should.
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Looking for a fix for the annoying squeaking noise often happening when depressing the brake pedal?
Dealer "bled" the brake actuator...did not work, said I need new actuators for 2.5k.... 2007 LS 460L ....
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My wife called and said her ES350 couldn't start. I told her to wait 5 minutes and tried again. It still wouldn't start.
So I went there and tried to start the car. My first try did not work either. I noticed that the brake pedal couldn't be pressed down. It was quite stiff. So I pressed hard on the brake pedal and tried again. This time it started. It has been working fine since then.
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I just got a used low-milage 2013 LS460, and noticed that every time I tap the break pedal I hear a "clicking" sound coming from under the dash or hood. This seems to happen every time I touch or press on the brakes, at seemingly any speed. It sounds almost like an actuator of some kind... perhaps like the type which allows the transmission to shift out of park. Is this normal, or an indication of a an issue?
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I have a 2008 LS460. I have a clicking noise coming from the brake pedal area. It happens in the morning when the brakes are cold. I had the same problem when the car was new, and Lexus put in a new actuator. It was ok for about 6 months, and started clicking again. Maybe 3 or 4 soft clicks when I push lightly on the brake pedal. Every time I take it in to Lexus, they say it has the new actuator, and the noise is so soft that they act like they can't hear it. The car is so quiet otherwise, that to me the clicking is very annoying. I have called Lexus corporate, to no avail. Sounds to me that they have a problem they don't want to admit.
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Have an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 replaced calipers, master cylinder, and ABS Pump/Modulator. Bled all four calipers. Brake pedal spongy and has very little pressure and travels all the way to the floor. What am I missing here?
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My old 1997 Dodge Caravan (150k miles) has weak brakes. During normal driving, it needs more pressure on the pedal to brake normally, than any other car that I have driven. This would be ok as I can push hard on the pedal... But the problem is that, past some point, I get no additional braking power no matter how hard I push.
So in case of an emergency, I cannot come anywhere close to lock the wheels (and this car does not have ABS). So basically, the braking power is proportional to how hard I push, up to a point where the braking power remains the same no matter how hard I push. At that point the pedal is maybe 1/3 down, still very far from the floor.
I have just replaced the front pads and rotor with no improvement. And when the engine is not running, the pedal gets really hard after I depress the brakes 3 times, indicating that the booster is doing something. The car will stay in the driveway for now as this is a dangerous situation.
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I have only 42k km or 26 k miles. Brake stops but soft. The brake pedal sink if you apply pressure after a stop. Feels like someone open a valve. The pedal go to very low. I am find the stopping power is poor. Brake fluid is brownish. I hope it is not the master cylinder.
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My mom's Jetta has had a squishy brake pedal ever since we got it a couple years ago. I figured it went down so far because the brake pads were wearing thin.
After having just replaced the pads and rotors, I flushed the fluid with the Motive power bleeder. I cycled the ABS pump with VCDS, then hooked the power bleeder back up and opened all four corners again until fluid was flowing clean and bubble-free.
Everything went well with the change, but the brake pedal never got as firm as I expected it to. Before the change, the pedal felt like it would get dangerously close to the floor. The brakes always worked, but the pedal hit about 60-70 percent of its travel before the car started slowing down. After the change, it has improved slightly, but it feels like its going about half-way before the brakes start working.
The pedal doesn't drop when you hold pressure on it like I figured it would if the master cylinder was leaking. Is this normal for a mk4 or does it sound like there's something wrong?
Car is a late 2001 2.0 Jetta Automatic with the MK60 ABS pump.
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I am working on a e-150 van, 2005. the brake pedal fades to almost the floor with little pressure on it. I just replaced the master cylinder, bled the entire system, and it STILL fades to the floor. driving, or in park. engine running. 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel abs...
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So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
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